Good camera for indoor/night shots?

teriyaki

Smackeralchick will live on forever
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Apr 8, 2006
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Disappointed in my canon elph. Outdoor photos are fine, but night time/dim lighting is awful. I'd like something that is point and shoot. I thought size was the most important thing so that I could always have it with me, but my daughter's indoor auditorium graduation photos were practically useless.:mad:

Any suggestions?:confused:

Thanks!
 
Disappointed in my canon elph. Outdoor photos are fine, but night time/dim lighting is awful. I'd like something that is point and shoot. I thought size was the most important thing so that I could always have it with me, but my daughter's indoor auditorium graduation photos were practically useless.:mad:

Any suggestions?:confused:

Thanks!

Classic question that gets asked a lot and you won't like the answer...

A P&S really can't take the type of pictures you want

See...an auditorium is fairly low light. A P&S does not have a large sensor and therefore gets "grainy" when it tries to take in more light quicker. Because of this, the ability to raise the sensitivity of the camera to light (ISO) is usually restricted to ISO 1600 at best. At this setting the picture quality is typically terrible however.

Image stabilization helps with static subjects, but certainly not for a girl walking across a stage.

DSLRs have larger sensors that are capable of taking these pictures. Even then, the kit lens might not be good enough to take the best quality pictures you may want. This is what drives us to buy more and more expensive cameras...they are so versatile in any lighting condition.

You're best bet outside a DSLR or micro 4/3's camera is a Canon S95 or similar. It has decent ability to go to high sensitivities (ISO) and maintain picture quality. In order to get the best shots though you will want to get as close as possible and stay zoomed out.
 
I disagree that a p&s can't get the shot. And some of the newer point and shoots have very good high ISO performance. However, a point and shoot usually won't get the shot on the general auto mode. You do need to understand some about photography to consistently get decent low light shots from a point and shoot.

A DSLR with a fast prime certainly does make the job easier though.

My daughter has an older Fuji S1000. I thnk the current camera in that line is the S2500. I've been able to get great lower light shots with it but I have to go all manual to get what I want.
 
Thanks for the replies. Is the sensor size the most important thing, or can a "superzoom" make a difference? I'm also interested in night time shots at Disneyland, and we're taking the Disney Cruise to Alaska--thought I might need a larger zoom for whales/seals.

I'm so confused. I have always tried to avoid becoming enamored of the kind of expensive camera with multi-lenses that require photo-smarts:sad2:.

I will continue to haunt the camera review sites...:surfweb:
 

I disagree that a p&s can't get the shot. And some of the newer point and shoots have very good high ISO performance. However, a point and shoot usually won't get the shot on the general auto mode. You do need to understand some about photography to consistently get decent low light shots from a point and shoot.

A DSLR with a fast prime certainly does make the job easier though.

My daughter has an older Fuji S1000. I thnk the current camera in that line is the S2500. I've been able to get great lower light shots with it but I have to go all manual to get what I want.

With all respect it depends entirely on the situation she is in. Some low light shots are possible, especially the wide angle side of things as the S1000 has a F2.0 lens on the wide angle side(this is the same reason I said she could use a S95).

However, my guess is that she probably can't get close enough on the wide angle end of things to get the picture she wants. Depending on how far away she was she might have to zoom in to the F5.0 point and this is where its going to become very hard. I also don't consider the S1000's ISO1600 performance that good which is what would probably be the minimum of what is necessary to stop action in a auditorium.

18230.jpg


The OP was complaining about the picture quality so in order to improve that she really needs a larger sensor or one of the newer backlit CCD/CMOS sensors.
 
Thanks for the replies. Is the sensor size the most important thing, or can a "superzoom" make a difference? I'm also interested in night time shots at Disneyland, and we're taking the Disney Cruise to Alaska--thought I might need a larger zoom for whales/seals.

I'm so confused. I have always tried to avoid becoming enamored of the kind of expensive camera with multi-lenses that require photo-smarts:sad2:.

I will continue to haunt the camera review sites...:surfweb:

A Superzoom as its name implies will allow you to bring the subject closer to you. But other than that it really is a P&S at heart but usually with decent manual controls.

Night shots are typically best with a tripod. Can you get away with handheld night shots? Yes, especially with Image stabilization and a static subject. If your subject is moving you either need a very nice camera+lens or a flash.
 
I claim that much of the success of getting low light action pictures out of a point-and-shoot depends on when you shoot as opposed to how you shoot. Like getting your shot when your subject is moving towards you or away from you as opposed to from side to side. Or at the top of a jump. This is further complicated by having more than one subject of interest and in motion.

It's a fast lens, not multiple lenses, that gets you a better low light action picture.

