External flashes

Just curious as to whether anyone here has any experience using gels on a flash to balance the light to match other light sources -- say, in an area with incandescent lights you can't turn off ...

Where do you get such things, and how much do they cost?

SSB
 
It's been awhile since I read about this on Strobist, but they have a section on this. Check the Lighting 101 section at the Strobist website.
 
My SB800 came with one for incandescent and one for fluorescent lighting.
I just purchased a Demb flip-it with diffuser and ordered a set of gels for that as well.
The gels are really inexpensive so that shouldn't be an issue.
I know that the Strobist site always recommends Mpex for parts and supplies, so you can always find them there if you don't have anyone local.

Here's a link to the strobist kit there.
http://www.mpex.com/browse.cfm/4,5881.html
 
I have a Canon Powershot A700 and would like to be able to take photos similar in quality to ones like this from Gdad:

361886922_fJp5z-O.jpg


and WDWFigment:

2848699060_efe97b8d50_b.jpg


Any tips on what settings I should use?

On a related note, I haven't been able to figure out how to focus manually on a particular object so that only the object is perfectly focused while the background is out of focus, like in this this other photo from Gdad:

364457647_JAjwg-O.jpg


Tips on that would help too. I have 1 week to master all this, no pressure.
 

I have a Canon Powershot A700 and would like to be able to take photos similar in quality to ones like this from Gdad:
and WDWFigment:
Any tips on what settings I should use?

Unfortunately, your camera is just not quite able to do as well in handheld low light situations as theirs. Though obviously photographers of high talent, and certainly a large part of their beautiful photos has to do with the photographer, it must be said that the tool does still make a difference, especially when dealing with low light.

If you take photos using a tripod, using your lowest ISO and a longer shutter, you can get photos of that quality. But in order to shoot like this handheld, you would need to use a much higher ISO to get a short enough shutter speed to not get camera shake...and at higher ISOs, your camera will get much more grainy and noisy and begin to lose details.

By no means is your camera bad - it's just fine for 90% of the normal photographic situations most people find themselves in...but getting into handheld low light photography would most likely require stepping up to a much larger sensor and much more sensitive lens. Stick with a tripod, level surface, garbage can, etc...and use a slow shutter...and your camera can take beautiful night shots similar to those. Want to take shots like that handheld, start looking into DSLRs and good, low light lenses in the F1.4-2.0 range!

On a related note, I haven't been able to figure out how to focus manually on a particular object so that only the object is perfectly focused while the background is out of focus, like in this this other photo from Gdad:

Again...your camera will limit your control over shots like this. it's not impossible - it will just take alot more work, and likely require some more distance than in the shot example you showed. Shallow depth of field is the factor that makes this effect possible...large sensor DSLR cameras tend to have extremely narrow depth of field with larger apertures - meaning if you focus on a certain point, the out-of-focus area will begin just inches in front of and behind that focus point. Zoom in on a subject with a zoom lens, and that depth of field can become even narrower. When you want to increase the depth of field, you go to a smaller aperture (bigger F-number).

With a P&S camera, the sensor is extremely small, as is the lens, and even at the most wide-open aperture, the depth of field is quite large...you might focus on a certain point, and have several feet in front or in back of the subject still within focus...or even more. It can become quite hard to get something OUT of focus in fact! Your best chance with a P&S camera to get the background out of focus while leaving the foreground subject in focus is to make sure the camera is set to the widest aperture (smallest F-number...such as F2.8)...stand farther back from your intended subject, and use your optical zoom lens to zoom in on it, and try to pick a subject that is farther away from the background. The more distance, the better...if you can stand 20 feet away, zoom in on an object, and have the background be 15-20 feet away, you can get the intended effect...as long as the aperture is fully opened.

P&S cameras with much bigger zooms can do this easier than yours...with all of that zoom to deal with, you can stand 30-50 feet or more from a subject, and use the zoom to make it look like you are standing just a few feet away, which can help to enhance the out-of-focus effect. But with a compact 3x zoom camera, you'll need to try to get as much distance as possible between you and your subject, and your subject and the background.

