The ABCs of Greece & Italy! X, Y, and Z, and that Friends is THE END!!! :) See you in Asia and Australia, Join Me THERE!!

[Steppesister]

Congratulations!!!!

Yeah... I pushed it this weekend. Had a nice day Saturday and had some trees down that needed to be cleaned up. I think I got a little dehydrated because I woke up this morning in afib but was able to get it under control within about 4 hours. First issue I've had with it in a few months.

Thanks, Andy!

Sounds like you know what your triggers are and can mitigate them a bit. Glad you recognized it and it flipped quickly.

 

[Steppesister]

Congratulations! You should be proud of all your hard work and are now able to enjoy some down time!! Looking forward to updates!

Thank you so much!! Now I'll spend a few weeks doing a bunch of remodel projects on my RV (new flooring!!) and I'm also looking for a travel contract. Fingers crossed!!!

 

[Steppesister]

Congratulations! Glad that all your hard work paid off

I know a lot of people in this program are working full time and have kids as well, but I just can't do that and feel like I am learning the material to the depth I should. But what I did worked well and now I can go back to work a lot less stressed out.

 

[Steppesister]

Congratulations! You've earned the break for sure.

Thanks, Mark. I'll have a short one- either I return to Bowling Green at the end of April and find work, or I get lucky and land a contract here in the Tucson area in the next couple of weeks and start mid-March. Either way, at least a few weeks off. Ish. I have a lot of work I want/need to get done on my RV. Tearing carpet out in no joke.

 

[Steppesister]

Hopefully you'll get whichever (or both!) you want.

We'll see. I got a lead this morning...

Was thinking circular polarizer too.

I always have one on. Always. Probably don't need it but it's there.

 

[Steppesister]

That sounds very interesting. Of course, there would be adjustments but at least you had a feel for what they used to eat.

Exactly! Not only interesting but tasty and fun too!

It must have been fun to have some travel companions like this family.

It was nice seeing a family out making memories and learning together. I really loved seeing this.

The crumbs on the table are the tip off. I might have still eaten the food, too, after removing the nibbled area.

I would have too, just pick off the top part and dive in. Although, to be fair, they had eaten the best fig jam goodie off of the top and I'd have wanted that. LOL!

It reminded me of the heavy sales pitch from a time share company. The silk worm part would be interesting but the sales pitch to buy a carpet would be annoying.

Especially after a long day of touring already. Everyone was just tired and anxious to get back by that point. It was very interesting and fun to see the rugs, but why be pushy?

 

[Steppesister]

Thermocline. In the summer it's about the 60' mark. The water is cold to that depth, but goes down to about 32F at that depth.

That's the word I was looking for!! I knew there was one from when I'd taken my Geo classes. There's a bi-annual turnover if memory serves.

 

[Steppesister]

If you go to the link and click on the down arrow at the top right beside the Turkish flag, you can get the English page.

OH thanks for that. I'll go back and fix that after I post this.

I have questions about that…

Archeology often does have many questions I suppose. But I think the history if pretty accurate on this one with many other historical accounts of him being there and buried (some from very secular sources). They talked about that is this one is pretty well documented.

That any part of it is still standing after 2,000 years says a LOT.

For sure!

I dunno about that. There’s some incredible architecture out there. I’ll say no more.

OH no, don't get me wrong. You are right, there are some very lovely buildings being built even today. But unless it's smaller scale like a private home with impeccable attention to detail there are very few with this scope and scale. Yes, there are large modern skyscrapers that are as big, but different I guess in true craftsmanship? Not sure how to say what I'm meaning here. But let's agree the ancients had quite a knack for impressive architecture.

So… This was not in the same building? And built three centuries later, right?

I wondered about that too. Maybe this was one built later and there was an original covered or not used ??? I don't know the answer to that question.

Such a tragedy with the most recent earthquake.

Incredible tragedy and heartache there. They don't standard building codes and are often still made from brick and not reinforced. So sad.

Nice that you were able to meet and befriend some nice people.

Indeed!

About 87.5%?

Okay okay. Just playing.

Hmmm, so, 7-10 tour options for 8 ports. So that's 56-80 chances that we'd pick the same 7 of 8 of those ports. Statistics was a while ago but am I right? 12%-.08%. Right? hehe!

Probably not… But I’d think there was very little of that meal that was unchanged in 2,000 years.

I dunno... I think a lot of those ingredients have been around a while, but I'll bet at least cooked very differently!

In a very biblical dish.

I noticed that fun little detail.

I’m not sure whether to or

I did some of each as well.

But did not bring out fresh food. This is a biblical feast people. Stuff like that happened all the time back in the day. Suck it up.

Warm Coke… yuck.

