WDW Cheat Sheet

[mouselovenfamily]

Although I try, I'm not the pro many of you are on this board. With my upcoming trip getting very close, the nerves are setting in on my WDW photography. I'm assuming the crowds will be huge so I will do the best I can. So to help my effort I'm wanting a cheat sheet to be able to glance at while there so I can quickly get myself ready for shots.

I have my D90 and will have 3 lenses. My 18-105, a 55-300 and 50mm 1.8.

For dark rides I'm thinking of setting my 50mm 1.8 at 1/60, ISO maybe 1600+.

This is where I'm asking for help. Mostly for dark shots and fireworks. I'll try to set up for fireworks at Casey's Corner, If I can get there early.

Thanks!!
Renee

 

[NCtoFL]

For the 50mm at 1/60, the first things that pop into my mind are that you would have to be stationary, and also have room to get your subject in frame.

 

[mom2rtk]

Hey neighbor!

I do a lot of my dark ride shots at 1/40 and don't have any problem. But I've been pushing it to 3200 ISO. Depending on the ride, I don't think 1/60 at 1600 is going to work even at 1.8.

Which rides are you most interested in?

 

[mouselovenfamily]

Hey neighbor!

I do a lot of my dark ride shots at 1/40 and don't have any problem. But I've been pushing it to 3200 ISO. Depending on the ride, I don't think 1/60 at 1600 is going to work even at 1.8.

Which rides are you most interested in?

I can go to 3200, I just wasn't sure if I needed to go that high. My D90 broke on our last vacation so this will be my first time using the 50mm.

I your haunted mansion organ shot!! Any shots in the HM would be great! The ghost would be awesome!!

And fireworks, ugh! My last trip I got some okay shots, but I would love to know how to improve. Here are some examples:

 

[Gianna'sPapa]

This was my Holy Grail shot. The Peter Pan ride had been mocking me for years! This was shot with a Sigma 30mm f1.4 lens at f1.4, 1/100 sec and ISO 12800. I did some PP to include some noise reduction. Its now my turn to mock the ride!!


PP Mermaid by Gianna'sPapa, on Flickr

 

[Gianna'sPapa]

As far as fireworks, I would use a tripod, your 18-105, f11, ISO 100 and a remote for a shutter speed of 2-7 seconds depending what is happening. I focus out to infinity (manual) and then back it off slightly. Here are a couple using that technique. You will notice the squiggly lines in your shots which usually indicates camera shake. The stabilization of the camera (tripod) is the key element.


MK Castle Orange FW by Gianna'sPapa, on Flickr


Dessert Party FW by Gianna'sPapa, on Flickr

 

[BirdsOfPreyDave]

Not to venture too far off topic, but has anyone experimented with bulb mode for fireworks? If so, I'd be interested to see some sample pictures.

 

[NLD]

These are notes I had jotted down for myself a couple trips ago when I was still learning. They are tips that were largely taken from some tutorial threads Mark had started a long time ago.

Kilimanjaro Safari

• Fast shutter speed (to minimize shake)
• Medium to high ISO (to achieve fast shutter speed and large enough DOF)
• Large enough DOF to compensate for difficulties in nailing focus
• Use continuous shooting release mode
• Telephoto pros: close ups of animals. Cons: shake magnified.
• Back row, left side of vehicle for best photo ops. Front row for less bounce.

Indoor Shows

• High ISO
• Medium to large aperture (compromise ISO with DOF)
• Appropriate shutter speed (fast to freeze motion, slightly longer to blur)
• Spot meter subject
• Consider wide shots—telephotos magnify motion blur

Dark Rides

• High ISO
• Large aperture
• Slowest shutter speed possible without getting blur
• Try matrix metering. If necessary, spot meter.
• Shutter priority with highest usable ISO and lowest reasonable shutter speed
…OR…
• Aperture priority with auto-ISO and minimum shutter speed set
• AF-C (autofocus-continuous)
• Manual focus if needed (might be hard for camera to lock focus on some dark ride scenes)

Light Parades at Night (Spectro)

• High ISO
• Large aperture (note: will give up some DOF with large aperture)
• Fast shutter speed (to freeze motion)
• Matrix meter. Camera should get lights correct and backdrop dark. Change if needed.