(BTW - that wide depth of field is an advantage for most consumers with P&S cameras - many people who get into DSLRs without much photographic skill or knowledge can struggle nailing the focus, because of that extremely narrow depth-of-field that they aren't used to - sometimes a DSLR might be focused just an inch or two off the intended area, and cause the subject to be blurry and out of focus...if they don't know how to properly focus, or to reduce the aperture to compensate, they can get very frustrated with their cameras. Though you can't easily achieve the very cool effects with a compact camera that a good photographer can with a DSLR, most people at least can get good focused shots with their P&S cameras even without alot of skill or knowledge of photography).
 
I'm no expert by any means, but let's see if this will help some.
Regarding having the subject in focus and the background "blurred", it has to do with the depth of field you set on your camera. This is done by making changes in the Aperture setting. Generally, the larger the aperture, the smaller the depth of field it will be and the more likely it is that you will get the sharp foreground, blurred background (called bokeh) you're looking for. A shallow depth of field would be something like 4, 2.8 and lower. Also, the farther your subject from the background, the more blur you will get. Set your camera on AE and choose the smallest number you can get away with and still get a reasonable shutter speed.

For night shots, your best bet is to use a high ISO setting (800). That will make it possible for more light to hit the lens. SHoot in manual with a wide open aperture and as slow a shuuter speed as you can possibly manage to give you as much light as possible.

I don't know about the specifics of your camera, but it would also be worth trying the night setting. It is harder getting those shots with a Point and Shoot camera. I'd get a little Gorillapod--they're not too expensive and I think it would help a lot in any case. That would allow you to use a longer shutter speed.

As for GDad's pictures, yeah, we'd all love to be able to get the kind of results he does. He has lots of talent that is put to good use with that sweet new DSLR he has! I suspect WDWFigment's work is done with an SLR as well--you have a good eye for great photos.

Hope this helps.
 
Okay... to get anything close to these type photo you have to start by learning to shoot in manual mode on your camera...

Set the ISO to 400... anything faster than this and I'm betting your picture will show too much noise.

In manual mode select the lowest aperture 2.8 for your camer if your shooting as wide angle as possible...

You will have to manual focus... on a powershot you have to push the button with the flower and MF down...

Turn off the flash... you don't want it

now focus your camera isn't going to have a real shallow depth of field, so your going to have to cheat a little... position yourself where you want to be for the photo so everything is lined up... now walka couple of step forward and focus on what you want in focus... now step back where you were and take the picture... you have a range in which things will be in focus.. if you focus on something and take the picture then that range will extend beyond the statue or whatever.. you want to put the statue at the far side of that range so step up a bit focus and then step back... it will require some trial and error but you'll have to test and see how many steps you can take to get the maximum effect.

shutter speed... in a powershot this will tend to be too long and you'll likely end up with lighter night skies than you want so go manual and just test what speed gives you the look you want.

For the shot of the fan with lots of blur, your best chance is to use the camera in Macro mode though it may blur things too much...
 
/
I agree with all the other posters about the difficulty of night pics with a Canon Powershot. I will just add one other thing - there is another way to get that "narrow depth of field" effect, the PS way. The background blur can be enhanced in Photoshop using masks and layers, such as;

2787446570_003e5f9361_m.jpg


I know, it's cheating, but I thought I would mention it.
 
Two other suggestions:
One - Use something to "anchor" the camera so you can take a longer exposure without cranking the ISO. Lampposts, the ground (can create an intesting perpective), fenchposts etc
Two - I have not used it myself, but consider using the "String tripod", tie a length of string to a big washer on one end, and on the other end, tie to a 1/4/20 screw with a Nut on the end, and screw it into the tripod socket. Step on the big washer and up on the camera. Some directions are here:
http://www.instructables.com/id/String-Tripod/
 
you can get a pocket tripod for 10 bucks. Invest into it.

I was taking shots of the castle one night, and this guy with a little P&S walked up and asked how come my shots were coming out and his weren't.

so I had him put his camera on my tripod and then use the timer to release the shutter, he got a couple of very nice pictures. Low light is 90% about having a stable base from which to shoot your pictures.
 