I was waiting for a Biblical miracle of my warm coke turning into an icy cold one.

Doesn’t surprise me. Have a friend from there and she has quite the EVOO palate.

OH, nice!!

Next week they’ll be brothers! It’s a biblical miracle!!

So not overly surprising to you.

No even a little!

I’d really like to see that. Sounds absolutely fascinating.

It really was! The whole process was so interesting. Crazy how time consuming it is. I wondered if they get carpal tunnel fairly often. Or need a chiropractor after a time.

<cough… choke>
How much????

No, that was not an exaggeration.

I wonder if pound for pound it beats spider web.

Now THAT is a good question. But so far, I don't think anyone's come up with a commercially feasible method of harnessing it. At least that I've heard of.

Hmmm… wonder if the cost of a good wine is offset by a potential buyer drinking more and thus more likely to loosen the purse strings.

I'm sure it is. They've certainly done their marketing on that one.

I really dislike that. I do not take kindly to pressure sales. At. All.

Best steer clear of Time Share ones then.

I’ve never heard of anyone being saved by a small bladder before.

Well it saves me from getting a good night's sleep every single night.... So there's that.

 

[pkondz]

We'll see. I got a lead this morning...

Oh nice.
Hope that works out for you.

I always have one on. Always. Probably don't need it but it's there.

Really! I’m sure I’d constantly forget to rotate it.

That's the word I was looking for!! I knew there was one from when I'd taken my Geo classes. There's a bi-annual turnover if memory serves.

Yes but I’ve never experienced that. Never dove up here in winter.

Archeology often does have many questions I suppose. But I think the history if pretty accurate on this one with many other historical accounts of him being there and buried (some from very secular sources). They talked about that is this one is pretty well documented.

I’ve just seen too many places that claim to be the burial site of _____ or resting place of _______ with very little evidence to support the claim

OH no, don't get me wrong. You are right, there are some very lovely buildings being built even today. But unless it's smaller scale like a private home with impeccable attention to detail there are very few with this scope and scale. Yes, there are large modern skyscrapers that are as big, but different I guess in true craftsmanship? Not sure how to say what I'm meaning here. But let's agree the ancients had quite a knack for impressive architecture.

Agreed!

Hmmm, so, 7-10 tour options for 8 ports. So that's 56-80 chances that we'd pick the same 7 of 8 of those ports. Statistics was a while ago but am I right? 12%-.08%. Right? hehe!

I’m wayyyyyy too tired to reliably do math right now. I was just kidding on the 7 out of 8.

I dunno... I think a lot of those ingredients have been around a while, but I'll bet at least cooked very differently!

We’ll you were at the meal and I wasn’t.

I was waiting for a Biblical miracle of my warm coke turning into an icy cold one.

Moses did that I think. Parted the Red Sea and chilled some Coke.

Pretty sure that’s the story. I’m positive Coke’s been around that long.

It really was! The whole process was so interesting. Crazy how time consuming it is. I wondered if they get carpal tunnel fairly often. Or need a chiropractor after a time.

I watched that video you posted. Very interesting.

No, that was not an exaggeration.

I didn’t think so. Still made me choke on my lukewarm Coke.

Now THAT is a good question. But so far, I don't think anyone's come up with a commercially feasible method of harnessing it. At least that I've heard of.

You need really tiny hands to milk the spiders.

Best steer clear of Time Share ones then.

Nah. Then I can (and have) handle.

Well it saves me from getting a good night's sleep every single night.... So there's that.

Whoops!

 

[David G Farr]

I have an MD and her NP lined up so far. She (the MD) has already given me some "precepting" during my own office visits and when I talk with her (she personally calls her patients to give lab results and answers questions) she is always quizzing me. I'm so excited to work under them!

I trained at a teaching hospital. The quizzing you referred to is often called “pimping” at academic centers. I did some rotations with a MD who was actually from my hometown and loved “pimping” me in front of residents that I also worked with.

 

[vamassey1]

Although some may argue that modern architecture is as skilled, I would argue (I'm told I do that a lot) that given the technology and materials, they were quite masterful at their craft; let alone how the messages themselves were expressed through the art of architecture.

I agree with this. The workmanship is so beautiful.

Here is a photo of what it probably looked like before earthquakes destroyed most of it:

Amazing. I did read the website too.

On the tables were little dishes of nuts and dried fruits with feta cheese wedges, decorative mounds of tzatziki and hummus, lettuce salad (I’m positive iceberg was NOT GMO’d yet, so for authenticity’s sake some chicory or dandelion or other field greens would have been more appropriate. It would probably have gone untouched too I suppose, so there’s that.), another little salad of leeks and veggies (that’s more like it), some little honey cakes with fig jam, and some olive oil with herbs.

