Saturday 2 March 2024 Black Taxi Tour West Belfast
This morning started with buffet breakfast in the main lobby area of the hotel. I included breakfast each day with my hotel package, but its an optional extra.
Breakfast in hotels in Ireland is very different to breakfast in American hotels.
Cold Items
- Mini croissants
- Bread for toast
- Fruit
- Cold meats and cheese
- Yoghurt
- Jams and butter
- Cereals, cornflakes, muesli
- Apple juice and orange juice
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Hot items
- Scrambled Eggs
- Hard boiled eggs in the shells
- Fried mushrooms
- Potato bread
- Baked Beans
- Fried tomatoes
- Black pudding
- Pork sausages
- Bacon
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Black Pudding is a type of blood sausage. It is flavored with spices and oatmeal. It is cut into rings and fried and is very tasty.
In Ireland our bacon is different to American bacon. It is cured pork loin with a bit of the side attached. It is not crispy like American bacon.
This type of breakfast is a treat for me, I only have it when I stay in hotels, its not an every day breakfast.
Tea and coffee machine
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After breakfast I went back to my room to get ready for the day.
At 11am I was back in the hotel lobby where I had arranged to meet with a tour guide for a Black Taxi Tour of West Belfast. It cost me £50 for about 90 minutes. The pick up point was the lobby of my hotel and he bought me back to my hotel.
After a few minutes it was obvious which side the driver was from and he knew which side I was from. But it didnt matter. Even though I was on my own , he was very professional and I felt totally safe. His job was to keep the history alive and to make sure those from both side are not forgotten.
A Black Taxi is a type of vehicle used mainly in London as a taxi. They have a large interior and can seat up to 5 people.
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Over the last number of years, Black Taxi Tour of West Belfast have become a popular and safe way to visit the area
around the Falls Road and Shankill Road which are the Catholic and Protestant' areas where The Troubles were centred.
These tours are by local people, many in their 50's and 60's who have lived and experienced life in Belfast.
For those who may not know The Troubles is the name give to the time period between 1968 and 1998. These 30 years were years of major conflict and saw the building of The Peace Wall which separates these two areas. Theres a huge amount of history in those 30 years, the why and the who and the consequences.
I grew up watching all the news reports in the 1980's and 1990's. In Dublin we have BBC Northern Ireland so long before the internet we had the local news from Belfast and knew so much more that what even people in England knew about.
In 1998 The Good Friday Agreement made peace possible. Since 1998 the economy in Northern Ireland has recovered and the standard of living is now the same as in UK and Republic of Ireland. Without The Good Friday Agreement Games of Thrones and the Titanic Museum and the booming tourist industry would not be possible.
As an Irish Catholic from Dublin, I am acutely of my personal safety in Belfast. While I am fine in the main shopping areas and around the Titanic Quarter, and I feel just as safe as I do in Dublin, I would never just take a walk up The Falls Road. Doing a Black Taxi Tour is the safest way for me to see the places I grew up watching news reports about.
Before 1998 there would be no way someone like me could take a taxi to the Shankill Road and get out and see the murals. Over the years, from various jobs and in social settings I have had friends from The North, but its always been an unspoken rule that The Troubles are never asked about or spoken about. Its just something you dont even acknowledge. We all know but we keep conversations about our shared experience or job or whatever has brought us together.
The Black Taxi Tour really filled in so much for me, things Ive always wondered about but could never ask. While things have changed and the economy is booming and a generation have now grown up never knowing the horrific times of The Troubles, the Peace Wall still exists, separating the two communities. Gates are locked at 6pm every day and in fact one gate is lacked at 12pm every day, as that particular street is still very volatile.
I did not take any photos during the tour, but I did see other taxi tour groups taking photos.
I know its hard for Americans to understand and visualise that its all so localized. It only took 2 hours by bus on the motorway for me to get here.
I have seen some criticism from Americans about the Black Taxi tour, that the driver had a bias, that they knew which side the driver favoured. But for me, thats the point, its in your face and its real and raw, and its not sanitized or dumbed down. The taxi drivers lived it back then and live there now. To them its not abstract history , its their life.
If you are ever in Belfast, please do a Black Taxi tour. Its important that these stories are told and the history is not lost.
After the tour I went around the shops. It was a Saturday afternoon and very busy. I had watched some
YouTube vlogs about Belfast and saw a great pizza place recommended so I decided to go there for my evening food. They were very busy and not taking walk ups so I made a reservation for the next day.
I decided to just go to McDonalds instead. I rarely go to Mcdonalds at home, so it was nice to have a treat.
After McDonalds I just went back to my hotel as I dont like to be out and about after dark. Im not really a pub or nightlife person.