External flashes

OK-here are my tries on POTC in Disneyland.

Canon Rebel XT/Canon 50mm
Shutter Priority
All pics:
SS 1/125
f/1.8
ISO 1600

IMG_7352.jpg


IMG_7353.jpg


IMG_7354.jpg


IMG_7366.jpg


Kelliann
 
I have a Canon XTi. I also have a Speedlite 420ex. I use the Speedlite any time I need a flash because the recycle time on the camera's pop-up flash is so poor.

Well, lately it seems to me that my recycle time on the Speedlite seems very long too (even with brand new batteries in the flash and a freshly recharged battery in the camera).

I first noticed this while at the Christmas parade at Disney in December. I was on 1600 ISO and using the flash. I had to be careful about what shots I took because I knew I wouldn't get 2 shots in a row without time to recycle.

Are there certain camera settings that just will require more recycle time for the flash?

Is it possible there is something wrong with my Speedlite?
 
There may be something wrong with the flash but it may be ok too. Most flashes shut off power to the xenon tube when enough light has been received by the camera or the flash sensor. The remaining charge is still stored and recharging only takes a short time, sometimes a fraction of a second. If the full charge is dumped (when a lot of light is needed such as a long distance to the subject) recycle time is much longer.

Try flashing a white surface only a few feet away (in auto mode), recycle time should be very short. If your recent use was for distant subjects that could be responsible for long cycle times. If I am telling you something you already know I apologize for restating the obvious.

The battery type makes a difference too, NiMH or disposable lithium cells will probably give a shorter cycling time than alkaline batteries. Try some fresh NiMH batteries to see if things work better.
If both of these tests still result in long cycle times it may be time to write to Canon Service.
 
I agree with Bob. The power of a flash varies enormously depending on the circumstances. Something light and nearby needs much less power than something dark and far away. If you are driving your flash hard, it will take longer to cycle than when you are just asking for a little extra light. Experiment and see if your flash is always slow or if you were just asking a lot.

I'll also add that regular alkaline batteries start off good, but they very quickly drain to where recharge times are long. If I'm in a situation where I need a lot of quick flash shots, I'll sometimes bring many sets of batteries and use them for a short while each.
 

There may be something wrong with the flash but it may be ok too. Most flashes shut off power to the xenon tube when enough light has been received by the camera or the flash sensor. The remaining charge is still stored and recharging only takes a short time, sometimes a fraction of a second. If the full charge is dumped (when a lot of light is needed such as a long distance to the subject) recycle time is much longer.

Try flashing a white surface only a few feet away (in auto mode), recycle time should be very short. If your recent use was for distant subjects that could be responsible for long cycle times. If I am telling you something you already know I apologize for restating the obvious.

The battery type makes a difference too, NiMH or disposable lithium cells will probably give a shorter cycling time than alkaline batteries. Try some fresh NiMH batteries to see if things work better.
If both of these tests still result in long cycle times it may be time to write to Canon Service.

Well, first thank you for responding. I take lots of pictures, but really know just enough about photography to be dangerous....

The first time I noticed was at the Disney Christmas parade which was at night, so I imagine the demands WERE quite high. The other time has been at my son's basketball games, indoors in a fairly dimly lit gymnasium.

Perhaps I should try the other type of batteries. I have been using basic duracell AA's. I guess I didn't know I could try something different. Are you talking about certain types of rechargeable AA's I might find locally? Or would I need to order them.

I'm hesitant to try just buying something generic on Ebay, as I have found the camera batteries I buy there don't last long.
 
So what would your strategy be for photographing night time parades (not Spectro... That needs no flash). We'll be attending MNSSHP and am guessing I'll have the same problem I had with MVMCP. It is probably going to test my flash again since it's so dark out.Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
 
So what would your strategy be for photographing night time parades (not Spectro... That needs no flash). We'll be attending MNSSHP and am guessing I'll have the same problem I had with MVMCP. It is probably going to test my flash again since it's so dark out.Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

IMO, using a flash for the night parades kills the look of the parade. Instead of using the flash, get yourself the Canon 50mm f/1.8 lens. It can be had for under $100 online. Combine that with your high ISO and use this lens at f/1.8 you'll get good enough shutter speeds to stop the action and capture all the great colors.

Here is a shot I took during our '05 visit to MVMCP. This was using a flash (Nikon N70 film SLR):
592140-R1-22-3.jpg


This one I took in '07 using the Sigma 30mm f/1.4 lens with NO flash (Nikon D50 dSLR):
316546338_3BjZ3-L.jpg


In the 2nd picture I also had additional help. There is a nice light coming off the facade of the Diamond Horseshoe in Frontierland. However what you can see more of is the background, in the 1st shot the background is gone. Also the tree. The flash washed out a lot of the stuff on the tree. The flash also flattened the colors. They look more dull. Not as good of a look IMO.

The 50mm f/1.8 lens will have a tighter field of view, but there isn't to much difference between f/1.4 and f/1.8.
 
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IMO, using a flash for the night parades kills the look of the parade. Instead of using the flash, get yourself the Canon 50mm f/1.8 lens. It can be had for under $100 online. Combine that with your high ISO and use this lens at f/1.8 you'll get good enough shutter speeds to stop the action and capture all the great colors.

