Fireworks/night pics

[Humphrey53209]

My daughter just got a digital SLR camera. She has been using it a lot during the day, but has not taken a lot of photos at night. Does any have any advice for taking pictures of fireworks and shows at night?

Regards,
Humphrey53209

 

[Groucho]

I'm thinking that we need a sticky for this kind of thing. This is one of the most commonly-asked questions.

The most important thing is a tripod.

 

[Humphrey53209]

I'm thinking that we need a sticky for this kind of thing. This is one of the most commonly-asked questions.

The most important thing is a tripod.

I sorta figured that's a common question. I was having some troubles with the "search" function and needed a quick reply for this weekend. Thanks for your response. Sorry for the repeat Q.

Regards,
Humphrey53209

 

[Master Mason]

Humphry..

Have her try IS0 200 f/8 at least 1/4 exposure time.

Use a tripod and either a remote shutter release or the time delay release on the camera to avoid camera shake. Make adjustments from there.

 

[manning]

Take a look at this

http://www.nyip.com/tips/current/digfirewks.php

 

[Enforcer]

Thanks for that i found that very interesting.

 

[handicap18]

My recommendations:

For fireworks:
#1 Tripod. (this also works for any other subject where the shutter speed will be slower than 1/30th of sec)

#2 Manual.
A. Set ISO to 200 (or 100 if the camera goes that low).
B. Shutter speed will be anywhere from 2 seconds to 7 seconds (thus the need for the tripod). You can set the seconds yourself and use a remote shutter release (highly recommended) or you can use BULB. Again relseasing the shutter with a remote release and count out the seconds yourself and then use the remote shutter release to close the shutter.
C. Aperture (f/stops): generally around f/8. I've used f/10 and gotten some excellent results. You can also try smaller stops (bigger numbers) to get a slightly different effect with thinner streaks. The bigger numbers might also be a good idea as you get towards the Finale. Try switching to f/22. There is a lot of light from the bursts and the smaller opening might help out with seperating the streaks better (I've seen pictures using f/22 of what looks like, still waiting for confirmation for the photographer on it though, part of a Finale and the picture came out very good even with all that light on a 5 second exposure).

As for other Night photography such as the shows. Best bet is to use the highest ISO available, ie: 1600 (some camera's as high as 3200). I'd use aperture priority (Av or A depending on the camera) and set the lens to the widest (smallest number) and then let the camera choose the shutter speed. A highly recommended lens is a 50mm f/1.8. Canon's version goes for about $80 and Nikon's version goes for about $110 (both depending on where you shop). It is a very sharp lens and excellent for low light photography as the f/1.8 is VERY wide.

Hope the info helps.

Enjoy!

 

[Michele]

I'm just curious why ISO 1600 is recommended for night shooting, but for fireworks 100 or 200 is recommended. Is it just because of the light from the fireworks?

 

[barrie]

Here's a link to How to Photograph Fireworks from the Digital Photography School blog.

I love this blog but it is hard to find a particular article that you may be looking for. They don't have a search or an index yet - so I am going to make a link list to all the articles and post it on Great Disney World Photos for anyone that interested. Barrie

 

[handicap18]

I'm just curious why ISO 1600 is recommended for night shooting, but for fireworks 100 or 200 is recommended. Is it just because of the light from the fireworks?

With fireworks if you are using a tripod you don't have to worry about needing the higher ISO to get a faster shutter (you'll be using very slow shutter speeds). Lower ISO's have much lower noise, especially with the dark sky as the background.

With the shows, you most likely wont be using the tripod. If you want a picture of Mickey during Fantasmic for example, he is going to be moving, the setting is going to be dark. A low ISO will not allow enough light to get a fast enough shutter speed to get a clear picture. At ISO 1600 in that situation you have a much greater chance of getting a good shutter speed to allow that "action" to be stopped.

The difference is 4 stops. IE: if at ISO 200 you get a 1/20th shutter (you'll get blur from camera shake and the character moving), then at ISO 1600 and the same f/stop you'll get 1/80th (no camera shake blur and you'll only get a tiny bit of movement blur in the characters hands and feet).

 

[Anewman]

I'm just curious why ISO 1600 is recommended for night shooting, but for fireworks 100 or 200 is recommended. Is it just because of the light from the fireworks?

In addition to what Kyle mentioned, longer exposures give you nice long TRAILS. Raising the ISO would give you faster shutter speeds and shorter light trails.

Also the longer exposure will help capturing multiple burts, while a faster shutter speed would need to be timed perfectly just to capture a single burst.

