best dvc deal

[johnkrusinski]

what is the best deal on a dvc property that you have heard of lately. what was the price and at what property.thanks

 

[JimMIA]

The lowest prices are resales. Click here ROFR thread for the latest reports on successful (and a few -- very few -- unsuccessful) resales.

 

[Dean]

I think SSR is the best value because it's around the cheapest ON SITE, has a somewhat later expiration, and has reasonable controlled fees. Realize that the ROFR thread is historical and the prices are trending downward. Unless one is looking at a very small contract or a very loaded contract, I think the mid $40's is possible but might take a few no responses before one gets a contract. The principles apply to any home resort but the numbers will vary. OKW should be even cheaper for a 2042 expiration, VB and HH will also be cheaper but they have a lower value as well.

 

[Sandisw]

The thread shows that someone got BLT in the 60's. To me, this is the best overall deal so far.

It expires in 2060, has lower MF's, and is a popular resort. So, getting that only 2 year old resort for over $70/ppt less than buying direct is a wonderful deal.

Now, Disney has ROFR'd a few contracts this week, which has not been done in awhile. Prices have definitely come down in the past two years as I just got BWV for $55, when it was between $75 and $80/ppt when I became a DVC member in 2009.

 

[gatorskin76]

Obviously BLT in the 60's would be a steal and it would be hard to compete with that value, but I think that is probably the exception and not the rule until a few more of those are reported. It seems mid to high 80's is reasonably attainable for BLT. I haven't been following all of the resorts, but I have been looking at a few very closely recently and it seems that the going rates for a good deal are right around:

BWV - low 50's
BLT - mid to high 80's
BC - high 70's
VWL - mid 50's

I think if you are going to plan your trips inside of 7 months for the most part, and/or you are a fan of SSR then it is hard to compete with the pricing there. The MF's will also probably remain manageable in relation to other resorts. However, if you like the draw of walking or taking a boat to a park, then you can't go wrong with VWL or BWV in my opinion.

I think BWV is the best "deal" going right now. The combination of price per point and availability of rooms at the very low end of the point per night structure make this a great value. Then throw in the location and the ability to walk to two parks and it wins out in my mind.

The best value would vary from individual to individual however as different people will put different values on all of the variables. I love Beach Club, but I can't personally see paying the premium for what they are currently going for. However, for someone that gets Beach Club for mid 70's, they might think that is the best value even though it is $20 per point more than what they could have had Boardwalk for. Value is subjective.

 

[mousefamily4]

Hello, I am completely ignorant on buying into the DVC. Please help guide me with any negotiations if allowed when purchasing. We are looking at Saratoga Springs since that is where my sales rep is pushing us towards. Is there better deals? They are telling 100.00 a point! That seems like a lot. Also, I heard that you can ask for a free family cruise to close the deal, is this true???
Thanks for any help and suggestions.

 

[Dean]

Hello, I am completely ignorant on buying into the DVC. Please help guide me with any negotiations if allowed when purchasing. We are looking at Saratoga Springs since that is where my sales rep is pushing us towards. Is there better deals? They are telling 100.00 a point! That seems like a lot. Also, I heard that you can ask for a free family cruise to close the deal, is this true???
Thanks for any help and suggestions.

They have purchase incentives all the time, cruises have been a common one lately. $100 a pt for SSR IS a lot, you can get it for about half resale. All you give up is the purchase incentive, easy financing potential and cash type exchange options like DCL. IMO making it harder (but not impossible to finance) and pushing one away form cash type exchanges is doing you a favor, not a disservice. For SSR, I'd definitely go resale. IF you decide to proceed retail and the cruise is an issue, make sure you have the cruise booked you want by the time you sign on the dotted line.

 

[JimMIA]

They are telling 100.00 a point! That seems like a lot.

It is a lot. You should be able to get SSR resale for <$55, and there have been some sales somewhat lower.

Also, I heard that you can ask for a free family cruise to close the deal, is this true???

If you are actually offered that, I'd sure get it in writing, as Dean suggests. If it's a legitimate offer, should be no problem at all to put it in writing in the body of the sales contract.

If your DVC timeshare salesman does that, then you need to calculate the real value of that cruise vs. what you would save paying half resale.

Is a free 7-day cruise REALLY worth the extra price you'd be paying?

Or is it just a 3-day cruise?

I would take a big step back and consider what your family should buy, if anything -- not what your DVC timeshare salesman is selling. You don't work for him, and he sure doesn't work for you!

 

[RayRing]

For those less familiar with DVC, a few cautions might be worth mentioning.

* Resale will be less than purchasing directly from Disney, but come with restrictions.
* It might be more difficult to finance a resale. Disney financing my not be cheaper, but may be more libral.
* You have to evaluate resales carefully. A resale contract may be relitivily cheap, but it may also not have any usable points for 2 years. That doesn't make it a bad deal, but you have to know what your getting.
* Finaly, it might be tempting to get the lowest cost per point, but I think the old saying "buy where you want to stay" still holds true.

 

[mousefamily4]

Can I offer less than what they are asking? Is it like buying a house? Or is there NO NEGOTIATIONS with Retail? If I were to make an offer, what would a reasonable offer be that would not get rejected? Should I ask for the cruise, or do I have to be offered that as well?
Thanks Again!!!

 

[JimMIA]

* Resale will be less than purchasing directly from Disney, but come with restrictions.

...which most folks think are trivial. AND...in the spirit of full disclosure, the benefits which are retained by buying direct are NOT guaranteed and can be changed at any moment by one stroke of the Mouse's pen.

