Spreadsheet Warriors - how have you calculated the all in real cost?

Which is why some of us here choose not to consider that at all in our decisions

We figure that anything we get back is a bonus.

Obviously having to sell due to an emergency within the first few years is different than holding longer.

Just too many variables that can happen, especially with DVD changing rules.
Yep. If we argue for time of value money hoarding your cash in an investment account, why cant we calculate quality of life money too
 
The other thing is when many of us bought the T bill interest rates were around 1%, so it was not like you were losing much.

And oh yeah, I own DVC and a vacation condo in Waikiki, how much is the expense of freebies vacations for friends and families. Lets just say my daughter is doing well on her non investment.
 
The other thing is when many of us bought the T bill interest rates were around 1%, so it was not like you were losing much.

And oh yeah, I own DVC and a vacation condo in Waikiki, how much is the expense of freebies vacations for friends and families. Lets just say my daughter is doing well on her non investment.
Same
 

It seems that people generally severely underestimate the impact of time value of money.

Yes, in terms of absolute dollars, dues over the life of the contract will outweigh initial costs by a large margin, that's not the same in dollars today.

$43pp in dues in 2067 sounds crazy, but if you discount that back to today at 8.5% (opportunity cost of that money over the long term), that's only $1.40 today.

I just took a resale Copper Creek contract as an example:
  • Would cost ~$160pp to buy today including closing costs
  • Assuming dues grow at 4% each year (maybe they grow more in the 2-3% long term inflation), you'll pay ~$952pp in absolute dollar dues over the life of the contract, which seems like it's MASSIVE
  • But... if you discount all of those dues payments back to today at 8.5%, that $952 is only ~$160 today
So, accounting for TVM, you could generally expect that for a contract like that, it's about 50/50 upfront and dues, and you could estimate your total cost to be ~2x purchase price in today's dollars.

This is just looking from the cost side -- you can also model out all cash flow assumptions including cost avoidance of having to pay Disney directly for stays, rentals (in or out, depending on the year), etc. if you want to try and put a full "value" of ownership.
The PV of dues is quite sensitive to discount rate given the long time horizon. I would argue that discounting at 8.5% is too high, given DVC is more of a hedge against hotel rates and most people wouldn't otherwise invest the money in the market. They'd still spend it on vacations. That said, if you're literally selling stock to finance your DVC purchase 8.5% is probably a great assumption.

To your point, people do get quite dramatic about how much the dues "outweigh" the initial cost. If you like the contract, sure pay what you're comfortable with, but don't frame it like it doesn't matter because the dues are the real cost.
 
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Yep. If we argue for time of value money hoarding your cash in an investment account, why cant we calculate quality of life money too
Well, of course you should.

There are two parts to any purchase. First, what does it cost? That's just math, and as Mr. Incredible reminds us, math is math. TVOM is a mechanism that allows us to compare costs that are spread out in time to an equivalent cost in today's dollars as a single purchase. If we are considering alternatives, we can use this mechanism to compare the costs of those alternatives.

But, that's only one part. The other part is how do I value it? This is not just math, and unlike math it is going to be differnet for different people, becuase different people value different things. For example, I don't drink, and Disney's mocktail menus haven't caught up to the outside world. Because of that, I assign a lower value to the Dining Plan than someone who usually has a cocktail with dinner. And even that is probably too simple an example. A better one might be: I don't particularly care about being able to walk to a theme park, and I really hate the idea of packing and unpacking. So for me, a split stay sounds like torture, whereas for someone else it might be an ideal way to structure a vacation to walk almost everywhere.

I can also tell you that ignoring TVOM makes you a timeshare sales agent's best friend, becuase you are under-valuing the "cost" of the up-front purchase, and that's the part that generates commission and puts bread on that agent's table.

I have a great story of my brother doing a Hilton tour way back in the day. He has an MBA from Michgan; his wife has one from Notre Dame, but we love her anyway. The agent tried to use straight division to spread the initial payment over a longish ownership horizon, and my brother---a person who definitely understands TVOM---called him on it. The agent did it again about fifteen minutes later. It was at that point that my brother looked at the agent and said: "Look, we already talked about this, yet you keep doing it. So, you either assume I'm an idiot, or you actually are one. Either way, our conversation is done."

