Multiple Contracts - Different UY

I'm not arguing ,just stating my feelings :) Life is too good to be arguing over anything as trivial as this.

As long as you know all the pros and cons, if VB is what you want, go for it. My "expensive" comment above was including the dues cost.

:earsboy: Bill
 
I'm not arguing ,just stating my feelings :) Life is too good to be arguing over anything as trivial as this.

As long as you know all the pros and cons, if VB is what you want, go for it. My "expensive" comment above was including the dues cost.

:earsboy: Bill
 
Well I have two contracts at two different resorts and two different use years. I HATE IT! I am forever screwing up planning, and can't for the life of me keep the two different use years straight in my mind. It might not be too bad if the use years were closer together, but we have April and August. If I could do it again I would have all my points at the same resort for the same use year. It's also a pain to combine points between the two contracts because there are rules about transferring borrowed points, so the separate contracts with two use years is not as seamless as having them all the same.
 
But not that big of a difference at the 7 month window
Yes it is. You cannot just combine the points from two separate UYs for a single night or a single reservation. You need to use your transfer to put points from one contract to the other to be able to combine the points for a single night or a single reservation. Otherwise, you make two separate reservations and ask for them to be linked.
 

I have 2 UY, Aug and June. No I would NOT do it again. It can be a pain. The worst is when I want to book something and have, say, 25 points in Aug and 70 in June and it takes 94 points for 3 nights. Oh, and I have to borrow. Can't do it. Would have to book 1 night with the 25 but that night is 28 points. And I'm trying to do this in the 11 month window so I can't buy OTU points. This happened to me for F&W 2016. I wanted a 1BR standard view at BWV (where I own) but I had 25- 2017 in June and like 70- 2017 in Aug. Just stuck with a P/G view studio. (I am somewhat guessing on numbers here, but basic gist).
 
Now I think I get it and apologize for not before.If I have different UY's than I can't just combine my points at the 7 month window like I thought I could.I need to borrow and transfer from one to the other,but If they're all the same UY even though they are different resorts I can combine at the 7 month window?
 
Now I think I get it and apologize for not before.If I have different UY's than I can't just combine my points at the 7 month window like I thought I could.I need to borrow and transfer from one to the other,but If they're all the same UY even though they are different resorts I can combine at the 7 month window?
As long as they are the same master contract number. If they are different contract numbers, you still have to transfer.
 
Now I think I get it and apologize for not before.If I have different UY's than I can't just combine my points at the 7 month window like I thought I could.I need to borrow and transfer from one to the other,but If they're all the same UY even though they are different resorts I can combine at the 7 month window?
It's possible to get different master contracts to work together but it's somewhat more difficult. It works best where one has a specific reason that outweighs the benefits of having them together. When DVC changed the banking rules it did removed one of the benefits. Reasons to have them as separate master contracts would include having them titled differently to get other names on a deed, a better UY and more wait list spots. One can transfer but technically you're still limited to the one per UY transfer rule even though DVC has tended to be more flexible for multiple contracts of a single owner. And there's no guarantee things won't change in the future such that it's negative (or positive) to having multiple contracts though if there are such changes are are far more that it'll be negative to this situation. Such as if they changed the fee structure such that there's a base fee and a lower per point amount as some others do. That could get both small contract owners and those with multiple UY. Of course if you transfer you'll have the limitations using those points such as currently not being able to reserve online. It's less of an issue if they are different home resorts than if they are the same.
 
As long as they are the same master contract number. If they are different contract numbers, you still have to transfer.

So far our other3 contracts are.If the same owners and same UY are on the next contract would that contract also be the same master contract number?
 
So far our other3 contracts are.If the same owners and same UY are on the next contract would that contract also be the same master contract number?

