How to shoot fireworks

[ddisney333]

We usually stand to the right of the statue of Walt and Mickey over in one of the side paths before the bridge to Tomorrow Land. I was thinking of maybe standing up at the train station where you come into MK. Do you have any suggestions? Thanks for the help.

 

[AbbysFamily]

Ok, so something just occurred to me. I have the S2 IS with no possibility of a remote shutter release. This is a problem. However, lets say I set my shutter speed to 3 seconds, hit the shutter opening with a black piece of paper in front of the lens, then immediately take the paper away. Would this work to stop the initial camera shake from the shutter release, or would it even matter since the S2 has Image Stabilization anyways? Just curious.

Andy

Actually those of us with S2s have another option - setup your shutter speed, etc. then setup the delay function. It will make timing a bit harder, but you can press the button then know that the shutter will release after the shake is gone.

Definately not as nice as even the wired release I HAD with my 35mm rebel, but better than nothing.

Dean (aka AlphaGeek to my friends)

 

[Groucho]

I agree on the stickies thing. I know our moderator is around somewhere, but I've never seen a suggestion for a sticky actually become a sticky. this leads to some topics coming up every week or even more often - fireworks, SpectroMagic, basic camera functionality, etc. I certainly don't blame the posters since the search functionality is so broken here, and there's enough activity that it's a pain to look past the first page or two of posts.

It would be great to start the "official fireworks thread" and "official SpectroMagic thread" and official "why does my camera stink at low-light photos thread" and have a sticky with links to each of them. It would also make it easier to point someone who does ask the questions in a new thread to the "main" thread, rather than having dozens of threads with virtually the same information in them with only slight differences, and no way to easily tell which is the "best" thread.

OK, enough "bookkeeping" grousing. Here's the SpectroMagic thread.

For fireworks, you definitely want a wide angle, both for Wishes (since you'll probably want the castle in frame, as well) and for Illuminations. Heck, I used my 16mm fisheye for a showing of each last trip.

I have to disagree slightly with Kyle, I don't think it should be necessary to bump up the ISO levels if you're not using a tripod, you still should be able to get a half-way decent photo depending on the amount of fireworks going off at any given time.

Ok, so something just occurred to me. I have the S2 IS with no possibility of a remote shutter release. This is a problem. However, lets say I set my shutter speed to 3 seconds, hit the shutter opening with a black piece of paper in front of the lens, then immediately take the paper away. Would this work to stop the initial camera shake from the shutter release, or would it even matter since the S2 has Image Stabilization anyways? Just curious.

If you're doing a three-second exposure, I assume that the camera will be on a tripod or gorillapod or similar... in which case, you'd ideally want to turn image stabilization off, as it may attempt to counteract the tripod.

As for the paper, it probably depends on how stable the camera is and how long it takes to stop moving after you press the shutter. If it's very stable, it may stop vibrating very quickly and you'll have success with that; otherwise it may still be shaking very slightly - probably not enough to make a big difference though.

A potential danger is that you could underexpose the photo as it's configured itself to get a properly-exposed 3-sec photo and you're letting it work for less than three seconds - but with fireworks, the light is so variable that it can't predict that anyway. You also would probably have to do a half-press of the shutter, then put the paper in front (after it's metered the scene and focused if not set to manual focus), then put the black paper in front of the lens and press the shutter the rest of the way.

 

[pixiestarr]

I just bought a Sony Cybershot H-9. It has a feature on it so you can take pictures of fireworks. Does anyone know if this feature works well, how can you take the best pictures of fireworks at night and capture the colors without blurriness????
Please help.
Has anyone used the firework mode on this camera and have pictures????
I took just a regular picture in the light with it, and everything was blurry, is this normal????
Thanks

 

[pixiestarr]

Anyone? please?

 

[LPZ_Stitch!]

The fireworks mode probably works the same on most cameras, it sets it up with a fairly long shutter time (about 2 secs.) and that's what accounts for your blurry normal pics.

