Boss me around! instructions for low light shots

PoohJen

<font color=green>Willing to share a Mickey Bar?<b
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Jun 25, 2004
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Hi Everyone,

I'd like to take some shots at the indoor batting cages this weekend. Think very low light, no flash. Lower than basketball gym lights. Action is bat swinging and pitching, catching.

I know how to bump up the ISO on my camera, but really, that's about it.

Anyone want to try to direct me clearly on how to take these shots with my Rebel XT? Literally in the form of "Jen, you have to push this, then turn this dial that's located here..." I'll be using my Sigma 18-125. I also have a zoom 70-300, but don't think that'll be useful at all here. (duh)


For added fun, if you'd like to tell me how to try some shots using my new Canon 430ex flash. Maybe i'll sneak in a few flash shots (posed and/or action).

What do you think? :confused3

TIA! :banana:
 
Not having a Rebel XT, I cannot answer the question as asked. However, I think you'd be better served by understanding night shooting rather than getting instructions that work for a single place and time.

The challenge with low light shooting is getting enough light on your sensor for the camera to produce a picture. There are four main things you can do to get a picture with low light.

ISO - This controls how sensitive your sensor is. The higher the ISO number, the less light it takes to make a picture. On the downside, the higher the ISO, the more "noise" or unwanted little dots you'll get in your picture. ISO for cameras typically range from 100 to 1600. Some only go to 800. Others go as high as 3200. The level of noise also varies from camera model to camera model. ISO 800 might look good on one type of camera but it might look awful on another.

Aperture - This is how wide the opening in your lens is. The wider the aperture, the more light you get on your sensor. The aperture is specified as an f-stop number. The smaller the number, the bigger the aperture. I know that's confusing, but I didn't invent the system. I think the Sigma lens you are using has maximum aperture of f3.5 to f5.6 (depending on how far you zoom).

Shutter Speed - Obviously, more light will hit your sensor the longer you have shutter open. The downside is that the longer you have the shutter open, the more likely it is that the camera will move while taking the picture. Movement while the shutter is open causes blurry pictures.

I'll try to explain it again with an analogy. Let's say that you have a tank of water over a bucket. You poke a hole in the tank so that water starts to fill the bucket. The aperture is the size of the hole. Make the hole big and more water gets into the bucket. The ISO is the depth of the bucket. If you have a high ISO, your bucket isn't very deep and it doesn't need much water to fill it. If you have a low ISO, you need more water. The shutter speed is the amount of time it takes to fill the bucket.

The fourth thing you can do is add more light. That's what your flash is for. Unforunately, there are a lot of drawbacks to flash - they bother people, they change the look of things, they cause red eye, etc. Still, sometimes you don't have any options. If you can't get the shutter speed that you need with your highest ISO and widest aperture, your only option may be to add more light.

Another thing that really helps at night is using a tripod. A tripod lets you take a picture with a much longer shutter speed. If you try to take a picture with a 1/4 second shutter speed holding your camera by hand, you are likely to get a somewhat fuzzy shot because you moved the camera just a bit while taking the shot. The tripod keeps the camera from moving at all. Image stabilizers can also help you use longer shutter speeds without blurring the picture.

The problem with tripods and image stabilizers is that they only stop the camera from moving. They don't help with the subject at all. If you take a 1/4 second shot of someone hitting a baseball, you might get a cool motion effect, but you won't get a very sharp picture of the batter.

If you can't use a flash and the shutter speed is too slow even with the highest ISO and widest aperture, the only option left to you is to increase the maximum ISO or widest aperture. That means either using a camera with a higher maximum ISO or using a lens with a wider aperture.
 
I don't think your current setup will get you the results you want. My daughter takes gymnastics in a gym with very poor lighting, probably similar to your batting cages. Even with a faster lens (50mm f/1.8 or 85mm f/1.8) my shots don't turn out that good because the body movements are just too fast for the max shutter speed you're able to get at 1600 ISO and f/1.8 aperture. And she's just a 5yo gymnast so her cart wheels aren't moving that fast.

So your posed shots might be OK, but your action shots will probably be blurry. Sorry.
 
I was going to say, the ISO might be OK but I'd be worried about the lens. Can you use a tripod? That might help?
 

The others have nailed the large points. Low light + movement = blur!!
Higer ISO will help, but will have some impact on the noise level of the photo.

Tripod will help eliminate the camera shake, but the subject movement will be an issue. Can you pose?:idea:

If you can squeeze a few in with the flash you'd get MUCH better results! Try setting the camera in manual mode, shutter speed to match ambient light, lets say 1/15, aperture about f/6 to f/8 and set your strobe up to rear curtain. You'll get some movement before the flash and the flash will light up the subject and 'freeze' the action. The result is quite nice!

How to do that on your camera I don't know....... sorry:rolleyes1
 
OK, I can help a little bit here since I have a Rebel and can tell you which buttons and dials to use.

Rebel002.jpg


Set the dial with all the letters on it to M, red arrow pointing to it. To set the shutter speed, just move the notched dial up by the button that you push to take the picture, another red arrow pointing to it.

Rebel001-1.jpg


To set the aperature, you need to hold the Av button on the back and turn the same notched dial that you use to change the shutter speed.

I have had a little bit of luck getting OK shots in the gym for basketball games. Not great by any means, I will need a better lens for that. I can post some examples, but right now I'm on the way out to another basketball game. I'll try later. But the settings I'm using are shutter speed shows 125 on the back panel ( I think this translates to 1/125, but I'm not sure) and I set the aperature as low as I can get it. ISO at 800 or 1600.
 
Get close so you can use the wide angle of your lens, that will have your widest aperture.
Set your ISO to the highest available and set the mode to Av, selecting the widest aperture. Now you have the best low light settings you are going to get.

Chances are you will still get some motion blur. The next step is a faster lens = more $$$. Welcome to the wide world of buying photo gear! ;)
 
well i just totally read your post wrong so ...never mind..sorry... so i deleted everything i wrote ( insert my well earned "bird brained/air head" smilie here)

but hope it works out ok for you
 














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