Fireworks

• Use a tripod and remote shutter release
• Turn off VR
• Turn off noise reduction
• Small aperture (F8-11) For finale, smaller aperture (F16-22, because more fireworks=more light)
• Low ISO
• Use bulb mode (1 to 8-12 seconds)
o Keep shutter open longer with few or small bursts
o Keep shutter open shorter with many or larger bursts
• Focus on castle (or other interest point), switch to manual focus, leave it (check periodically)
• Err on the side of a wider field of view. Can crop later.
• Okay to include crowd. Gives sense of depth and space.
• Listen for rocket to go off; open shutter; close shutter after enough light and color.
• Use black foam or paper to cover the lens between bursts to get multiple bursts in one shot.

NOTE: For Wishes, if concerned about getting the castle fairly well exposed… Focus on the castle. Meter from castle and then underexpose by 2/3.

ALSO: Remember: as aperture gets smaller, castle will be darker—will need to keep shutter open longer to get right castle exposure!

 

[NLD]

Also, for what it's worth...

When the castle is a dark blue or purple, it can be hard to get a good exposure on the castle and on fireworks. I found out after my last trip that if you play with the blue luminance and saturation sliders in Lightroom, you can bring back some more detail into the castle.

Not to venture too far off topic, but has anyone experimented with bulb mode for fireworks? If so, I'd be interested to see some sample pictures.

Yes, I think that's what a lot of folks do. That way you can easily keep the shutter open longer for small bursts and close it earlier for when there are lots of bursts.

If you take it a step further and put a ND filter on the lens and use bulb mode, you can keep the shutter open a REALLY long time and capture lots of bursts in one frame. (Tom does this in some of his shots, maybe he'll see this and post some. I haven't done it.)

As for samples of bulb mode....

These are of Illuminations, but here are some samples:

4.1 sec


SelectedFlorida2010-545 by nicole_lynn_, on Flickr

3.3 sec


SelectedFlorida2010-547 by nicole_lynn_, on Flickr

5.2 sec


SelectedFlorida2010-549 by nicole_lynn_, on Flickr

5.5 sec


SelectedFlorida2010-550 by nicole_lynn_, on Flickr

 

[Gianna'sPapa]

Not to venture too far off topic, but has anyone experimented with bulb mode for fireworks? If so, I'd be interested to see some sample pictures.

Both of those were taken in the bulb mode. I forgot to mention it because I just assumed everybody knew that. That's what I get for assuming!

 

[Experiment_626]

If you take it a step further and put a ND filter on the lens and use bulb mode, you can keep the shutter open a REALLY long time and capture lots of bursts in one frame. (Tom does this in some of his shots, maybe he'll see this and post some. I haven't done it.)

That's what I've been doing for the last year or so as well. Here's one example:


Wishes April 2 2011 Flickr by Scott S. Baxter, on Flickr

There's only one downside to doing this, and that is that you only get a handful of images from each show. You need numerous bursts in each exposure to make it worthwhile. But I find the result reminds me of being there so much that I'll gladly take the minor trade-off.

SSB

 

[mouselovenfamily]

This was my Holy Grail shot. The Peter Pan ride had been mocking me for years! This was shot with a Sigma 30mm f1.4 lens at f1.4, 1/100 sec and ISO 12800. I did some PP to include some noise reduction. Its now my turn to mock the ride!!

PP Mermaid by Gianna'sPapa, on Flickr

I wish I had the 1.4 but the 1.8 will have to work for now. It will still be an improvement over my kit lens. Beautiful! I am going to get some thing I will be happy with! I just hope the HM stops!!!

