I love credit cards so much! v3.0 (see first page for add'l details)

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I assume there aren't support links for citibank cards? I checked dischurners and didn't see anything for citi. Just wanted to be sure before I pulled the trigger.
 
Wow I didn't expect that. That's surprising to me! Idk if we've ever really stayed at a Hyatt. We don't have any immediate travel plans, but I'll keep that in mind for next time for go somewhere!

Also keep in mind point redemptions through Hyatt will waive resort fees if the hotel ur staying at has them.

For breakfast at Hyatt places, they don't really check haha. Been to 3 and u just walk in.
 
If you are staying at Place/House yes, 100%. If you book through the portal you won't get the free breakfast.
We booked Hyatt Regency once through the portal because it was cheaper, but that night didn't count towards status.

This is what we have booked this year.
Anaheim Hyatt Place, 2 nights 24,000. Cash price $366 - CSR 24,400
Page Az 1 night 12,000. Cash $241
Moab Utah, 3 nights 24,000, Cash $865

Using a fnc and 16,000 hyatt points for 3 nights at the hh near knotts next month. Cash is almost $730. The one across from dlr is sold out but would have been another 14k and not worth it imo.

I find hyatt points easier to get a high pp redemption value than other points/miles.
 
So yesterday I sent a SM to Chase asking to reduce the credit limit on my Disney Premier Visa to $4k and to product switch to the no-fee version, which I've been meaning to do since forever.* They responded saying they can't do PCs via SM ("call the number on the back of the card") but they could do the limit reduction, which they did. Then today I called the number on the card to do the PC, and was told .. .. .. .. you can't PC unless the card has at least $5k in credit limit. I'm not kidding.
BUT, the rep was very helpful, and said she could just transfer $1k in limits from one of my other Chase cards to the Disney and then apply the product downgrade, which she did. So I'm glad I didn't already lower the limits on my other Chase cards.

* I think the reason it took me so long to do this is I'm just fond of the card. Though it doesn't provide good value, it has that Disney connection, and it was probably my gateway card that started me looking for value back from cards and made me wiling to pay a fee to get a SUB and a better return on spend. It also helped that the fee is pretty low as annual fees go. But still, there was no need to keep paying it as I get better return on spend for every category for which it has the 2% return..
 
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Thanks for this. I don't think we have any branches will have to look. I don't have interest in any of their other cards (since AA is now not happening). I did see the 24 months since closing a card. So, this will be a one and done (rinse and repeat every few years...possibly) Would be a good way to get some Disney Tickets paid for.
I was wondering about this card - after the first year if there was any benefit to keeping it to offset the AF?
 
I was wondering about this card - after the first year if there was any benefit to keeping it to offset the AF?

Sometimes Citi will give you a retention offer/spend bonus to keep it open, but as far as ongoing benefits, no. Of course, the problem is closing it resets the clock, and PCing it might reset the clock depending on how Citi does it, so if you're in it for the long term churn you have to possibly be prepared to pay the AF for no return.
 
And, as expected, my 35k Marriott FNC that I’ve been looking forward to since my card anniversary in November finally posted to my account today. That makes it a 91 day wait.

For those of you who have been waiting 8-12 weeks now for your Amex Bonvoy FNC to post, you might want to check your Marriott account since Amex tends to deposit the FNCs in monthly batches.
Yes, mine is there too. Thank you!
 
So yesterday I sent a SM to Chase asking to reduce the credit limit on my Disney Premier Visa to $4k and to product switch to the no-fee version, which I've been meaning to do since forever.* They responded saying they can't do PCs via SM ("call the number on the back of the card") but they could do the limit reduction, which they did. Then today I called the number on the card to do the PC, and was told .. .. .. .. you can't PC unless the card has at least $5k in credit limit. I'm not kidding.
BUT, the rep was very helpful, and said she could just transfer $1k in limits from one of my other Chase cards to the Disney and then apply the product downgrade, which she did. So I'm glad I didn't already lower the limits on my other Chase cards.

* I think the reason it took me so long to do this is I'm just fond of the card. Though it doesn't provide good value, it has that Disney connection, and it was probably my gateway card that started me looking for value back from cards and made me wiling to pay a fee to get a SUB and a better return on spend. It also helped that the fee is pretty low as annual fees go. But still, there was no need to keep paying it as I get better return on spend for every category for which it has the 2% return..
Yeah - you're quickly learning the nuances of product changes. They do have to be done over the phone and most cards will require some sort of minimum CL to do it. Transferring CL from other cards makes it easy to accomplish though! Most of us just do exactly what you did, I usually do it before calling to PC to avoid having to handle it then. Others like to do it all at once on the call. CSR seems to require a $10k credit limit unless something has changed. Many others are $5k.
 
Update to the Program Details on Chase Support Links:
In the Program Details section when generating a Southwest OR Freedom/Freedom Unlimited support link you now see the following language:
  • You are not eligible for a [support] bonus if you use your own [support link] URL to apply for a different card.
We have obviously cautioned against using your own support link with Chase ever since the whole clawback situation popped up with Amex. This should just serve as a further caution to AVOID that! It's not worth the risk/scrutiny. This language does not appear on the Ink business card pages BUT I would still avoid it there as well!

