I need a mechanic

disneychrista

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So I did something stupid today and left my keys in the ignition, with the ignition "on." Completely drained my battery. AAA to the rescue.

But here is the problem my car won't move. Put it in gear and the engine just reeves. Of course it is after 5pm on a Friday so I can't take it in to get looked at until Monday morning. Why? What does my battery have to do with my transmission? I've never had an issue with any other car. The battery gets jumped you drive around for 15 minutes and you are good.


It is a 2014 Ford Fiesta SE Hatchback.


See post #25 for new issues, continuation of the old issue.
 
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So I did something stupid today and left my keys in the ignition, with the ignition "on." Completely drained my battery. AAA to the rescue.

But here is the problem my car won't move. Put it in gear and the engine just reeves. Of course it is after 5pm on a Friday so I can't take it in to get looked at until Monday morning. Why? What does my battery have to do with my transmission? I've never had an issue with any other car. The battery gets jumped you drive around for 15 minutes and you are good.


It is a 2014 Ford Fiesta SE Hatchback.
Your battery has nothing to with the transmission. Cars do start to have issues, and transmissions are not cheap.....
 
I actually did have a similar not exact issue about 4-5 years ago were my car wouldn't go over 15mph and it turned out it WAS the battery. They replaced the battery and everything was fine. So there has to be a connection.

If it does turn out to be the transmission. I WILL NOT be fixing it. I will go buy a new car. I have hated this cars transmission since I bough the car 7 years ago.
 

I've experienced something like that before with a friend's car. It would eventually stop working when warm, but might be able to drive about a mile at a time until the transmission stopped moving it. Let it cool down and it could maybe go for another mile.

It's the transmission and more likely it's a coincidence. When you say "putting it in gear" is it the 5-speed manual or the 6-speed automatic? I'm assuming this is an automatic and you're really just putting it in drive? A manual wouldn't likely do that. Maybe if a few teeth were broken/chipped they might move a little bit and then clunk.

The "automatic" transmission on the 2014 Festiva is the notorious PowerShift transmission. It's actually a dry dual-clutch transmission. It's supposed to be more efficient than a traditional automatic transmission (with torque converter) as it functions more like two dry-clutch manual transmissions. The notorious part was really harsh shifts that would cause some nasty shudders and premature wear.

The Ford PowerShift transmission in question is found in 2011–2016 Fiesta and 2012–2016 Focus cars. As described by owners of the vehicles, the primary, recurrent issues are a shuddering feeling while accelerating from a stop—like someone who can't feather the clutch properly on a stick shift—followed by a rough 1-2 upshift that again sends a vibration throughout the vehicle. Owners have reported replacing clutches, output shafts, and entire transmissions. They've come back for software updates. More often than not, as described by owners we've spoken to and on forums across the internet, the problems reappear even after service technicians claim the transmission is within normal factory limits.​
What's the Problem?
In place of a conventional automatic's torque converter, this dual-clutch six-speed transmission uses two clutch packs to couple the engine to the transmission—one that's engaged when an odd gear is selected, the other for evens. Dual-clutch gearboxes typically deliver improved fuel economy and faster shifts than a traditional automatic. But these transmissions also tend to slip the clutch like a manual when getting off the line and can shift rougher than a torque-converter automatic. Exacerbating these undesirable traits, the Ford uses dry clutches in the interest of efficiency. Wet clutches, which bathe the friction discs in hydraulic fluid, offer smoother engagement. It's no coincidence that the better dual-clutch transmissions—such as those used by Audi, BMW, Porsche, and Volkswagen—use wet clutches. In the case of the Ford transmission, many owners simply weren’t used to dual-clutch transmission feel. But in the U.S. and across the world, this transmission’s history of needing frequent repairs has been well documented.​
 
It's the transmission and more likely it's a coincidence. When you say "putting it in gear" is it the 5-speed manual or the 6-speed automatic? I'm assuming this is an automatic and you're really just putting it in drive?