To get the best fireworks pics with that mode, you probably need to use a tripod. It's designed to leave the shutter open for (roughly) the entire time a firework explodes. Because the continue to expand, the long shutter time works....

I'm fairly sure that the H9 has some of the same modes as my Canon S3 (Aperture Priority and Shutter Speed Priority) and I've seen on threads about the S3 that you can get very nice fireworks pics by using the Av mode to open the aperture as wide as it will go and getting shutter times of about 1/4 of a second (about as slow as you can go and still get a decent pic hand-held).

I've even seen really nice fireworks pics in fireworks mode that were done handheld, so it's definitely possible!

 

[nbodyhome]

My fireworks photos here: http://www.mousesteps.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=23&Itemid=37

were all hand-held on auto with the S2. The best thing to do is to experiment with your camera. Mine does just fine handheld, though I may bring a tripod next time and see what other types of fireworks shots I can get.

 

[pixiestarr]

The tripod just helps with the movement right? It keeps the camera steady?
How would I open the aperture all the way? How should the shutter speed be set?
Could anyone tell me how to get night pictures without so much noise? They are not crisp and clear.
Thanks

 

[nbodyhome]

The tripod helps with the movement, it allows you to keep the camera still for longer shots. You may not need that to get decent fireworks photos, but it will allow for more variety of your photos.

A number of years ago, I used to bring my tripod to the parks to take fireworks photos. I experimented, but started with a few websites that gave suggestions. You should get to know your camera - when I was heading to Europe, I brought the booklet that came with my camera and learned a few new things I could use to make my photos better. I learned that on my camera, I could get better night shots with the night function (hard to believe! ) I could get better indoor photos with the indoor function. Read the information that came with your camera to begin with. I don't know anything about noise, I don't worry so much about that.

 

[GrumpyOne]

If you use a tripod, be sure to turn off image stabilization. If you don't your camera may interpret general electrical noise as camera shake and adjust as required, even though there is no vibration. This leads to "I used a tripod and some of my pictures were still blurry" syndrome.

 

[Groucho]

Here's a demonstration of the differences with and without a tripod...

This was taken with my old Minolta Z5, which was fairly similar to the current crop of long-zooms - 5mp, 12x, image stabilization. This was completely handheld, and was probably just in "auto" mode.

That was one of the best fireworks shots I got (though admittedly, I didn't take a ton of them). The exposure time was 4/10ths of a second.

Now, here's one with my DSLR on a tripod. A fair amount of the improved quality is from the difference in the camera, but the tripod gives you both a nice, stable background (it's important to use a remote shutter release or, if one's not available for your camera, use the two-second timer so that you don't jar the camera when pressing the shutter), and it gives you the ability to have long light trails behind the fireworks.

If your camera has a "bulb" mode, that's the best IMHO as you can hold the shutter open for as long as you want to, so you don't have to worry about the shutter closing just before a big explosion.

Hopefully that helps explain things. You certainly can do OK without a tripod, but the tripod just helps bring things to the next level.

 

[nbodyhome]

These were also taken without a tripod.

 

[LPZ_Stitch!]

The tripod just helps with the movement right? It keeps the camera steady?

Yes.

How would I open the aperture all the way? How should the shutter speed be set?

Your camera probably has either a Manual mode or a Av mode (Aperture Priority) ... the smaller the number the wider the aperture. You should be aiming for the lowest possible number for the given zoom. Until you're familiar with how to set all of the settings for your camera, I'd stick with Aperture Priority mode for low-light situations.

Could anyone tell me how to get night pictures without so much noise? They are not crisp and clear.

The noise is from setting your ISO higher. Most of the P&S cameras do this automatically (especially in Auto mode).

The trick to good night photos with a P&S are to use the widest possible apertures with the slowest shutter speeds you can manage before setting the ISO to the highest amount of noise you can tolerate.