Digital camera hints: http://www.cockam.com/digicam.htm
 
Thanks for the replies. Is the sensor size the most important thing, or can a "superzoom" make a difference? I'm also interested in night time shots at Disneyland, and we're taking the Disney Cruise to Alaska--thought I might need a larger zoom for whales/seals.
I'm so confused. I have always tried to avoid becoming enamored of the kind of expensive camera with multi-lenses that require photo-smarts.

Sensor size is crucial - probably the most important factor to low light image quality - and yes, a superzoom can make a difference, but in a bad way. Superzoom cameras by necessity usually have the SMALLEST sensors of any digital camera. In order to pack an enormous focal range into such a small package, the sensor needs to be absolutely miniscule so that the lens can be physically smaller too. There are a rare few large-and-hefty superzooms with slightly larger sensors, but none come close to the bigger DSLR-type sensors. Ever notice how when people with DSLRs want to shoot at 500mm like a superzoom does, they need a lens so big it needs it's own zip-code? That's because of the sensor size - a big sensor needs a big optic to cast the light on the whole sensor, and that big optic at the sensor end must have even larger optics at the other end to provide that big telephoto range - so the lens ends up being a foot or two long with many glass elements inside.

For an understanding of the sensor sizes we're talking about, see this:

300px-SensorSizes.svg.png


See that little speck in the lower right (1/2.5)? That's a typical ultrazoom sensor. Also common in most P&S cameras today. That one over on the bottom left (1/1.7) - that's the larger and better sensor that can be found in the Panasonic LX5 or Canon S95. Move to the far right of the next column up, and you can see the micro 4:3 sensor from the Olympus and Panasonic mirrorless cameras - note how much bigger it is compared to the P&S sensors. Move up one more column and you can see the APS-C sensor size from the Sony NEX mirrorless cameras, as well as most entry-level and mid-level DSLRs - even a bit bigger than the M4:3 sensor.

It will give you some idea why image sensor size is very important for picking up and reading the light from a lens, and giving you an image - and why in low light the large-sensor cameras have an easier go of it compared to those little tiny lint-sized sensors from most P&S cameras. Of course, the lens also becomes a very big factor too - because a big sensor needs a lens with a big maximum aperture to let lots of light come through to that big sensor, in order to really get the most out of it.

So yes, you will do much better overall in low light with a large-sensor camera like the mirrorless cameras or a DSLR - but you have to accept the compromise of size and weight - the cameras are larger than most P&S cameras, and even in the case of the new tiny mirrorless cameras (NEX, Pen, etc) the camera has been made smaller, but if you want any kind of telephoto reach, the lens is going to be very big.

You just need to figure out where the best compromise is for you - smaller size, big lens focal range, portable? Travel zoom. Good low light performance - mirrorless APS-C, Micro 4:3, or DSLR. Some slightly larger sensor P&S cameras can be slightly better than the others - those with that larger 1/1.7" sensor like the Canon S95 or Panasonic LX5 will do better than other P&S cameras most of the time, but still won't come close to the big sensor guys.

Another consideration - what will you be photographing in low light? Indoor graduations and things in motion, where handheld low light photography is needed - P&S cameras simply can't come close to even the cheapest DSLR or mirrorless camera. Movement and low light just don't work when your sensor is smaller than a pea. However, if you mostly want to shoot more static or scenic scenes, a tripod will get you great results even with a P&S camera. And some P&S cameras have neat tricks like image stacking algorithms that can even allow handheld low light shots with excellent detail and low noise.

Hope that helps a bit.
 
Thanks for the replies. Is the sensor size the most important thing, or can a "superzoom" make a difference? I'm also interested in night time shots at Disneyland, and we're taking the Disney Cruise to Alaska--thought I might need a larger zoom for whales/seals.

I'm so confused. I have always tried to avoid becoming enamored of the kind of expensive camera with multi-lenses that require photo-smarts:sad2:.

I will continue to haunt the camera review sites...:surfweb:

Something that sounds promising for the step up p&S is the Kodak 990 MAX that is available April 9th, Especially the zoom. I had the Kodak Z812 and have amazing photo's. I tried to replace it with a Canon sx30 IS and the night, dim lite area photos are useless. Too much noise.

I was thinking of an SLR but I just want something with a viewfinder, zoom, great shots, and night shots. Should be simple.

I am using a small Sony Cyber shot 350 but I can not see anything on the lCD screen outside.

Go to the Kodak site and view the 990 MAX, and there is a youtube review of the CMOS sensor and other goodies.
:surfweb:
 
So much good information in your post. I don't think I want to get caught up in expensive lens-buying, and I need a camera that I don't mind carrying around with me all day at Dland/WDW, so I'm leaning away from a DSLR.