Here is a shot I took during our '05 visit to MVMCP. This was using a flash (Nikon N70 film SLR):
592140-R1-22-3.jpg


This one I took in '07 using the Sigma 30mm f/1.4 lens with NO flash (Nikon D50 dSLR):
316546338_3BjZ3-L.jpg


In the 2nd picture I also had additional help. There is a nice light coming off the facade of the Diamond Horseshoe in Frontierland. However what you can see more of is the background, in the 1st shot the background is gone. Also the tree. The flash washed out a lot of the stuff on the tree. The flash also flattened the colors. They look more dull. Not as good of a look IMO.

The 50mm f/1.8 lens will have a tighter field of view, but there isn't to much difference between f/1.4 and f/1.8.

Hmmmmm.... now you have me thinking. That seems to make sense. but my hands are slightly unsteady. Do you think I'd be able to get clear shots in the low light???? I guess I did get some decent shots of Spectro last year with no flash.....

I've been using my Tamron DiII 18-250. Would that other lens give me noticeably different result?

Please don't feel like you will be talking down to me. I'm not an expert by any means.......
 
IMO, using a flash for the night parades kills the look of the parade. ...
592140-R1-22-3.jpg

Wow...even Mickey is trying to protect his eyes from the flash.

I agree with Kyle that you are better off using natural light rather than flash for a parade. If you are in a situation where you need flash and you need good recycle times, you can also get something like the Quantum Turbo SC battery pack. They aren't cheap, but they hold more juice and cut recycle times. It's the sort of thing you'd want if you do a lot of indoor location shoots like weddings.
 
For fastest flash cycling with normal batteries the Eneloop or Imedion types are probably your best bet.

A 18-200 has a pretty small aperture by the time it is zoomed a bit, a 50 f/1.8 will give *dramatically* better results in low light. A monopod can help hold the camera steady at slow shutter speeds, often down to about 1/8 second.

Another option is to use the "night flash" mode for some fill flash but reduce flash exposure by about 2 stops. 2nd curtain flash usually works best with this. If you are a beginner it is best to try this a few times first before using it for important photos.
 
So would the 50 f1.8 also be your choice for fireworks? Of course, I would be using a tripod for the fireworks, but not the parade.....
 
So would the 50 f1.8 also be your choice for fireworks? Of course, I would be using a tripod for the fireworks, but not the parade.....

You can use any lens for fireworks...provided that you have a tripod or something stable to rest your camera on.
 
The title pretty much says it all :)

I have a canon rebel xti and would like to buy an external/mountable flash. Nothing very expensive.

any suggestions?
 
how expensive is to expensive? in the $400 ball park i'd say metz 58( dedicated for canon, around $399) or if you want to stick with canon the 580 ex 11 ( think there may be a rebate now so not sure but it's around the same price, smartshooter rates the metz better),
my local camera store swears by promaster flashes( around $200 give or take for their top model at that store, i think they a can be under a hundred) and i have heard some good things about sigma super 500( think the number is right, anyway i think it's the only one with super in the title) which i think it around $300( been a while since i looked at it, i am saving my pennies for the metz) the reason i didn't go with the promaster is it didn't have high speed sync, other than that it looked pretty good for the price.
 
thanks! Hmm.... I honestly haven't even really thought about a ball park price range. I guess $200 or so but if the $200 range is horrible I'd be willing to spend some more.
 
Canon makes 4 regular flashes - the 220EX, 270EX, 430EX II, and the 580 EX II. The 220EX can't be bounced, so I strongly recommend against it.

The 270EX is new and I know little about it. Given it's number designation, it's relatively low powered. It is also probably incapable of being used as a slave.

The main difference between the 580 and 430 is the power and the fact that the former can be used as a master or a slave while the latter only works as a slave.

They also make some flashes for macro work, but they are specialized and probably not what you want.

http://www.usa.canon.com/consumer/controller?act=ProductCatIndexAct&fcategoryid=141


I know that there are third party flashes for the Canon system, but I know little about them.
 
The most expensive flash is not always the best (obviously). What makes a flash the best is if it is the best for you, that is, if it meets your needs.

So to better answer this question, tell us a little bit about what you want to do with it? Just improve the over-all look of your indoor shots? Want to get into portraiture? Want to try off-camera flash? Want to eventually add a 2nd (or 3rd) flash to your lighting equimpment? Are you comfortable using equipment in manual or do you want to stick with E-TTL II?

Just let us know what you want to do and we can help you throw a ton of money into your new hobby!
 
I had resigned myself to thinking I should avoid using flash until I invest in an external unit, since the popup flash on my camera gives such a harsh light. Then I read a book about dslr cameras where the author thought it was a shame that pro cameras don't come with a popup flash, since in the right place at the right time it has its uses and it's convenient. I've had a little success using tissues as a diffuser, but the real problem is I just don't understand how a flash works. Can anyone give me some tips about using a popup flash effectively, show me some examples you have taken, or point me towards a nice article or book even?
 





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