Resale BWV

[poohbear158]

Considering the recent price increase, what is a good price per point for BWV? Looking to purchase around 175-200. I looked at the ROFR thread, but not too many BWV's there and I believe those were before the increase. I seen one contract on resale for 200 points 0 points for 2017, full 2018... just not sure about what to offer.

 

[iheartglaciers]

Even though the BWVs on the ROFR thread are pre-increase, I'd still make an offer based off of that data. I think the price increase hasn't affected BWV as much anyway, and BWV contracts aren't moving as fast as they were in the fall.

It also depends how much you want this particular contract. If it's the perfect UY and size, especially for a less common UY, you might be willing to pay a little bit more. If you don't need the contract right away, you might be willing to offer a lower price and wait for a seller who will accept it.

When I was looking in the fall, I didn’t want to pay over $100/pt for BWV, expiring in 2024, unless it was loaded (had at least 2017 points) and eventually found a double loaded contract for $115/pt in the UY I wanted (which wasn't one of the more common ones). I generally think you can get a good deal if you're willing to wait and keep putting in offers.

 

[Smile4Me]

We just closed on a resale BWV contract. My advice is figure out what you want for points and what you are willing to spend on them. Then make the offer from there. We made an offer that we felt was reasonable based on other numbers we had seen and the buyers countered. We countered their counter and they accepted. You never know what the buyer's situation is or how motivated they are to unload the contract!

 

[Debbie Jean]

Even though the BWVs on the ROFR thread are pre-increase, I'd still make an offer based off of that data. I think the price increase hasn't affected BWV as much anyway, and BWV contracts aren't moving as fast as they were in the fall.

It also depends how much you want this particular contract. If it's the perfect UY and size, especially for a less common UY, you might be willing to pay a little bit more. If you don't need the contract right away, you might be willing to offer a lower price and wait for a seller who will accept it.

When I was looking in the fall, I wasn't willing to pay over $100/pt for a 2024 expiring resort unless it was loaded (had at least 2017 points) and eventually found a double loaded contract for $115/pt in the UY I wanted (which wasn't one of the more common ones). I generally think you can get a good deal if you're willing to wait and keep putting in offers.

I believe you meant 2042 expiring ... different conversation all together if it was 2024!

 

[iheartglaciers]

I believe you meant 2042 expiring ... different conversation all together if it was 2024!

Haha yes!!!

 

[gharter]

i would look at multiple online listings. There is a significant variation in price from broker to broker. Be sure to factor if it is loaded with points or stripped. Often the more points that you are purchasing, the price per point may be slightly lower. Smaller contracts seem to bring a premium in cost.
Don't be afraid to try and negotiate the price. Some will deal, some won't. figure out what you are willing to pay and go from there.
Good luck. we love staying at BWV for Food and wine in the fall.

 

[Jason@dvcstore]

Don't be afraid to try and negotiate the price. Some will deal, some won't. figure out what you are willing to pay and go from there.

Good advice. Feel free to make offers. We will reach out to the seller and present it and the seller will either accept, counter or be firm at their price. Of course, not all buyers and sellers come together.

 

[ziravan]

My guess is that most sellers will be willing to play ball so long as you don’t lowball so much that it’s not worth their time. That’s not to say that they’ll lower their price, just that they’ll counter you if you offer low, even if the counter is full price.

So. It’s worth starting lower.

I’d say 5-10/point lower.

Let’s say that a seller lists for 100 but really wants at least 95. If you offer 97, they got more than they were willing to accept. Deal.

If you offer 90, they probably aren’t going to walk away from an offer only 5 off their minimum. They’ll probably counter 95. Deal. And you didn’t leave any money on the table.

If you offer 90 and 100 is in fact the minimum they’ll accept, they might not counter an offer 10 below their minimum. So. If no response, you can always reoffer 95. Or shop around.

My experience resale is I have two resale contracts. On the first, I offered $2/point below asking and it was accepted. On the 2nd, I offered $5/point below, and it was accepted.

If I ever bought a third, I’d start $7-10 below. The worst that can happen is that you won’t have a deal. But since you don’t have one now, no harm, no foul. You aren’t any worse off than you were. The best that could happen is that you can get a good/great deal without leaving money on the table. And since you’re looking at 200 points, if you can land a contract 5-10 per point lower, you’re talking $1-2 grand. That would be worth my time.

