How long do you keep your cars?

[mrodgers]

Interesting, the most recent Consumer Reports survey (April 2010) put Ford ahead of Toyota, Honda, Lexus and Acura in reliability.
And if it's new, it should still all be under warranty.

New as in I bought it new. 36,000 mile warranty and at around 36,000 miles I had to replace all 4 rotors, not cut but replace (not a warranty issue anyways.) That was about $500 including pads (parts only.) I count that because it had only 36k miles on it. Never had to replace rotors before and I haven't owned a vehicle yet that had less than 170,000 miles when I sold it. Bushing was slightly torn in the control arm, replace bushing? Nope, replace the entire control arm, $169 for part only. That was at 60k miles. Week later the speed sensor ring broke rendering the brakes useless and the vehicle undriveable because of stupid anti-lock brakes kicking in as soon as you hit the brakes, aka, no stopping. $5 replacement for the speed sensor ring? Nope, have to replace the entire axle, was $69 I think and more work than I could handle since I had just had the suspension torn apart the previous week and didn't want to go through that hassle again. So I also spent $90 on labor.

As for an 89 Toyota, 88 Toyota, 94 Toyota, 99 Toyota, and 96 Nissan, I've replaced 2 rotors (165,000 miles, same day I replaced the junk Ford at 36,000 miles) for $250. Clutch went into one of the Toyotas at $130. That's all I replaced on 5 vehicles with a combined total of almost 500,000 miles on them other than normal routine maintenance like tires, brake pads, and shocks/struts.

Total of $380 in 5 vehicles and 500,000 miles or roughly $740 not including labor in less than 60,000 miles on the Ford. I think the math is pretty simple along with the fact that none of the Japanese cars had ever broken like the control arm or sensor ring of the Ford rendering the vehicles undriveable. You can argue about the rotors being a normal maintenance thing, but I don't consider it normal when the vehicle only has 36,000 miles. I bought new because I didn't want to have to do all the "normal maintenance" on major stuff for a while. Turns out, I would probably have been better off with a 100,000 mile Japanese car because the big maintenance items still wouldn't have been done as early.

BTW, those Ford rotors are still sitting in my garage where they've been sitting for a year now next to the 165,000 mile Nissan rotors. I have a bunch of scrap metal to take to the recycler, thus I went to pick them up to put with the rest of the scrap metal. They literally are nearly completely gone and just a pile of rust. Not rusty hunks of metal, but literally a pile of rust. I swept up my old Ford rotors with a broom and dustpan, then picked up the Nissan rotors that still look the same as when I removed them from the car except for some rust on the surface like you would expect. All I have left from the Ford is the center hub part, the actual disc section is gone.

 

[golfgal]

New as in I bought it new. 36,000 mile warranty and at around 36,000 miles I had to replace all 4 rotors, not cut but replace (not a warranty issue anyways.) That was about $500 including pads (parts only.) I count that because it had only 36k miles on it. Never had to replace rotors before and I haven't owned a vehicle yet that had less than 170,000 miles when I sold it. Bushing was slightly torn in the control arm, replace bushing? Nope, replace the entire control arm, $169 for part only. That was at 60k miles. Week later the speed sensor ring broke rendering the brakes useless and the vehicle undriveable because of stupid anti-lock brakes kicking in as soon as you hit the brakes, aka, no stopping. $5 replacement for the speed sensor ring? Nope, have to replace the entire axle, was $69 I think and more work than I could handle since I had just had the suspension torn apart the previous week and didn't want to go through that hassle again. So I also spent $90 on labor.

As for an 89 Toyota, 88 Toyota, 94 Toyota, 99 Toyota, and 96 Nissan, I've replaced 2 rotors (165,000 miles, same day I replaced the junk Ford at 36,000 miles) for $250. Clutch went into one of the Toyotas at $130. That's all I replaced on 5 vehicles with a combined total of almost 500,000 miles on them other than normal routine maintenance like tires, brake pads, and shocks/struts.

Total of $380 in 5 vehicles and 500,000 miles or roughly $740 not including labor in less than 60,000 miles on the Ford. I think the math is pretty simple along with the fact that none of the Japanese cars had ever broken like the control arm or sensor ring of the Ford rendering the vehicles undriveable. You can argue about the rotors being a normal maintenance thing, but I don't consider it normal when the vehicle only has 36,000 miles. I bought new because I didn't want to have to do all the "normal maintenance" on major stuff for a while. Turns out, I would probably have been better off with a 100,000 mile Japanese car because the big maintenance items still wouldn't have been done as early.

