I was just in Key West for the umpteenth time last week. The Butterfly Conservatory was packed with people, as was the Hemingway House, but neither is really a big deal if you don't mind waiting a little bit. The lines for cruisers getting on the Conch Train were ludicrous, though. Do the hoho trolley instead. Either line.
The Dante's pictures are more than likely because of Fantasy Fest, which is a free-for-all and not family friendly in the slightest. When I was there in February a few years ago it was *really* tame. February 23rd is prior to Spring Break and it was *really* quiet this past week. Maximum two cruise ships a day last week, which made for tolerable crowds most of the time.
The few times I was on Duval Street going from point-to-point elsewhere the worst that I noticed this time was "tobacco pipes" and questionable tshirts like **** you you ****ing **** in the windows. (You fill in the asterisks). The bars were mellow as could be. It seems to have been cleaned up a smidge, though I still find it pretty trashy. I smelled more vomit on Duval Street during the day than I've smelled on a rough non-stop flight across the country.
Please don't eat at places like Sloppy Joe's, Hog's Breath or Margaritaville, though, . There are so many better places to eat. Smokin' Tuna Saloon, which is a really cool courtyard setting, was a great respite from the heat. Rum Barrel has pretty darned good food and their rum selection is better than any in the Keys. Conch Republic Seafood is good. Garbo's food truck behind Grunt's Bar has a small but excellent menu. B.O.'s fish wagon is a Key West tradition (you wouldn't think anything was there if you didn't know what you were looking for) and Pepe's is the oldest restaurant in Key West, with a funky vibe and great food. If you want a gorgeous view and spectaular food, there's the legendary Louie's Backyard, which sits right on the Atlantic, next to dog beach. Excellent vegetarian and non-vegetarian food can be found on Southard at The Cafe, A Mostly Vegetarian Place. If you're wandering the Historic Waterfront at the Bight, Turtle Kraal's has a spectacular view of the water and excellent food. The new Waterfront Brewery had the best Cuban sandwich I've eaten in years, and their beer was at least acceptable. The double IPA was phenomenal.
There's a new store on Duval that specializes in macarons that is spectacular, but they are *expensive.* $16 for 6 of them. Ouch. We bit the bullet and loved them, but I don't think I'd spend the money again. We also went to Glazed Donuts on Eaton, next to the Tropic Theatre. Fantastic donuts. We also made our regular trip to El Meson de Pepe on Mallory Square and were not disappointed. They're no El Siboney, but they satisfied an urge.