As far as fireworks, I would use a tripod, your 18-105, f11, ISO 100 and a remote for a shutter speed of 2-7 seconds depending what is happening. I focus out to infinity (manual) and then back it off slightly. Here are a couple using that technique. You will notice the squiggly lines in your shots which usually indicates camera shake. The stabilization of the camera (tripod) is the key element.


MK Castle Orange FW by Gianna'sPapa, on Flickr


Dessert Party FW by Gianna'sPapa, on Flickr

Infinity...I will check into that. Haven't done the before but I will look into it!! Thanks!!

These are notes I had jotted down for myself a couple trips ago when I was still learning. They are tips that were largely taken from some tutorial threads Mark had started a long time ago.

Kilimanjaro Safari

• Fast shutter speed (to minimize shake)
• Medium to high ISO (to achieve fast shutter speed and large enough DOF)
• Large enough DOF to compensate for difficulties in nailing focus
• Use continuous shooting release mode
• Telephoto pros: close ups of animals. Cons: shake magnified.
• Back row, left side of vehicle for best photo ops. Front row for less bounce.

Indoor Shows

• High ISO
• Medium to large aperture (compromise ISO with DOF)
• Appropriate shutter speed (fast to freeze motion, slightly longer to blur)
• Spot meter subject
• Consider wide shots—telephotos magnify motion blur

Dark Rides

• High ISO
• Large aperture
• Slowest shutter speed possible without getting blur
• Try matrix metering. If necessary, spot meter.
• Shutter priority with highest usable ISO and lowest reasonable shutter speed
…OR…
• Aperture priority with auto-ISO and minimum shutter speed set
• AF-C (autofocus-continuous)
• Manual focus if needed (might be hard for camera to lock focus on some dark ride scenes)

Light Parades at Night (Spectro)

• High ISO
• Large aperture (note: will give up some DOF with large aperture)
• Fast shutter speed (to freeze motion)
• Matrix meter. Camera should get lights correct and backdrop dark. Change if needed.

Fireworks

• Use a tripod and remote shutter release
• Turn off VR
• Turn off noise reduction
• Small aperture (F8-11) For finale, smaller aperture (F16-22, because more fireworks=more light)
• Low ISO
• Use bulb mode (1 to 8-12 seconds)
o Keep shutter open longer with few or small bursts
o Keep shutter open shorter with many or larger bursts
• Focus on castle (or other interest point), switch to manual focus, leave it (check periodically)
• Err on the side of a wider field of view. Can crop later.
• Okay to include crowd. Gives sense of depth and space.
• Listen for rocket to go off; open shutter; close shutter after enough light and color.
• Use black foam or paper to cover the lens between bursts to get multiple bursts in one shot.

NOTE: For Wishes, if concerned about getting the castle fairly well exposed… Focus on the castle. Meter from castle and then underexpose by 2/3.

ALSO: Remember: as aperture gets smaller, castle will be darker—will need to keep shutter open longer to get right castle exposure!

Thanks, I am putting this on my cheat sheet for sure! I will look like a quarterback with my little arm band covered with notes all over it!

Also, for what it's worth...

When the castle is a dark blue or purple, it can be hard to get a good exposure on the castle and on fireworks. I found out after my last trip that if you play with the blue luminance and saturation sliders in Lightroom, you can bring back some more detail into the castle.



Yes, I think that's what a lot of folks do. That way you can easily keep the shutter open longer for small bursts and close it earlier for when there are lots of bursts.

If you take it a step further and put a ND filter on the lens and use bulb mode, you can keep the shutter open a REALLY long time and capture lots of bursts in one frame. (Tom does this in some of his shots, maybe he'll see this and post some. I haven't done it.)

As for samples of bulb mode....