This sounds and looks so good. Sorry about your coke. I could not drink a warm soda.

While the gentleman gave us the spiel, the Master Weaver Lady showed us the process of taking a brush and pulling a few of the very finest of strands out and then twisting and spinning them onto a spool using her foot power. One strand is 1/10 the width of a hair! It was literally so fine you had to really hunt for the strands as they were pulled out of the cocoons in the water.

Fascinating. It's great that they have kept up this craft.

Relieved to have found the perfect excuse to skedaddle, we found a bench outside and then found the others who were as poor as ourselves and the lot of us then spent the next half hour or more guessing at how many sales they turn per busload.

Excellent exit. This is one I would have no problem using. I don't like pressure sales either.

 

[Captain_Oblivious]

We just don't build like this anymore with such grace and magnitude. Although some may argue that modern architecture is as skilled, I would argue (I'm told I do that a lot) that given the technology and materials, they were quite masterful at their craft; let alone how the messages themselves were expressed through the art of architecture.

Modern architecture usually has a budget and a deadline, too. Rather than an artist giving his time and talent for the glory of God or other noble pursuit.

Everyone was getting pretty hungry by now given the mild complaining we heard amongst our tour group of about 30 folks. It was finally time to head to our restaurant destination, which for the life of me can’t find any name of. I’m so sorry!! Terrible trip reporting right there.

I'm just gonna call it "McDonald's".

To the best of my recollection, it was set in a historical train station used in during the 1920’s-1950’s and had quite a collection of train paraphernalia on display.

That sounds fun!

All of the dishes served to us could have, or would have, been served during the 1st c. AD.

So 5 loaves of bread and 3 fish?

It would probably have gone untouched too I suppose, so there’s that.), another little salad of leeks and veggies (that’s more like it), some little honey cakes with fig jam, and some olive oil with herbs.

Ok, total rabbit hole here, but there's actually a somewhat well-known golf story involving "fig jam". Apparently one prominent player has quite the reputation for being fairly egomaniacal about his game. And not afraid to say so. This got to the point where many fellow tour pros began to refer to him as "fig jam". It stood for "F--- I'm Good, Just Ask Me."

As we sat down and started to explore the foods, the mom noticed that several of the dishes at their end of the table had been nibbled on by (most likely) some local kitties.

They made sure to get us into a satisfied, big meal stupor then took us to… the Rug Factory.

Oh, how....exciting.

So, we pull up and are greeted by this smooth talking, well-dressed, suave, Turk, who pretends to be all cozy with our guide. “They’ve been friends since grade school.”, “We’re related.”, etc…. Let’s just say, it was a bit too hmm, overdone? Canned?

(Can you imagine working on one rug for 11 months?!)

No. I don't have the self-discipline to do anything like that.

It was a flashback to our visit to the Grand Bazaar in Istanbul. These people are RELENTLESS! They are aggressive beyond anything an un-intiated N. American could ever imagine.

This sounds like my version of hell.

Before we could even discuss how badly we had to pee, we were accosted by one of them, who asked us our names, where we were from, and how much we’d like to spend on one of these beautiful rugs.

Seriously. I would be dying a thousand deaths here. Where is the clearance rack?

Like who has $10,000-$50,000 just ready to trade for a rug after you’ve spend nearly that on the vacation alone?!

I have two kids in college. Clearly I am not the target demographic here.

A word about the “Factory”. This was actually a Co-op subsidized by the Turkish government with the goal of keeping the ancient art of making Turkish rugs alive and to provide a source of income to local women. They apprentice for a year and get an increasing cut of the sales the longer they weave. The Co-op sets them up with materials and skills. It’s not enough for the work they put into it, as it is with most schemes like this.

Well, now I feel bad for not spending the money.

 

[franandaj]

Definitely a different kind of vacation than I'm used to, but do wonder if I could "get used to that".

Normally i may not like a totally chill vacay, but after the last year, yes I will enjoy that.

Yeah, I just can't even eat that much. A fruit plate would have been all I could have managed and I'm not a huge pastry fan.

Well our fruit plates are not so much, plus Fran can eat way more than me. I have a piece or two and thepastries are reduced in size so that's nice as well.

I have no idea how far behind I am NOW given it's been like ANOTHER month since you posted that. Oy!

Well I've posted one day. Two updates. Very easy ones.

But hopefully NOW things are smoother sailing!!

Well sort of.

Yeah I do too. Seems strange they'd do that as long as you're eating and ordering more.

Even your Blind Rabbit place has a 90 minute limit.

I hope things are evening out! I know you're supposed to go on a cruise soon-ish; no change in plans with that?

No change. Single digits tomorrow!

Well, if you do, I'll be there soon.

