I love credit cards so much!

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Oh Jiminy Crickets I'm going to have to read that later. Well, i can always



No, that is an excellent answer. I've looked over the two and I think I'm going with the MR points this time. Maybe I'll get the SPG next. DH has so many Marriott points they just don't have the allure they once had.
One interesting thing on the Biz Gold Rewards is you get to pick a 3x category which includes Airfare or Gas Stations as options. You would also get 2x points in the other category. So that's a nice way to earn some extra points while hitting your $5k min. spend.
 
Oh Jiminy Crickets I'm going to have to read that later. Well, i can always



No, that is an excellent answer. I've looked over the two and I think I'm going with the MR points this time. Maybe I'll get the SPG next. DH has so many Marriott points they just don't have the allure they once had.

- SPG has 23 airline partners. 2 Hotel Chains | MR has 17 airline partners. 4 hotel chains
- SPG Biz card/SPG personal card is rumored to be gone in 2018.
- SPG gives u an additional 5k if u send 20k to an airline, so 80k airline points = 100k airline points.
- Marriott points can transfer to SPG at a 1:3 ratio, which would help boost your SPG points.

choice is up to you though.
 
Ok that's done! I now have an AmEx Gold Business card and no business, haha.

I'm going to be gone from Disboards for a while because I really do have a ton of work to do, but once my exams are over at the end of January I'll be back to continue working on this and to ask more of your advice.

Thanks so much, everyone!
 
Ok that's done! I now have an AmEx Gold Business card and no business, haha.

I'm going to be gone from Disboards for a while because I really do have a ton of work to do, but once my exams are over at the end of January I'll be back to continue working on this and to ask more of your advice.

Thanks so much, everyone!
You say that now...but tomorrow you'll be back ;) HAHAHA!
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thank you...... so when would I book quantas,or when would I book AA or another airline? this is where it gets cloudy, how do I know which is optimal for what trip? Would it be less Avios thru QUantas bc of the distance? I guess I'm asking how do I translate the Avios needed for an AA flight? So checked out awardhacker which is pretty cool, but is it accurate? I'm inputting flight from LAX-Auck and it's showing me 35k BA miles.....

BA doesn't show availability to AKL. So there is probably a connection and you have to search by segment.

If you use Avios to book Quantas or AA or any other One World airline for the LAX-SYD trip it will be 54,500 Avios because Avios is distance based. The distance flown from LAX-SYD won't change regardless of what airline you are flying.

As you already discovered, if you had and used American Advantage miles to book an AA flight it would cost you 40,000 AA miles for that flight. The same AA flight booked with Avios will be 54,500 Avios. The segment for SYD-AKL is 10,000 Avios.

I base my decisions on which points to use based on how many points do I have in a program and how easy or difficult is it to accumulate those points. I'll share a few examples of what I mean. Here is our current balances in some of the programs we use the most;

AA - 1,000,000 + miles
UR - 400,000 + points
BA - 362,000 + Avios (current companion pass)
MR - 300,000 points
SPG - 138,000 + points
UA - 205,000 + points

Let's say I want to fly to London from Miami. I check UA and they have no flights for that route with lie flat seats. for my dates. That takes them out of the equation immediately. I look at my other choices and see I can get a flight with lie flat seats in first using Avios for 100K each way. So RT for 2 of us would be 400K Avios I find a saver award on AA and can use 85K AA miles each way. So RT for 2 of us would be 340K AA miles.

Even though I have over a million AA miles and I would need 60K less AA miles than Avios for the trip, I'm going to go with the Avios for the following reasons. First, I have a companion pass, so I only need to redeem 200K Avios plus an obscene amount in taxes and fees to get the flights. But even if I did not have a companion pass and taking the taxes and fees out of the equation, I'd still go the Avios route. Here's why. UR, MR and SPG all transfer to BA. I can earn UR points faster than any other points currency due to the Chase Quadfecta of cards I use for UR earning. While I wouldn't likely transfer SPG or MR to BA or AA, the option is there. In addition, I know that I need to book flights for our trip to Antarctica later this year. It could potentially cost me 780K AA miles so I am currently hoarding those just in case. Last year, we transferred over 400,000 SPG points for a flight. SPG points are the hardest to earn since there are no bonus categories. I made that decision based on the flight, a suite on SQ, so it was a unique experience. Also the fact that no one knows what will become of the SPG card in the near future so I wanted to get a really cool experience out of the points we earned.