 

[iheartglaciers]

Agree with @ziravan I think it all comes down to what you want to pay and how badly you want the contract.

I basically ran numbers and decided the max I wanted to pay, with some variation for stripped/loaded.

For my BCV contract, I offered $15 below asking because that was what my max was and it was accepted without counter! I was surprised since it was listed below some of the insane prices I’d seen at the time, especially for a smaller contract.

BWV I offered $10 below asking and the seller countered with $5 below asking. Maybe I could’ve countered back for another $2 or so, but it was double loaded, already priced $5 lower than other contracts, and was the UY I wanted.

Poly I offered $4 below asking because it hit my target price, but since it was loaded and the exact UY I wanted, I would’ve bought it at asking since it was already lower than most listings. The offer was accepted without counter.

But along the way I bid on a bunch of other contracts where the seller wouldn’t go below $5 of asking price... or even $2! If you’re willing to keep bidding and don’t need a contract right away, I think you’ll find a seller willing to negotiate more than average.

 

[Best Aunt]

From the perspective of a seller: I priced high. My theory was that I would wait a little while (maybe a week or 10 days) and if I didn't find a buyer, I would drop the price. If someone had offered me less than the listing price during that time period, I would have rejected the offer without countering. But for both of my sales, I got full asking price the same day I listed. So when a seller receives an offer which is less than full asking price, it is possible that for some sellers, a factor in their decision is the length of time since the contract was listed.

The lovely people at The Timeshare Store might say that my way of thinking is not common. I don't know.

 

[iheartglaciers]

From the perspective of a seller: I priced high. My theory was that I would wait a little while (maybe a week or 10 days) and if I didn't find a buyer, I would drop the price. If someone had offered me less than the listing price during that time period, I would have rejected the offer without countering. But for both of my sales, I got full asking price the same day I listed. So when a seller receives an offer which is less than full asking price, it is possible that for some sellers, a factor in their decision is the length of time since the contract was listed.

The lovely people at The Timeshare Store might say that my way of thinking is not common. I don't know.

I'd agree with this... certainly if a contract has been sitting for a bit, you have way more bargaining power. For a seller, it makes sense to stick to your asking price for the first few days if you don't need to sell immediately. Though in my experience bidding, the majority of sellers will negotiate even on the first day. But motivation of the seller and the advice they got prior to listing will vary a lot. If you wait to put in an offer, most likely you'll loose the contract if you really want it.

 

[dancermommy1]

I just bought BWV. It was loaded up with points from 16,17,18, and of course 19. I offered 5 below asking and it was immediately accepted. It was higher than some, but lower than others. Given that direct is $182, I was happy.

 

[PatMcDuck]

I just sold a contract and bought one. For the sale, I listed at $134 (200@ BCV, only 41 points coming in June) 2018, so 3/4 stripped more or less. I was suggested to list at $135, but I said $134. I got an offer for $125, quickly. I countered at $130. I would not have taken less than that. (Maybe I could have gotten the $134)

I also just bought a contract at WL-BR. This one was loaded. Again, 200 points, but coming with all of 17, 18 etc points. Listed at $100, which considering that it was loaded, seemed pretty fair to me. I really felt I need to move quickly. BUT I STILL offered $95, and it was accepted.

Both currently are in the ROFR part of the process. I think it is good to realize that when the realtor sites keep up the contract listings, they leave the original ask price up there, they do not update it to the ACTUAL price agreed upon. For this reason, the ROFR list here on DIS, is quite an interesting tool to use when deciding upon a price. (Also, I would have paid a little more if I was trying to match up use years)

 

[mbwhitti]

I just bought BWV. It was loaded up with points from 16,17,18, and of course 19. I offered 5 below asking and it was immediately accepted. It was higher than some, but lower than others. Given that direct is $182, I was happy.

I am about to close on a similar contract and also offered $5 below asking and it was accepted! I thought it was a fair price for the current listings and direct pricing as well!

 

[Shellyred8]

DVC is similar to other real estate transactions in that price negotiations are common. However, some sellers are more likely to negotiate than others. It all depends on their situations.

For us, we offered $10 below asking for a VWL contract and the seller flat out said no and refused to entertain any other offers from us. We then put in an offer on a BLT contract that was $10 below asking price and the sellers countered at $8 below asking price and we accepted.

So, it's not so much the location that will dictate how much negotiation room you have, it's the seller.

I would still use the ROFR thread here as a good starting point for what to offer.

Good luck!!