(Continued from Previous Post)
Chinatown morning
If you look up the San Francisco Chinatown, all directions lead to Grant Avenue. It is written up as the largest Chinatown outside of Asia and the oldest one in North America. Grant Avenue is where most of the tourists go to see Chinatown.
If you get on a Chinatown bus, these buses go down Stockton Street. Stockton Street is the other major street for Chinatown. It is where the Chinese community goes to shop and buy their Chinese groceries. Once you head under the Stockton tunnel at Union Square, you’re in a different world.
Chinatown buses are ALWAYS packed at any time of the morning. So, getting off the bus is a tricky business. I waited for the majority of the crowd to jump off at Clay and we got off at Jackson/Pacific.
Every time I go down Stockton, it is no different. There are seemingly boxes and boxes of produce that are stacked on the sidewalk, taking up precious walking real estate, and making it seem like a maze to walk through. Add a couple of hundred thousand people to the mix; and it becomes a recipe for hanging on to your bags and children!
Today ….well….today just seemed like there was an absolute sea of people. They, and the boxes, were just everywhere! I grabbed hold of DS and my camera bag for dear life.
We tried to walk forwards and it was like trying to walk against the tide.
We tried to walk backwards and it was like trying to walk against the tide.
I hated to think what it was like towards Clay Street!
The reason for the extra activity was simple. We were in Chinatown in the lead-up to Chinese New Year. Everyone was frantic to stock up and to make sure that they had appropriate items to give as gifts. Either that or Thursday was the day that social security payments were made, like it is in Oz.
With all the bustle and activity, I didn’t get any pictures of Stockton. I was too scared that if I let go of DS, we would not be able to find each other again. It’s a pity – it would have made for a great streetscape picture.
Out of desperation, I headed out into the street and we managed to make some progress. It seemed a lot easier to dodge the cars and buses; than people and boxes. And we took the only option available to us – head down a cross street towards Grant.
For me, Grant is for tourist shopping and Stockton is for local shopping. I always like to experience the real Chinatown, which in my opinion, lies between Grant Avenue and Stockton Street.
We saw shops with red firecrackers hanging in preparation for Chinese New Year.
I ducked in one of these shops to get some red packets, or ang pows, for my own Chinese New Year celebrations in Melbourne. The cost of the red packets was on par with what we pay in Melbourne; but the variety was so much better.
I also managed to get a couple of shots of the fruit on sale down on the cross street.
And nobody ask me for a translation....it all seems like Greek to me!
DS was fascinated by this shop….I had to explain the concept of Alternative Medicine to him.
And the thought of eating or swallowing Traditional Chinese medicine brought on some rumblings…..
Cheap Eats #1
One of the things that tourists like to experience in any Chinatown is to go eat Dim Sum or Yum Cha. Chinatown San Francisco is no different….and particularly around Grant Avenue, there are a very few Dim Sum restaurants that cater to the tourist and come with a seemingly moderate to high bill. Most tourists would be happy to pay about $10 - $15 per head (or more) for Dim Sum.
Many years ago (before DS was born and on another one of those trips with DH), I had gotten myself lost in the Chinatown between Grant and Stockton. I was walking from Union Square to Columbus; so as long as I headed in that direction, it didn’t matter where I was. I never really figured out where I had gotten to, as I knew that if I took a left or a right that I would hit either of the two landmark streets. But I remembered that I stopped somewhere to get some very tasty and cheap Dim Sum. And on subsequent trips back, I never quite found the street again.
Well….I worked it out today. It was Pacific Street. As you are heading from Stockton towards Grant, there is a little hole in the wall on the left hand side. If you are ever there, go here. This was the place that I found all those years ago.
This time, I decided to try a larger hole in the wall, on the right side.
We ordered 2 Custard buns…
…one of the Shrimp Rice Noodles (Har Fun), 2 shrimp dumplings (Har Gows)….
[Note – the Prawn Rice Noodles serving was more than that shown on this plate. DS and I both hoed into it a little before I remembered to pull the camera out.]
…and bought a bottle of water. I also got some Chinese tea.
I would have bought some Pork dumplings (Shui Mai) as well; but they weren’t ready.
The bill? It came to a little over $6. Yes….$6 for the two of us! It was cheaper than a Golden Arches Meal Deal!!
The Custard buns were adequate; but the ones we had the other night were far superior. But the Har Fun and the Har Gows were wonderful. The shrimp in both were lovely and fresh….and they were perfectly cooked to that crystal crunch consistency. Delicious!
I remember that the first hole in the wall had better custard buns, hence the recommendation.
And for anyone who prefers something a little bit more up market than a hole in the wall, take a look at the All You Can Eat across the street.
I haven’t eaten here; so I cannot vouch for the food. Somewhere else to try…next time.
Chinatown Alley
After we had stretched our bellies, I decided it was time to show what I consider to be the real Chinatown to my DS.
I took him down a couple of alleyways.
In the (g)olden days, the Chinatown alleys were known for gambling and brothel houses. Today, they offered a fascinating insight for my DS.
We were heading for a particular place I had in mind….
Yes, well spotted!
The Fortune Cookie Factory is located in Ross Alley, the oldest of all San Francisco alleys. Have a look at the handwritten sign…
I don’t know if I was supposed to pay 50 cents per picture! But after I paid up, I took one and a few.
There were 3 machines and 3 ladies working when we visited.
The lady in the front sure moved a LOT quicker than the others at the back. I did get a chance to speak to her….turns out she was filling in for the day. The regular worker was off sick and I think she is an auntie of the owner.
The batter is dropped into each of those round moulds and the whole thing moves around. The moulds eventually hit some blue gas flames and get cooked. They keep going round and the workers pull the cooked fortune cookie off the moulds…
They then either put a fortune inside each cookie, and fold it over with the help of the metal prong here to make a fortune cookie, or; they keep the cookie as is and place it in the container.
The round flat cookies are bagged up and sold to the school children that visit here on their excursions. Apparently it is much easier to eat and the school kids don’t care much for the pieces of fortune paper inside.
DS was completely taken with the Fortune Cooking
manufacturing process.
See the guy on the left of and behindDS? Well, he was the manager for the day.
He was completely taken with DS…
DS got to try pulling the cookies off the moulds. It sure isn’t as easy as the workers make it out to be!
We left with a couple of free samples; not just of the round cookies but also with fortune cookies.
There was a not so fascinating thread on the Dis Community Board not so long ago about how much you thought a writer of Fortune Cookies should earn. Yes, like 85% of the threads on the CB, you know it is a mistake to open the thread to read but you can't help yourself; and I did have this post in mind. There was a not so great debate about how the fortunes are all c%$p and that the writers probably don’t earn so much money.
Have a look at MY fortune….
Seems like the writer of my fortune should be paid his or her weight in round cookies. Sure looks like they got it right to me!
Up Next – Chinatown afternoon!

