Today was my last day of solo sightseeing in Tokyo. My body desperately needed a break from the go-go-go of the past week, but I just couldn’t sit around in the hotel with my feet up on a pillow when there was a whole new city out there waiting for me. So I plastered them in Band-Aid blister blockers and set off for another day of sightseeing.
I’m kind of amazed at how much I was able to accomplish in a day. I dunno if it was the metro helping me out or that I only gave each attraction a cursory look, but I seemed to hit at least three major sights each day. Oh, also – the late hours helped! Although many places don’t open til 10 or 11am, they stay open til 8, even on a Sunday.
So on this Sunday, I set off for the F u k a g a w a Edo Museum in Ryogoku because the Rough Guide said it housed a faithful re-creation of an pre-modern street, with buildings you can walk through and sound effects and even changing ambient light. This was my first time exploring a slightly more suburban area of the city, and it looked like this:
However, when I got to the museum, it looked like this!
One problem with the major guidebooks is they only get updated every 2 years, and Rough Guide missed out on the fact that this museum has been closed since July 2009 and won’t reopen til July 2010—d’oh!
But, since it’s easy enough to hop back on the subway, I headed for Ueno instead, where the S h i t a m a c h i Museum offers a similar experience—reconstructed homes and businesses—but this one focused on the common people of the lower wards of Tokyo starting from about the Taishō period (1912–1926) and on.
Ueno station is HUGE, and Ueno Park (where the museum is located) is even HUGER, so it took me a bit to figure out which subway stop and which exit would get me closest to the museum. My Pimsleur Japanese language program spent an entire unit on learning to say "Where is Ueno Park?" and "Where is Ueno Station?" so I was very excited to get to see these in person! Unfortunately, I did such a good job of figuring things out, I never got to practice saying either phrase.
Along the way I spotted…
I figured I couldn't pass up a chain called "Sweets Paradise," so I got one of the chocolate cream-filled thingies in the middle of the top shelf.
It was OK but, as I've mentioned, not as sweet as my American palate is used to.
When I got to Ueno Park, I spotted the first of many feral cats we'd see in Tokyo's parks on our trip. I am a sucker for kitties, so like a big goofball I followed it around trying to take its picture.
"Whatever. Take the dang picture already!"
The museum is in the southwestern corner of the park on the edge of Shinobazu Pond, which looked more like a lake to me! It's saltwater left from when the sea receded. It was all brown and marshy in March, but I hear it's covered with lotus blossoms in the summer.
The S h i t a m a c h i Museum
Admission is ¥300 for adults. Inside the door they had a KidCot station…
When I walked in, one of the docents heard me butchering Japanese and introduced herself as someone who spoke English. Then she proceeded to lead me on a private tour of the entire museum! It was wonderful – I got so much more out of the exhibits with the background she provided. Unfortunately, I was taking photos, not notes, so my descriptions are going to be kinda sketchy.
What I loved about this museum is that you are encouraged to go inside the exhibits and poke around. There are things in all the drawers and behind the doors. You just have to take your shoes off before entering each exhibit. The bottom floor is devoted to daily life in downtown spaces like shops and tenements. All the artifacts were donated by the public, so the things you see were actually in use at one time.
This is a re-creation of a the house of a merchant who made and sold
geta (wooden clogs).
Out front are a rickshaw and handcart from the old Edo period.
These are the straps for the clogs.
My guide very gamely posed for pictures as I snapped away.
I think she said this was a religious decoration that got added to over each year until it became huge!
The other side of the first floor contains a replica of a tenement—one building that housed multiple families and their businesses.
The story is that this part of the building was occupied by a mother and daughter who ran a sweet shop.
It's like the original Sweets Paradise!
My guide was so dear to explain and demonstrate everything for me!
The kitchen
The pantry?