External flashes

[omghidanielle]

I have not yet been disappointed by the SB-400, but then again, I haven't tried the SB-600. It wouldn't surprise me if I were disappointed once I gave that a try.

Anyway, what I like about the SB-400 is its size. I can leave it on the camera most of the day without issue. I am concerned that the SB-600 would be more of a hassle to carry mounted all day. Plus, from a WDW standpoint, I'm not sure what it would offer that the SB-400 can't do. I can't imagine bouncing at different angles there. But then again, I haven't tried it.

It's nice having the SB400 for lighter stuff but yeah, the SB600 has it beat by a mile. If you do a lot of zooming the SB600 would be a better fit, the SB400 just doesn't have much reach. WDWFigmant is right about the SB600 adding weight and I sure as heck wouldn't drag it around parks all day but for everyday use you get used to it.

The weight of the flash is also a big factor that I hadn't even realized or thought about until it was mentioned here. I don't zoom much, so that's not a huge concern of mine right now.

I wound up buying the 400. I'm still pretty new at all of this, so I figure once I get more familiar with everything, I can upgrade. For the most part, I don't want the camera to weigh more than me while walking around WDW!

Thank you everyone!

 

[VVFF]

I have the SB600 for my D60... I love it! It has come in so handy and is a very nice flash overall... I am really going to enjoy having it this year for WDW for pictures while we are dining... The characters pose with the kids, and I am going to shoot the flash straight up or if I am near a wall, I might bounce it off, so it won't be such a direct light...

Also, that flash works great when you are riding dark rides like POTC or HM... Really lights up the target of your photo... Just Kidding of course...

I've found that using the Speedlite 580ex allows me to get shots that aren't blurry in Haunted Mansion. Did you know that the Madam Leota ball is just suspended by a string and the ghosts aren't actually in the ballroom?

 

[oregondaddyof2]

I've found that using the Speedlite 580ex allows me to get shots that aren't blurry in Haunted Mansion. Did you know that the Madam Leota ball is just suspended by a string and the ghosts aren't actually in the ballroom?

 

[YesDear]

I've found that using the Speedlite 580ex allows me to get shots that aren't blurry in Haunted Mansion. Did you know that the Madam Leota ball is just suspended by a string and the ghosts aren't actually in the ballroom?

So you are that person!!!!!!!!!! SHAME ON YOU!!!!

 

[YesDear]

For what it is worth here is a great comparison chart of the Nikon Flashes by Tom Hogan. If the SB400 is only about 4oz lighter than the SB600 are you even going to feel it?

Chart

 

[wenrob]

For what it is worth here is a great comparison chart of the Nikon Flashes by Tom Hogan. If the SB400 is only about 4oz lighter than the SB600 are you even going to feel it?

Chart

Really? The SB600 seems way heavier then the SB400. Maybe it's the way the weight is distributed? Hmmn...

 

[Hoan & Poopie]

I was wondering if anyone has been successful getting good color via either Auto WB or getting a preset reading during dark rides.

First off I normally do NOT fiddle around with RAW, my personal choice is to get things as good as I can in JPG when taking the picture. POTC in particular seems quite a challenge in getting correct color. During our last two trips earlier this year I used our D300 + Sigma 30 1.4 but left WB to auto and was not pleased with the results.

We go again in a couple weeks and I plan to maybe try and get a WB reading at the start of the attractions and see how it goes.

Anyone on here gotten good jpg results and with what WB technique?

 

[GoofyontheHiSeas]

Unfortunately WB is not uniform throughout the ride. I only shoot in RAW and tweak in LR later. The one thing that really helps is to decrease your saturation by -20-30.

Temp 4100 Tint -12 Saturation 0

Temp 2000 Tint +2 Saturation -24

Temp 2000 Tint -60 Saturation -21

This one is from DL, since I was on the wrong side of the boat at WDW.

Temp 2100 Tint +4 Saturation -29

You have the right equipment but I don't think your going to be able to get the results you are looking for in JPG.

 

[Code]

You have the right equipment but I don't think your going to be able to get the results you are looking for in JPG.

I agree with this.. much of the ride is far too warm for auto WB to stand any chance, much warmer than tungsten even. You can set a manual WB around 2200-2400K and get decent results on much of the ride, but some places will give very blue pictures this way.

I recommend making an exception to your no-RAW rule just for this ride.

 

[WDWFigment]

I can assume the only reason you don't like RAW is because of processing time? If you shoot these in RAW and process them as a batch, it should take about 5 minutes (one WB for the red scenes, one for the normal scenes).

You won't have any luck unless you change the WB for each section of the ride, or shoot RAW.

 

[ssanders79]

Like others have mentioned just switch to RAW at least for POTC. you can also shoot RAW+jpeg.

 

[Chikabowa]

I have good luck with Auto WB on POTC and I'm shooting w/a D3. I find that Auto WB on that thing is just about dead on a good majority of the time.

But yeah, in places it is MUCH too warm to get a good reading and some places way too cool as well. I think your best bet would be, as a previous poster suggested, find a reading in Kelvin that really matches what you are trying to accomplish.

 

[Hoan & Poopie]

Well maybe I will have to consider changing my ways in certain circumstances.

Thanks everyone for your suggestions!

 

[JoeDif]

A question for all the Nikon shooters on here. I may be inheriting a Nikon SB 24 flash (yeah I know it's an old flash but hey it's free). Since I'm an Oly user, is the SB 24 capable of off camera slave use? I assume it could be controlled by a flash trigger.

Thanks

 

[annnewjerz]

I'm no expert---but I did a little poking around online and it looks like the SB-24 lacks the ability to act as a cordless slave flash.

But the SB-24 does not support other popular features found in other later Nikon bodies introduced after F90(x), such as red eye reduction, FP high speed flash sync, 3D Matrix Multi-Sensor Balance-Fill flash, cordless slave remote function etc.

If you go to this link, it says it in there a couple paragraphs down the page.

http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/nikonf4/flash/SB24/index.htm

HTH!
Ann

 

[JoeDif]

Thanks Ann

I'll need to look into seeing if I can do something with a pc cord connection

 

[My2Girls66]

I have an SB24 and as I look at it, it looks like you can plug a cord into it. There are 2 different connections on the side. I don't have my manual handy so I'm not sure what they are for. I've only used it on a camera so I'm not sure of its other capabilities.

 

[Code]

You can get an optical slave to fire it with your on-camera flash (peanut slave that plugs into the PC sync port, or a hotshoe slave), or get radio triggers. I use cheap radio triggers on Vivitar flashes from the 70s.. the ones I have are PT-04 IS and were less than $50 for a transmitter and 3 recievers from ebay. They certainly aren't Pocket Wizards (the gold standard in radio triggers) but they have worked well for me.

 

[Icemann]

Sell the Oly and buy a Nikon










Just Kidding

 

[JoeDif]

Sell the Oly and buy a Nikon










Just Kidding

Too funny!!!

Did you get your D3000 yet?