Camera Help!

[photo_chick]

Is there a thread of pictures that where taken with this camera I would?

Would shots of fantasmic come out with this camera I have never been able to before and would like too.

Whether or not shots will come out or how good shots people get are, will depend on your skill level and what lenses you choose as well. The camera body is really only a small factor. 90% of what gets the shot is all on the photographer, not the equipment.

 

[ukcatfan]

Does this seem like a good deal?

http://www.adorama.com/Als/ProductPage/IPXKXBK2A.html

Is there a thread of pictures that where taken with this camera I would?

Would shots of fantasmic come out with this camera I have never been able to before and would like too.

That is a little high in my opinion. You can get the two lens kit for $623.95 from B&H. You do not get the extras but they are not worth much. The card is worth about $7-8 and is not likely fast enough for video. The bag is practically worthless for walking around Disney. The cleaning kit is not worth much either. The only thing of value is the charger and batteries which are probably worth about $20-25 combined. B&H also has free shipping on it right now where Adorama is probably going to be around $10. That said, I bet Adorama would cut a little off the price or offer free shipping to get the sale from B&H. You could call them to see what they will do.

 

[ukcatfan]

Is there a thread of pictures that where taken with this camera I would?

Would shots of fantasmic come out with this camera I have never been able to before and would like too.

Whether or not shots will come out or how good shots people get are, will depend on your skill level and what lenses you choose as well. The camera body is really only a small factor. 90% of what gets the shot is all on the photographer, not the equipment.

She is absolutely correct. For Fantasmic itself, I would use the 50-200mm and around ISO 3200-6400 and shutter priority. You should do pretty well with that. A better lens would let you lower the ISO, but at the cost of around $900-1000 for the lens. Since the output of the K-x at high ISOs is some of the best around, I find it just fine for the money. It certainly blows away any p&s.

There is not much point in looking at sample shots at this level of camera. They are all capable of capturing incredible images and the skill level of the photographer means the most in the quality of the shot. Also, the lens used for the shot can make a huge difference. If you want to compare similar shots from other cameras in the class, check out the K-x review on DPReview. http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/pentaxkx/

 

[ukcatfan]

One last thing I saw you mention in your first post was HDR. The K-x can do in camera HDR images. Like all HDR images, you must use a tripod, but it is a pretty fun feature.

 

[disneyfanUSA]

Thank you both soooo much for all the help! One more thing I found on walmart that they have this camera for 500 could someone point me towards a used lens for about $100 what would be a better this option or just buying the two lens kit?

 

[ukcatfan]

Thank you both soooo much for all the help! One more thing I found on walmart that they have this camera for 500 could someone point me towards a used lens for about $100 what would be a better this option or just buying the two lens kit?

This is the cheapo tele I have from when I first bought my K100D. It is not the same quality as the Pentax 50-200mm, but it is decent and $37 http://www.keh.com/camera/Pentax-Autofocus-Non-Mfg-Zoom-Lenses/1/sku-AP099991076410?r=FE

Here is another that KEH has. It is a Sigma and I know nothing about it. It is $76 http://www.keh.com/camera/Pentax-Autofocus-Non-Mfg-Zoom-Lenses/1/sku-AP09999050993J?r=FE

They probably have some more options as well as the Pentax 50-200mm used, but their site is acting up tonight and I cannot find much. B&H and Adorama also have used departments.

 

[seashoreCM]

For good low light pictures of not absolutely still subjects, you need a faster lens. Like f/2.0 or bigger. Very few point and shoots have this.

Also I saw these on another thread but have no clue what they mean easy access to exposure compensation

I too wish I could get to the exposure compensation adjustments more quickly. Without so many button pushes for "menu", "scroll up or down", and "exit"

A reminder, exposure compensation does not make the camera take better low light pictures compared with other adjustments you might make instead. Lightening up the picture requires the same means -- bigger aperture, higher ISO, or slower shutter.

Exposure compensation is used mainly to make the background less washed out when the camera automatically optimized the exposure for a darker subject, or make the background less shadowy when the camera optimized for a lighter subject.

Some cameras let you do the equivalent of exposure compensation by aiming at something else in the picture about the same distance away as the main subject, pressing the button halfway, then framing the shot and taking it. Often the panel viewfinder will lighten or darken to give a better idea of what you will get before you take the shot.

Digital camera hints: http://www.cockam.com/digicam.htm

 

[Master Mason]

For good low light pictures of not absolutely still subjects, you need a faster lens. Like f/2.0 or bigger. Very few point and shoots have this.


I too wish I could get to the exposure compensation adjustments more quickly. Without so many button pushes for "menu", "scroll up or down", and "exit"

A reminder, exposure compensation does not make the camera take better low light pictures compared with other adjustments you might make instead. Lightening up the picture requires the same means -- bigger aperture, higher ISO, or slower shutter.

Exposure compensation is used mainly to make the background less washed out when the camera automatically optimized the exposure for a darker subject, or make the background less shadowy when the camera optimized for a lighter subject.