* It might be more difficult to finance a resale. Disney financing my not be cheaper, but may be more libral.

It's not more difficult; the interest rate might be slightly higher than Disney's 10.75% or 14.75% rates. OTOH, you might be able to finance with a home equity loan for half that.

In all honesty, if "libral" (sic) credit policies to get 14.75% interest rates are critical to your decision, you might want to reconsider the entire concept of DVC ownership.

* You have to evaluate resales carefully. A resale contract may be relitivily cheap, but it may also not have any usable points for 2 years. That doesn't make it a bad deal, but you have to know what your getting.

Good point, and equally true of buying direct from Disney. You need to really understand what you are buying (or not buying) whenever purchasing ANY timeshare...but few do.

* Finaly, it might be tempting to get the lowest cost per point, but I think the old saying "buy where you want to stay" still holds true.

Cliches are cool, but just because something gets repeated a lot on an Internet discussion board doesn't mean it's the perfect answer for every family. Sometimes it's just the security blanket for folks too lazy to really figure out what they're doing.

 

[JimMIA]

Or is there NO NEGOTIATIONS with Retail?

There are sometimes special incentives, but no negotiation. And you have to remember that the "incentives" are discounts off a selling price that is often DOUBLE what you could get the same thing for buying resale.

In other timeshare systems, it's even worse -- often people buying direct are paying 100X what they could get the same thing for resale.

 

[mousefamily4]

Thanks for helping out with the questions. Do you own a DVC? If so, did you buy re-sale or direct retail?

 

[JimMIA]

Thanks for helping out with the questions. Do you own a DVC? If so, did you buy re-sale or direct retail?

Both. Bought my first contract resale, then bought a smaller add-on direct when they had a legitimately-good promotion....something they haven't offered in a while.

But that was 'back in the day." Today, the difference between resale and direct is so large that I can't honestly recommend buying direct for any reason except a very small add-on that can't be found on the resale market.

 

[Dean]

* Finaly, it might be tempting to get the lowest cost per point, but I think the old saying "buy where you want to stay" still holds true.

I don't think this ever reasonably applied as it's thrown around the board though I'm guilty of saying it myself when the price differences were much less than they are now. IMO, the better thought is to buy the the best value that gives you what you're comfortable with. Someone who pays $140 a point for BLT then rotates their stays between all of the resorts just wasted most or all of the $$$ difference even with the lower fees which will never make up for much of the higher cost even if the the maint fee differences hold (which they won't).

IMO, it's foolish to finance such a luxury purchase. If one choses to do so it will be easier through DVC but not difficult for most resale either. Paying 50-100% more for the right for easy financing seems a very high cost to me.

One has to look at the specifics of resale more carefully but it's not that difficult to get MORE in a contract and at a lower price than the same contract would represent resale. These contracts are call loaded contracts and since banked points and fees on those points are generally not included as significant assets in valuing a resale, they can be quite the value even at a slightly higher price.

 

[n2mm]

I've seen a BWV sale for $46 a point. I don't know if it passed, but I really wanted it, but it was a differnt UY. I do find that the smaller the contract the higher the point. I saw one I wanted yesterday and called, but the place was closed. I've had addonitis really bad lately and I just can't shake it. It's easier buying the first time vs adding on and wanting to mantain the same UY. I'm an April UY and the contracts are not as easy to find that fit my need right now. When I find it I'm sure this will be my last add on, so I want the right fit!

 

[rsinj]

I've seen a BWV sale for $46 a point. I don't know if it passed, but I really wanted it, but it was a differnt UY. I do find that the smaller the contract the higher the point. I saw one I wanted yesterday and called, but the place was closed. I've had addonitis really bad lately and I just can't shake it. It's easier buying the first time vs adding on and wanting to mantain the same UY. I'm an April UY and the contracts are not as easy to find that fit my need right now. When I find it I'm sure this will be my last add on, so I want the right fit!

Though everyone wants to get the absolute lowest price, and the price/point difference seems huge if you're looking at a $50 vs. $60 per point contract, over the term of your ownership (assuming you own till expiration), the difference is pretty negligable.

Take a 200 point contract, if there were a $2000 difference, over your 30+ years of ownership, you're talking less than $70/year.

You might instead think of it that a couple years ago, it would have been $80/point and not $60.

 

[Dean]

Though everyone wants to get the absolute lowest price, and the price/point difference seems huge if you're looking at a $50 vs. $60 per point contract, over the term of your ownership (assuming you own till expiration), the difference is pretty negligable.

Take a 200 point contract, if there were a $2000 difference, over your 30+ years of ownership, you're talking less than $70/year.

You might instead think of it that a couple years ago, it would have been $80/point and not $60.

Not to me. That same $2000 invested during that 30 years would be worth $20K or more adjusted for inflation depending on specifics.

 

[rsinj]

Not to me. That same $2000 invested during that 30 years would be worth $20K or more adjusted for inflation in 30 years depending on specifics.

It "could" be worth $20K or more in 30 years, not necessarily "would".

 

[Dean]

It "could" be worth $20K or more in 30 years, not necessarily "would".

I think it's safe to say it will if invested reasonably, it could be a lot more but it certainly could be less. All better than zero which is what you have if you overpay for anything. The point is that differences in prices (of anything) at any point in time are not necessarily negligible. Of course it depends in large part what you do with the differences. If you simply blow it, it doesn't matter and brings to mind the old adage of a fool and their money are soon parted. And if you finance those differences, it's a double whammy.