Cross-support between spouses, friends or a trading partner obviously is still safe in all scenarios!
 
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Preparing for my 4 year CSR renewal in the fall of this year, am I able to PC the CSR to a CSP, then re-apply for the CSR? Or do I just apply for the CSP? Ideally I'd like the additional URs a CSR gets and I do make use of the benefits of the card. I have no need for both a CSP and a CSR.
 
Preparing for my 4 year CSR renewal in the fall of this year, am I able to PC the CSR to a CSP, then re-apply for the CSR? Or do I just apply for the CSP? Ideally I'd like the additional URs a CSR gets and I do make use of the benefits of the card. I have no need for both a CSP and a CSR.
None of the above 🤣

You cannot hold an active CSP OR CSR and attempt to apply for either card - you will be denied for currently holding a sapphire card. If you currently hold a CSR, CSP or both, you will need to PC all of the above to CF or CFU (or Slate if you're weird, lol), and then you will be able to apply for the cards you wish (i.e. CSR or CSP or both via MDD if that is still a working strategy at the time).
 
Preparing for my 4 year CSR renewal in the fall of this year, am I able to PC the CSR to a CSP, then re-apply for the CSR? Or do I just apply for the CSP? Ideally I'd like the additional URs a CSR gets and I do make use of the benefits of the card. I have no need for both a CSP and a CSR.

No.

It's called the "One Sapphire Rule."

The offer terms provide: The product is not available to either

(i) current cardmembers of any Sapphire credit card, or

(ii) previous cardmembers of any Sapphire credit card who received a new cardmember bonus within the last 48 months.

So if you were to PC a CSR to a CSP, you would still have a Sapphire credit card (a CSP), which would make you ineligible for a new CSR. To avoid ending up with a Sapphire card that would make you ineligible for a new CSR, PC your old CSR to a CF or CFU before applying fo a new CSR.

When you apply for a new CSR, consider a MDD with a CSP.*

If you have no idea what I'm talking about, see DISchurners.
 
Sometimes Citi will give you a retention offer/spend bonus to keep it open, but as far as ongoing benefits, no. Of course, the problem is closing it resets the clock, and PCing it might reset the clock depending on how Citi does it, so if you're in it for the long term churn you have to possibly be prepared to pay the AF for no return.
Ok, I am confused, why is resetting the clock a problem? Isn't that what I would want to be able to churn the card again?
 
Ok, I am confused, why is resetting the clock a problem? Isn't that what I would want to be able to churn the card again?
The clock starts when you earn the bonus OR close OR change the card. So if you earn the bonus May 2019, you can get one again May 2021. However, if you close the card May 2020, now your clock bumps to May 2022.
 
Got annoyed I could not pull any of the AMEX incognito offers over the weekend (tried so many different ways) and applied for Citi Premier....after getting 7-10 days and being impatient I called just now and approved!

Also Baby Watch is in full effect.....one day past due date already.
 
I may have missed this being reported, but the SW support links appear to be back to the regular 40k for personal cards and 60k and 70k for the biz cards.
 
Not sure if anyone is interested, but I will be applying for the United Explorer card before 4/2 and I saw a way of getting an additional 2,500 points. Worth a shot!

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https://slickdeals.net/f/13820720-u...s-w-3k-spent-in-first-3-months?src=frontpage#

Thanks! I'm thinking about having DH apply for the Explorer. He's got a modest stash of United miles, but I never book out of his account because I always get better flight/award options in my account as a MileagePlus cardholder. His having the Explorer with its two free bags will also allow me to downgrade my Club card to the Explorer card and still get free bags for all 4 of us if I book our flights using both accounts (2 and 2). I've been holding on to the Club for the 4 free bags and the United Club access, but United has made so many negative changes to the Club rules (since late last year, have to actually be flying on United to use the Club and, more recently, cutting access to international Star Alliance lounges) that I'm now willing to downgrade it.
 
I look at it no different than transferring to airlines vs booking via portal. Which one will cost me more points. When we did the Park Hyatt Tokyo last year it was 30k per night. That was far less points than what I needed via the UR portal because the hotel was over $1,000 per night.



We tend to stick to Radisson Blu in Europe. I loved our points stay in Dublin so much that we are going back again rather than trying out a different property. Europe Radisson Blu properties are the reason DH and I each have the Radisson Rewards Premier VISA cards. It’s a sock drawer card but those 40k anniversary points on each card each year are quite handy for our Europe trips. The card gives you gold status so you get early check in, late checkout and upgrades.

By any chance have you tried to get into the US Bank website on line recently? I tried over the weekend and then today and it says the site is down today. I was just doing my random check of my accounts and paying off little bits that I charge here and there. It doesn't appear that I am locked out, just that the site is down.
 
Also keep in mind point redemptions through Hyatt will waive resort fees if the hotel ur staying at has them.

For breakfast at Hyatt places, they don't really check haha. Been to 3 and u just walk in.

Yes, that is how it is done now. But, the breakfast rule just went into effect in the last year or so, to exclude bookings through 3rd parties. So I would think if it becomes an issue for them they might start passing out coupons or something.
 
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