It should be. When I've added on I've also made a note of my existing membership number on the closing paperwork in addition to letting the broker know and it's been added correctly. There's the slight chance that DVC could miss it when setting up the account but if all is titled and held the same way it should just become a sub-contract to the existing.
 
should be. When I've added on I've also made a note of my existing membership number on the closing paperwork in addition to letting the broker know and it's been added correctly. There's the slight chance that DVC could miss it when setting up the account but if all is titled and held the same way it should just become a sub-contract to the existing.

So even VB as long as it's the same names and UY,correct?
 
Long term thinking about all the advice given on this subject and the fact that I'm only looking for a 25 point add-on it made sense to deal direct and put a request in for SSR with an Aug. UY.Yes I know 140..PP is against the grain but in the long run it will be cheaper than that VB buy .It's a contract that will last 12 yrs longer save me 2.65 pp now on MF and of course it's fully loaded. Bill,Dean and everyone else thank you for your wisdom and insight. Until ADD-Onitis bits again.
 
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Thanks for all the feedback to the thread. I just finalized an add on resale contract with my same UY loaded (SSR-Aug).

Just curious heynowirv, I agree with your logic about the value of SSR v. VB, however, is the reason your bought your add on direct and not resale was you only wanted 25 points and no more? The add on I just purchased was only 50 points. The seller listed at $95, I offered $92 and was accepted. I wasn't crazy that I am paying $92 for SSR but to get my same UY/loaded had an additional value to me.
 
Long term thinking about all the advice given on this subject and the fact that I'm only looking for a 25 point add-on it made sense to deal direct and put a request in for SSR with an Aug. UY.Yes I know 140..PP is against the grain but in the long run it will be cheaper than that VB buy .It's a contract that will last 12 yrs longer save me 2.65 pp now on MF and of course it's fully loaded. Bill,Dean and everyone else thank you for your wisdom and insight. Until ADD-Onitis its again.
For 25 points that's likely the best option and generally what we're recommended for that small of a contract.

Thanks for all the feedback to the thread. I just finalized an add on resale contract with my same UY loaded (SSR-Aug).

Just curious heynowirv, I agree with your logic about the value of SSR v. VB, however, is the reason your bought your add on direct and not resale was you only wanted 25 points and no more? The add on I just purchased was only 50 points. The seller listed at $95, I offered $92 and was accepted. I wasn't crazy that I am paying $92 for SSR but to get my same UY/loaded had an additional value to me.
On a 25 point contract closing costs will be almost $20 a point. If it's the perfect contract and fully loaded it might be a reasonable choice for resale but the closing costs and higher per point for a smaller contract beg the question in the specific situation. If available direct you get instant access and it's automatically added to the current contract. Plus depending on the UY, you may get some favorable options related to dues though this is more later in the calendar year than early. You also get banking up to the last day of the UY and might get some added one time benefits here and there as well. The general wisdom has been for very small contracts to go retail for most situations, VB & HH might be exceptions as well as Aulani if one can get a subsidized package.
 
For 25 points that's likely the best option and generally what we're recommended for that small of a contract.

On a 25 point contract closing costs will be almost $20 a point. If it's the perfect contract and fully loaded it might be a reasonable choice for resale but the closing costs and higher per point for a smaller contract beg the question in the specific situation. If available direct you get instant access and it's automatically added to the current contract. Plus depending on the UY, you may get some favorable options related to dues though this is more later in the calendar year than early. You also get banking up to the last day of the UY and might get some added one time benefits here and there as well. The general wisdom has been for very small contracts to go retail for most situations, VB & HH might be exceptions as well as Aulani if one can get a subsidized package.

Do you think I made a mistake purchasing the 50 points resale ? I have not signed the contract yet.
 