Like I said, two updates so far.

As we sat down and started to explore the foods, the mom noticed that several of the dishes at their end of the table had been nibbled on by (most likely) some local kitties. I personally found it hilarious, but she was not having it. Clearly grossed out, she asked if they could have new items of those that had been pilfered.

I would be grossed out too.

Here's a photo of the full table as it looked when we arrived.

Looks like a nice spread.

You can see the decimated honey cake on the left side halfway up and the feta cheese that the critters noshed on.

No I can't, but I'm on my phone.

Like who has $10,000-$50,000 just ready to trade for a rug after you’ve spend nearly that on the vacation alone?!

Not me. I wouldn't spend much more than a couple hundred for a rug that would be covered in cat puke!

 

[pkondz]

So 5 loaves of bread and 3 fish?

Ok, total rabbit hole here, but there's actually a somewhat well-known golf story involving "fig jam". Apparently one prominent player has quite the reputation for being fairly egomaniacal about his game. And not afraid to say so. This got to the point where many fellow tour pros began to refer to him as "fig jam". It stood for "F--- I'm Good, Just Ask Me."

 

[tazdev3225]

Your report inspired me to possibly change my grandson's cruise from Alaska. He mentioned to me that he wants to go to Italy one day. His last name has inspired him. That name is about Italian as he gets, but I won't argue that with him. I may keep Alaska and use a Mediterranean Cruise as a reward for college or culinary school. He is debating being a chef or a chemical engineer. I'm leaning towards chef for him as he is an amazing cook and really enjoys it. Looking forward to more to share with him.

 

[afwdwfan]

(I’m positive iceberg was NOT GMO’d yet, so for authenticity’s sake some chicory or dandelion or other field greens would have been more appropriate. It would probably have gone untouched too I suppose, so there’s that.)

Pretty sure they've given me dandelions here at some supposedly fancy meals I've had. Not sure why they couldn't keep it authentic there!

Here's a photo of the full table as it looked when we arrived. You can see the decimated honey cake on the left side halfway up and the feta cheese that the critters noshed on.

Maybe they should have waited to place the food after everyone was seated.

(those originated around Peru and the Spanish brought them to Europe/Asia later)

But did they exist in Biblical times?

(Can you imagine working on one rug for 11 months?!)

No.

A word about the “Factory”. This was actually a Co-op subsidized by the Turkish government with the goal of keeping the ancient art of making Turkish rugs alive and to provide a source of income to local women. They apprentice for a year and get an increasing cut of the sales the longer they weave. The Co-op sets them up with materials and skills. It’s not enough for the work they put into it, as it is with most schemes like this.

Interesting... so who are the "salesmen?"

 

[Steppesister]

K is for Kitty Kats and Killer Seas

******* WARNING LONG POST FULL OF HISTORY, MYTHOLOGY, AND CAT PHOTOS*******​

Bright and early, we awakened to yet another Greek island coast in the view of our porthole; once again, we’d be tendered to shore shortly after sunlight. This meant another alarm clock going off at dawn and another ho-hum, grab-n-go breakfast before trekking the length of the ship to the theater in the stern. I’m not complaining. I was in Greece for Pete’s sake- a place I may be lucky enough to only get to once in my lifetime.

Both of us, Mikki and myself, were very anxious for this day of excursions, which would ultimately hit, some old, some VERY old, and some new but timeless places. Mom and Dad chose to stay behind and enjoy the ship. Everyone vacations differently and in the end, after the day of touring, I’m glad they did. This was one of our more strenuous days that would have been harder for Mom. Plus she gets seasick pretty easily so...

Our group was finally called and off we herded to the little tender boat. A quick ride got us to “The Old Harbor” of Mykonos Town where smaller touring boats and high-end yachts, as well as the Grecian Coast Guard dock. From there, we boarded onto another larger boat that held maybe 50-70 people. It was… It… It had seen better days. “Stuff” was piled up everywhere. There was an old, dilapidated vending machine with nothing in it in one corner and old paint cans, brushes caked with crusty paint, and tarps were piled in another.


Okay it was frightening.


Nevertheless, we took our seats and said a little prayer.

The crossing to the island of Delos took about 40 minutes on fairly smooth-ish seas and everyone was happy to disembark and begin the tour.

Delos: A mostly uninhabited island with some fabulous (but not Ephesus fabulous) ruins and more cats than crooked politicians. Notice I said “mostly uninhabited”. While the Ancients have long since gone, there is a small contingent of caretakers and archeologists who live on Delos year-round who do some ongoing archeology projects as funding comes in, run the museum, and who apparently breed enough cats to supply the planet. I do wonder if the ongoing archeology projects are secretly funded by the Delos Island Kitty Black Market.

