Photo Sharing: Ultra Wide Angle

[Scottwdw]

thanks for that link! So is center focusing a bad thing if it just scenery and there isn't really anything up front to focus on?

Scenery is a good thing but vastly improved with a foreground subject to lead people into the scene. You still need to focus about 1/3 into the frame to get everything in focus (called hyperfocal distance).

 

[mrcricket]

I have a quick question. I was able to get out a little yesterday to take a few pics finally with my Tokina. I have a question about focus. I'm not use to shooting scenery so I'm a little lost. I have no idea what I should be focusing on. I was taking a few pics of some old equipment at a coal site near my house. (i live in northeastern PA coal country. we have all kinds of huge old equipment that would love the attention). An example would be say the bench above that U took. were u focusing on the arm rest closest in the pic or did u just center focus on the pic? I was confused when I was real close of an old trunk. should i be focusing on the closest part of it to me or the center of the pic? i was shooting at between f8-f11. or is it up to me on how creative i would want to be. my mind is telling me focus on the closest thing in the frame cause ur eye will be drawn here first, but i might be wrong?

also, is their a sweet f stop for sharpness on the is lens? meaning try to stick between say f8-f11 but after that sharpness starts to fall off? any advice u can give me there?

i had fun yesterday. it was a pretty overcast day but i think i got some good pics.

thanks alot,
jim

Jim,

Everything Scott said is dead on. I don't have my info on the shots you asked about, because I'm at work. I think I shot the bench shot at around f8 and I did focus on the front of the bench. But for scenery, I usually focus about a third of the way in just as Scott said he does. The Tokina is an extremely sharp lens with a fabulous depth of field. If you want sharp all the way through, I'd be at f11 just to be safe. Of course depending on the shot, a tripod is always a good thing.

Good luck with your new lens. I love mine and I'm looking forward to going to Arkansas in a few weeks and trying it out with lake shots and historic Hot Springs. An UWA just makes landscapes awesome.

 

[FFToolboxGuy]

Definitely looking to join the UWA club; just need to save up the money. I'm leaning towards the Tokina 11-16mm f/2.8 ($599 @ B&H) after looking at the photos posted in this thread.

I could save some money by getting the Sigma 10-20mm f/4-5.6 ($462 on Amazon), but am concerned at f/4 vs. f/2.8. I'm worried that it won't take as good evening outdoor shots that I'm try to get. Any advice?

Thanks,
Jeff

 

[jimim]

Jim,

Everything Scott said is dead on. I don't have my info on the shots you asked about, because I'm at work. I think I shot the bench shot at around f8 and I did focus on the front of the bench. But for scenery, I usually focus about a third of the way in just as Scott said he does. The Tokina is an extremely sharp lens with a fabulous depth of field. If you want sharp all the way through, I'd be at f11 just to be safe. Of course depending on the shot, a tripod is always a good thing.

Good luck with your new lens. I love mine and I'm looking forward to going to Arkansas in a few weeks and trying it out with lake shots and historic Hot Springs. An UWA just makes landscapes awesome.

This if both U and Scott. . .

thanks for the info to both of u. So I shouldn't get all caught up in the whole depth of field charts. I read a little today during lunch when I was by myself. I remember reading about this stuff a while ago and said it was over my head but today I processed cause I had some time.

Should I bother with an app for this while out and about?

http://www.dofmaster.com/

Or just go by what u all are saying with the 1/3 rule? and when u guys say 1/3 of the way into the scene. you are saying a 1/3 of hat i am seeing in the viewfinder. sorry if that's a really dumb question but didn't know if u guys were talking when lens distance or what.

the DOFmaster app seems like it would be nice to have but I doubt if I would ever be right with my distances. I can manage 20 feet or so in estimating but anything over that would be a bet at most.

thanks again for the great info today!

jimi

i'll try to get some out of the camera pics up so u all can rip em apart if that's ok. i don't mind! i have to get a site setup though to link from. i guess i can use my mpix account?

on another note i did get some awesome shots of my daughter with my 17-50mm 2.8 canon. i love that lens.

 

[FFToolboxGuy]

Or just go by what u all are saying with the 1/3 rule? and when u guys say 1/3 of the way into the scene. you are saying a 1/3 of hat i am seeing in the viewfinder. sorry if that's a really dumb question but didn't know if u guys were talking when lens distance or what.

I didn't see your earlier question, but I'm guessing they're referring to the rule of thirds, which is a method of composing your photo:
http://www.digital-photography-school.com/rule-of-thirds

Good luck,
Jeff

 

[cpbjgc]

As Scott noted in his message, the one-third he was referring to is the hyperfocal distance. Actually, if you check the DOFMaster website, they have the definition of hyperfocal distance and their program will cacluate it for you.