I'm interested in the Panasonic Fz35 or 40 or the Nikon Coolpix P100. The user reviews of the Fuji FinePix S200 sounded good, but I can't find it anywhere and I'm not sure if it has a successor...My cousin's got a Canon G10 he likes...
The more I read, the more confused I get!
 
In order to get the best shots though you will want to get as close as possible and stay zoomed out.
(copied from another post) All except the best lenses slow down when zoomed in. So you may need f/1.9, try to get away with f/2.8, and find out that the f/2.8 lens when zoomed in is giving you but f/4.0 or slower performance.
 
So much good information in your post. I don't think I want to get caught up in expensive lens-buying, and I need a camera that I don't mind carrying around with me all day at Dland/WDW, so I'm leaning away from a DSLR.

I'm interested in the Panasonic Fz35 or 40 or the Nikon Coolpix P100. The user reviews of the Fuji FinePix S200 sounded good, but I can't find it anywhere and I'm not sure if it has a successor...My cousin's got a Canon G10 he likes...
The more I read, the more confused I get!

I am still deciding and watching your thread. I had the Canon sx30 I took back it was useless in low light, U was leaning toward the Canon G12, but the lack of zoom and comments of the poor Lens viewfinder, along with some bulk made me second guess,.

I was strongly leaning toward the decision to go with a Nikon D3100 with two lenes, but went to HH Gregg and tried it out.
I absolutly will never be happy to use this as my go to camera, It was far to heavy to carry around, and the focus was limited zoom on the 18-55.

I did see something I was amazed at the Sony A 5, it did not have a viewfinder, but did have a tilt screen and available cover. BUT the action it related on the LCD was so true to the shot, brightness, not washed out, and the largest thing was size. It had to be 1/3 the size of a DSLR, but of course bigger then the Sony cyber shot 350 that is abouy the size of a slim wallet.
It was a great buy until I find my gem, but not a workhorse I need. Low light was great, it sent out the beam to adjust the auto settings, really fool proof for great family shots.

BUT I am strongly desiring the Sony models. The A-5, or the AS33 or AS55.
The onel thing I may do is buy a zoom lens for work. It does come in a set with a wide angle, but the weight, compact size and huge picture quality was a selling point.

It is smaller then the Conon, the Lumix, the Pentex ....I need to accept the loss of te view finder or accept the New Kodak Max with a maga zoom and great processor, but not even released yet to review.

The best thing I did was try some hands on fit, weight and gadget controls.
:surfweb:
 
I'm a little late to the party, but wanted to comment anyway. I agree with the posters who have said that to get the best indoor/night shots you need a DSLR. However, saying that, you can take good indoor/night pictures if you use your P&S properly.

These pictures were taken with our P&S:

IMG_0548.jpg


IMG_0652.jpg


IMG_1523.jpg


You also have to remember when taking night shots, the flash on the camera has a limited range, so turn it off. It really won't do any good if you are trying to take a picture of the castle from half way down Main Street. Night/inside pictures can be done with a P&S, however it does require some work. You need to set the ISO to it's lowest setting (so you don't get the noise) and brace the camera to ensure no movement as the picture is being taken. Any amount of movement will result in a blurry photo as the shutter needs to remain open longer. You can either place it on a flat surface (garbage can, etc), or secure it on a tripod (I have a Gorillapod that I use with our P&S - some people use a small beanbag). I also use the self timer option so that once the shutter is pressed and I remove my finger, there is no camera movement. It also depends on what type of indoor pictures you are trying to take. For something like your daughter's graduation, this technique won't work as she'll end up looking like a ghost in the photo below, so you really would need a DSLR.

IMG_1692.jpg


Bonny
 
The Fuji S200 sounded like it took great photos, but it is twice as heavy as the Panasonic, and I read in several reviews that it is more of an enthusiasts camera.

I really wanted the zoom for travel and 2 eventual outdoor graduations in a football stadium, so the G12 and the Olympus got knocked off my list.

Thank you everyone, for all of the good information:goodvibes. I'll experiment with low light shots :scared1: using your advice, and see what I get.

Laurie
 
Ordered a Panasonic FZ35

Thank you everyone, for all of the good information:goodvibes. I'll experiment with low light shots :scared1: using your advice, and see what I get.

Laurie

I took a quick peek at this camera and it seems to have a few of the same settings as a DSLR - Program AE, Aperture Priority AE, Shutter Priority AE,
Manual, Program Shift (Program AE mode) - you should have a lot of fun playing around with camera, but make sure to read your manual! :thumbsup2
 


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