Fast lens for dark rides

[bball15fan]

I have a Sony full frame and looking to get a 1.4, however not sure what focal length I should get. I usually stay away from prime lenses but in this case it is my only choice. Any suggestions on 50, 35 or 24?

Thank you in advance!

 

[OKW Lover]

On most dark rides you will be fairly close to the subject. I'd go with the 35 or 24.

 

[KVH]

Considering the distances involved, I would say the 24 AT MOST. Even then I think your FOV is gonna be kinda tight for several rides if you really want context in the shot (as opposed to just catching a head or upper torso only and nothing else in the pic). For example, in Pirates, 24 would be about right (maybe even the 35 in some spots). But in places like Pooh, or PPF, Alice, or even JII, many time you're REALLY up close to the subjects.

BTW, Sigma makes a 20/1.4. Just sayin' . . .

 

[bball15fan]

Thank you! I ended up getting a 24 1.4.

 

[jec6613]

Thank you! I ended up getting a 24 1.4.

24 is about as wide as one can reasonably go without having to worry about weird perspective compression artifacts, I like the idea of using a 24 (or 16 on an APS sized sensor) for dark rides where you're being moved about.

I'd suggest actually shooting it at f/2 or so BTW, most of the non-stupidly expensive* f/1.4 glass gets brighter in the center but has more vignetting after you move past about f/2 or so, so overall you capture the same amount of light but loose sharpness and loose your corners almost entirely. Also, I used to underexpose by 2-ish stops on the ISO: easy to fix in post-processing, but you can't fix the blown highlights (now I just use highlight-weighted metering). The last few generations of sensors are really good at making up for underexposure and slower lenses.

*By stupidly expensive, think $1,000+: the Sony 24mm f/1.4 GM, Nikon AF-S NIKKOR 24mm f/1.4G ED, and similar.

 

[bball15fan]

24 is about as wide as one can reasonably go without having to worry about weird perspective compression artifacts, I like the idea of using a 24 (or 16 on an APS sized sensor) for dark rides where you're being moved about.

I'd suggest actually shooting it at f/2 or so BTW, most of the non-stupidly expensive* f/1.4 glass gets brighter in the center but has more vignetting after you move past about f/2 or so, so overall you capture the same amount of light but loose sharpness and loose your corners almost entirely. Also, I used to underexpose by 2-ish stops on the ISO: easy to fix in post-processing, but you can't fix the blown highlights (now I just use highlight-weighted metering). The last few generations of sensors are really good at making up for underexposure and slower lenses.

*By stupidly expensive, think $1,000+: the Sony 24mm f/1.4 GM, Nikon AF-S NIKKOR 24mm f/1.4G ED, and similar.

Appreciate the help!

 

[boBQuincy]

Btw, the character faces on "Frozen" are videos and shutter speeds faster than 1/60 may not capture the entire face due to the scanning speed. Buzz Lightyear at MK may be the same.

 

[fractal]

Btw, the character faces on "Frozen" are videos and shutter speeds faster than 1/60 may not capture the entire face due to the scanning speed. Buzz Lightyear at MK may be the same.

@bball15fan
Also want to make sure you are in mechanical vs. electronic shutter (unless you are shooting with a Sony A1) for projected faces. The Sony 24mm 1.4 is a great lens btw! Have fun with it!

 

[bball15fan]

@bball15fan
Also want to make sure you are in mechanical vs. electronic shutter (unless you are shooting with a Sony A1) for projected faces. The Sony 24mm 1.4 is a great lens btw! Have fun with it!

Great shot and thanks for the advice! I just purchased the Sony a7iv. I also have a sony A7sII

 

[bob100]

I'm still using my old 20mm 2.8 and sometimes a cheap yongnuo 35 f/2 - and occasionally the 22/2
www.flickr.com/photos/mmirrorless

 

[bball15fan]

I'm still using my old 20mm 2.8 and sometimes a cheap yongnuo 35 f/2 - and occasionally the 22/2
www.flickr.com/photos/mmirrorless

Great birding pictures!