Do you think I made a mistake purchasing the 50 points resale ? I have not signed the contract yet.
That's about the cutoff limit or close to it, pretty straight forward for a 25 pt contract but decreasing less so as you near or pass 50. Retail $135 pp so roughly $7K with closing direct. Resale at $92 plus $450 closing (estimate) is just over $5K. The UY and points accounting as well as possible fee reimbursement could swing it one way or another. You would have spent more retail but not that much, would have had the points immediately with some additional possible benefits and qualified points. For a fully loaded contract with banked 2014 points and all other points intact, the choice is clearly toward resale. For a less favorable contract situation it could easily be a wash which means retail would be best. Of course there's also your time and effort as well as you're risk it may not be completed. And for some situations whether one can find what they want in terms of UY, home resort and number of points. In reality you've already gone through much of the negatives by this point, if you're saving $1-2k I'd proceed if it's a good choice otherwise. If you're just break even compared to retail, I'd bail and do retail. Don't forget to give a value to any points not present or extra points compared to if you were buying retail.

You said August and loaded I believe. So that'd be all 2014, all 2015 and all 2016 points intact to fit the qualification of fully loaded. Assuming you're reimbursing for dues for this year, that put your total cost at $5050+$275 (rough fees)-$500 (renting the extra banked 2014 points) resale but you might miss the banking window if you don't write it into the contract. Retail it'd be roughly $7K plus $$230 dues with the advantages of direct.
 
That's about the cutoff limit or close to it, pretty straight forward for a 25 pt contract but decreasing less so as you near or pass 50. Retail $135 pp so roughly $7K with closing direct. Resale at $92 plus $450 closing (estimate) is just over $5K. The UY and points accounting as well as possible fee reimbursement could swing it one way or another. You would have spent more retail but not that much, would have had the points immediately with some additional possible benefits and qualified points. For a fully loaded contract with banked 2014 points and all other points intact, the choice is clearly toward resale. For a less favorable contract situation it could easily be a wash which means retail would be best. Of course there's also your time and effort as well as you're risk it may not be completed. And for some situations whether one can find what they want in terms of UY, home resort and number of points. In reality you've already gone through much of the negatives by this point, if you're saving $1-2k I'd proceed if it's a good choice otherwise. If you're just break even compared to retail, I'd bail and do retail. Don't forget to give a value to any points not present or extra points compared to if you were buying retail.

You said August and loaded I believe. So that'd be all 2014, all 2015 and all 2016 points intact to fit the qualification of fully loaded. Assuming you're reimbursing for dues for this year, that put your total cost at $5050+$275 (rough fees)-$500 (renting the extra banked 2014 points) resale but you might miss the banking window if you don't write it into the contract. Retail it'd be roughly $7K plus $$230 dues with the advantages of direct.

It does not include 2014 points. In your opinion, should I pass on these 50 SSR points? Just to clarify..... as a member, you can call up DVC and buy 50 points for any resort or is that when the wait list comes into effect? What additional cost are there buying direct ? Are there additional cost buying resale that you do not have buying retail ?
 
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It does not include 2014 points. Sounds like I need to pass on these 50 points.

If it has all 2015 points though it's still a $2k savings vs retail and as mentioned you've already done the difficult parts in finding a contract that matches up. And with retail you'll only get 2015 points. Resale could give you more than you could possibly get retail if you found one with banked 2014 points but if you're getting 2015 points that's just a wash between the resale and retail.
 
It does not include 2014 points. In your opinion, should I pass on these 50 SSR points? Just to clarify..... as a member, you can call up DVC and buy 50 points for any resort or is that when the wait list comes into effect? What additional cost are there buying direct ? Are there additional cost buying resale that you do not have buying retail ?
Not necessarily, you're still saving money even though it is not a loaded contract, you'll get exactly the same points as if buying retail if all 15 & 16 points are there. It's still almost $2K less (roughly $1900) than retail assuming you don't miss the banking deadline. The good news is if it falls through you can still go retail and bank up until the day before your UY starts and since there was a price increase recently I believe, that should be fairly safe as well for a while.
 
And if you haven't signed the contract you can still ask to have the points banked and contract modified to show that. At least assuming the owner is in good standing and allowed to bank. Then you've removed that concern.
 



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