Need help with taking pictures!

[Debs5angels]

I have a Canon Digital Rebel XTi. I only know how to use the auto mode on the camera. If someone tries to tell me about ISO or apreture(sp?) you might as well talk another language to me. When I try to take a picture of the castle at night or fireworks they never seem to come out. They usually come out blurry or dark.

Is there any way to get a good shot of both of those things on auto mode? Also does anyone have any suggestions on what to do to protect the camera when a sudden rain storm or shows that spray water at you? I leave for Disney on Aug. 16th so I was looking for any help possable. Thanks in advance!

 

[DizneyNutz]

Unfortunately you have purchased a camera that is really not designed to be used in AUTO mode much. It is very capable of capturing the photos you desire, but you really are hindering yourself by not getting familiar with setting the ISO, Shutter, Aperature, etc. I understand that you really are limited in time to experiment, but look over the manual and figure out how to set the ISO, shutter and aperature. For fireworks try starting at ISO 100, set Aperature to f/11 and read how to set your shutter on bulb mode. Then the shutter will stay open as long as you hold the button down allowing you to anticipate the burst and catch the entire trail. They make cards with different photo shooting situations that will give you suggestions of settings for the different shots, but you will still need to be familiar with making the settings adjustments. Sorry not much help I know!

 

[handicap18]

When you use AUTO and want to take the results that you want (in this situation) you will unfortunatly not get them if you are holding the camera in your hand.

You will have a much better chance at good results if you use a tripod or place the camera on top of a trash can. I would guess that the camera is sensing there is not a lot of light and therefor will need to choose a long shutter speed. Anything longer than 1/30th of a second and you will get blury pictures from the natural shake of your hands.

You will get even better results if you take some time and learn at least some of the basics of operating an SLR camera.

ISO is film speed. If you ever had a film camera you bought different speeds 200, 400, 800 for example. With a digital SLR you can make these changes yourself right in the camera. Bright sunny days you can use ISO200, for sporting events you might want 400 or 800. At night for handheld shots you'll want 800 or 1600 if you don't use a tripod.

Aperture (commonly referred to as f/stops) is the hole in the lens that changes in size to let light into the camera. Works just like the pupils of your eyes. The are listed in fraction form so the bigger number is actually a smaller size, ie: 1/4th is bigger than 1/8th, therefor f/4 is wider than f/8. Like your pupils, when its bright outside the hole is smaller, lots of light available so we don't need a big hole. Go inside or late at night outside and your pupils open wide to let as much light as possible so you can see.

Shutter speed is the the amount of time the little door stays open to let the light coming in through the lens hit the sensor (or in the old days frame of film). They are listed in seconds, or more commonly fractions of a second. 1/60th, 1/250th etc. That little door is what opens when you press the button on the top of the camera when you want to take the picture. The faster the shutter the less light that is let in.

These 3 things work together to produce the image that is captured by the sensor or film in your camera.

The less light that is available, the longer the shutter will need to stay open and the wider the aperture will need to be.

"Understanding Exposure" by Bryan Peterson is a good book to get for yourself to learn the "foreign language" of photography. If you venture to another country you'll want to get yourself a book that translates so you can communicate. Thats a pretty expensive camera you have and it certainly can take great pictures. But you do need to speak the language a little bit to get the most out of it.

 

[DizneyNutz]

http://www.cameratown.com/guides/iso.cfm
http://www.cameratown.com/guides/tutorial_listing.cfm/hurl/id|7

These may not help much on your trip so close, but may help you for future reference. You also did not mention what lens you will be using on the camera, which helps in making the right decisions for shots I realize this is a TON of info to digest in such a short time, but this camera is designed to be be adjusted for the shot (like the 35mm film camera) more often than a regular point and shoot camera where you have a certain setting for a particular setting.

 

[Debs5angels]

I know this may be a stupid question but here goes. I learned how to change all these settings, but can you PLEASE tell me what settings to put each one of these on? Sorry to be such a pain! Thanks again for all your help!

