The dropped ceilings are good because then you can always access what is behind it. We've had to do that a few times. Ours is just 8" or so lower where the pipes are, so it is two different levels in some places, but it looks fine as it is around the perimeter, and is just a soffit. It depends how high your ceilings are to begin with. Fortunately for us the person that built the house did it with finishing it in mind so the ceilings are very high. We also put in a bathroom which is wonderful. When kids (teenagers) have friends over they are not all over the house. I think it was about another 5k, but well worth it if it's possible. We got tile for $1 each on closeout and a vanity on clearance too, since it didn't need to match anything.
I'm getting a bit of early anxiety about doing the epoxy floor!
Are you talking about epoxy or acid stain? I love the acid stain look. I probably would not choose to do the epoxy stuff in living areas. It just doesn't look as nice.
In most areas, ground temperature is lower than room temperature. So the basement rooms will feel cold unless you proactively insulate your basement flooring. If you are mathematically inclined and choose the right materials for ceiling and floor you can save by having less waste material. You would custom stagger the rows rather than go by whole tiles or half tiles that the instructions suggest. This is usually easier if the material comes in "boards" as opposed to in rectangular or square "tiles." On one flooring project I had about 3% waste as opposed to the average 8% to 10% waste that the instructions say to plan for. Find out whether your foundation walls were precoated with waterproofing on the outside. If so then you do not want a "vapor barrier" on the inside just behind the drywall. Leave an inch of an air gap between the stud wall and the foundation wall if you use batt insulation. (I didn't, not sure how bad that will be.) If pipes are enclosed in an exterior wall (except below frost line) then there should be no insulation between the pipe and the inside wall surface. If the basement will be loud (home theater, etc.) you may want extra insulation in the basement ceiling. You will save much in terms of costs if you don't have to relocate pipes, ducts, etc. to get more headroom. Other hints: http://www.cockam.com/theater.htm
1. Check codes. They had changed since our house was built and we needed an egress window put in. Budget buster! However, it does let in tons of light which i do like a lot.
this is all super helpful, since I'm going to start my basement soon.
Does anyone mind giving even an approximate dollar amount of what it cost to re-do their basement?
We were set on acid staining first, and then while we were looking at videos and products and pictures we came across a video for the epoxy. The epoxy seems to be really durable and the ones we've looked at are kind of marble looking and shiny which DH really likes.
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This would be my concern as well. If it's cold on your feet and doesn't feel warm and inviting you won't want to go down there often.
Also pay attention to lighting and make sure it feels bright and open. The best budget tip to me would be to not cut corners on those two things or you'll have a brand new space that you won't want to use.
We were set on acid staining first, and then while we were looking at videos and products and pictures we came across a video for the epoxy. The epoxy seems to be really durable and the ones we've looked at are kind of marble looking and shiny which DH really likes.
Something like this, but in a different color
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My girlfriend here just acid stained her basement so I think I'll look at hers again before truly deciding.