So there you have it. That's how I decide what point currency I'm using on a given flight and why. Hope that helps @hsmamato2
 
They will count during the automatic approval process. From everything I've read, the system can't tell the difference between store cards and other credit cards. So if OP is at 5/24 with them included, they'd have to call Chase and hopefully get a CR who is willing to overlook them. My Amazon store card was counted when I reconned my Marriott app and I was denied (twice).
I had the same experience with my Banana Republic card. It is not a Visa like my Old Navy but just a store card and it was definitely on the list when I called recon for the CIP. Luckily, it is gone this month and i’ll Never apply for a store only credit card. That darn SIL on mine talking me into it.
 
I’m usually of the thought that you shouldn’t proactively reduce your credit lines because you can use them as bargaining chips to get cards approved upon reconsideration.

However, $89k is a lot of extended credit! But maybe your/your household income can support that. I think if you had to reallocate credit to get a Freedom approved, you’re probably at the limit of credit that Chase is willing to extend to you. And if you want to increase your chance at auto-approval for the CIP, proactively reducing your credit lines might be a good idea. (I wouldn’t want to face human recon on a CIP denial.) Besides, all that extended credit won’t do you very much good on a CIP application if it does head to recon because Chase won’t let you reallocate credit from your personal cards to a business card, so having all that credit is not much of a bargaining chip.

ETA: If I were going to reduce my credit lines with a Chase, I’d probably do it 2-3 months in advance of the CIP application so that it’s updated to the credit agencies but also so that I’d have a month or two for my credit score to settle/recover.

I’m usually of the thought that you shouldn’t proactively reduce your credit lines because you can use them as bargaining chips to get cards approved upon reconsideration.

However, $89k is a lot of extended credit! But maybe your/your household income can support that. I think if you had to reallocate credit to get a Freedom approved, you’re probably at the limit of credit that Chase is willing to extend to you. And if you want to increase your chance at auto-approval for the CIP, proactively reducing your credit lines might be a good idea. (I wouldn’t want to face human recon on a CIP denial.) Besides, all that extended credit won’t do you very much good on a CIP application if it does head to recon because Chase won’t let you reallocate credit from your personal cards to a business card, so having all that credit is not much of a bargaining chip.

ETA: If I were going to reduce my credit lines with a Chase, I’d probably do it 2-3 months in advance of the CIP application so that it’s updated to the credit agencies but also so that I’d have a month or two for my credit score to settle/recover.

Thx. I certainly don't need nor did I ask for that much credit. I might call and drop each card to 10k, except the Reserved I kinda like having some room on that one.
 
Ok I'm back because I have another question. I'm wondering what happens if you end up returning something you bought that went toward your initial expense to get your signup bonus, do they take it back, even if it's well after that first three months time period and you've spent more on the card since then? I don't mean if you intentionally buy stuff with the intent to return it after you get the bonus, just if you happen to need to return something.

I'm just wondering if you need to be careful not to buy something you might end up returning after the time is up. If I prepaid a character meal at Disney and then ended up cancelling it, would that get me in trouble? I mean, if it happened within those first three months I'd just spend the money elsewhere, but what if it happened later in the year? I was thinking about getting an ADR for Cinderella's Table in May, but I'm not absolutely sure we'd be able to make it.

So if I need to take back something I bought with that card after the three months, do I need to be careful to exchange it for something else (or maybe get store credit) rather than just returning it?
 
Ok I'm back because I have another question. I'm wondering what happens if you end up returning something you bought that went toward your initial expense to get your signup bonus, do they take it back, even if it's well after that first three months time period and you've spent more on the card since then? I don't mean if you intentionally buy stuff with the intent to return it after you get the bonus, just if you happen to need to return something.

I'm just wondering if you need to be careful not to buy something you might end up returning after the time is up. If I prepaid a character meal at Disney and then ended up cancelling it, would that get me in trouble? I mean, if it happened within those first three months I'd just spend the money elsewhere, but what if it happened later in the year? I was thinking about getting an ADR for Cinderella's Table in May, but I'm not absolutely sure we'd be able to make it.

So if I need to take back something I bought with that card after the three months, do I need to be careful to exchange it for something else (or maybe get store credit) rather than just returning it?
If there's even the potential I'll get a refund I don't use it when I calculate my total spending. So, yes I'd put it on the card to get the bonus to post faster but I'd still spend the same cost of the meal on something I know I won't return within the timeframe of the bonus just to be safe. That way you have your wiggle room and no worries!
 