P.S. Will the settings that I use for the fireworks be the same as the settings I would use to take pictures of the castle at night or Spectro Magic?

 

[jenseib]

There is really no set setting for any picture. You need to constantly adjust settinga for each picture you take. You most likely won't get a good shot of the castle this trip, since you are so unfamiliar with the concepts of photography. I would suggest that you mostly use your auto mode this trip, so at least most of your pictures come out nice. And then maybe try a few manual ones for the night pictures. With night pictures you need to hold it completely still for long periods, so you need to rest it on something or have a tripod to get ther best results. I highly recomend you read the manual so you know how to work the manual settings, and then maybe play with it at home at night to see. I have had my Rebel for a few months and even on a tripod haven't gotten a great night picture yet. I am still learning alot myself.
I also suggest getting a book form the library or wherever on Digital photography and/SLR's.

You usually want a higher ISO for night pictures as well, but then it depends what you are photographing as well.

 

[handicap18]

I know this may be a stupid question but here goes. I learned how to change all these settings, but can you PLEASE tell me what settings to put each one of these on? Sorry to be such a pain! Thanks again for all your help!

P.S. Will the settings that I use for the fireworks be the same as the settings I would use to take pictures of the castle at night or Spectro Magic?

Are you bringing a tripod?

This will make a BIG difference on which settings you'll need to use (see bold's above).

Also what lens do you have. This will make a difference on what settings you'll use for Spectro. I'm guessing you have just the kit lens (which is fine) but different lenses will make a difference.

 

[Debs5angels]

I don't have a tripod can you tell me the setting for both PLEASE.
I will be using a wide angle lens 28-135. Thanks again for all your help I really appreciate it.

Are you bringing a tripod?

This will make a BIG difference on which settings you'll need to use (see bold's above).

Also what lens do you have. This will make a difference on what settings you'll use for Spectro. I'm guessing you have just the kit lens (which is fine) but different lenses will make a difference.

 

[jenseib]

I don't have a tripod can you tell me the setting for both PLEASE.
I will be using a wide angle lens 28-135. Thanks again for all your help I really appreciate it.

I don't think you read our former posts....There is NO set setting. You have to learn how to use it and then make your settings according to the light and surroundings. If you read your manual, you will learn how to adjust the settings and then you can tell what would work with your camera and lens. But sometimes you jsut have to do trial and error as well. And without a tripod, you DEFINATELY need to use something to set your camera on. You will need a slow shutter speed too. That will make any movement blurr the picture, thus the need for a tripod..

 

[handicap18]

IMO, and contrary to what Jen is saying, there are some general settings you can use.

Without a tripod to take pictures of the castle at night in your situation I would put the camera in M (manual) mode. Set your ISO to 1600 (though I think the XTi can go up to 3200, if so make it 3200), I would put the lens in its widest focal length (in your case 28mm) and then don't use the zoom. Use your feet to move closer or further away (if you zoom the lens instead, your aperture will get smaller, this is typical of most zoom lenses). Set your Aperture (f/stop) to f/3.5 (which I believe is the widest that lens will go). For shutter speed, hmmm, I would wait for the brighest colors to illuminate the castle and start with 1/30th. Now, you lucked out a bit as this lens does have IS so you can probably get away with handholding the lens down to about 1/10th or 1/8th of a second. This is where your going to have to play around with the shutter speed. See what works for you. Technique is going to play a big part. Meaning how you hold the lens and also how steady your hands are. Brace yourself against something if you can. If not then at least stand with one foot in front of the other, hold the camera tightly against your eye and while holding your breath gently press the shutter button. I know it may sound funny that you should hold your breath, but when your dealing with shutter speeds as slow as this ANY movement can creat a blury picture.

You can use the same settings for fireworks, however your timing has to come into play here. With a tripod you can leave the shutter open for 4 or 5 seconds and get the nice big long streaks along with the great big colorful bursts. Handheld you have to decide which you want. Some streaks or some of the big colorful bursts.


