Camera Help!

Thanks!....one more question what is the difference between the DA and DAL for the Pentax 50-200mm?
 
Thanks!....one more question what is the difference between the DA and DAL for the Pentax 50-200mm?

The DAL line is basically DA "light". They made them to go with the K-x (and its predecessor the K-m) so that the total weight would be lower than the original versions. The DAL are the ones that come with the packages when you buy the K-x. In terms of image quality, they are basically identical. In terms of build quality, the DAL are lighter because they replace some metal parts with plastic, so are technically not as durable. It is really hard plastic, so the only real risk of damage is if you drop the camera really hard and it broke the plastic mount. If you do that, you have more to worry about than the lens mount anyway! I have both the original DA 18-55mm and the DAL 18-55mm and I do not have a preference between the two. I have been using the DAL lately because I have the red one and it matches my red body :thumbsup2

I think there are only three DAL lenses: 18-55mm, 50-200mm, and 55-300mm
 
I just bought it tonight a couple of hours ago!! :cool1: I am excited!!!

Thanks everyone for the help! :thumbsup2

I am sure I will have more questions when it arrives. :rotfl:
 

How exciting!

I hope it comes quickly.

I love my DSLR, but there is a huge learning curve and I still have a lot to learn.

Dawn

I just bought it tonight a couple of hours ago!! :cool1: I am excited!!!

Thanks everyone for the help! :thumbsup2

I am sure I will have more questions when it arrives. :rotfl:
 
Well my camera hust arrived :cool1:

But i can not get it to turn on :headache: There where no batteries in the box so I used CVS alkaline batteries. Are these not compatible? Help please. :confused3
 
I received my additional lens today as well. I ordered a 50-200mm and received a pentax 55-300mm. Is this a better lens? Should I keep it.
 
I'd say if you paid for the 50-200, and they shipped you a 55-300, and based on reviews of the two lenses, it sounds like you made out! The 55-300 seems to get better reviews, has significantly more range, and seems to run about $100 more. The extra range is certainly nice for birds, wildlife, and travel...I'd keep it myself.
 
Just as I expected I am not to good with the DSLR yet...

I have been lurking on pentaxforums. But one thing I do not know how to fix is how to stop the iso and the other stuff to stop flashing red when in live mode. I am currently in P mode. I read this is a good setting for beginners? What do you think??
 
Just as I expected I am not to good with the DSLR yet...

I have been lurking on pentaxforums. But one thing I do not know how to fix is how to stop the iso and the other stuff to stop flashing red when in live mode. I am currently in P mode. I read this is a good setting for beginners? What do you think??

I do not use live mode often, but I suspect that is a warning that the image is either over or under exposed and the camera needs some setting changed in order to get a proper exposure.
 
I do not use live mode often, but I suspect that is a warning that the image is either over or under exposed and the camera needs some setting changed in order to get a proper exposure.

I think it is under exposed? When in manual it flashes -3. Any idea what I should change? I tried changing the shutter speed and aperture. I probably was not doing it correctly any ideas?
 
I think it is under exposed? When in manual it flashes -3. Any idea what I should change? I tried changing the shutter speed and aperture. I probably was not doing it correctly any ideas?

Try adjusting ISO. The combination of the three makes the exposure.
 
Have you tried pointing the camera at a bright light, and see if the -3 goes away? It could just be telling you that the room is dark and the settings are underexposed badly. Maybe going to the smallest F stop number, ISO3200-6400, and a shutter speed of 1" or so, and see if that makes the -3 go away.
 
:headache:
Have you tried pointing the camera at a bright light, and see if the -3 goes away? It could just be telling you that the room is dark and the settings are underexposed badly. Maybe going to the smallest F stop number, ISO3200-6400, and a shutter speed of 1" or so, and see if that makes the -3 go away.

That worked for getting rid off the -3 and it I got it to zero but the bottom of the screen is still flahing red. :headache:
 
I just put mine on LV and manual and cannot duplicate what you are seeing. The red flashing is telling you that the exposure is not within the -3 to +3 range. If you got it anywhere in that range, the bottom should stop flashing. If you are not in manual mode, then there could be something else going on. In the other modes, the -3 to +3 is the exposure compensation that is adjusted by the wheel and pressing the Av button. So, if you are not in manual, you can get it to 0 while still not getting a proper exposure and causing the blinking at the bottom.

FWIW, I would not use the LV mode too much. Using the viewfinder is a much better technique at taking pictures and you will get better results. Also, you do not get the really fast focus on LV.
 
Agreed with UKcatfan...it really should stop blinking once you're in the range...so if something is still blinking, it's making me think there's something else it's trying to tell you.

Really, most DSLRs are not suited to being used in live view mode - live view in most DSLRs is designed to be an occasional focus aid for manual focus or tripod work, or for closeup macro work and studio work on tripod. The only DSLRs suited to regular live view use would be the Sony models.

The only other thing i can think of would be if you have a blinking icon in the middle left of your screen - there's one shaped like a thermometer which will warn you when the sensor is overheating. Again, live view systems (other than Sony) are not meant to be used much, so if you keep live view on for 5 minutes or longer, it can overheat the sensor and the camera might warn you to shut it down. If that's the blinky-thing you're seeing...turn off live view!
 
ugg my battery just died! I need to go buy some rechargeables. What kind do you use? I have a AA charger that's Kodak would any brand of rechargeables charge on this or just Kodak ones?

Also, when I get the batteries I will probably get a new SD card what type and size do you recommend? I would like to use the video camera the one have now only lasts for 2mins and 20secs.

And do you recommend using RAW all the time? Because it takes up a lot of space.
 
ugg my battery just died! I need to go buy some rechargeables. What kind do you use? I have a AA charger that's Kodak would any brand of rechargeables charge on this or just Kodak ones?

Also, when I get the batteries I will probably get a new SD card what type and size do you recommend? I would like to use the video camera the one have now only lasts for 2mins and 20secs.

And do you recommend using RAW all the time? Because it takes up a lot of space.

It should charge any NiMH battery. If there is a chance the batteries might sit for weeks without use, I suggest getting the new "pre-charged" AAs. The most popular is probably the Sanyo Eneloops. I use the Duracell version sold all over and have been happy. They do not last as long as say a 2500 mah normal NiMH, but those lose their charge when just sitting around.

Look for a Class 6 or higher SDHC card. You might have to order one. The typically sold ones are Class 4 and will limit the video time to around two minutes. My favorite brand is Kingston. They have been extremely reliable and are cheaper than Sandisk, which is the market leader. I like buying from Newegg b/c they have the best customer service I have ever seen with an online retailer. I have also bought off of Buy.com and Amazon.

I shoot RAW+JPG b/c I have enough storage and then I have a JPG to share with my wife right away.
 


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