These are of Illuminations, but here are some samples:

4.1 sec


SelectedFlorida2010-545 by nicole_lynn_, on Flickr

3.3 sec


SelectedFlorida2010-547 by nicole_lynn_, on Flickr

5.2 sec


SelectedFlorida2010-549 by nicole_lynn_, on Flickr

5.5 sec


SelectedFlorida2010-550 by nicole_lynn_, on Flickr

Beautiful! It looks like you were standing across from spaceship earth...were you by the water?

That's what I've been doing for the last year or so as well. Here's one example:


Wishes April 2 2011 Flickr by Scott S. Baxter, on Flickr

There's only one downside to doing this, and that is that you only get a handful of images from each show. You need numerous bursts in each exposure to make it worthwhile. But I find the result reminds me of being there so much that I'll gladly take the minor trade-off.

SSB

Not sure I am capable of this but I will try!! Let's hope. Wonderful shot!!!!!! Looks like you were right in the middle of the street??

 

[Experiment_626]

Looks like you were right in the middle of the street??

Pretty much. Stake out your spot relatively early and put your tripod in place and people will usually get the idea, in my experience. But you'll want to keep one eye out for people who might trip over the legs, especially after they darken Main Street for the show. If I have people in front of me as well as behind and on the sides, I try to keep one arms looped loosely through the camera strap, and I'm always on the lookout for people who might not see the tripod legs.

I notice that Disney's PhotoPass photographers have a gizmo on their tripods that casts a relatively subtle light downward. I asked and was told that it is there precisely to help guests see the tripod legs at night. I wonder if there's a way to get some third-party thing that would provide a similar margin of safety for the rest of us. I already get mistaken for a PhotoPass photographer a dozen times a day when there, at least, so I don't think doing that would make things any worse in the regard.

SSB

 

[Experiment_626]

Hmmm ... here's one interesting possibility:

http://www.optcorp.com/product.aspx?pid=16692

SSB

 

[BirdsOfPreyDave]

Pretty much. Stake out your spot relatively early and put your tripod in place and people will usually get the idea, in my experience. But you'll want to keep one eye out for people who might trip over the legs, especially after they darken Main Street for the show. If I have people in front of me as well as behind and on the sides, I try to keep one arms looped loosely through the camera strap, and I'm always on the lookout for people who might not see the tripod legs.

I notice that Disney's PhotoPass photographers have a gizmo on their tripods that casts a relatively subtle light downward. I asked and was told that it is there precisely to help guests see the tripod legs at night. I wonder if there's a way to get some third-party thing that would provide a similar margin of safety for the rest of us. I already get mistaken for a PhotoPass photographer a dozen times a day when there, at least, so I don't think doing that would make things any worse in the regard.

SSB

As I started reading your post, I thought to myself, "I wonder if I should get some glo-sticks to tape to my tripod legs?"

We've got a light that I bought for our patio table that clamps onto the umbrella pole. I think it's the same thing PhotoPass photographers use. http://www.amazon.com/Rite-LPL1040BX-Wireless-Umbrella-Light/dp/B0036FTBQU/ref=pd_sim_lg_1

 

[mouselovenfamily]

Pretty much. Stake out your spot relatively early and put your tripod in place and people will usually get the idea, in my experience. But you'll want to keep one eye out for people who might trip over the legs, especially after they darken Main Street for the show. If I have people in front of me as well as behind and on the sides, I try to keep one arms looped loosely through the camera strap, and I'm always on the lookout for people who might not see the tripod legs.

I notice that Disney's PhotoPass photographers have a gizmo on their tripods that casts a relatively subtle light downward. I asked and was told that it is there precisely to help guests see the tripod legs at night. I wonder if there's a way to get some third-party thing that would provide a similar margin of safety for the rest of us. I already get mistaken for a PhotoPass photographer a dozen times a day when there, at least, so I don't think doing that would make things any worse in the regard.

SSB

Great ideas! Last time I was there I set up behind a man in a wheelchair. I asked if he minded me shooting over him and he had no problem with it. My tripod set right up past his wheelchair and he didn't have to worry about being bumped around. Worked well for both of us!