​

Now, for a brief history, although our AMAZING, and perhaps BEST guide of our entire Greece stay, did a REALLY fantastic job at giving us a ton of history about the island and its long litany of cultures who occupied it. I’m going to copy and paste because I’m both lazy and very busy. Yes, one can be both simultaneously. (If you're interested in my most recent project stick around until the end. Or the next post, depending how many photos I can get away with.)

The Greek mythological history is incredibly important to this island. Taken from this website, https://greekreporter.com/2022/06/1...ere-greek-myths-cults-and-history-come-alive/ , “The island, referred to as “the sacred island of Delos,” is where, as Greek mythology tells it, Leto gave birth to Zeus’ twins Artemis and Apollo.

Mythology has it that because of Hera’s jealousy of Zeus and Leto, she ordered all lands to shun Leto, making it difficult for her to find a place to give birth.

However, Zeus asked Poseidon to find a secret, safe place for Leto to give birth. She ended up on the island of Delos, and, since the island is not connected to the land, she was able to safely give birth to her twins, Artemis and Apollo.

From that moment onward, the small, rocky island was declared by Callimachus—in the third century BC—to be “the most sacred of all islands” of Ancient Greece and was devoted to Apollo. It was said to be “bathed in the unique light” of Zeus’ son.” But even before this story: “Delos had a position as a holy sanctuary for a millennium before Olympian Greek mythology made it the birthplace of Apollo and Artemis. From its Sacred Harbour, the horizon shows the three conical mounds that have identified landscapes sacred to a goddess (it is predicted that the deity's name is Athena) - in other sites: one, retaining its Pre-Greek name Mount Cynthus, is crowned with a sanctuary of Zeus.” (from Wiki)

​

For reference, Apollo was the god of practically everything – including but not limited to music, poetry, art, prophecy, truth, archery, plague, healing, sun and light. Artemis was the goddess of chastity, hunting, and the moon, often depicted with her trusty bow and arrow and a short tunic to aid in running through the woods. Her maidenly virtue—for she swore never to marry—was presented in counterpoint to the passionate and fiery Aphrodite. Not surprisingly, both missions to the moon are named after these two.

Historically, Delos has a very tumultuous past with the original occupants being displaced a multitude of times and the “collective” coffers being pilfered by Athenians on numerous occasions. My friends, there is nothing new under the sun. Their reason for removing the treasury? “For its safety and the safety of the residents.” Oddly, I’ve heard that before, even recently. History… seems to repeat itself ad nauseum.

It was sunny and slightly chilly during out 2-hour tour of the various areas of Delos. We started in the main residential area where there was a mixture of what would have been very small, ordinary homes and elaborate palaces (relatively speaking) for the wealthier islanders. For the most part, all that was left were the walls and some steps, but a few boasted some exquisite mosaic floors. You could see in some of the walls built in "shelves" for lights and other things. Our guide skillfully explained how the homes would have looked while people lived in them with frescoed, plaster decorating the interior walls, the mosaics serving as “carpets” in the centers of the room with the sparse furniture, often stone “couches”, arranged against the walls. Here is an EXCELLENT resource explaining ancient Greek residential architecture in case you’re interested. The coolest part is that when I read through this page, it has a photo of the EXACT same mosaic in Delos that I took!!! Maybe I missed my calling as a travel writer… https://www.oldest.org/ancient/greek-homes/

(Our guide told us that while the Romans made arches famous, the Greeks were using them for centuries before them. The difference was the Greek architecture usually had arches serving underground structures such as this water delivery system on Delos. Delos had no reliable water source so relied on elaborately constructed cistern, drainage, and reservoir systems like this.)









​

The best preserved, and possibly most well-known of the residences on Delos, is the House of Dionysus. Its namesake comes from the lavish stone mosaic picturing the god Dionysus riding a panther/leopard. It’s still mostly intact and the shape of the cat can still be made out. (Clearly, cats have been a thing on Delos for thousands and thousands of years.) This is an example of one of the upper class, private homes from the 2nd C. The columns surrounding the mosaic tell us that it was a 2-story home with the columns supporting the upper floor.

​

After our tour of the residential area, our group made its way to the remains of the stadium which has enough structure intact to offer the visitor a very nice idea of what it looked like during its use. To quote from https://www.archaeology.wiki/blog/2012/03/19/ancient-theatre-of-delos-to-be-restored/ , “The ancient theatre of Delos was one of a few ancient Greek theatres completely built in marble. It had a capacity of 6.500 people. Its construction started around 314 BC and ended around 70 years later, in 250 BC. It was abandoned in 88 BC, after the Mithridates plundered the island. Here our fabulous tour guide took a few moments to share a bit about the hugely, even today, importance of theater and drama in Greek culture. The most thought provoking thing I remember her saying was, “Greeks used theater and drama to teach morals and ethics to its citizens; it was meant to promote debate and discussion and was often interactive using question and answer format.” In fact, she told us, attendance of the theater was a required activity regularly, and every year there was an entire week dedicated to mandatory theater attendance which was performed by traveling philosophers and teachers. Of note, ALL parts were played ONLY by men, but all citizens came to watch- men, women, and especially children.