BTW, those Ford rotors are still sitting in my garage where they've been sitting for a year now next to the 165,000 mile Nissan rotors. I have a bunch of scrap metal to take to the recycler, thus I went to pick them up to put with the rest of the scrap metal. They literally are nearly completely gone and just a pile of rust. Not rusty hunks of metal, but literally a pile of rust. I swept up my old Ford rotors with a broom and dustpan, then picked up the Nissan rotors that still look the same as when I removed them from the car except for some rust on the surface like you would expect. All I have left from the Ford is the center hub part, the actual disc section is gone.

Our old '89 Toyota Corolla was a GEM. We replaced the starter-that was it in 16 years of ownership. When we sold it the guy had to put in a new fuel pump but that is all he has done to it since buying it from us 6 years ago.

 

[arminnie]

Tis the difference between you and me. I'm in Pennsylvania and rust is an issue.

I got transferred to PA with an older car. The repair guys just couldn't believe I didn't have any rust. Is the rust from the salt? I didn't drive my car much (mainly because I kept having it broken into and some part missing) so I didn't get rust from my one winter there.

I bought a new '71 Cutlass convertible that I loved. That was back when they stopped making convertibles a few years later. I probably would have bought a new car, but I didn't want a sedan so I kept that Cutlass for almost 20 years. I sold it for more than I paid for it.

I bought a very expensive Olds Toronado as a replacement. What a mistake. That thing stranded me so many times. A total lemon. Every repair was at least $600 and that was 20 years ago.

That's when I switched to Hondas. I didn't know that you could actually take a 300 mile trip and not have to be towed about every other trip. I buy Hondas new because the used ones keep their value so much that there is not much of a discount.

I get a new car at the 10 year mark just because I want to. They are still serviceable - but I usually want something newer by then. I remember when I sold my Accord and got my first Odyssey - I was so happy to get cupholders! I won't be getting a new car for a few more years, but I would love to have a car that had an ipod input. I know I could go get a new sound system in the aftermarket, but I probably won't.

I really got used to NOT having a car payment when I kept that Cutlass for so long. I almost paid cash for it anyway. I financed it for 5 months!

 

[DeniseinNS]

We get new vehicles way too often lol, I'v had a few lemons over the years. In the last 10 years we've had:

1999 Pontiac Sunfire
2002 Honda Civic
2004 Chevy Aveo
2006 Caravan (traded Civic)
2007 Corolla (traded Aveo) HUBBY'S CURRENT CAR
2008 Caravan (after lease on 2006 Caravan)
2010 Santa Fe (after lease on 2008 Caravan) MY CURRENT CAR
getting another vehicle in the spring when the Corolla lease is up

 

[baileykelly]

I got my first car in 1999, it was a 1997 Mustang. I kept that until 2008, when I got my first new car, a 2008 Escape. I never really had any problems with the Mustang, it was just time for a car that was more comfortable. I plan on keeping my Escape for at least as long, or longer, than I had the Mustang.

 

[KathyTX]

I usually get new car fever at around the 3-4 year mark... Can't beat that new-car smell!!

 

[Squirlz]

My history has been anywhere from 2 to 20 years. We will have our two 2005 MINIs forever. When we get newer MINIs they might become track toys.

 

[brasswillow]

Until pieces literally fall off. My last car had pieces falling off as I was driving down the road. (The transmission was also working loose so I was advised not to start or stop to fast because it might break loose.) The car I have now will probably be with me for many years to come.

 

[mommy2allgirls]

We buy when the car dies or if there is a real need. We replaced our van a few years ago because one time I had to stop fast and the seatbelt holding my dd carseat to the car failed. Other than that instance we buy until dead and we also buy used

 

[pirateofthecarolinas]

10-15 because DH is an engineer. At his office it seems to be a competition!

 

[powellrj]

Dh and I both have cars that we drive under employer auto plans and they require us to have vehicles under 4 years or 100,000 miles, so it seems we are always buying a new car.

 

[Darcy03231]

I live in the Northeast and rust is an issue for us.

My last car I had for 8 years. I traded it in last summer for a new one under the cash for clunkers program. It was an SUV that had multiple big issues (transmission slipping, leaking/burning oil) and we decided that it wasn't worth fixing for us. It also got about 14 mpg.

Car before that was 18 years old and had over 200,000 miles on it when I traded it for the SUV.

Right now we have a 1987, 2004, 2005 and 2009. I don't expect to be buying anything else for at least another 10 years.

 

[GaSleepingBeautyFan]

We drive ours until they give us so much trouble, they aren't worth it. I had a plymouth voyager that had over 200,000 miles and finally had to get rid of it when it started breaking down once a month.

I now have a 2008 toyota highlander that I expect will last me a nice long time.

My husband drives a Honda Accord and keeps saying he wants a new one but I say no. In a year or 2 we'll let my son drive the old one and get husband a newer one. A well taken care of Honda Accord will last just about forever.

 

[kirbydog48]

I keep them until they embarass me!

