Taking DSLRs into the Parks

[Disneymad]

Hee! If you want to like it, I'm not complaining, LOL. Thank you for being nice though

Funny thing is that out of all the things I think I was most inexperienced about with the fireworks was the timing of the shots. It never occurred to me until I actually started taking the shots that it would be so tricksy. I'd have some that were obviously started too early and not much had happened by the end or I'd leave too late and there was way too much going on. I cut myself some slack as it's the first time I'd ever worked with slow shutter speeds and movement but yeah, thinking is hard and stuff! Going to try with Wishes next time as I'm more familiar with the show it should make it a little easier to predict what's going to happen in advance.

I've seen the shutter release things too, was contemplating getting one as would probably help a lot and like you say, in the grand scheme of things, not overly expensive.

 

[starrysky]

Disneymad you need to get a job on the gadget show or smilar

DH said no way is he wearing that thing wrapped around any part of his body. I think the DSLR will be taken only on the fireworks and MNSSHP and that will be about it.

Great shot Dinseymad, thats about what I am aiming for as last years shots looked great on the camera but any bigger and the blurry castle etc just look horrible.

2tiggies he gets enough weird looks as it is being a 6foot 10 with out weird shapes in his pockets

 

[2Tiggies]

I've seen the shutter release things too, was contemplating getting one as would probably help a lot and like you say, in the grand scheme of things, not overly expensive.

I bought one from Amazon last night for under £4 including delivery.

It will help with camera shake, but not with timing. Don't feel alone - I have not mastered the timing thing either. I think there is too much going on with darkness and sudden bright lights. I suppose you just get to know your own camera and settings with time (and lots of deleted images ) I deleted almost every single one of my fireworks shots last year.

 

[2Tiggies]

Okay, so my camera arrived today. Battery in the chamber, but I can't release it by the press and release. It just stays in there so I can't charge it to test the camera. Any suggestions? It can only go in one way and certainly hasn't been wedged or put in the wrong way.

 

[Disneymad]

Did you figure out your battery problem Tiggs?

 

[2Tiggies]

Did you figure out your battery problem Tiggs?

Yes. A call finally to the Nikon support centre (after reading some trouble shooting advice by people who had drilled holes into the battery ...... ). It turned out that the lever on the side was not connecting. It could have just been how it was packed in the box but some jiggling about seemed to realign it and it popped out. The guy on the phone didn't even need me to tell him what was wrong. I said the battery wouldn't release, he asked which model and he told me what to do.

Did I tell you I am not the most patient person I immediately wanted to charge it to test it and of course I couldn't charge the battery if I couldn't get it out.

Now, just curious. Do you use a lens hood? I have a polarising filter but wondered if I should grab a hood as well. They only cost about £5 or so.

 

[Disneymad]

Ah phew, that's good to hear! And of course you wanted to charge it straight away - what's the point of getting new toys if you can't play with them RIGHT NOW!

I do use a lens hood, as it came with the lens. I don't use it that often tbh but when the sun is at a tricky angle it can help. I don't know if they're all the same but with mine you carry it full time on the front of the lens even when not in use (you just turn it round and screw it on 'backwards') so it's easy to just pop it on and off when you think you need a little help even if it's not very often.

I actually use a UV filter rather than a Polarising filter. Not sure if you're familiar with the difference but basically a UV filter helps with the haze you can get when taking pictures in bright sunlight, especially when they're far away. Digital Camera's cope with this better than ye olde film camera's but it does still help a bit. It's main purpose for me was that it has no effect on the lens when there's no UV which means I never ever have to take it off therefore it doubles up as something much more useful which is that it's a very cheap way (cost £9 from Amazon) to protect my lens from scratches in the event of a lens cap mishap.

A polarising filter helps counter glare and unwanted glare in bright light (so good for shots with water or glass) and can also help prevent blue skies getting a bit wishy washy. However because Polarising filters are reducing the light that enters the lens, it generally means longer exposures which can mean more risk of camera shake when taking pictures indoors in low light or at night so it's normally recommended you take them off when you're not actively needing it (just going by what I've read mind you, I've never actually used a Polarizing filter first hand).

 

[2Tiggies]

Thanks Disneymad. I knew they served different purposes. Yes, I realise I will need to take it off for indoor shots; I only bought it for outdoors in the bright sunlight. Apparently, according to those in the know, one of the 'flaws' of this camera is a tendency to slightly overexpose photos on auto . Not sure if there is any truth in that but it seemed like a good idea. As I said, for a fiver, it is hardly going to be a regrettable purchase. I will see if my brother has one to fit my lens and give it a go when I meet him tomorrow so he can examine (read admire ) my new toy. My superzoom camera takes great photos in low light and that is coming with me too so for indoor shots or ones in low light, yes the polariser will be taken off. I toyed with the idea of a UV filter but there is a lot of conflicting info with those pro and those against, regarding flare and it seems you really need to put out for a pricier one to avoid it being a big problem. Thanks for the heads up on the 2 way hood. I will see if there is one that will fit my lens. It can't be used with a polariser on this lens - you need to remove one to fit the other.