(I took that because I thought the verdigris was interesting. This is what's left of a metal support used for a statue or other theater-related thing (?))​

She went on to explain that the word “idiot” originally in Greek conferred insult to a person who had the right to vote but did not exercise it. She shared that the theater was used as a tool and gathering place to educate citizens in HOW to be a productive, prepared, PARTICIPATORY person in the democratic process by learning debate and hearing all sides and drawing conclusions. She says the word still means something very close in modern Greek and is still used as an insult as it was then. Something to ponder…. I myself appreciated her bringing some contemporary relevance to this very ancient place.

Next, we were led to the area called The Sacred Way. Here’s the skinny: This vast portico, originally lined with dozens of enormous columns, was the site of a giant statuary pissing war. Each year, during the festival venerating Apollo, whose temple was just beyond this wide, marbled walkway, brought in citizens from all over Greece and especially the nearby Cyclades Islands wanting to make a name for themselves. I found it an incredibly insincere form of worship, if one could even call it that, unless we’re meaning worship of oneself. Let me explain: When they came from across the sea, they came with elaborate marble statues of various gods, but especially Apollo or Artemis. But even more shocking, a fair amount of them were likenesses of themselves! They would adorn the statues with expensive jewelry and make it as ostentatious as possible and then for a week or more straight either the patron or designated family representatives would get all decked out and sit next to their “offering” (which was prominently signed of course) and brag about how big and costly their gift was. Everyone knew it was a competition to see who would bring what each year, and status was assigned accordingly. Is this sounding familiar? I’ll keep saying it, humans have evolved not one iota (hey, look at me using Greek words!); it may be done in different places and have different forms but the basic premise of pride hasn’t gone anywhere. Anyway, the cats have been very busy in this section of the island for millennia knocking all of the statues off their pedestals when the caretakers weren’t looking. With very little “work” left to do, now they just lay in the sun guarding their kitty kibble dishes that are strewn about the island.

(NOT my photo!)​

There is not much left of the actual Temple of Apollo nor his gigantor statue; that was pilfered in the mid-1800’s by French archeologists whose idea of archeology was rob and dismantle. Our guide said she always gets a chuckle out of the fact that they got a sizable chunk all the way to the harbor only to discover there was zero way they could get it onto a boat or transport it without sinking any vessels they had. So that piece was abandoned there. However, a hand is in the local island museum, of which unfortunately we did not get to see, and a foot is in the British museum of Natural History. Only the pelvis and torso remain in its original place. There is even less remaining of the temple of Artemis. However on a distant hillside far from these, is yet another, and even older temple they believe was dedicated to Athena, erected long before the Romans took control of the little, remote island of Delos.

​

Lastly, we finally got to see the area that Delos is most famous for: The Terrace of the Lions. “The Terrace of the Lions, also was dedicated to Apollo by the people of Naxos shortly before 600 BC. It originally had 9-12 squatting, snarling marble guardian lions along the Sacred Way; one was removed and is presently situated over the main gate of the Venetian Arsenal. The lions create a monumental avenue comparable to Egyptian avenues of sphinxes. (A Greek sphinx is in the Delos Museum.) Today, only seven of the original lions remain.” (Wiki) Obviously, these statues really don’t look like lions, but our guide did speak to that, explaining that art was still quite primitive in 600 BC and that was likely the best they could do with the tools and experience they had at the time. Added to the damage time has inflicted, they are affectionately known locally as the Melting Lions of Delos. Anara and I were able to see the lion that was taken to the Venetian Arsenal much later in our trip, although I’m not sure I actually got a photo of it.

​

As we headed back to the dock area, our guide stopped briefly to share a couple more interesting facts. This super cool inscribed rock, maybe 5 feet square, featured some not-so-ancient graffiti of some familiar names of visitors. Ever hear of James A. Cook? Here’s his mark left behind. Other explorers from the 18th and 19th centuries also visited leaving an inscription. She left us with the staggering statistic that only 30% of Delos has been excavated and as funding can be secured they will continue to explore what the Ancients left behind. As vast as the island is and to know that so little has been unburied is quite staggering- what treasures there must be yet to be found!