For SpectoMagic. This is tough. This is one of if not the hardest subject to photograph in Disney. A moving subject with not a lot of light at night. VERY difficult. You can use a flash, but that will drown out many of the colorful lights. Again, use the highest possible ISO (1600 or 3200), widest possible aperture (f/3.5), but to stop the movement of the subject you'll need at least a 1/80th shutter speed. If timing is right, maybe 1/60th, but that is about it. Anything slower and the movement of the subject will creat a blur. There is an exposure compensation button somewhere on the camera (will say EV or EC and have a +/- sign). You can use this and set it to -1 to help. IF you do use this, then change from M to Tv (shutter priority) and choose 1/60th to start, then go up a bit from there (no faster than 1/100th). Keep your ISO at 1600 or 3200 and the lens at 28mm. The camera will then choose f/3.5 for you as that is the widest aperture.

Keep in mind that all these are suggestions and a starting point. You can change them a bit based on the results you are getting.

If you really want to improve your SpectoMagic pics, do yourself a favor and pick up the 50mm f/1.8 lens. It can be found for around $80 and is 3 stops faster than your current lens. It is crazy sharp, very lightweight and easy to use. It will make a difference for Spectro as you can set your camera to Aperture priority (Av) with the f/1.8 at the high ISO and the camera will probably get you at least 1/80th or so shutter speed. Only draw back is its not very wide so you can't get upclose to the parade. Your location makes more a difference on what you can fit in the frame.

If you can, practice a little bit around your house outside at night. See what works for you. How slow can you handhold the camera without getting camera shake blurred pics.

This isn't an exact science, but hopefully will give you a place to start. Good luck.

 

[Debs5angels]

OMG You are the best! Really big Disney hugs to you for taking the time to go through it step by step for me. You have no idea how much I appreciate it. I am going to print your reply out and study and practice it from now until Thursday. Thanks again!

IMO, and contrary to what Jen is saying, there are some general settings you can use.

Without a tripod to take pictures of the castle at night in your situation I would put the camera in M (manual) mode. Set your ISO to 1600 (though I think the XTi can go up to 3200, if so make it 3200), I would put the lens in its widest focal length (in your case 28mm) and then don't use the zoom. Use your feet to move closer or further away (if you zoom the lens instead, your aperture will get smaller, this is typical of most zoom lenses). Set your Aperture (f/stop) to f/3.5 (which I believe is the widest that lens will go). For shutter speed, hmmm, I would wait for the brighest colors to illuminate the castle and start with 1/30th. Now, you lucked out a bit as this lens does have IS so you can probably get away with handholding the lens down to about 1/10th or 1/8th of a second. This is where your going to have to play around with the shutter speed. See what works for you. Technique is going to play a big part. Meaning how you hold the lens and also how steady your hands are. Brace yourself against something if you can. If not then at least stand with one foot in front of the other, hold the camera tightly against your eye and while holding your breath gently press the shutter button. I know it may sound funny that you should hold your breath, but when your dealing with shutter speeds as slow as this ANY movement can creat a blury picture.

You can use the same settings for fireworks, however your timing has to come into play here. With a tripod you can leave the shutter open for 4 or 5 seconds and get the nice big long streaks along with the great big colorful bursts. Handheld you have to decide which you want. Some streaks or some of the big colorful bursts.


For SpectoMagic. This is tough. This is one of if not the hardest subject to photograph in Disney. A moving subject with not a lot of light at night. VERY difficult. You can use a flash, but that will drown out many of the colorful lights. Again, use the highest possible ISO (1600 or 3200), widest possible aperture (f/3.5), but to stop the movement of the subject you'll need at least a 1/80th shutter speed. If timing is right, maybe 1/60th, but that is about it. Anything slower and the movement of the subject will creat a blur. There is an exposure compensation button somewhere on the camera (will say EV or EC and have a +/- sign). You can use this and set it to -1 to help. IF you do use this, then change from M to Tv (shutter priority) and choose 1/60th to start, then go up a bit from there (no faster than 1/100th). Keep your ISO at 1600 or 3200 and the lens at 28mm. The camera will then choose f/3.5 for you as that is the widest aperture.