For example, on my Canon S3 I don't want to go above ISO400 because ISO800 is just too noisy. Even with ISO400, I'll probably be running my pics through Noiseware; so I'll be trying to get settings that will allow me to stay at ISO200.

The best thing to do is get comfortable with the different quality-levels for your camera. Take multiple pictures of the same scene using different combinations of Aperture/Shutter Speed/ISO so you'll understand the relationship between them. Definitely take shots at multiple ISO settings to be able to just how noisy the pics are likely to be.

 

[PNWmom]

What kind of tripod are you using? The one we have is huge even folded up.

 

[MarkBarbieri]

This is the first of a series of posts focused on how to shoot different shows, attractions, rides, and events at Disney Theme Parks. The purpose is to help people learn how to shoot those things with their camera and what they can reasonably expect from their camera. If it works as well as I hope, it can also be a way for people to see what they might get for spending more money and learning time on different cameras.

On this forum, we run the gamut from cell phone cameras to high end DSLRs with rediculously large lenses. I'm hoping that we'll get a variety of posts from people with cameras in all ranges. Even if you feel that your photos don't measure up to what others have posted, please post some samples anyway. We're all at different levels of gear and skill and we can all learn from each other. A typical S3 user will probably learn more from your S3 shot than they will from Oblio's latest masterpiece.

Other posts in this series include:
How To Shoot: The Safari Ride
How To Shoot: Parades
How To Shoot: Indoor Shows
How To Shoot: Cinderella's Castle
How To Shoot: SpectroMagic
How To Shoot: Dark Rides

This first subject is probably the most asked about photo opportunity on this forum. How do I shoot fireworks? Sadly for me, it's also one for which I don't have any decent digital photos, so I'll be primarily a spectator.

Please post your tips on how to shoot fireworks along with examples of shots where you followed those tips. Don't be afraid to show screwups either. We can learn just as much from seeing what not to do and we can from seeing what to do.

 

[MarkBarbieri]

OK, I guess I'll get things started with some "not-to-do's".

Here's a shot i took with my Canon 10D using a 17-40mm lens at f/4.0, an ISO of 800, and a shutter speed of 1/4s. Obviously, I was shooting handheld.

Some things that I did wrong include:

1) Shooting with an obstruction in my way. I can't remember if I was just careless or didn't have much time to get a good spot. It's important to stake out a place where you'll have an unobstructed view of the castle and the sky around it.

2) Not using a tripod. If you want good fireworks shots, there is no substitute. You can use a small one and put it on a trashcan or some other object. You can use a gorillapod and wrap it on something.

3) I think the exposure was OK, but if I had a tripod I would adjust the parameters a bit. I'd probably have shot at ISO 400 to reduce noise and f/5.6 to gain a little sharpness. That would leave me with a shutter speed of 1 second, which is plenty of time for nice firework trails. As a general rule, I'd try to be a stop down from wide open, at an ISO level that shows no noise, and let the shutter speed make it work. If the shutter speed got too long, I'd sacrifice aperture before I'd give up on ISO.

4) It looks like I was shooting in program mode, which is something I wouldn't do again. I'd meter on the castle, switch to manual, and underexpose by 2/3 stops. I'd check the histogram frequently. I would try to get as brightly exposed as possible without getting blinkies (over-exposed parts). It's easy to overexpose the firework trails and lose the color in them.

An interesting technique that you might use if you have room is to shoot someone in the foreground. The trick is to use the flash to illuminate them while still exposing for the castle and the fireworks. Set up your exposure for the castle and the fireworks. The camera should, if all goes well, illuminate the foreground object with the flash and keep the shutter open long enough for the castle and fireworks to expose properly. I've never done that at WDW, but here's a shot of a friend lighting some bottlerockets. It's a scan of a film shot I took with a Minolta 7i about 20 years ago. The flash captured him in the moment he was lighting the bottlerockets and then he ran off while the rest of the photo was exposed.