Yes it is an automatic. I was trying to put it in reverse to back out of the parking space.

The "automatic" transmission on the 2014 Fiesta is the notorious PowerShift transmission.
It SUCKS! I HATE the transmission. It is garbage and it is why if it happens to be the transmission I won't be fixing it.
 
Yes it is an automatic. I was trying to put it in reverse to back out of the parking space.


It SUCKS! I HATE the transmission. It is garbage and it is why if it happens to be the transmission I won't be fixing it.

Ford has upped the powertrain warranty on it to 7 years and 100K miles. You might consider getting it fixed before selling it, with proof of it being fixed. They might even replace the whole transmission.
 
Ford has upped the powertrain warranty on it to 7 years and 100K miles. You might consider getting it fixed before selling it, with proof of it being fixed. They might even replace the whole transmission.

I just passed 7 years in March. :(
 
A quick search online reveals there are issues with the transmission connected to bad batteries. I still don't understand, why.

The battery I got last time I had an issue (August 2017) has a warranty up to 100 months, so at least they will pro-rate the new one, if it turns out to the battery (which I do suspect).
 
A bad battery can cause transmission problems. Since you drained your battery this is most likely what you have. I would get a new battery and see what you have. Let’s us know what it is when you find out. I’m usually right,
 
A bad battery can cause transmission problems. Since you drained your battery this is most likely what you have. I would get a new battery and see what you have. Let’s us know what it is when you find out. I’m usually right,
Since I previously had transmission issues with a "bad battery" I am inclined to agree that it is the battery. But I still don't understand WHY it causes an issue.
 
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A quick search online reveals there are issues with the transmission connected to bad batteries. I still don't understand, why.

The battery I got last time I had an issue (August 2017) has a warranty up to 100 months, so at least they will pro-rate the new one, if it turns out to the battery (which I do suspect).

The transmission is electronically controlled. The "profile" for how it shifts is based on software. Not sure if interrupting this means something really odd with the control module. I looked it up further, and 7 years is just the extended warranty on the clutch and related hardware. If it's the electronic control module, that's a 10 year/150K mile extended warranty now.


  • Ford will also reach out again to a small percentage of remaining affected customers (~165,000 owners, 16 percent of the original, in the U.S.) and provide them another opportunity to get an important free software update. Eighty-four percent of affected owners have already received the update.
    • The update provides an enhanced warning if a transmission control module begins to fail. Where necessary, Ford will replace modules for this group of customers free of charge for up to six months even if the 10-year/150,000-mile warranty has expired.
 
Since I previously had transmission issues with a "bad battery" I am inclined to agree that it is the battery. But I still don't understand WHY it causes an issue.

Is it starting at all? It sounds like it's starting. This is one of those things where the battery might need to be fully charged. I would recommend that any time a battery needs to be jump started. Also - any time a car battery is drained to that point, it's going to reduce the life. A lead-acid car battery is almost happiest when it's fully charged (but not overcharged) often. Leaving a battery at a lower state of charge can result in "sulfation" where lead sulfate crystals form, which reduces the capacity and performance. Driving it off will charge the battery to some extent, but an external battery charger connected to AC power will almost always do a better job than the alternator. I'll occasionally charge a battery if the car does a lot of short trips that won't thoroughly charge the battery.

It would be a long shot that it's an electrical problem that's a result of either inadequate voltage and/or current. Once it's started, the alternator generally usually produces enough power to operate the transmission's electronics. Theoretically one could even disconnect the battery at that point, although it's not a great idea to do so.
 
So I did something stupid today and left my keys in the ignition, with the ignition "on." Completely drained my battery. AAA to the rescue.

But here is the problem my car won't move. Put it in gear and the engine just reeves. Of course it is after 5pm on a Friday so I can't take it in to get looked at until Monday morning. Why? What does my battery have to do with my transmission? I've never had an issue with any other car. The battery gets jumped you drive around for 15 minutes and you are good.


