Couldn't wait for the 7 so I got the 5n

HPS3

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I just couldn't be without a camera anymore so I broke down and cancelled my Nex7 and ordered a 5n and OLED viewfinder. I just got the chance to take it out today and get the feel for it. It's definitely a learning curve coming from my D5100. I'm still used to looking through an OVF. I'm not sure if I really like the EVF yet or not. I'm not used to seeing the gain(noise) in my VF or screen when shooting in low light. As far as photos go, it's on par with the D5100 which is great. I do find it challenging sometimes to hit focus when using Peaking with my Nikon lenses(f1.8-2.8). Overall, I love it. I love that it can be transformed into a DSLR like camera via the LA-EA2 or use just the 16mm and throw it in your pocket. Now I just need to practice and practice and practice.....

Sigma 10-20 Nikon mount:

Mommy and Carly at the Parade by Harry Shields, on Flickr

Nikon 135/2.8 Series E:

Old Nikon Test by Harry Shields, on Flickr

Sigma 10-20:

Heyyyyyy! by Harry Shields, on Flickr

Tamron 60/2 Macro:

TV Head by Harry Shields, on Flickr
 
How exciting, I just ordered mine a couple days ago. I ordered the SEL16F28 as well and hope to get some practice before I take my trip. I have experience with the A55 because I was a Sony rep when they came out. I'm glad you got one, I work for Best Buy and these things were backordered for awhile. Any suggestions for a good yet inexpensive f1.4 lens and a telephoto lens? Great first pics btw!
 
Thanks Markie Mouse. If you wouldn't mind a f1.8 instead of a f1.4 you can find a great deal of glass on ebay for cheap. I hear that some of the 50/1.8'sare sharper than the 1.4's. I would look into the Super Takumar, Minolta, Canon, Nikon, etc. I think you should be able to find a good 50 for $20-75. I just bought the Nikon 135/2.8 Series E lens for $100 but the fringing is terrible at 2.8. I here really good things about the Pentacon 135 with 15 aperture blades (Bokeh Monster). Another great lens I hear about is the Nikkor 105/f2.5. I'm still on the fence about keeping the EVF or returning it for the La-ea2 and Sal35f18.

Here's another one with the 135:
s
Carwash by Harry Shields, on Flickr
 
Congrats on getting the 5N! If you're not planning on doing much or any sort of action shots then you probably would get by fine without the EVF. But I will say that you probably will get used to the EVF pretty quickly. After using one for a month or two it became more strange and almost a little frustrating for me when I used a camera that didn't have it! :rotfl:
 

Thanks Markie Mouse. If you wouldn't mind a f1.8 instead of a f1.4 you can find a great deal of glass on ebay for cheap. I hear that some of the 50/1.8'sare sharper than the 1.4's. I would look into the Super Takumar, Minolta, Canon, Nikon, etc. I think you should be able to find a good 50 for $20-75. I just bought the Nikon 135/2.8 Series E lens for $100 but the fringing is terrible at 2.8. I here really good things about the Pentacon 135 with 15 aperture blades (Bokeh Monster). Another great lens I hear about is the Nikkor 105/f2.5. I'm still on the fence about keeping the EVF or returning it for the La-ea2 and Sal35f18.

Thanks for the tips, maybe I'll save for the SEL-50F18. I bought it as a gift for my wife but I will end up using it more than her, so I think a EVF is unnecessary for us right now, but I'm sure in real sunny situations it can come in handy. That Pentacon looks like a good deal though especially because I want the Bokeh effect. I'll be at DLR Feb. 27th- Mar. 3rd and will have a lot of pics with my Nex 5n, feel free to stop by and critique my amateur pics.
 
I wish I would have bought the Pentacon myself. If you want a good 50, I would probably go for the SAL50F18 because you get autofocus plus Stabilization. I think the price is $299. I look forward to seeing your pics. I'll be testing it out in WDW for spring break.
 
Congrats on the new camera. I agree with your sentiments on it - it's a fun camera and just as capable IQ-wise as a DSLR, but in a smaller, lighter package. It can't do everything a DSLR can, but not everyone shoots everything, so for many it can do anything they'll need it to!