Boom: Sent directly to gifting to get him off the sales floor.

Now, it is true that you have to make some assumptions about the rate. But that assumption is not too difficult; it just depends on what, specifically, you are comparing. The details are left as an exercise to the reader.
 
They'd still spend it on vacations.
I usually see the long-term after-tax market return rate used when comparing two very specific scenarios. In Scenario One: I buy DVC, pay Dues, and take vacations by using those points to book lodging. In Scenario Two: I take the buy-in cost of the contract in Scenario One and invest it. In every modeled year, I add what Dues would have cost on that Contract to my (hypothetical) investment, assuming that the overall investment grows with the expected rate of return. Then I rent points from an owner for exactly the same stays that I contemplated in Scenario One, paying for them out of the investment account.

The question then is: Does my investment balance in Scenario Two ever run out? If so, how long does that take?

This is essentially the MouseSavers analysis. But, even then, they do not use the same rate for the investment return that they use to discount future dues or rental costs. The latter is, instead, based on a reasonable assumption about inflation.
 
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Well, of course you should.

There are two parts to any purchase. First, what does it cost? That's just math, and as Mr. Incredible reminds us, math is math. TVOM is a mechanism that allows us to compare costs that are spread out in time to an equivalent cost in today's dollars as a single purchase. If we are considering alternatives, we can use this mechanism to compare the costs of those alternatives.

But, that's only one part. The other part is how do I value it? This is not just math, and unlike math it is going to be differnet for different people, becuase different people value different things. For example, I don't drink, and Disney's mocktail menus haven't caught up to the outside world. Because of that, I assign a lower value to the Dining Plan than someone who usually has a cocktail with dinner. And even that is probably too simple an example. A better one might be: I don't particularly care about being able to walk to a theme park, and I really hate the idea of packing and unpacking. So for me, a split stay sounds like torture, whereas for someone else it might be an ideal way to structure a vacation to walk almost everywhere.

I can also tell you that ignoring TVOM makes you a timeshare sales agent's best friend, becuase you are under-valuing the "cost" of the up-front purchase, and that's the part that generates commission and puts bread on that agent's table.

I have a great story of my brother doing a Hilton tour way back in the day. He has an MBA from Michgan; his wife has one from Notre Dame, but we love her anyway. The agent tried to use straight division to spread the initial payment over a longish ownership horizon, and my brother---a person who definitely understands TVOM---called him on it. The agent did it again about fifteen minutes later. It was at that point that my brother looked at the agent and said: "Look, we already talked about this, yet you keep doing it. So, you either assume I'm an idiot, or you actually are one. Either way, our conversation is done."

Boom: Sent directly to gifting to get him off the sales floor.

Now, it is true that you have to make some assumptions about the rate. But that assumption is not too difficult; it just depends on what, specifically, you are comparing. The details are left as an exercise to the reader.
The first guide I talked to completely turned me off by repeating "only $xx.xx per month" after I told her many times I would not be financing. At some point it's frustrating when you feel like they are just giving canned robotic responses rather than actually listening to you.
 
I usually see the long-term after-tax market return rate used when comparing two very specific scenarios. In Scenario One: I buy DVC, pay Dues, and take vacations by using those points to book lodging. In Scenario Two: I take the buy-in cost of the contract in Scenario One and invest it. In every modeled year, I add what Dues would have cost on that Contract to my (hypothetical) investment, assuming that the overall investment grows with the expected rate of return. Then I rent points from an owner for exactly the same stays that I contemplated in Scenario One, paying for them out of the investment account.

The question then is: Does my investment balance in Scenario Two ever run out? If so, how long does that take?

This is essentially the MouseSavers analysis. But, even then, they do not use the same rate for the investment return that they use to discount future dues or rental costs. The latter is, instead, based on a reasonable assumption about inflation.
The problem I have with this as a justification for using a higher discount rate is that it assumes frequent withdrawals, which then would require a steady predictable market return, especially early on in the projection. Do you skip a vacation on a down market year? It would be nice to have that flexibility, but then we're not really comparing apples to apples.
 