Wow! Thanks for all the tips! Each of you suggested very valuable information. I'll study this and hopefully I'll get some shots I feel confident in posting here for you guys. If I get in a pinch, zackiedawg, I'll call you to come and take my pictures for me. :P

I may have to bite the bullet next trip and buy a DSLR. I resisted doing that now because I wanted the ease of carrying only a p&s, but my desire for photos of that caliber is eating at me. Maybe I can find a sexy backpack that won't make look to dorky or hire a sherpa to carry my gear in the future.
 
for the blurred background just remember the smaller the #f-stop the wider the aperature! the wider the aperature the less depth of feild you have;)

others might have said this but, I always tell my self photography is about cutting light/time in half (shutter speeds and f-stops) and thinking backwards

smaller# f-stop= f2.8 = wide aperature= small depth of field

larger# f-stop= f64= small aperature= large depth of feild

and with night shots if you were to have a mono pod I will maybe not fully extend it and use a fanny pack of my pocket to anchor myself. It might not be the best but its better than carrying a tripod?!!!
 
Wow! Thanks for all the tips! Each of you suggested very valuable information. I'll study this and hopefully I'll get some shots I feel confident in posting here for you guys. If I get in a pinch, zackiedawg, I'll call you to come and take my pictures for me. :P

I may have to bite the bullet next trip and buy a DSLR. I resisted doing that now because I wanted the ease of carrying only a p&s, but my desire for photos of that caliber is eating at me. Maybe I can find a sexy backpack that won't make look to dorky or hire a sherpa to carry my gear in the future.

Just got back from the park. Got a sexy backpack for my gear but still wanted a sherpa to schlep it around. LOL They don't seem to sell those in the gift shops...not even near Expedition Everest. Darn it.
 
OK...So I have A Kodak Easy Share Z712IS.
Takes BEAUTIFUL outdoor pictures. But having trouble indoors.
Especially when I am not to be using a flash.
My daughter is in a play this week and weekend and I've practiced a few times but the pictures are not the quality I want.

I took a lot of pictures in the scan mode (Manner/Museum) and they are great
as long as no one is moving in the picture. If someone moves then of course it is a blur in the picture. I am not able to change any of the settings in that mode.

So, does anyone have any ideas what I should be setting my camera at to catch motion on stage withou using a flash?
I tried to include a couple pictures in th post but I don't know how...
 
I have a Kodak Z812 the model up, You should have an ISO, that works low light and you do not need a flash. If I am outside and it is twilight, I use it and it looks like daylight yet.

Also, there are many tips on the Kodak site for specific picture taking...and read the manual. That is where I learned about the ISO,
This month our phot club is going to show we, point and shooters how to set up on "M" manaul setting for the F stops and such to shoot the pictures we want. Did you have the setting for stichting the picturers together...it looks like a picture with a zipper through it. I did this for Niagara Falls for a landscape wide view and it worked great.
100_0661.jpg


I love that with a digital, you just delete the pictures, you do not have to print to see them.

Also there are many programs to edit. I use adobe, my dd uses photoshop elements, and I just found a new one picnik.com

I saw a photography forum on the server here, maybe they have more info, but many are Canon and Nikon high end DSL users....

I generally keep mine on the P for the point and shoot, but use the ISO for the inside use.

Ah, I could not use a flash at the Ansel Adams exhibit in Phila so I shut the flash, not knowing the camera well enough to figure out in seconds how to manually shut the flash off from the menue....Well, I thought if I stood to the side I could get a picture wwithout a reflection of me in it...NO. Dang, his photographs were GREAT, but all have my reflection....

I would also suggest reseting the 8.1 setting to a lower, I use about a 3.1 for 8 X 10 or smaller pictures, Otherwise when i open the 8.1 when I upload thery are about 2 foot across. I generally let it at 5.1 because I do not print any larger then an 11X 14 or 16 X20.

I use photobucket to share too...
http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n260/dimarie11/100_0516.jpg
http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n260/dimarie11/100_0525.jpg
http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n260/dimarie11/100_0467-1.jpg
I think this was used on the ISO setting but close, you can see there is no flash in the door or shadows, but I see the glare on her glasses so I can't remember???? But the rest of that nights pictures I know I did not remember to have the flash on, it was closed and did not pop up.....
100_0456.jpg

Eatern Pennitenturay in Phila as featured on Ghost Hunter, same floor as sighting they caught.
100_0570.jpg

I will get my manual out and we can PM to share information if you like.
Dianne
 
Thanks for all of the info!!