On the EVF, I'd agree with Kat that it might not be as flat-out necessary if you're not doing a ton of long lens work or action. I personally bought the EVF to use with the 55-210mm lens, as well as my 135mm F2.8 and 200mm F3.5 primes, as the longer focal lengths are just easier and more stable for me when having a viewfinder. I too am used to an OVF, and it's a little funky at first getting used to an electronic view, but it's still better for me especially when shooting in bright daylight where the LCD isn't quite as clear, and when using long lenses when I need the stability and better stance. I'll likely have occasions with the kit lens or wider primes where I'll take it off and go more for portability, especially indoors where the LCD will work fine.

BTW - there is a setting in the menu for the EVF that turns exposure simulation on or off - you may want to try it - I believe this can allow you to not have that artificial gain-up in low light situations, though of course it also means it will get quite dim and difficult to see for focus needs. I have tended to keep simulation on, as it does help especially with manual lenses in seeing the scene better for focus, even if I can't visually judge the actual exposure from what I see on screen. Also, I turned off the automatic switching of EVF and LCD, and prefer to keep it manual - I hit the button on the viewfinder to switch when I want to switch - I like this as it allows the LCD to stay dark when I'm shooting off the viewfinder, which can be more stealthy especially indoors in dark environments.
 
Hey Justin, I was wondering when I would hear from you. I like the viewfinder when manual focusing. Today I just ordered the LA-EA2 and the SAL35F18. I think this will be better for me to chase my 5 and 1 year olds around with. I also saw how much faster video focus is with the LA-EA2. I just need to sell some of these Nikon lenses. I think the Sigma 17-50 f2.8 with OS is on my list. I don't mind having a large lens on the Nex and being able to switch. It's like a Transformer. Something I couldn't do with the DSLR.
 
Quite true - the modularity of the NEX system is something that those who don't use one may miss - you often hear people say that using a big lens on the NEX, or adding on the EVF, defeats the purpose of getting a compact camera...but the fact that I can have the NEX be nearly as big as a DSLR by adding on the phase-detect module, and EVF unit plus a bigger lens doesn't mean it's going to stay that way...you can strip off the LA-EA2 module and go with a lighter, smaller Emount lens and the EVF, or you can pop off the EVF and use the LCD, or you can stick a very small lens like the 16mm on it and no EVF and even squeeze it into a pocket. It can vary from compact camera size to DSLR size, as needed. Add, or take away, whichever bits and pieces you do or do not need at any given time. It's precisely why I got into the NEX as a second body - I can go light and small as a second carry-along body with the DSLR, or I can bulk it up a bit and have it take the place of the DSLR...or I can strip it down to bare essentials and have it take the place of a P&S.
 
Justin, one question I want to ask you about the flash. When I have an E mount lens on I can control the flash compensation via soft key(bottom). When I switch to my Nikon lenses that button automatically switches to focus assist. I can't seem to find any menu settings for flash comp. except when you assign it to a soft key. Do you know if you can control the HVL-F20S any differently?
 
No - unfortunately I never tried that flash unit. At least with my NEX, I'm not a big flash user - the tiny basic one that comes with it is all I really need. For the types of shooting I do that involves heavy flash use, I will stick to my DSLR as I have a bigger flash unit to do the trick. Can you not just assign flash compensation control to another soft key - like the right arrow, or one of the 5 functions on soft key B?
 
Thanks Justin! Just did it. I moved my ISO to C key and moved flash comp to right key. Works like a charm.
 
That's pretty much how I did it - the B soft key isn't as useful since it becomes other functions often - in manual lens mode, it becomes the focus magnification, and in flex spot focus mode, it becomes the flex position key. So I put DRO/HDR on that soft key, since it's something convenient to access, but I can miss it. Since I don't use flash often, I use the right key for AEL toggle, and have ISO first on soft key C.
 
I just got the camera today and so far it good but it is a bit confusing. How do you put it into 1080 60p or 24p for video, why, when in manual, cannot I not change the ISO, and navigating the menus is not the easiest thing.
 
markie - I can't help on the video question, as I never use video.

However, in Manual shooting mode, you should be able to change the ISO anywhere from 100 to 12800. The only thing you can't do in Manual mode is leave ISO in Auto...in Manual mode, the ISO is strictly manual as well.