Some cameras let you do the equivalent of exposure compensation by aiming at something else in the picture about the same distance away as the main subject, pressing the button halfway, then framing the shot and taking it. Often the panel viewfinder will lighten or darken to give a better idea of what you will get before you take the shot.

Digital camera hints: http://www.cockam.com/digicam.htm

I have used exposure comp to increase shutter speed when I have maxed ISO and apeture, and then gone back and adjusted it in post processing. A picture with a slightly off exposure can be fixed, you can't fix blurr.

 

[zackiedawg]

As the thread has clearly migrated towards DSLRs, I just wanted to back up a tiny bit and throw in one small suggestion, in case the OP happened to really just want to stick with something small and pocketable, or is of a fairly low skill level with cameras and just wanted something fairly simple that could manage to perform in low light. Being as the OP had a T77, they are familiar with the size convenience, and have gotten decent results from it in better light...low light is the one area it, along with all compact cameras, falls down.

Just in case a compact camera is still wanted, several models of Sony P&S cameras have features built in which allow them to perform in low light conditions far better than other compact cameras...it might be something worth considering if deciding not to make the move to a DSLR at this time (I have nothing bad to say about moving to DSLRs...I've had them myself for years, and love them). The Sony HX5, TX1, TX5, and TX7 all have 3 modes specifically designed for low light situations, notably hand-held: Anti Motion Blur (AMB), Hand-held Twilight (HHT), and High Dynamic Range (HDR). With these modes, these cameras have greatly expanded abilities at higher ISOs, up to ISO3200, and can shoot with very low noise and high detail not possible with other P&S cameras. AMB and HHT mode take 6 consecutive photos (at a rate of up to 10 frames per second) with one shutter press, aligning and stacking those in-camera - the stacking process rebuilds detail lost in each individual frame from noise, while eliminating that noise. AMB mode prioritizes shutter speed and avoids stacking any part of the photo in motion, so you have no motion blur in the shot (but lose a little detail and clarity within the moving subject) while HHT mode prioritizes the lowest possible ISO to properly expose. HHT mode would be the preferred mode, and can be used when there is only light movement in the shot...AMB mode should be used when there is clear motion within the shot that must be unblurred. HDR mode only stacks 2 frames rather than 6, but it specifically shoots one frame for highlights and one for shadows, blending the two as needed for better shadow detail. It can be used even handheld, as the camera has the ability to both align and stack the shots.

The TX-series cameras are the replacements for your T77 camera...slimline cameras with sliding covers that can fit in a chest-pocket. They have touch screen controls that work surprisingly well, with customizable screen layouts to put your most-used controls at one-touch operation, and allowing custom movable spot focus by touching any point on the screen where you want to focus. The TX5 is slimmer, is waterproof and shockproof, and has HD video while the TX7 is slightly larger, but with a higher res LCD screen and higher-spec HD video output.

I use a TX1 as a backup to my DSLR - nice to have something small that slides in a pocket and can be forgotten. I just got back from Disney yesterday, and used the TX1 quite a bit day and night around DHS and Downtown Disney, shooting handheld HHT mode up to ISO3200...it really is a marvel that a P&S can perform quite so well at high ISO and in low light.

Just thought I'd add that into the mix, if you decide to go that route. Or even if you decide to get a DSLR, many of us love having a small second camera on hand for those times when you don't want to lug the big cam along, or for spontaneous shots when you otherwise wouldn't have a camera on hand.

 

[photo_chick]

I have used exposure comp to increase shutter speed when I have maxed ISO and apeture, and then gone back and adjusted it in post processing. A picture with a slightly off exposure can be fixed, you can't fix blurr.

I've done this too (it's how I shot my DD's dance with a Rebel XT and the 75-300). You can push digital this way if you shoot RAW.

Exposure compensation has a lot of uses.

 

[disneyboy2003]

Is there a thread of pictures that where taken with this camera I would?

Have you looked on Flickr? There is an entire Flickr group dedicated to Pentax K-x users. Here's the link to photos from the Pentax K-x.

Would shots of fantasmic come out with this camera I have never been able to before and would like too.

Whether or not shots will come out or how good shots people get are, will depend on your skill level and what lenses you choose as well. The camera body is really only a small factor. 90% of what gets the shot is all on the photographer, not the equipment.

I absolutely agree with what photo_chick said above and with what ukcatfan & others have said previously. The camera itself is only a *very small part* of what gives you great photos. And, honestly, *any* dSLR camera (not just Pentax or Canon or Nikon or Sony or etc) has the potential to give you the kind of photos you're looking for.

It's like asking whether this brush will help me paint a masterpiece. In the hands of an artist, *any* brush can paint a masterpiece. In my hands, however,...well, I guess you can call it "modern art." So the analogy is that it's NOT the camera that takes good photos, it's the photographer who *knows* how to use the camera to take great photos.

