In Bologna I did a food tour, which I booked on the train from Firenze (around noon). While I ended up enjoying the tour, it started out horribly. When I got to the meeting point the guide (rudely) told me her group was full and wouldn't even look at my ticket; she then left with the group. I contacted the tour operator and they told me they would reach out to her and gave me the name and address of the first stop. I hustled there and again spoke to her and showed her my ticket -- this time she very rudely said "my group is full, you are with another company, please don't follow us and leave us alone". Almost in tears, I turned the corner and texted the company once again. They told me to approach her again, I refused until they contacted her. They called her, then told me to approach her again. This was incredibly hard to do after she was *so* rude to me, but I did and she couldn't apologize enough. She told me that she thought my name was for a man (my name is as far from masculine as you can get -- not that it matters), which is why she turned me away. Suuuuure. It was hard to feel part of the group after this, but after the second stop I got to know some of the people and ended up enjoying it. The company gave me a 50% refund, which I felt was fair, but I would never book with them again. But I did learn of the places the locals eat, get their cheese, pasta, bread, sweets and gelato, which is what I was really after.
I also did my favorite tour ever from Bologna, a parmesan regiano cheese / balsamic tour. I had to take a 20 min high speed train to Emila Regiana -- the tour operator, Claudio, told me the train number and was very clear with his instructions, which was amazing. We started at an agritourissimo where we had cappuccino and freshly baked pastries. Then we headed to a factory owned by Claudio's family where we saw the entire process of how they make parmesian reggiano cheese (YUM) and went back to the agritourissimo for some 12, 24 and 36 month aged cheese with freshly baked breads and crackers. Everyone (8 people total, the max he can take) got 1lb of 24 month cheese to bring home. We then visited the farm where they get the milk for the cheese (also owned by Claudio's family).
Next we drove way up in the hills to his cousins farm, where his cousin produces balsamic vinegar. The small shed where the balsamic was stored smelled *heavenly*. The shed was not very big -- the amount of work that goes into producing balsamic is mind-boggling. The yield is tiny too -- 100 litres of grape juice produces just 1 litre of balsamic. The min. aging time is 8 years; aged 12 and 25 years are the only ones that can be DOC. This explains the dear price of balsamic -- a 3oz bottle was 95euros (I bought an 8 year and 25 year and I will have to *really* like someone to share the 25 year with them LOL).
I would do this tour again and would highly recommend to anyone with an interest in cheese / balsamic (I *love* both!).
A 'baby' -- named such because it requires about the same amount of work as a baby for the first 3 weeks after it's made (all work is by hand -- it's a labor-intensive process)
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Each wheel is dated and numbered so they know when it was made and which batch it is from
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The salt bath pool (the wheels spend 3 weeks here)
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Climate-controlled storage area -- every inch of each wheel needs to brushed for mould weekly
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Claudio's family owns the farm where they get the milk for the cheese; this calf was born the morning of our tour!
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Aging balsamic vinegar
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25 yr aged balsamic on vanilla gelato -- DELICIOUS. Of course the gelato was made from milk from the cows on Claudio's family
farm!
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