I agree that navigating the menus takes a big learning curve...that's why I'd recommend the very first thing you learn to do in the menu is to scroll to 'set up', then find the 'custom button' setup area. Enter this, and program your 3 custom buttons with the functions you use the most, which will save you having to go into the menus for almost anything else. Soft button B is the bottom of the two buttons right next to the LCD - do note when choosing something for this button that this button is sometimes defaulted to other functions in certain modes - for example, if you choose 'flexible spot focus' mode, it becomes the flex point move button. If you use manual focus, it becomes the manual focus assist button. So don't put anything too important on B. the Right arrow key is good for something you'll use frequently, like ISO, or AE lock. And then Soft key C is the center button in the middle of the 4-way controller, and it can actually accept up to 5 functions stored on it - I like to keep ISO, focus area, metering mode, white balance, and shoot mode on C. My right arrow is for AE lock. Down arrow always has EV adjustment on it, and left arrow always has drive mode. So with these, you have 8 or 9 major adjustment controls at your fingertips without ever going into the menu!

Other suggestions: once you get used to the camera, you might find those 'screen tips' to be a little annoying - personally, they're the very first thing I disable (set up menu, disable screen tips). You can also adjust the display to a more advanced mode just showing your settings, rather than all the overlay graphics.

For most of us who have customized our controls, the cameras become perfectly intuitive, and it actually doesn't matter anymore how much I dislike the menus, since pretty much the only time I use them at all is to go into Setup to format cards.
 
I agree with Justin, once you customize your buttons you won't use the menus that often. I set my soft key C to control Metering, WB, Flash mode, Focus, and ISO. My right key controls Flash Comp. My B key controls Focus point and Focus assist. As far as video is concerned I haven't adjusted settings. At this minute my Nex is boxed up to go to Sony for the clicking fix. Markie, did you check to see if your Nex makes a clicking noise when recording video? Sony pays for shipping both ways to send it in to remedy the problem. I heard the turn around is 5 days.

Justin, I just got the La-ea2 and SAL35F18 last night. I tested it indoors last night and I'm not sure if this combo focuses any better in low lighting. Testing this setup vs the 18-55 kit lens, I found that when focusing in low light the 35 missed focus sometimes where the kit lens would lock spot on. I'm just trying to decide if this combo is worth $500. I haven't tried it outdoors yet. What's your opinion?
 
I've actually never tried the LAEA2 - I've only briefly tried the EA1 version. From folks I've heard who used them, they seem to claim it's as fast as any typical DSLR - I honestly don't see why it shouldn't be, since it has phase detect sensors onboard - in daylight, I doubt most folks would notice the focus speed difference between CDAF and PDAF unless tracking a fast-moving subject - but in low light, the LAEA2 should lock on faster than the Emount lenses. I know my A580 will focus several times faster than my NEX-5N in low light (very low light).
 
Thanks guys, I will tinker with the settings till they're more like my A55 buttons. That was a lot easier to use. I was just sent a handbook from Sony and you have to go into Menu>Image Size>File Format>Desired mode and you can change it to 60p or 24p instead of the stock 60i but it does warn you iMovie, final cut pro, and a few other big video editing software do not do 60p yet. But I definitely will check to see if it clicks and I guess that's why they were back ordered for awhile, there was supposed to be a new batch according to our Sony rep at Best Buy.
 
Hey Markie, the 5n that I just got was a new batch from Sony Store online. I know because the new batches don't have the protective film on the screen. I didn't think it would click either but I'm glad I checked before our WDW trip next month. I don't really shoot video but it's nice to have to catch my 5 and 1 year olds in the moment.
 
Hey Markie, the 5n that I just got was a new batch from Sony Store online. I know because the new batches don't have the protective film on the screen. I didn't think it would click either but I'm glad I checked before our WDW trip next month. I don't really shoot video but it's nice to have to catch my 5 and 1 year olds in the moment.

Really??? Mine had a protective film on my screen. I will have to check. I hope not or it well end up ruining my trip.


*update* Just checked and no clicking noises. I tested inside, outside, with MF with AF and no clicking noise. Now HSP3, any more tips you have from your experience so far? Another thing I should mention is we are getting a batch in bound to our Best Buy of NEX 7's but I read that going 24 mp was a bad idea because low light performance and sharpness on the 5n are beating it so far. But who knows, a firmware upgrade to the 7 could make it the beast it should be.
 


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