​

With that it was time to begin our sailing back to the island of Mykonos for the remainder of our tour. Same boat, same prayers. By the time we arrived, many in our party probably wished they'd prayed a little more. The day had grown progressively windier, and the seas were now dancing with whitecaps. While it certainly made for a lovely photo backdrop, it didn’t bode well for our voyage. We cast off and once clear of the little, sheltered harbor things got dicey. At first it was sort of fun. You know… we’re all on an adventure. But our adventure quickly turned into a living, hellish, nightmare. I could never possibly write as eloquently or skillfully about what sailing on rough seas is like than how Mark ( @Captain_Oblivious ) did in his hilarious and, as always, entertaining TR HERE .

It was JUST. LIKE.THAT.

Old women were literally screaming as we heaved up the 20-foot swells and crested over the tops. It was like riding Velocicoaster, but 1,000 times more terrifying. Within 10 minutes of the hour-long ordeal, you could literally see far too many folks turning green, sweating, and trying to hold in their bio-spills. Frantically people were trying in desperation to locate plastic bags and too late for at least one, the crew came around with some trash bags. Our little ship was now a vomitorium. The lady directly behind Mik and me was having a legit panic attack, hyperventilating, moaning, and half passing out. A lady across from us had some orange-ginger essential oils that she started offering drops of. I can attest that it actually does work. Those who accepted it were incredibly thankful and said they did feel a little better. (We use those in the recovery room fairly often and yes, studies and experience do show that they can work.) Personally, while I didn’t scream, I did note where the life jackets were and had a plan. When you see 20-foot walls of water, taller than the ship coming straight at you, that you cannot see the top of, hit the crest, then see them crashing against the window beside you, feel the freefall straight down on the other side… over and over, over for an hour…. you just want it to be over. It was all I could to keep things from spilling out the other end. You think I exaggerate. It was 100% not safe and I wondered if the crew were regretting that crossing.

Not soon enough to prevent a thorough desecration of the ship, we finally arrived at the Mykonos docks and too many of us stumbled out wondering if we could even do the remainder of the day. One poor Spanish guy could literally hardly walk at all, despite the Scopolamine patch and ginger candies. I felt so bad for him. I think he ended up sitting somewhere in Mykonos Town while the rest of us did the walking tour. I also think we lost a bunch more who chose to simply return to the ship. With that I’ll sign off until next time and your next chapter of Always and Adventure with Steppe.

 

[Wood Nymph]

Wow! That voyage back to port sounds horrendous. It takes away from the amazing island tour that you had. It is a good thing your parents stayed behind.

 

[pkondz]

******* WARNING LONG POST FULL OF HISTORY, MYTHOLOGY, AND CAT PHOTOS*******

And vomiting... you forgot the vomiting...

I was in Greece for Pete’s sake- a place I may be lucky enough to only get to once in my lifetime.

You may be one up on me. I doubt I'll ever get there.

Mom and Dad chose to stay behind and enjoy the ship. Everyone vacations differently and in the end, after the day of touring, I’m glad they did. This was one of our more strenuous days that would have been harder for Mom. Plus she gets seasick pretty easily so...

I get it, but... at the same time... there are cheaper ways of not moving around? Ah well, as long as they had some nice views from the ship, then it's all good.

It was… It… It had seen better days. “Stuff” was piled up everywhere. There was an old, dilapidated vending machine with nothing in it in one corner and old paint cans, brushes caked with crusty paint, and tarps were piled in another.

Too bad you didn't take a photo. Would be interesting to see.

Okay it was frightening.

Dunno. I mean... I certainly wasn't there, but... I'd maybe think of that as... Functional? Work-like?
As long as it doesn't sink...

I do wonder if the ongoing archeology projects are secretly funded by the Delos Island Kitty Black Market.

Next time, photoshop out that dandelion and maybe photoshop in some tiny people by its paws.

(If you're interested in my most recent project stick around until the end. Or the next post, depending how many photos I can get away with.)

Mythology has it that because of Hera’s jealousy of Zeus and Leto, she ordered all lands to shun Leto, making it difficult for her to find a place to give birth.

Interesting. And in another mythology, another woman had trouble finding a place to give birth, 800 years later.

“Delos had a position as a holy sanctuary for a millennium before Olympian Greek mythology made it the birthplace of Apollo and Artemis.

Old!

Not surprisingly, both missions to the moon are named after these two.

Followed the last launch with great interest. Now just have to wait until 2024-2025 for the next one.

Historically, Delos has a very tumultuous past with the original occupants being displaced a multitude of times and the “collective” coffers being pilfered by Athenians on numerous occasions. My friends, there is nothing new under the sun. Their reason for removing the treasury? “For its safety and the safety of the residents.” Oddly, I’ve heard that before, even recently. History… seems to repeat itself ad nauseum.