There are varying schools of thought on this. First - if you don't have enough Credit Limit you don't have any to transfer over... BUT it's nicer to get auto-approved. I am one that is in the camp of doing proactive reductions on my credit line to increase odds of auto-approval. OF course keep in mind that this can affect your credit score and utilization if you lower your limits. So it's not necessarily an easy answer. However if you know you're at the limit of what they'll give you - lowering some limits to free up about $10k wouldn't be a bad idea.
I tried that, it didn't work for me. Had say 50k total credit from Chase. Reduced 2 cards to 10k each, freeing up 15k in credit(now 35k total) Applied for new card, went pending. Got letter in mail that new card is 5k line, reduced one of the 10k cards to 5 k to free up credit. Total credit still 35k.
 
I tried that, it didn't work for me. Had say 50k total credit from Chase. Reduced 2 cards to 10k each, freeing up 15k in credit(now 35k total) Applied for new card, went pending. Got letter in mail that new card is 5k line, reduced one of the 10k cards to 5 k to free up credit. Total credit still 35k.
Yeah - due to various reasons it's certainly not a fix-all. Not necessarily a terrible thing in your scenario either - seems you still got the card either auto-approved, or approved without talking to Recon (which is the goal behind this whole thing).

In the instance where you frankly have way tooooo much limit it definitely can make sense. I think at one point Chase had me with over $90k in total limit...this was back in my heyday when I had 9 open Chase cards, HAHA!
 
Ok I'm back because I have another question. I'm wondering what happens if you end up returning something you bought that went toward your initial expense to get your signup bonus, do they take it back, even if it's well after that first three months time period and you've spent more on the card since then? I don't mean if you intentionally buy stuff with the intent to return it after you get the bonus, just if you happen to need to return something.

I'm just wondering if you need to be careful not to buy something you might end up returning after the time is up. If I prepaid a character meal at Disney and then ended up cancelling it, would that get me in trouble? I mean, if it happened within those first three months I'd just spend the money elsewhere, but what if it happened later in the year? I was thinking about getting an ADR for Cinderella's Table in May, but I'm not absolutely sure we'd be able to make it.

So if I need to take back something I bought with that card after the three months, do I need to be careful to exchange it for something else (or maybe get store credit) rather than just returning it?
AMEX is pretty good at tracking this stuff and will watch for returns. Don't get overly concerned about this - just make sure you hit the spend and if you have a return spend that same amount of money somewhere else. If you have a return 3 months later then just make sure to put other stuff on the card that month so you still owe them money. Don't get overly scared about it - if you do the right thing you'll have no issues.
 
If there's even the potential I'll get a refund I don't use it when I calculate my total spending. So, yes I'd put it on the card to get the bonus to post faster but I'd still spend the same cost of the meal on something I know I won't return within the timeframe of the bonus just to be safe. That way you have your wiggle room and no worries!


That's a good idea. I think I'll overspend a little to be safe. I was imagining myself returning a box of cracked lightbulbs to Wal-Mart the day after the 3 months was up and ending up a few bucks short of the $5000.
 
That's a good idea. I think I'll overspend a little to be safe. I was imagining myself returning a box of cracked lightbulbs to Wal-Mart the day after the 3 months was up and ending up a few bucks short of the $5000.

In addition to over-spending a little, I also try to meet the minimum spend at least a few weeks before the 3 months (or however long it is), especially if I am buying things on-line, to avoid worrying about the purchase posting in time.
 
If there's even the potential I'll get a refund I don't use it when I calculate my total spending. So, yes I'd put it on the card to get the bonus to post faster but I'd still spend the same cost of the meal on something I know I won't return within the timeframe of the bonus just to be safe. That way you have your wiggle room and no worries!
Someone posted on TPG today that their SW RR points posted from Chase in December though he had calculated for January due to some returns. Chase CS told him returns count towards spend so he is out a CP.
 
Yeah - due to various reasons it's certainly not a fix-all. Not necessarily a terrible thing in your scenario either - seems you still got the card either auto-approved, or approved without talking to Recon (which is the goal behind this whole thing).

In the instance where you frankly have way tooooo much limit it definitely can make sense. I think at one point Chase had me with over $90k in total limit...this was back in my heyday when I had 9 open Chase cards, HAHA!
It was ok in the end although they picked which card to reduce and it wasn't necessarily what I would have picked. They reduced my CSP and kept SW at 17k. My total line with Chase was well over my (part time) income. I have 5 Chase cards now.
 
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