And yes, there is uncertainty in both Scnearios, though more in Scenario 2. I mean, I suppose we could monte carlo it, but I'm not going to.
Always making me google stuff 😂

Monte Carlo refers to a method of using random sampling to solve mathematical or physical problems, often through computer simulations. It is named after the Monte Carlo Casino in Monaco, reflecting the element of chance involved in the technique.
 
"All models are wrong, but some are more wrong than others."

And yes, there is uncertainty in both Scnearios, though more in Scenario 2. I mean, I suppose we could monte carlo it, but I'm not going to.
It's a slippery slope. First you run an innocent monte carlo simulation, then you're neck-deep in mortality tables debating whether you'll still be around in year 30.

In all seriousness though, I just like to look at when I'll break even compared to 80% of rack rates. With resale I think we all come out far enough ahead that it's silly to get too bogged down in the nuances.
 
It seems that people generally severely underestimate the impact of time value of money.

Yes, in terms of absolute dollars, dues over the life of the contract will outweigh initial costs by a large margin, that's not the same in dollars today.

$43pp in dues in 2067 sounds crazy, but if you discount that back to today at 8.5% (opportunity cost of that money over the long term), that's only $1.40 today.

I just took a resale Copper Creek contract as an example:
  • Would cost ~$160pp to buy today including closing costs
  • Assuming dues grow at 4% each year (maybe they grow more in the 2-3% long term inflation), you'll pay ~$952pp in absolute dollar dues over the life of the contract, which seems like it's MASSIVE
  • But... if you discount all of those dues payments back to today at 8.5%, that $952 is only ~$160 today
So, accounting for TVM, you could generally expect that for a contract like that, it's about 50/50 upfront and dues, and you could estimate your total cost to be ~2x purchase price in today's dollars.

This is just looking from the cost side -- you can also model out all cash flow assumptions including cost avoidance of having to pay Disney directly for stays, rentals (in or out, depending on the year), etc. if you want to try and put a full "value" of ownership.

I agree you have to look at Time value of money, but I think 8.5% is way too high. It sets a pretty high hurdle rate. I use long term bond yields instead as a long term risk free rate. I don’t need my timeshare to perform like equity markets.

It doesn’t make logical sense to me to assume that CCV dues down the road are so much less than the value today in 2025. I understand the math, I just don’t agree it’s the right discount rate. I do like the debate and the fact that we can all approach this differently.
 
It's a slippery slope. First you run an innocent monte carlo simulation, then you're neck-deep in mortality tables debating whether you'll still be around in year 30.

In all seriousness though, I just like to look at when I'll break even compared to 80% of rack rates. With resale I think we all come out far enough ahead that it's silly to get too bogged down in the nuances.

That’s a good point too. I go conservative on the value per point I can get which is what I base my model on. I feel good that I can get $18 a point, $20 probably of value.
 
I ballparked the average yearly cost of my buy-in as very similar to my dues. When looking at the points needed nightly or per trip, I cost out my points at roughly double the dues. The dues increases will basically turn the calculation into that year’s dollar value, ~roughly at least.

My VGF direct was $161pp with 41 years left, roughly $4pp/py. With 3% to 3.5% compounded inflation over those 4 decades it averages out around $8pp/py, which is the cost of VGF dues this year. So I just consider each point we spend around $16 today. When my dues hit $10pp and $15pp, I’ll then consider each point spent around $20 and then $30.

VGF dues might be $10pp by 2030 for example, and that year I’ll cost them out around $20 each (which hopefully will feel like $16 does today). Then maybe sometime after 2035 dues might be $15pp, and I’ll cost them out around $30pp to ballpark how much we’re paying for the room.

That’s my plan at least :laughing: Purely an estimate. I prefer this over thinking my points only cost $12pp/py ($4pp buy-in + $8 dues) to use in 2025 and I also preferred averaging the cost yearly.

If we ever sold then I could go back and get a more accurate take on what each point cost us and that would need to be framed with TVM.
 















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