RoFR back??

So glad you said that,
because it really isn’t 15 or 20 minutes of my time that it takes to sign the paper work signed,
it is the entire process soup to nuts
it’s two or three months of not knowing…. Delays and waiting, kids asking when are we going to Disney….

it hard to book a vacation if you don‘t know if you own it
That’s fine but that’s not the value of your time that’s the value of your patience.

Should be max 35 days from making an offer to getting a ROFR letter from Disney.
 
That’s fine but that’s not the value of your time that’s the value of your patience.

Should be max 35 days from making an offer to getting a ROFR letter from Disney.
I decide what my time is worth not you…

ok, 35 days, Disney takes the contract and you start over…
so purchase number two gets through ROFR at 70 or 75 days….
depending on the month isn’t 75 days 2.5 months ?

I can do this all night
just like i said to your buddy Eric Cartman, just because you don’t like what I’m saying doesn’t make it wrong….

tIme will tell who is right, I frankly don’t care either way,
if you want to make low ball offers, more power to yea….

honestly, when and or if I buy resale, I will want to get the best deal I can….
however, my time has value,

if I’m buying something because I’m bored, I might throw out a lower offer and see what happens, once maybe twice…

if I’m buying because I have plans and want to move forward I’ll make a competitive and fair offer that I like will pass ROFR 95 percent of the time. Because at the end of the day if I pay an extra 10/point on a three hundred point contract, it really isn’t a lot of money.
 
Do you by any chance know if there is a thread that shows offers that were accepted and the accepted price?
 

I decide what my time is worth not you…
Again you’re defining “my time” in an extremely unconventional way. You can put a value on whatever you want, including your inability to wait patiently, if you’d like.
I can do this all night
just like i said to your buddy Eric Cartman, just because you don’t like what I’m saying doesn’t make it wrong….
Also true for you. It’s fine that you have a plan and want to pay more money to not have to occasionally have to do 15 minutes of work in order to save thousands of dollars! You can and should value things for you and for no one else. But don’t expect others to act that way en mass.
 
Those of you arguing back and forth - please just stop.

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https://www.wdwinfo.com/guidelines.htm/


Thank you.
 
Do you by any chance know if there is a thread that shows offers that were accepted and the accepted price?

Generally, I don't think rofr activity would directly have an impact on how much I'd be willing to pay. But if overall resale prices increase because others are paying more, I'd probably have no choice but to follow if it was something I really wanted...

I'd be more interested in he characteristics of the contracts that were taken at rofr. For example, was any stripped contract taken, or were they all loaded? If they were all loaded, then nobody should pay more for a stripped contract, even if the broker encourages then to do it "because of rofr activity". Similarly, did they take any subsidized contracts, or were they all unsubsidized? Does having prior year banked points on the contract (for which the buyer doesn't typically pay dues) increase the likelihood of a contract being taken?

DVC resale prices are still substantially higher than other timeshare systems. There is no way they can make 4x or 5x consistently from recycling rofr inventory like Marriott does. At current prices, it doesn't really move the needle that much. They also still have plenty of new inventory to sell, with more in the pipeline. So there may be some other common factor driving these decisions.
 
Generally, I don't think rofr activity would directly have an impact on how much I'd be willing to pay. But if overall resale prices increase because others are paying more, I'd probably have no choice but to follow if it was something I really wanted...

I'd be more interested in he characteristics of the contracts that were taken at rofr. For example, was any stripped contract taken, or were they all loaded? If they were all loaded, then nobody should pay more for a stripped contract, even if the broker encourages then to do it "because of rofr activity". Similarly, did they take any subsidized contracts, or were they all unsubsidized? Does having prior year banked points on the contract (for which the buyer doesn't typically pay dues) increase the likelihood of a contract being taken?

DVC resale prices are still substantially higher than other timeshare systems. There is no way they can make 4x or 5x consistently from recycling rofr inventory like Marriott does. At current prices, it doesn't really move the needle that much. They also still have plenty of new inventory to sell, with more in the pipeline. So there may be some other common factor driving these decisions.
Why would the seller pay for banked points if the buyer will be using them?
 
Why would the seller pay for banked points if the buyer will be using them?
I'm not sure I get what you are asking or referring to. Usually a stripped contract is sold at a discount over one with full points, or banked points. There are exceptions to that of course. Can you state again what you are asking? I may not grasp your question.
 
Why would the seller pay for banked points if the buyer will be using them?


From what I have seen on listings (in particular, the board sponsor), buyers are not asked to pay dues on banked 2022 points and that seems to be the norm rather than the exception. Of course everything is negotiable, and it may be already baked into the asking price.

Here is an example of a listing that shows this very clearly when you read it carefully. The prior year banked points are "free" with no dues. I have yet to see it listed otherwise with this broker.

(note to moderators: Intentionally picked listing under contract which is no longer on the market - posted screenshot to answer the question posed. I hope screenshot of inactive listing doesn't violate any rules. If it does, please remove)


1692896534298.png
 
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I'm not sure I get what you are asking or referring to. Usually a stripped contract is sold at a discount over one with full points, or banked points. There are exceptions to that of course. Can you state again what you are asking? I may not grasp your question.

I suspect that was referring to a particular sentence from my prior post (#349)
 
Correct, me if I'm wrong.....

But isn't customary for the seller to pay the dues on points that have been borrowed out of a contract.....
The buyer pays the dues on the points that are banked into a contract...

This that kinda the normal method?
 
Correct, me if I'm wrong.....

But isn't customary for the seller to pay the dues on points that have been borrowed out of a contract.....
The buyer pays the dues on the points that are banked into a contract...

This that kinda the normal method?
Usually the buyer only pays dues on current points, not on banked or borrowed.
 
Do you by any chance know if there is a thread that shows offers that were accepted and the accepted price?
I assume the reason you are asking is to determine what price you should offer? If that is the case there is a DVC ROFR! Site and pricing tool that can help. Developed by Galactic Reversal. See this thread for more details and visit the site.

https://www.disboards.com/threads/dvcrofr-com.3924179/

If you are looking for something else, can you elaborate there are great DVCers on this thread who can provide expert guidance.
 
It's common with resale market they just bake it into the price, but I've seen other brokers do it differently.
Yeah I've seen that. If you have a contract with full full banked points and current points, they only ask for dues on current points. But they list the contract as 2X points, and sometimes ask for a higher price per point.

But this varies, sometimes a double point contract is being sold cheaper than a stripped for no apparent reason other than the seller is probably more motivated. Also, while the convention may be that the buyer pays dues on current points and closing costs, all is negotiable.
 
Correct, me if I'm wrong.....

But isn't customary for the seller to pay the dues on points that have been borrowed out of a contract.....
The buyer pays the dues on the points that are banked into a contract...

This that kinda the normal method?

There are lots of ways to do it…but resale usually does ask for buyer to pay for dues for current UY points…except it is all negotiable.

When I sold, I never asked for dues if selling in the fall, regardless of points…when I bought, I only offered full dues if buying in first 4 months…after that is was split,,,and in the fall, asked seller to pay all.
 















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