 

[Michele]

I have a few recent shots. I have a Digital Rebel and right before our trip in April I got a new lens, Canon 50mm f/1.8. Unfortunately, I am not knowledgeable enough to explain exactly how I got these pics, I can provide the exif info. I usually change up the setting, kind of trial and error. These are all handheld. My location for these first 2 shots was too close for the 50mm, so I could only get part of the castle in the pics. I like the look of it in these two though.
f1.8 1/200 sec. ISO 100 I guess this one is not really a fireworks shot, but I like how the castle is illuminated by the fireworks.

f1.8 1/100 sec. ISO 100

Our trip in May I stood a bit further back from the castle and got these. I wish the castle was brighter in these.
f/5 1/320 sec. ISO 800

f/5.6 1/400 sec. ISO 800

And here is my favorite from Hallowishes last September.
f/10 2 sec. ISO 100

 

[Cdn Friends of Pooh]

My first time at taking fireworks pics with our new Rebel XTi was during Wishes this past May, and unfortunately I can't share how exactly I took these as I was just "playing" with the settings. All were handheld (would definitely use a tripod or gorillapod next time) with continuous shooting using the kit lens. I ended up taking almost 200 photos during the show, with probably 75% of them turning out OK.

f/5.0 1/40 sec 1600 ISO

f/4.5 1/10 sec 1600 ISO

f/4.0 1/4 sec 1600 ISO

f/7.1 1/80 sec 1600 ISO

I welcome any criticism and suggestions on how to improve.

Bonny

 

[Groucho]

I prefer "bulb" mode to "manual" mode (I believe some cameras don't have a separate mode for bulb, but set it as a shutter speed instead.)

The big difference here is that you determine how long you want your shot to be. For example, you can start the shot during one particular burst and stop when it's done, not when the camera's done. Example:

The thing that makes this a little different is that because you don't know what the shutter speed will be, you can't perfectly predict the exposure. This is OK IMHO, because the very nature of fireworks means that exposure changes dramatically from one moment to the next. If there are many fireworks going off at once, you take a shorter picture... and if it's a quieter moment, you can hold the shutter open longer. Of course, with the castle in the foreground, there will be times when the castle is properly exposed and the fireworks are over or underexposed, and times when the fireworks are perfect but the castle is over or underexposed. This is, again, unavoidable due to the ever-changing light. Here's an example of a nicely exposed castle and overexposed fireworks.

Here's one with a slightly underexposed castle but more properly exposed fireworks.

Of course, this technique pretty much requires a remote shutter release. I was able to set the camera on the tripod before the fireworks, then just stand back and hit the button on the remote to fire off the shots, no need to even check the viewfinder. The camera itself was set for F8 and ISO 200 and manually focused.

One thing to also think about is maybe trying to shoot from a different location. The obvious place is right center in front of the castle, but I've seen some really interesting photos from other angles. Next trip, I hope to take some from behind the castle - say, Tomorrowland or Frontierland. You can also get some neat photos completely outside the MK. These are from the beach at the Polynesian - we weren't staying, we just visited one night.

Also - most of these techniques are assuming that you're trying to shoot Wishes (or Remember... Dreams Come True), but they should work fine for any fireworks, including Illuminations - but that one is a bit trickier as you're closer to the action, so if using a tripod, you either need a very wide lens, or you may want to re-frame the camera sometimes, to capture the fireworks at water level or the ones in the sky.

 

[nbodyhome]

I took these, handheld on auto with my S2:

They aren't the best fireworks shots I've ever taken in my life, but I thought they were great for being essentially point and shoot!!!!! I plan to take my tripod when I stay in September and will have plenty of evening time to take photos. I have more of the fireworks ones here: http://www.mousesteps.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=23&Itemid=37

I used to take my SLR and a tripod to the parks, a number of years ago and have a few beautiful shots still laying around. But the computer that held all the scanned images died a few years back, and most are gone.