Keep in mind that all these are suggestions and a starting point. You can change them a bit based on the results you are getting.

If you really want to improve your SpectoMagic pics, do yourself a favor and pick up the 50mm f/1.8 lens. It can be found for around $80 and is 3 stops faster than your current lens. It is crazy sharp, very lightweight and easy to use. It will make a difference for Spectro as you can set your camera to Aperture priority (Av) with the f/1.8 at the high ISO and the camera will probably get you at least 1/80th or so shutter speed. Only draw back is its not very wide so you can't get upclose to the parade. Your location makes more a difference on what you can fit in the frame.

If you can, practice a little bit around your house outside at night. See what works for you. How slow can you handhold the camera without getting camera shake blurred pics.

This isn't an exact science, but hopefully will give you a place to start. Good luck.

 

[ella6599]

Another tip- if you can find a garbage can or something to set your camera on (or want to get a cheap tripod- they have one at Walmart for about $20- but it's a bit clunky) you can also set your camera on timer delay to take night shots- it eliminates the little bit of shake that comes from your hand pressing down the shutter.

I was in a similar situation last year...I just had my Rebel, and WANTED to learn manual...and had some of the basics down, but it was just really hard! So, one of the things I did was to search through galleries that people post online with their photo and EXIF data (what setting their camera was on when the shot was taken) to get an idea of what settings the shots I wanted to imitate were taken on.

 

[Debs5angels]

Thanks for the tip. That's a good idea about looking at other pictures and checking out the settings.

Another tip- if you can find a garbage can or something to set your camera on (or want to get a cheap tripod- they have one at Walmart for about $20- but it's a bit clunky) you can also set your camera on timer delay to take night shots- it eliminates the little bit of shake that comes from your hand pressing down the shutter.

I was in a similar situation last year...I just had my Rebel, and WANTED to learn manual...and had some of the basics down, but it was just really hard! So, one of the things I did was to search through galleries that people post online with their photo and EXIF data (what setting their camera was on when the shot was taken) to get an idea of what settings the shots I wanted to imitate were taken on.

 

[DizneyNutz]

In my first post to you, I recommended F/11, ISO 100 and bulb setting. I still like this combination, but wanted to share with you another post using F/16 and ISO 200 (see below). In both cases you will need a tripod however. Most of all have fun taking the photos. Don't get so wrapped up in trying to get perfect photos, that you forget you are on vacation We look forward to you sharing your photos with us upon your return. Have a GREAT trip

http://www.disboards.com/showthread.php?t=1538009&page=2

 

[meliahz]

Subscribing Going in December and I can use as many tips as I can get!!!

 

[handicap18]

In my first post to you, I recommended F/11, ISO 100 and bulb setting. I still like this combination, but wanted to share with you another post using F/16 and ISO 200 (see below). In both cases you will need a tripod however. Most of all have fun taking the photos. Don't get so wrapped up in trying to get perfect photos, that you forget you are on vacation We look forward to you sharing your photos with us upon your return. Have a GREAT trip

http://www.disboards.com/showthread.php?t=1538009&page=2

I completely agree with the BULB setting, however, based on the experience the OP said she had I didn't bother bringing it up especially after she mentioned she wasn't going to have a tripod. You'd also need a remote shutter release (wired or wireless).

My thought was let her get some experience with using shutter speeds, then once comfortable with that, take the next step to using BULB. Thats my opinion. Gutta learn to stand before you can walk. Then you gutta learn to walk before you can run.

 

[DizneyNutz]

I completely agree with the BULB setting, however, based on the experience the OP said she had I didn't bother bringing it up especially after she mentioned she wasn't going to have a tripod. You'd also need a remote shutter release (wired or wireless).