 

[mom2rtk]

I can go to 3200, I just wasn't sure if I needed to go that high. My D90 broke on our last vacation so this will be my first time using the 50mm.

I your haunted mansion organ shot!! Any shots in the HM would be great! The ghost would be awesome!!

And fireworks, ugh! My last trip I got some okay shots, but I would love to know how to improve. Here are some examples:

[/IMG]

Thanks Renee! I got lucky and our doombuggy stopped for a bit in front of the organ. I squeezed my elbows in, held my breath and used burst mode. But if I recall properly, I had the 1.4 lens on. You know, if you wanna ditch that Nikon, maybe I'd loan could loan you that lens!

I bet you're really looking forward to putting the D90 through the paces at Disney after last year's disappointing break.

NLD..... what an awesome cheat sheet you have set up!

I shoot exclusively on bulb mode for fireworks. I don't know Wishes well enough to anticipate what's coming next, and I like to adjust my shutter speed just based on how bright I think the bursts have been.

I'm really hoping to find a new perspective for fireworks this year. Maybe further down on Main Street, or maybe even from Frontierland. I'm tired of coming home with the same shots each time.

Don't forget about the Magic, Memories and You. that really complicated things for me since I wanted to be near the castle for that part of the show. I think I decided it was better to go higher ISO and faster shutter speed for that show. If you haven't seen it yet, it's a definite don't miss. I'm getting close to some of those shots in my trip report linked below in my signature. Hopefully I'll get some posted before you leave!

And if I don't talk to you before you go...... have a great time!

 

[NLD]

Beautiful! It looks like you were standing across from spaceship earth...were you by the water?

Yes, right near the water, up against the rail... they were taken near the Mexico pavilion, near the CS restaurant (with the restaurant on our left as we were facing the lagoon). We had to stake out the spot well in advance, even in September, because it's a completely unobstructed view.

If I ever shoot Illuminations again I think I'd rather actually have something in the foreground, for interest. Maybe shooting from Japan. Or maybe even just shooting from the back of the crowd and getting people in the shot.

 

[Marlton Mom]

When shooting the FW in MK on Feb 29th (One More Disney Day) it was insanely crowded. I set up my tripod 90 mins before the FW. As it was getting darker out I was having a problem with people not seeing my black tripod legs. I was fortunate to have one of those vendors selling the light up necklaces right near me. I put a flashing necklace right over the top of the open tripod and let it slide down until it could go no further. People definitely saw my open tripod then.

On a previous trip I bought Glow Sticks and I taped them to the tripod legs. The flashing necklace definitely did a better job of increasing tripod visibility at night.

All this is just something to consider. Good luck with your photography plans and have a great trip.

~Marlton Mom

PS. These were taken on the on the Casey's side, sidewalk, right at the corner where the hub circle starts. I set up right behind the dip for the curb cut to get an inch or two of extra height and my tripod was cranked up to it's maximum 65 inches. I used bulb mode with a Vari ND filter. In the top exposure I kept the shutter open for 37 seconds and the bottom one was about the same. You have to watch out for those white fireworks as they will obliterate the color of anything previously exposed during a long exposure. Disney sure does like to use them a lot so I did not get to keep my shutter open for a longer time and try and get more colors. Hopefully when you go to shoot the fireworks it will not be as crowded and you can get a good foreground subject in your composition. The rumor was that there would be perimeter fireworks for One More Disney Day (there were not!) so I set up on the wide side. The other thing I would recommend is viewing you tube videos of the wishes show so you can see what I mean about the big white fireworks versus the colored ones.


fireworks 1 ~2 29 12 by Marlton Mom, on Flickr


fireworks 2 ~ 2 29 12 by Marlton Mom, on Flickr

 

[Marlton Mom]

This is what I mean about the white fireworks obliterating the colored ones in your shot:


fireworks 3 ~ 2 29 12 by Marlton Mom, on Flickr


~MM