How to haggle on a new car

I never negotiate on just the price of the car. I negotiate an "out the door" price that includes everything. Its the easiest way to avoid all the hassle over fees, etc.

I've found that the 'out the door' price will include: taxes (depends on state), tags (depends on state, maybe $100 or so), delivery fee (Toyota was $795 in my area) and dealer fee ($499 where I was). These are things that they probably won't negotiate, so find out what they are so you can add them into your price mentally.

Then you have the warranties. Extend the warranty. Undercarriage. Paint coating. Etc. Every where I've been, these are presented by a different person, so your sales person will play dumb. Know what is important to you when you go in.

Go to a bank ahead of time - even online. Do you have outstanding credit? You will probably get the low end of the rates that you see available. Can you use excel? If so, calculate what monthly payments will be at various principle amounts, various interest rates and different terms. (36 mos, 48 mos, 60 mos, 72 mos.) That way you have an idea of where you want to be when you walk in. If dealer financing is available at about the rates you're finding at banks, go ahead and use them. Dealers love that and are more likely to give you on other stuff.
 
A few things I'll offer:

* Never mix trade discussions with the purchase discussions. Keep them separate transactions entirely. If at all possible, sell your existing vehicle separately, as you will almost certainly get more for it doing so. Yes, its a bit of a hassle, but its worth the $$.

* When negotiating, always work *up from invoice*, NEVER *down from sticker*. Invoice is as close as you can get to a dealer's real cost, which is much much lower due to things like holdbacks (around 1-3% depending upon model), floor plan allowances (varies widely) and other incentives.

* CR's car pricing service can be invaluable, although similar information is often available from some credit unions and other sources.

* If you opt for a long-term vehicle warranty, get it from the manufacturer, not the dealer. A manufacturer's warranty will be honored at any corresponding dealership, where one from a dealer may only be honored at a handful of locations anywhere. I, personally, am not a fan of what I term "blackmail money" and do not encourage people to purchase such warranties - esp with so many vehicles now being offered with long-term stock warranties.

* Arrange your financing in advance, preferably from a credit union. In the view of the dealership, that makes you a cash customer. Weight that carefully against dealer financing at 0% or with rebates. That's something you just have to sit down and punch out on a calculator - no one perfect rule fits here.

For my last vehicle, a 2008 Sienna, I did my cost research, got invoice numbers, computed my estimates of holdbacks and incentives, and then calculated what I believed to be a reasonable price I'd pay. I then created a temporary gmail account and sent RFP's to three dealerships telling them a) exactly the model, color, and options I wanted, and b) to provide their best and final offer/"take price" on the vehicle, inclusive of ANY and ALL add-ons such as ridiculous "Dealer prep fees" and "paperwork fees" and "advertising charges." Those are all three code for "extra profit extracted from consumer."

Within 24 hours, I received three replies - one offer was out of sight ridiculous, one was meh, and one was within, as I recall $100 (perhaps less) of my computations. Told him I'd accept the offer, would tender him a check to secure the deal the next day, and it was delivered the following Saturday. They tried to zap me with the prep fee when I picked it up, and I showed them the printout of my offer sheet that said their offer was inclusive of all such fees, and they dropped it.

The "winning" dealer in this case was one of the few dealers in town at that time that had a real Internet presence, and I happened to sneak a peek at a dry-erase board in a back office that had salesmen's names on it with "sales tickmarks" - one sales names was "Internet" and it had easily three times the number of ticks the rest of them did. It was a nearly flawless transaction and I was entirely satisfied with the deal.

A few other thoughts: Some folks believe dealerships will really work to get cars off the lot that have been around awhile, when in reality the reverse is true. The longer a car sits in inventory, the more finance charges the dealer rolls up to the manufacturer, thus the less likely they'll be willing to offer a near-invoice deal. Snag a vehicle when its coming off the truck, as it were, and you're likely to get more latitude.

My very first car was purchased "pre-Internet" with my having gone to a dealer, invoice and holdback numbers in hand, with my telling the salesman that I'd purchase "that" car (to which I pointed) for exactly "this* amount of money (and not one penny more), and handed them my pricing worksheet. The sales guy looked at it, disappeared for a second, came back and said "we'll do it." I was out the door with my new car in an hour.

Bottom line: Information is power, and dealerships rely on customers not having it. Good luck.
 
My very first car was purchased "pre-Internet" with my having gone to a dealer, invoice and holdback numbers in hand, with my telling the salesman that I'd purchase "that" car (to which I pointed) for exactly "this* amount of money (and not one penny more), and handed them my pricing worksheet. The sales guy looked at it, disappeared for a second, came back and said "we'll do it." I was out the door with my new car in an hour.

Bottom line: Information is power, and dealerships rely on customers not having it. Good luck.

Yet, what is amazing to me is how many people that don't negotiate at all. They pay sticker price.
 
Yet, what is amazing to me is how many people that don't negotiate at all. They pay sticker price.


1) I do not need to negotiate.
2) My prices come right from the dealer's computer and are great.
3) And, they cannot increase the price or make add-on profit(s).

4) But, I still do my research.
5) I have found out there are times you can do better than great.
 

I have seen it mentioned a few times from PP's, but the one item of advice I would call out again is to NOT negotiate at the dealership.

Email several dealerships and get their best price on similar models at other dealerships and let the fun begin. You will end up with one dealer that will go the lowest and no one else will budge.

If financing, get the loan from the bank before you go and it should only take about 45 minutes at the dealership to pick up your shiny new car. :thumbsup2
 
This is some great advice. Not to hijack, but as we are currently in market for used vehicle for DD in college, what advice would you offer?
 
I worked at a dealership many years ago, and the biggest profit margin is on used cars. A friend of mine is planning to buy an inexpensive new car so she doesn't have to go through the haggling and worrying about what problems she may be taking on with a used vehicle. However, there are some very good deals out there if you do your homework and/or know a dealer or someone who works for a dealer. We did some research and went to a dealer we know (where I bought a new truck earlier), and we got excellent deals on a used truck for my son and a used SUV for my daughter. We were confident that the dealer had checked out the vehicles thoroughly, and my kids are still driving the vehicles we bought together after 12 and 8 years with few repairs. Edmunds is a good source, and always check out the Carfax on the vehicle you are considering. Most if not all dealers will show it to you.
 
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This is some great advice. Not to hijack, but as we are currently in market for used vehicle for DD in college, what advice would you offer?

Yeah, I was going to ask the same thing. DD18 is currently using my Jeep 1996, for work and local driving. We actually put too much money into it recently, but we were stuck and needed a vehicle ASAP.

So now, I am looking for a really good deal on a used SUV crossover. We definitely need 4WD or AWD.

Can the suggestions in this thread work for used cars as well?
 


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