What I would hate to see happen to you is that you spend the $400-600 for a new dSLR camera, only to end up with the exact same photos (or worse photos) than the ones you've been taking before!

For Fantasmic photos, you'll not only need a dSLR, but you'll also need (1) a low-light (large aperture) lens and (2) knowledge of the basics of photography (ex. aperture, shutter speed, ISO). These are the tips for low-light photography that everyone has alluded to on this thread.

Here are my photos from Fantasmic, using my Canon dSLR and a low-light lens.

​

 

[disneyfanUSA]

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Wow those pictures are amazing thanks for sharing!!

This is how my Fantasmic photos came out in in 2007!!!

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Thanks everyone for the help and pointers! I am really serious about getting the Pentax!!
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and for a random question will HD videos burn onto regular DVD+R discs?

 

[ukcatfan]

For Fantasmic photos, you'll not only need a dSLR, but you'll also need (1) a low-light (large aperture) lens and (2) knowledge of the basics of photography (ex. aperture, shutter speed, ISO). These are the tips for low-light photography that everyone has alluded to on this thread.

I disagree with (1). Fantasmic is not dark enough to need one if you use a high enough ISO. Using 1600 is probably pushing it, but at 3200 or 6400, you will get a fast enough shutter speed for most of the shots in that show using a normal zoom lens.

 

[Altair]

Canon 75-300mm no IS kit lens at 120mm, 400 ISO, 1/60th sec at f/4.5, -1EV and no Photoshop trickery:

Brightlly lit subjects surrounded by a very dark background confuses your camera. You can take fireworks at 1/60 also. While these shots may not be perfect, they are at least decent.
The changing light conditions and how fast things happen are what make Fantasmic! tough.

 

[disneyfanUSA]

edit:

I found on adorama the white pentax K-x for $498 no tax. and amazon has the lens for $129 new. Do you think Adorama would price match this I would rather buy both items together.

 

[ukcatfan]

edit:

I found on adorama the white pentax K-x for $498 no tax. and amazon has the lens for $129 new. Do you think Adorama would price match this I would rather buy both items together.

It never hurts to call and ask.

 

[disneyfanUSA]

It never hurts to call and ask.

I am going to order the camera tomorrow. What lens would you use for a graduation that is indoors with low light, the 50 200mm or the 18 55mm. Do you think a high shutter speed and iso are required?

 

[ukcatfan]

I am going to order the camera tomorrow. What lens would you use for a graduation that is indoors with low light, the 50 200mm or the 18 55mm. Do you think a high shutter speed and iso are required?

You cannot know until you get there and see how far away you are. My guess is that you would use the 50-200mm. For the shutter speed, you need to remember the 1/focal length rule. So, if you are shooting at 50mm, you calculate as follows: 50mm x 1.5x(crop factor)= 75mm = shutter speed of 1/75. Since there is no 1/75 on the camera, you use 1/80. Now, since you have IS in the camera, you can go a little slower than that when worrying about camera shake. What you cannot do is get so slow of a shutter that you get blur from the subject moving, so I would not ever go slower than around 1/125 when the subject is slowly moving. I think the slowest I would go at 200mm is 1/160, but a little faster is better if possible.

So, that takes us to ISO, since you are probably going to be using the most wide open aperture anyway. (Use shutter priority mode) You need to up the ISO to the point where you are getting the proper exposure. You will know you are there by the settings not blinking in the viewfinder. If they are blinking, up the ISO some more. Since using the K-x for around six months, I find all the way up to ISO 6400 to be acceptable. I would try to keep it below 3200 if you can though.

For the white balance, I suggest enabling the strong auto WB under tungsten light option. It is option 9 in the custom menu. The options are strong or subtle. I set mine to strong and have never looked back! That is one of the WB situations where DSLRs are known to struggle. The K-x blew me away on this.

 

[disneyfanUSA]

Is the Pentax k-x heavy how big is it? Will it be a pain to carry around? After reading this post i am getting nervous it will be a pain to carry around and I won't be able to use it!

http://www.disboards.com/showthread.php?t=2485289

 

[ukcatfan]

Is the Pentax k-x heavy how big is it? Will it be a pain to carry around? After reading this post i am getting nervous it will be a pain to carry around and I won't be able to use it!

http://www.disboards.com/showthread.php?t=2485289

For a DSLR, it is small and light. Even the kit lens sold on it was made a little lighter than the older version. The big difference maker for many is the quality of the strap they use. Don't use the free one as they are never comfortable. Many on our board are fans of the BlackRapid sling, but I have not used one. I use an OP/TECH Pro Loop and find it very comfortable. If you start to get more things like a flash and more lenses, then you will probably want a camera backpack as well. If you are going to just use two lenses, then you do not have to use a special bag. Since most people carry some sort of bag anyway, an extra lens and the extra batteries can fit there. (Be sure to protect an extra lens though) For water protection, I suggest always carrying a couple big Ziploc baggies to put the camera in if raining.