Seems to be a pretty common refrain.

stone “couches”, arranged against the walls.

Stone... I sure hope they had some pillows or something otherwise that doesn't sound super comfy.

The coolest part is that when I read through this page, it has a photo of the EXACT same mosaic in Delos that I took!!! Maybe I missed my calling as a travel writer…

Point of order... I think at the moment you are a travel writer.

(Our guide told us that while the Romans made arches famous, the Greeks were using them for centuries before them.

Huh! Always thought the Romans invented that.

Delos had no reliable water source so relied on elaborately constructed cistern, drainage, and reservoir systems like this.)

I find that fascinating. I mean... you don't think (at least I don't) of ancient civilizations as that advanced

Very pretty mosaic.

That's the mosaic in the link you posted. Yup. You coulda written that article.

Those columns are much taller than I thought they'd be. Glad you have that person in there for scale.

Big!

“Greeks used theater and drama to teach morals and ethics to its citizens; it was meant to promote debate and discussion and was often interactive using question and answer format.” In fact, she told us, attendance of the theater was a required activity regularly, and every year there was an entire week dedicated to mandatory theater attendance which was performed by traveling philosophers and teachers. Of note, ALL parts were played ONLY by men, but all citizens came to watch- men, women, and especially children.

Interesting. Can you imagine having to attend plays or movies? Sign me up!

She went on to explain that the word “idiot” originally in Greek conferred insult to a person who had the right to vote but did not exercise it.

The last US election had a voter turnout of 67%....

This vast portico, originally lined with dozens of enormous columns, was the site of a giant statuary pissing war.

Subtle

But even more shocking, a fair amount of them were likenesses of themselves!

Wow

Everyone knew it was a competition to see who would bring what each year, and status was assigned accordingly. Is this sounding familiar?

Unfortunately

I’ll keep saying it, humans have evolved not one iota (hey, look at me using Greek words!);

Nicely said!

Anyway, the cats have been very busy in this section of the island for millennia knocking all of the statues off their pedestals when the caretakers weren’t looking.

French archeologists whose idea of archeology was rob and dismantle.

As was the British.

Our guide said she always gets a chuckle out of the fact that they got a sizable chunk all the way to the harbor only to discover there was zero way they could get it onto a boat or transport it without sinking any vessels they had.

Can you imagine???
<pant><gasp> "Well..." <gasp> "We finally got it down here... now what?"
"We leave it here!"

Only the pelvis and torso remain in its original place.

Did you see that?

It originally had 9-12 squatting, snarling marble guardian lions along the Sacred Way; one was removed and is presently situated over the main gate of the Venetian Arsenal.

Huh. Missed that when I was there.

they are affectionately known locally as the Melting Lions of Delos.

Can see why.

This super cool inscribed rock, maybe 5 feet square, featured some not-so-ancient graffiti of some familiar names of visitors. Ever hear of James A. Cook?

Cool!

She left us with the staggering statistic that only 30% of Delos has been excavated

Whoa... tons left to discover!

But our adventure quickly turned into a living, hellish, nightmare.

Uh, oh...

Old women were literally screaming

Within 10 minutes of the hour-long ordeal, you could literally see far too many folks turning green, sweating, and trying to hold in their bio-spills.

I don't think I'd enjoy this ride...

Our little ship was now a vomitorium.

Well said and...

A lady across from us had some orange-ginger essential oils that she started offering drops of. I can attest that it actually does work

The ginger or the essential oil?

(We use those in the recovery room fairly often and yes, studies and experience do show that they can work.)

Interesting. Huh.

When you see 20-foot walls of water, taller than the ship coming straight at you, that you cannot see the top of, hit the crest, then see them crashing against the window beside you, feel the freefall straight down on the other side… over and over, over for an hour…. you just want it to be over.

Holy. Crap.

You think I exaggerate. It was 100% not safe and I wondered if the crew were regretting that crossing.

Hmmm... And yet you made it, so clearly it wasn't "100%" not safe. I wonder what the crew actually thought?
"This isn't too bad"
"This is pretty bad but I've seen worse"
"Holy smokes, what have we done?"

No idea. I'm a landlubber.

Not soon enough to prevent a thorough desecration of the ship,

One poor Spanish guy could literally hardly walk at all

Poor guy. I'm sure he was glad to see Terra Firma again

With that I’ll sign off until next time and your next chapter of Always and Adventure with Steppe.

Can't wait!

 

[vamassey1]

I really enjoyed your walking tour with the details and photos. I'm very frustrated with the items taken from the island.

I did not enjoy your boat trip back. I would have been with the group who lost their cookies. I carry ginger chews with me, and I don't think they would have been enough for this voyage. So thankful y'all made it back in one piece.