I have the DOFMaster App on my IPod Touch and its very good, but if you were only getting the DOFMaster app for use with a UWA lens, I would save my $1.99. If you run some sample calculations, you will see that even at around F4 or F5.6 there is a pretty huge depth of field. Where that App really shines is when using longer lenses wide open where there is a really shallow depth of field. It can be very helpful for helping work out selective focus situations.

 

[jimim]

I didn't see your earlier question, but I'm guessing they're referring to the rule of thirds, which is a method of composing your photo:
http://www.digital-photography-school.com/rule-of-thirds

Good luck,
Jeff

No it was about focusing 1/3 into the frame of the picture. i just needed some clarification on what scott and mrcricket meant.

thanks for that other link though. i appreciate it.

jim

 

[jimim]

As Scott noted in his message, the one-third he was referring to is the hyperfocal distance. Actually, if you check the DOFMaster website, they have the definition of hyperfocal distance and their program will cacluate it for you.

I have the DOFMaster App on my IPod Touch and its very good, but if you were only getting the DOFMaster app for use with a UWA lens, I would save my $1.99. If you run some sample calculations, you will see that even at around F4 or F5.6 there is a pretty huge depth of field. Where that App really shines is when using longer lenses wide open where there is a really shallow depth of field. It can be very helpful for helping work out selective focus situations.

thanks for the info. i was reading on DOFmaster yesterday like I was saying and it was alot to take in. I saw the app for the iDevices. I didn't know if it would be useful or if I should just use 1/3 estimate that the 3 of u guys were referring to.

i guess my question is it worth the time to use the app and try to get a good distance estimate of what is calculated or just go 1/3 into the frame and call it a day?

jim

 

[Scottwdw]

thanks for the info. i was reading on DOFmaster yesterday like I was saying and it was alot to take in. I saw the app for the iDevices. I didn't know if it would be useful or if I should just use 1/3 estimate that the 3 of u guys were referring to.

i guess my question is it worth the time to use the app and try to get a good distance estimate of what is calculated or just go 1/3 into the frame and call it a day?

jim

You'll love this answer: It depends. If you have the time and are a good judge of distance, the small amount of money invested in the app might be what you need. For me, I do fine (especially with a UWA) by estimating the 1/3rd in distance. Back in the day when lenses had distance markings, you could manually set the focus manually at its hyperfocal setting. I only have one lens currently I can do that with, the Nikon 50mm f/1.8.

 

[BigDaddyWill]

Got my Tokina 12mm-24mm last week and finally today is not overcast, lol.
An early morning shot of the Cincinnati skyline:

Have along way to go to learn the new camera's controls, but at the moment am concentrating on getting a feel for the lens...it's sweet.

 

[cpbjgc]

thanks for the info. i was reading on DOFmaster yesterday like I was saying and it was alot to take in. I saw the app for the iDevices. I didn't know if it would be useful or if I should just use 1/3 estimate that the 3 of u guys were referring to.

i guess my question is it worth the time to use the app and try to get a good distance estimate of what is calculated or just go 1/3 into the frame and call it a day?

jim

I agree with the "depends" answer. If you are mostly shooting landscapes and sweeping vistas, it likely will not help much (other than giving you an aid to understand why the image is so sharp). If you are using the lens for close up shooting, such as indoors where the subjects are quite close, the app will help you understand what will be in focus and what will be OOF. Like I said, if you have some other longer lenses, the app can be very useful, so keep that in mind as well when deciding to buy it. I see from an earlier post you have a 17-50 F2.8. DOFMaster can be very useful with that lens.

Can't wait to see some pics!

 

[jimim]

You'll love this answer: It depends. If you have the time and are a good judge of distance, the small amount of money invested in the app might be what you need. For me, I do fine (especially with a UWA) by estimating the 1/3rd in distance. Back in the day when lenses had distance markings, you could manually set the focus manually at its hyperfocal setting. I only have one lens currently I can do that with, the Nikon 50mm f/1.8.

Scott,

I do love the answer, but I hear what U are saying and agree with it. I like the app. I played with the web mobile version. For the 2 dollars not having to use the mobile safari version is worth the price also.

thanks for that!

jimi

 

[jimim]

I agree with the "depends" answer. If you are mostly shooting landscapes and sweeping vistas, it likely will not help much (other than giving you an aid to understand why the image is so sharp). If you are using the lens for close up shooting, such as indoors where the subjects are quite close, the app will help you understand what will be in focus and what will be OOF. Like I said, if you have some other longer lenses, the app can be very useful, so keep that in mind as well when deciding to buy it. I see from an earlier post you have a 17-50 F2.8. DOFMaster can be very useful with that lens.