 

[Tinijocaro]

Our cars are 42, 41, 40, 10 and 1. The truck we traded the newest car for was a '94 w/ over 250,000 miles.

I don't think OP was talking about old rusted out undriveable cars that sit in the yard for years on end.

 

[MarkBarbieri]

We typically drive ours for about 10 years. We usually upgrade when there is a good reason. My wife moved from a Civic to an Accord when we had our first child because she wanted more room. When we had our second, she got a mini-van and I traded my 11 year old Accord for her 3 year old Accord. I drove it for 6 more years and traded it for an RL because I wanted something safer and nicer.

We'll probably trade her Odyssey in for a new one in a few years because we use it for long trips and I'd prefer to have something more dependable. Our current van is pretty trashed after going 130,000 miles with messy kids in it. Those new 2011 Touring Elite's look pretty darn nice. Well, they're ugly, but they look really functional.

One of our "controls" is that we pretty much always pay cash for cars (except when we were young and cash strapped). I find that paying cash makes me think through the value proposition a lot better. Getting a new car today for money tomorrow makes upgrade too tempting. Having to save now for a car in the future helps clarify the mind.

 

[Arielle22]

Tis the difference between you and me. I'm in Pennsylvania and rust is an issue.

In the past we've purchased 5 year old cars, paid on them for 5 years, then kept an additional 5 years while paying for the 2nd car. Hence, we keep a car 10 years and the cars are 15 years old when we get rid of them.

That is the problem. 15 year old cars with 200k miles and rusted to scrap are not worth anything, thus the replacement needs to have a car payment. With interest rates on used cars, the payments are nearly what a new car is anyways. So now my wife's car was bought new, we will pay for 5 years, keep for 5 years, then trade and get a few thousand out of it as opposed to the $50 and $300 I've gotten out of my previous 2 car trades.

I do my own work on the cars. It's difficult to think to shell out $900 for a repair after you find out it will be $20 for the gasket, $30 for the belt, and about a weekend in the driveway to do the work. That's $850 for the labor in the shop and I still don't have a car all weekend or for the equivalent of 2 days.

Problem with that is in keeping a car with above 150k in the snowy areas. Bolts are rusted on and these $1000 jobs start to come up more and more (head gaskets, timing belts, water pumps, clutches, etc.) You either start paying constantly or you end up working on the car constantly. Some things took much more than a weekend for me. A head gasket or clutch is pretty simple work. Trying to diagnose an electrical sensor problem can put my car down for months.

Then obviously there is the rust problems where I live. Anywhere after 150k miles you can expect the rust to start sometime. It can surface at 150k or it can wait to 200k, depends on the car. But once it comes, there's no getting rid of it. You can temporarily fix it, but it will come back shortly, even with a professional job.

So that said, we've come to the conclusion, we would rather buy a brand new $20,000 car and trade it for $5000 than do what we previously did and buy $15,000 used cars and trade them for nothing. Same ownership lifetime, same money being spent, just much less hassle when we get to the end of the 10 year ownership term for us because of a lot less big repairs.

Oh and one more thing that I thought of. I did make a big mistake in the purchase of the new car. I paid $18k for a new Ford, which I should have known better coming from 20 years of driving Japanese vehicles. I could have bought twice the vehicle for the same price used as I did the new Ford. So, my idea of buying new and trading for a higher value later is still up in the air. Thus far, I have more money and time in repairs to the new Ford than I've had in my last 5 used Japanese vehicles. Perhaps it would be better to buy the used and trade for nothing when they are rotted out rather than buying new because I have to downgrade the quality to buy new.

I live in Southeastern MA right on the water. I have the rust problem from the salt air and from the road salt. We don't have a garage so there is no relief for our cars.

Both are cars are Mazdas. The van is 6 years old with 170k on it and my sedan is 14 years old with almost 200k on it. DH works at a dealership so any repairs are done there. The van has some small amount of rust that DH was working on this weekend.

I tell DH that the rust is the only thing keeping the sedan together so he shouldn't touch it. The sedan also is losing its clear coat on the hood so it appears to have peeling skin. The A/C broke a couple of years ago and it cost more than I wanted to pay to have it fixed. Since I take the communter train to work I only drive it a couple of miles a day and I can put up with it.

We held off replacing the sedan because we still have a loan on the van plus both daughters were in braces. We are considering replacing it in the spring or sooner if it needs any expensive repairs.

 

[robinb]

We keep our cars 5-10 years until it becomes too expensive to repair them. My Saab 9-3 convertible is 8 years old and my Mazda 5 is 4 years old.

 

[dodukes]

Until it falls apart. My last car that I was hoping to keep for a long time was totaled 3 months before the final payoff date...i was NOT a happy camper.

I know have had my current car for almost 3 years and its 7 years old.