Yes, I too love Digital....I have taken over 1000 pictures of the play and rehearsals already. I figure the more I take the better chance of having
a few descent pictures. And I always have friends who want copies
so I upload them to Walgreens and then share my album with cast & friends
and they can order if they want to!!! I've become known as the unofficial
photogrpaher. SO, now I'm feeling a bit of pressure to make sure I have
some descent pictures!!

How do you upload pictures to your post? I can't seem to figure it out?

I go to the play again this eveing and will try the ISO.

The ISO will work with action shots? Like I said before I get some blur
in the pictures. If I try to set it on the shutter setting it's too dark.
Ok, so tonight I will go to the play, use the ISO setting and see what happens.
If I'm not happy with it I still have 4 more performances to get it figured out.


So if I change the picture size to 3.1 or 5.0....I assume that will allow
for more pictures on my card?

My other problem is there is a scene during the play with the middle
of the stage being VERY bright and the sides very light (not as bright).
When I take a picture of the whole stage the center (where it is bright)
is washed out.

Yes, I do have a setting for stitching photos together.
But can they be printed that way?

I'll be back this evening (Wednesday late, to let you know how it went!!)
Thanks again!!!
 
Hi,
If you can try dimming a room and have one of the kids walk around and see what happens as a test.
I know I took pictures of fireworks and they did not come out a blur. Yes with a smaller size the more pictures will fit.
There is a setting on the top right side of the camera, that takes multiple fast one after the other shots. I see it next to the clock timer...it has a picture of several what looks like photos one right behind the other.

It is one of those cameras you can get a lot from, it is learning about it. The end of the month at the photo club we are getting to know the settings on the camera better so I will share what I learn about the camera.

The pictures I posted I uploaded to photobucket.com
On their website you upload pictures from your computer like the online Albums. From there, next to the picture you would like to post online are links. One says, direct link, another has img next to it. To post pictures with a photo showing I left click and it copies the link ready to show the pictures. The one that says direct link appears like in my other post that is an active link to the photo.

In the tool bar above when you reply, there os a post card looking icon, the third from the right. If you click on this, any photo you have posted on the internet it can link to and disply in your post.
That is a nice title to have and many people will be so thankful for your dedication to be a memory keeper. Kuddo's to you.
good luck,
dianne
 
I'm going to move this thread to the photography board. You get more advise on the subject there.
 
This is a complicated subject but there have been lots of threads about it if you scroll through old ones here.

Here's one from a Sticky above that might be helpful: http://www.disboards.com/showthread.php?t=1618944 (Most of the pictures of mine on that thread were taken with a camera like yours, the Canon S3 IS. But it's really not the camera as much as it is just understanding how to use it.)

There are two types of movement - your camera moving, and your subject moving. Each one makes it difficult but together = Major Blur. One thing you have to do to start is to keep your camera perfectly still. For this, you can use a tripod, monopod, gorillapod, or even just place your camera on a still surface like a trashcan, railing or seat, etc. Use the timer setting so you don't shake the camera when you hit the shutter button. This alone will go a long way toward improving your pictures.

Setting the ISO higher is one thing you can try, and just switch it back during the part of the show that's very light. Practice doing this in low light before the show. The only thing about high ISO pictures is that they can have a lot of "noise" in them, but there's sofware you can run them through (called Noiseware, for one) that will make them look better.

You might want to read a book called Understanding Exposure by Brian Peterson, which comes highly recommended around here. The three things that make up an exposure on a digicam are shutter speed, aperture, and ISO. You've got to play with that combination in order to get good photos, especially in low light. Low light is a challenge for everyone, even pros with great equipment.

Thre's more, but I'm sure others will chime in. Good luck.

PS there's a long running thread here for users of the camera I mentioned above. It's similar to yours, so you might be able to find tips that will help you there, too. http://www.disboards.com/showthread.php?t=1235546&referrerid=70088
 
I need one asap. B&H isn't taking orders until Wednesday. Has anyone ordered directly from Gary Fong.

Is there a better diffuser for a comparable price??

thanks!!
 





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