Can't wait to see some pics!

Ok see. . . i never thought about using it for other that scenery. when u say indoors what kind of examples are u talking about? can i use this for portraits also? usually when I shoot say my kid or a family pic I focus on eyes for a single person and for 2 or 3 people i try to make sure everyone is on the same plane and focus on the center of the faces or as best as i can.

am i totally off here? any other advice?

sorry if I'm going off topic here. i can start a new thread if need be.

i'm learning alot from u guys. i appreciate it so much!

Thanks!

jimi

 

[cpbjgc]

You can use the Ultra-wides for portraits and close ups if you keep in mind the distortion the lens will have (part of its charm). I have some taken with my Tokina 11-16, but not handy. These are a few at 17mm using my Sigma 17-70 lens (I believe 17 still counts as UWA). Remember, first rule of photography is it is ok to break the rules!

 

[jimim]

You can use the Ultra-wides for portraits and close ups if you keep in mind the distortion the lens will have (part of its charm). I have some taken with my Tokina 11-16, but not handy. These are a few at 17mm using my Sigma 17-70 lens (I believe 17 still counts as UWA). Remember, first rule of photography is it is ok to break the rules!

Great pics! So may I ask when u were focusing for the one of your wife and child (i assume) where were u focusing? in the middle of their faces, on one vs the other, or were u going by the 1/3 distance in rule we spoke of? also the one of the pumpkin. . . i would assume face? eyes if possible?

thanks for all the great info!

jimi

 

[jimim]

ok i'm going to try and post one pic to see if it works.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/60184887@N08/5489811411


IMG_3806 by jimim, on Flickr

the image is saved as a 1024x683 jpg

it is straight off the camera with no adjustments in photoshop or lightroom
my 7d has light optimizer set to standard
saturation, contrast is dialed into 0

shot in AV
125 f8.0
iso100
12mm focal length

i am using the zone focusing on the 7d. i have the center focus pointed selected and the camera picked which to focus from there for those familiar with how the 7d works.

thanks alot,
jimi

so. . .feel free to let me know what i did wrong or right. i can take anything u guys throw at me. i want to learn. i like to learn!

 

[cpbjgc]

Great pics! So may I ask when u were focusing for the one of your wife and child (i assume) where were u focusing? in the middle of their faces, on one vs the other, or were u going by the 1/3 distance in rule we spoke of? also the one of the pumpkin. . . i would assume face? eyes if possible?

thanks for all the great info!

jimi

I always try to focus on the eyes for people pics. I tend to lock focus and recompose. Both those shots had a higher F stop (5.6 for my son with the pumpkin and F8 for my wife and daughter) so I would not need to worry how precise I was in locking focus. When shooting my son I usually need to take him by surprise to get a smile, so I cannot be too worried if I get his nose or eyes. I would only use the 1/3 concept on a landscape type shot, myself.

 

[cpbjgc]

ok i'm going to try and post one pic to see if it works.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/60184887@N08/5489811411


IMG_3806 by jimim, on Flickr

the image is saved as a 1024x683 jpg

it is straight off the camera with no adjustments in photoshop or lightroom
my 7d has light optimizer set to standard
saturation, contrast is dialed into 0

shot in AV
125 f8.0
iso100
12mm focal length

i am using the zone focusing on the 7d. i have the center focus pointed selected and the camera picked which to focus from there for those familiar with how the 7d works.

thanks alot,
jimi

so. . .feel free to let me know what i did wrong or right. i can take anything u guys throw at me. i want to learn. i like to learn!

I like the image - it makes good use of the distortion you get with the UWA lens. The only thing that bothers me is the bit of bumper in the lower right corner. It seems to just be floating there and distracts my eye a bit.

 

[jimim]

I always try to focus on the eyes for people pics. I tend to lock focus and recompose. Both those shots had a higher F stop (5.6 for my son with the pumpkin and F8 for my wife and daughter) so I would not need to worry how precise I was in locking focus. When shooting my son I usually need to take him by surprise to get a smile, so I cannot be too worried if I get his nose or eyes. I would only use the 1/3 concept on a landscape type shot, myself.

ok makes sense. i figured that's what u meant about the 1/3 concept. at least i am somewhat on the right track!

thanks you for that info!

jim

 

[jimim]

I like the image - it makes good use of the distortion you get with the UWA lens. The only thing that bothers me is the bit of bumper in the lower right corner. It seems to just be floating there and distracts my eye a bit.

oh ya i never noticed that. see i got that close cause when i was wider the sun came pouring in from the left. i have a wider shot (still without all the bumper) but it had some bad sun glare.

all in all is it exposed properly? i think it's pretty sharp as is?

i'll throw some more up tonight when i have the time.

jimi