It is a 2014 Ford Fiesta SE Hatchback.


We have the same car as you have, and had various transmission issues shortly after buying it. It would feel like it was stuck when going from being stopped a red light turning green and attempting to move. We got the 'shuddering' problem mentioned above also. It would not accelerate properly on a highway, felt like it was 'hesitating'. I looked it up and found it was a very common problem with Ford Fiesta's and Focus for that year. It did list one of the problems as car not moving into gear at all. The dealer replaced the clutch and module under warranty, as it is/was a known recall problem. They did extend the warranty to 10 years because so many people were having issues. I would be calling your dealer and asking them about it, sounds like it could be the same issue we had. Ours is still under warranty for the module and clutch according to a letter we got from Ford about 2 years ago. The dealer told me some people only got the extended for the module, that we were 'lucky' and to make sure to keep that letter in the vehicle, just in case! We only have 21000 miles on ours now (we don't drive much) and I think it was around 7000 miles when we started having the issues. It's been good so far (knock on wood!) Good luck!
 
Not too familiar with Fords, but it could be that because the ignition was on when the battery drained, that the module that controls the transmission is 'out of sync' and may be in a safety mode. First thing I would recommend is to make sure that the parking brake is on, in the off chance that somebody inadvertently knocked the shift linkage off the transmission and the car is actually sitting there in neutral.

Sometimes disconnecting the negative battery cable for a minute or so (with the ignition off), then reconnecting it and trying to start the car and trying to shift again may help.
 
I would get a new battery before doing anything else. My son had a similar issue when he left a light on inside his car at the parking lot at port canaveral. When they came back several days later, dead battery. Had it jump started, but would hardly drive - nothing worked on the car. Had it towed to Orlando. Got a new battery. Worked like normal. The dealership said cars need a fully charged battery to work these days.

Try the battery first. Probably your cheapest fix of the possible options
 
I actually did have a similar not exact issue about 4-5 years ago were my car wouldn't go over 15mph and it turned out it WAS the battery. They replaced the battery and everything was fine. So there has to be a connection.

If it does turn out to be the transmission. I WILL NOT be fixing it. I will go buy a new car. I have hated this cars transmission since I bough the car 7 years ago.
I would think that would be your first though then this time.
 
I changed my battery on my F-150 and after it would not idle properly.

Turns out there is a section in the manual to "relearn its idle and fuel trim strategy" after a dead battery or battery change. Even after following the instructions I had issues with the idle when switching to reverse to back into parking spots. 80% of the time the idle would drop to low and the engine would stop. It lasted for about 2 months until the car fully learned how to idle again.

Perhaps there is something in the manual related to battery changes?
 
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I had a 2006 Ford Windstar with major transmission issues. I replaced it at a little over 50,000 miles, then again while still in the 2 year warranty phase. When it started going again at just over 100,000 miles I got a new car. Seriously in 5 years I was looking at a 3rd transmission. Now to be honest I will admit they were rebuilt transmissions so I just kept getting the same issues over and over. My transmission shop said Ford has had issues with its transmissions for a few years. The one in my car was recalled for every year and model but the one I had. When I got the new car my husband wanted a Ford. Since it is my car and he can't drive anymore I refused.

OP I would try changing the battery first. I found that just charging a battery that was completely drained, especially an older battery, created more issues.
 
UPDATE!!

So we (my daughter & I) went by at about 8:30 this morning to check on it. At this point it had been sitting for 14 hours, after being jumped and sitting idelling for about 20 -30 minutes hoping to get it to move. It started right up and I was able to drive it with no issues. So yes it was the battery that caused the issue so @dcpluto (and myself) were correct that it was the battery that caused the issue.

As a precaution I drove it around for about 15 minutes and then went grocery shopping. No issues starting it and starting it again.
 


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