Dwarf rabbit

That is a great idea! I would have never thought to do that for my 2 babies. :)

Yay, hope it works that way at your markets too. :) I always cram the greens back in with the fresh carrots and beets now, in the back of them, and when I see other people pull off the tops and look to throw them out, I tell them about the bunny people and they stuff them back on the shelf for gathering purposes too. That way they don't have to wait, just can grab the discarded tops.

I didn't see the post about carrots being expensive, I have never seen an expensve carrot. The tops are actually better for them than the carot themselves.

I think that was the poster's point - they were buying fresh carrots with tops to give the bunny the tops, but the fresh carrot bunches are like twice as much money as a bag of carrots. However, if you can go 'harvest' the discarded tops for free....
 
Pellets should only be given as a treat, and in very small quantities. Our bunnies get about 1/4 of a cup 3 times a week. Our vet told us that pellets were originally created to fatten up meat rabbits. They can be eaten quickly because the fiber is chopped up and they don't require a lot of chewing. They're also sweetened so bunnies will eat a lot of them. They're not made with the bunnies health in mind since meat rabbits aren't meant to live long. Since pellets don't have those long fiberous strands, they do nothing to prevent hair balls. Hay pushes fur right out of their systems before it has a chance to clump up in their stomachs or intestines. We use Oxbox Bunny Basics/T food. The T stands for timothy (no alfalfa pellets for adult bunnies).

Thank you for posting this. I have had bunnies for the past 8 years and never once did my bunny vet tell me this. I have 2 male Lionheads (one double wooly) and even though I brush them every single day, they still have had stasis problems. I am now wondering if it's because I feed them pellets, along with lots of hay, every day. My 5 1/2 year old (in my avatar) has also been having some potty problems - loose stools but they are not cecotropes. Wonder if too many pellets is the problem? Thanks again!!

I also wanted to add - don't get a bunny because you think they are going to be a cute little cuddly pet. Some are quite tempermental even after being spayed/neutered. I know; I have one! :)
 
Pellets should only be given as a treat, and in very small quantities. Our bunnies get about 1/4 of a cup 3 times a week. Our vet told us that pellets were originally created to fatten up meat rabbits. They can be eaten quickly because the fiber is chopped up and they don't require a lot of chewing. They're also sweetened so bunnies will eat a lot of them. They're not made with the bunnies health in mind since meat rabbits aren't meant to live long. Since pellets don't have those long fiberous strands, they do nothing to prevent hair balls. Hay pushes fur right out of their systems before it has a chance to clump up in their stomachs or intestines. We use Oxbox Bunny Basics/T food. The T stands for timothy (no alfalfa pellets for adult bunnies).

Thank you for posting this. I have had bunnies for the past 8 years and never once did my bunny vet tell me this. I have 2 male Lionheads (one double wooly) and even though I brush them every single day, they still have had stasis problems. I am now wondering if it's because I feed them pellets, along with lots of hay, every day. My 5 1/2 year old (in my avatar) has also been having some potty problems - loose stools but they are not cecotropes. Wonder if too many pellets is the problem? Thanks again!!

I also didn't know about the pellets and not feeding so much. We have a 2 yr old Holland Lop and he's been smashing his cecotropes to his bottom a lot lately. I thought it was because of too many fresh vegetables, but I bet it's too many pellets.

If you don't feed many pellets, how much hay, vegetables, etc do you give per day, and do you feed twice a day? Right now we feed hay and pellets twice a day, usually 8 pm is his bigger feeding and than I give him a little more pellets and more hay at 8 am. I've kind of cut back on the veggies, because I thought that was causing the mushed cecotropes. But, I should probably cut the pellets back, huh? :confused3
 
I saw the topic and had to take a look, because I am considering buying a rabbit for my children. I'm still doing research so this information is great! Is one breed better than the other. I am considering a mini lop.
 

If you are feeding a really good quality Timothy based pellet with lots of fiber and none of those extra flavored pellets and or seeds, you shouldn't be seeing poop problems and having messy bottoms. I fill my Mable's bowl every 3 to 4 days and she has no issues. She has tons of hay and gets fresh vegetables once a day along with her treat. If for some reason you do occasionally have a soft poop, give them about half a banana, that will help even things back out.


I choose a wide variety of vegetables. Kale and spinach, which should be given sparingly, as they have a lot of Vitamin A. Romaine (no iceberg, it will make them sick), parsley, cilantro, broccoli, cauliflower, Brussel sprouts, carrots. She doesn't like celery and she isn't big on melons. She likes apple, but prefers dried, but only the kind that is strictly dried fruit and nothing else. She likes banana, but not many other fruits. Never give corn or potatoes, they turn to sugar and can cause stasis and to death. This is why you should also check to make sure your pellets doesn't contain ground corn.
 
LoverDisney said:
I saw the topic and had to take a look, because I am considering buying a rabbit for my children. I'm still doing research so this information is great! Is one breed better than the other. I am considering a mini lop.

Do your research, contact a local rabbit rescue group and adopt. Please DO NOT buy from a pet store, those are raised and sold by breeders and don't have the best care. Check www.rabbit.org for all the best information. Some breeds are "more sturdy" than others and may be better suited for children. They're are best to get in already bonded pairs, they are social animals and do better when they aren't alone. They are very intelligent animals and need stimulation, like lots of toys and my girls favorite toy is a cardboard box, pine cones( wash them and let them dry first) and apple tree twigs(which I don't have real access to).

I would probably say a mini Rex or Dutch would be good. If you have a rabbit rescue group close by, take the kids, the rabbits will choose you, and they usually have bonded pairs. My Mabke seems to be the exception to the rule about pairs, she prefers to be solitary and her best friend is one of my cats. She is just over 7 years old and in great health. Vet visits aren't cheap, about $400 a year, and we have to drive 2.5 hours to find a rabbit savvy vet, but he's worth it.

I am very cautious and, I guess even anal, because I have lost 3 rabbits due to something I may have not known and could have done differently and I just watch everything I do for my girl, rabbits health issues aren't easy to treat, and there is very little medicine wise they can give them, so I just take the extra steps not to make mistakes.
 
I saw the topic and had to take a look, because I am considering buying a rabbit for my children. I'm still doing research so this information is great! Is one breed better than the other. I am considering a mini lop.

Not sure where in PA you are but if you are in the Philly area I know a great rescue nearby in Jersey http://littlefurriesrescue.org/. I know she has fosters out in Philly.

Oh, and you might want to foster some bunnies to see if they would be pets you would want for a life time.
 














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