My thought was let her get some experience with using shutter speeds, then once comfortable with that, take the next step to using BULB. Thats my opinion. Gutta learn to stand before you can walk. Then you gutta learn to walk before you can run.

Now this person has the settings with or without a tripod. That will be up to them to decide.

 

[Groucho]

If you're pretty much resigned to auto mode, you will at least need to learn about ISO levels in order to get the most out of the camera.

ISO is a way of measuring how sensitive film is, or in the digital world, how sensitive the sensor is. By sensitive, I mean how sensitive to light it is.

Most cameras start at either ISO 100 or 200, then go up exponentially - 200, 400, 800, 1600, and sometimes 3200 or even 6400. Each one is twice as sensitive as the one before. For example, assuming that everything else is the same, a picture that must be taken at a shutter speed of 1/30th of a second at ISO 200 can be taken at a shutter speed of 1/60th of a second at ISO 400 or 1/120th at ISO 800. The faster the shutter, the less blurring you'll get.

Out of the box, I'm pretty sure that your camera will only use ISO 100-400, which is fine for daytime shots when there's plenty of light. But for nighttime shots, you'll want to manually set the ISO higher.

Now, why wouldn't you just set your camera to the maximum ISO and leave it there? Because at the higher levels, the sensor will also have "noise", with you see in the final photo as blotchiness, speckles of color, loss of sharpness, etc. By and large, you want to use the lowest ISO possible, but you don't always have a choice. Digital SLRs generally can deliver nearly perfect quality up to ISO 400, ISO 800 has slight amounts of noise, and ISO 1600 has slightly more but still not very much.

To sum up - ISO and shutter speed are like two sides of a teeter-totter - as ISO goes up, shutter speeds become quicker, and when ISO goes down, shutter speeds become slower. Your current night photos of the castle are blurry from camera shake because the shutter speed is too long, so a higher ISO will allow you to use a faster shutter speed, minimizing camera shake and leading to a sharper photo.

If you "get" that, congrats, you're well on your way to the next step... which is aperture, which also teeter-totters with the ISO and shutter speed.

Remember, with a DSLR, the camera is capable of delivering darn near any photo you want - if you want the best it can deliver, you will need to speak its language, at least a little. Throwing expensive lenses at it helps too, but a good understanding of the basics is worth more than a great lens, IMHO.

 

[boBQuincy]

There's nothing wrong with auto mode, it locks out a lot of the features of the camera but it also prevents a lot of bad photos from adjusting the settings incorrectly. If you are not ready to learn a *lot* in a short time then auto will probably save you from a lot of mistakes.

You definitely need a tripod and a remote release for night photos. If you go with Canon's remote remember that it only works with the camera in timer mode. Auto should give you some good photos of the castle at night, as long as you use a tripod and remote release.
Fireworks are more of a problem but with the same methods you should still get some good photos. For the ones with long trails you will have to learn to adjust the settings (ISO 100, f/16, 2 seconds is a good start, and manually focusing on a distant object helps too).

I use the "P" mode for most of my photos, it is like auto but with more options (and more chances to mess up).

I have a Canon Digital Rebel XTi. I only know how to use the auto mode on the camera. If someone tries to tell me about ISO or apreture(sp?) you might as well talk another language to me. When I try to take a picture of the castle at night or fireworks they never seem to come out. They usually come out blurry or dark.

Is there any way to get a good shot of both of those things on auto mode? Also does anyone have any suggestions on what to do to protect the camera when a sudden rain storm or shows that spray water at you? I leave for Disney on Aug. 16th so I was looking for any help possable. Thanks in advance!

 

[Debs5angels]

I want to thank Everyone who has posted for all their help. This has been a great lesson on how to use my camera. Not sure what my pictures will look like, but they can't be worse then they have been. If they are not so bad I will post some when I get back. Thanks again everyone! Enjoy the rest of the summer.