 

[Disneymad]

I think that the thing about UV filters is that the difference they make to shots is pretty limited and situational therefore they are just a glorified see through lens cap and not much good for anything else One day I will likely get a Polarizer too but I know what I'm like and with the best will in the world, I'm basically pretty lazy and/or forgetful which means half the time I'll forget to switch the filters anyhow I do think Polarizers are a sound investment though!

Bummer about the hood though, my lens can wear both filter and hood at once. If I had to choose one over the other I'd stick with the filter personally - not like you can't just shield the side of your lens with your palm if desperate.

 

[2Tiggies]

This is how this becomes an expensive hobby. They make sure that their brand is not compatable with any other My polariser was under £5 on eBay with free shipping, brand new and arrived the next day

 

[originalkk]

Apparently, according to those in the know, one of the 'flaws' of this camera is a tendency to slightly overexpose photos on auto .

I don't know what camera you have, but my D40 had a tendency to overexpose, so I just dialed in a bit of exposure compensation (under-expose) to offset this. I usually use program mode rather than full auto to give more control over the settings, but with the camera still able to make a pretty good stab at the exposure.

I also use a lens hood with my 18-200 lens, which is quite useful for cutting down on the stray reflections, together with a decent UV filter (mainly to protect the lens) and use the cheap Nikon wireless remote and a tripod for fireworks pictures, to avoid any shake with the longer exposures.

 

[Disneymad]

My polariser was under £5 on eBay with free shipping, brand new and arrived the next day

Oooh shiny bargain, nice one

 

[2Tiggies]

Oooh shiny bargain, nice one

I've done well with bargains this week. I got the Hama DSLR case 80% off on Play.com, the actual camera .... well I had a thread on the community board about it - the guy couldn't find the original box. He kept stalling and it seemed (from comments on various boards/Nikon forums) that he had maybe omitted to put a reserve on and was giving it away. He offered for me to cancel for a refund and I was told by several folk "No way! Take it". So I did, after I asked him to knock an extra £25 off the price and send it next day special delivery ..... well he did! Result: DSLR for the price of a P&S.

Then I put in a bid on an underwater camera case for my compact for the waterparks. Put in a starting bid at £2.50 and forgot about it. Until I was notified that I had won it at that price at 3 am!

So let me know if you are eyeing anything out at the mo This is my bargain week.

 

[2Tiggies]

I don't know what camera you have, but my D40 had a tendency to overexpose, so I just dialed in a bit of exposure compensation (under-expose) to offset this. I usually use program mode rather than full auto to give more control over the settings, but with the camera still able to make a pretty good stab at the exposure.

I also use a lens hood with my 18-200 lens, which is quite useful for cutting down on the stray reflections, together with a decent UV filter (mainly to protect the lens) and use the cheap Nikon wireless remote and a tripod for fireworks pictures, to avoid any shake with the longer exposures.

Thank you. Yes, it is a D40 so you are spot on with that. I was also advised to use P rather than auto or the little icons on the wheel as per your post so again, looks like you are right on the money with that one. I am going to play with it this weekend to get a feel of it. I may call on you for advice

 

[starrysky]

Glad you got it sorted 2tiggies.

I used to have a hood on my old SLR film camera and it was ok if it was direct over head sunlight but over all it was not all that noticeable in the photos if it was used or not. Loved that camera though it used to be my dads and boy was it heavy with the zoom lense on it even with a tripod it was hard to keep it level.

My DSLR is a fuji finepix S8100fd so the lenses are not changable it does have an 18x optical zoom and the settings on it are multiple.

If I do upgrade it would have to be the whole kit including lenses, filters etc right now for traveling my fuji is great.

 

[originalkk]

Thank you. Yes, it is a D40 so you are spot on with that. I was also advised to use P rather than auto or the little icons on the wheel as per your post so again, looks like you are right on the money with that one. I am going to play with it this weekend to get a feel of it. I may call on you for advice

No problem. If you haven't already, have a look at Ken Rockwell's on-line guide to the D40, although some of what he talks about should be taken with a pinch of salt, I found a lot of what he says in this guide to be very useful.

The D40 really is a great camera for the money. it also has a high flash sync speed, so you can use fill flash outside on bright days to remove the shadows you often get on faces etc when the sun is shining.

 

[2Tiggies]

Funny, I found Ken Rockwell's guide by 'accident' when I was searching for a user manual while waiting for the camera to arrive. I am finding his advice very useful. Of course there will be some advice in there based on personal preference.

I figured if the worst comes to the worst, I can always stick it on auto if I don't have time to get my head into gear. Although my brother has just said said he feels if I am using auto, I may as well just use my other camera

I will have to see closer to the time, but I really thought that this one would have at least SOME advantage over a P&S/superzoom, even if just used on P with minor manual adjustments.