 

[wdw_adict]

I took a lot of fireworks photos on our last trip. I tend to go for a higher ISO setting, say 800, as I didn't take a tripod with me.

If you want to take a look at some examples.

Most of these were taken at 800 or 1600 ISO with a 1/25th second shutter speed, 18mm Focal Length and Apperture F/4.5

 

[Decfish]

That was may concern in reading the post, long exposure times without using a tripod. I just purchased a Nikon D70s and one of my goals for our upcoming trip is to get some firework shots at MK like the great ones I have seen here. Using a tripod in the MK isn’t feasible and finding a stable spot to shot from with a good vantage point will be difficult with the crowds.

What shutter speed is reasonable to achieve good firework shots and still attempt to hand hold? Any other recommendations?

 

[Master Mason]

That was may concern in reading the post, long exposure times without using a tripod. I just purchased a Nikon D70s and one of my goals for our upcoming trip is to get some firework shots at MK like the great ones I have seen here. Using a tripod in the MK isn’t feasible and finding a stable spot to shot from with a good vantage point will be difficult with the crowds.

What shutter speed is reasonable to achieve good firework shots and still attempt to hand hold? Any other recommendations?

get a mini tripod and stake out a garbage can in a good spot to sit it on.... Otherwise... find something that you can lean against that will hold your body and arms steady.... I have seen some picks that are as low as 1/10th of sec that were pretty steady handheld, but that depends on the person.

 

[Decfish]

Thanks for the advise. I think I'll try the mini tripod. Now it's just a matter of staking out a good spot early.

 

[Groucho]

A monopod is an option, too. That's what I'm bringing - I'm also going to use it on New Year's Eve to videotape the MGM fireworks.

It's not as stable as a tripod but much better than hand-held, and apparently with some practice can be very effective.

 

[handicap18]

That was may concern in reading the post, long exposure times without using a tripod. I just purchased a Nikon D70s and one of my goals for our upcoming trip is to get some firework shots at MK like the great ones I have seen here. Using a tripod in the MK isn’t feasible and finding a stable spot to shot from with a good vantage point will be difficult with the crowds.

What shutter speed is reasonable to achieve good firework shots and still attempt to hand hold? Any other recommendations?

This is where taking fireworks shots gets on the gray side of the scale. I'm guessing that the majority of the people are in this same boat with you whether they use a dSLR like yourself or a P&S.

You can get good fireworks shots without using a tripod, however they will have a different look. Doen't mean it is bad. With the long shutter speeds the sensor captures the long trail of light before and as it becomes the big huge bursts. With short shutter speeds I would concentrate on just the bursts. Listen for the launch (the loud puff). If you can release the shutter as the burst begins you should be able to capture some good color and a good size burst. Shutter speeds lower than 1/30th of a second are usually when people have the camera shake from hand holding. Many P&S cameras now have IS which will allow up to 4 stops slower, 1/10th of a second, while hand holding. There are also lenses for dSLR's with IS/VR available in the 28-105mm range, but are expensive.

I haven't experienced with fireworks and handholding (though I think I will try and do it on the next trip to have some comparison shots) so I'm really just speculating based on other people experiences and results.

In maual mode I would probably start at 1/20th and f/5.6 or 4.5 or so. Then play with the ISO a bit, try 1600 or 800. Take a few shots, then change the settings. Go down to 1/15th and lower depending on how comfortable with the shots you've taken and where you are taking the pics (tree-pod, fence-pod, sitting on the ground and bracing the camera against your chest or knees, etc...). Because of the extra available light, I would think that the Finale would give some better pictures in this situation. There are more bursts going on and more light.

The biggest thing no matter if you are using a tripod or not is take a lot of pictures. Don't wait for the perfect shot, if you do it wont come. One show I took 45 pictures and good 5 or 6 that I was really happy with. That is pretty normal.

 

[Decfish]

Thanks for all of the great advise. I thought of trying a monopod but didn’t know if it would be an issue bringing it into the parks.

Also, Kyle, I have read that using high ISO, 800-1600, will produce a lot of noise. Have you seen this to be the case? Or, because of the dramatic contrast between the dark sky and the firework burst it’s not as noticeable?
Thanks, Donald.

 

[wdw_adict]

You will get noise on a 1600 ISO exposure less on an 800 but it all depends on what you intend to do with the shots. If you are only going to be viewing them in a computer then the noise is more noticable. If, however, you are going to have the photos printed then the noise is virtually invisible. In fact noise or 'film grain' can add something to the shots.

 

[landmark]

While waiting for our table at the crystal palace i took this cool picture of the castle with heat lightning in the background.