ATTN..All campers..espec..those with trailers..HELP..

[bsjs0708]

Soooo..DH finally said he's ready to buy a trailer!!!!!!! YAY!! Been waiting for this for 2 years.. Anyhooo...so we are looking for 26 - 29 foot,1 slide out and would prefer to sleep 6 . Must be lite as we have a 1500 Silverado so max is 6000llbs..ANY AND ALL input, suggestions,recommendations would be appreciated and considefed....Thanks..y'all...

 

[FortForever]

I have no recommendations, but congratulations! That's so exciting!

 

[friendofeeyore]

So excited for you! Good luck finding the right RV that will fit your needs. If a RV show will be in your area, try making it. Have all sizes & normally better pricing. I love to go & just see what is new in RV traveling.

 

[4077]

We have 2014 Flagstaff Microlite 25BHS....Google for a look at floorplan. They still make almost identical floor plan but with a few improvements (at least they are improvements in my opinion. Came in at dry weight of just under 4400 lbs my model year. "Sleeps 6", but actually sleeping 6 would be pushing it I think. Good luck and have fun in your search!

 

[peg110]

We just traded in (a couple of months ago) a 2005 Coachmen Capri Ruby edition 27TBS. Now it's GVRW was around 7000# but our F-150 (gas) Crew Cab towed it fine. It's Dry weight was around 5000#. Are you sure the SIlverado 1500 is maxed at 6000# ?

The TT was Spec'd at sleeping 8. Queen bed in front (2) Bunk beds in back (2) Fold Out Couch (2) and fold down Dinette (2). Ours had one (LONG) slide which was for the kitchen and Couch (drivers side). It served us well for our family of 4 (and then oldest DD18's BF21 making it 5).

Just note that the fold out couches and drop down dinettes do NOT sleep 2 adults (or even teens) very well. Anyone over about 5 feet will find it difficult to put 2 each in those locations. My DD18's BF21 sleeps crossways on the fold out (like a futon) couch.

To get a capacity to truly sleep 6 (normal size folks and not toddlers/smaller children), you would probably need a larger bunkhouse. Some have 2 sets of bunk beds and will get you 4 sleep spots (as well as the typical Master with a queen bed). There are other configurations too that have fold out cushions for the floor that can work as well (cushions on floor plus bunks overhead, etc...) These TT's though tend to be larger and exceed the towing weight of 6000#

Alternatively many Hybrids could also be a good option. They are a balance of versatility with weight and can give you more options.

Good luck in your hunting for the perfect Camper. And as was mentioned, the RV shows are a great place to see your options.

 

[North of Mouse]

Congratulations - the 'best' way to go!!

You can do a lot of research online for floorplans, specs, etc.'
Also, go to the RV shows - very informative when you can actually 'see' the trailers.
But, just be aware, as pp's have said, just because they 'say' it will sleep a certain #, it usually doesn't mean it will be a very comfortable fit!!! Some sleeping areas are very small and will 'not' accommodate teens/adults. Also, you don't want 'wall to wall' beds - you 'do' need some moving around space -

What you want comfortably with one slide may not be easy to find with weight/length limitations - lots will depend on the ages/sizes of the 6 people. Good luck!

Soooo..DH finally said he's ready to buy a trailer!!!!!!! YAY!! Been waiting for this for 2 years.. Anyhooo...so we are looking for 26 - 29 foot,1 slide out and would prefer to sleep 6 . Must be lite as we have a 1500 Silverado so max is 6000llbs..ANY AND ALL input, suggestions,recommendations would be appreciated and considefed....Thanks..y'all...

 

[jbrostek]

The best recommendation I can make for first purchase is start with budget. Once you know cash or finance what you can afford, then look at your tow vehicle. Get ALL the specs from the plate on your vehicle and write them down. Don't go by what the sales person claims it can tow, look at your own vehicles abilities.

Once you know what you can handle weight wise, you can start looking online at floor plans. From there you can also get manufacturer weight specs. But If you are torn on what you really want, find a nearby RV show and go look. Talk with dealers, but do not settle on a deal unless you found the absolute one. And even then while most of the time they wont budget on the show price, beat them up on everything else from processing fees to cost of a hitch. I spent 2 hours negotiating dealer installed options and ended up with a great deal for my 2014 Sanibel.

 

[peg110]

look at your tow vehicle. Get ALL the specs from the plate on your vehicle and write them down. Don't go by what the sales person claims it can tow, look at your own vehicles abilities.

^^^^^^^ AGREE with this 100% ^^^^^^^

I will also say that you need to educate yourself on the different weights and what they mean.
Dry weight, unladen weigh, Tare weight - Typically the trailer with the base options. May or may not include Propane weight. Options are usually extra weight. Also does not include Water in this weight.

Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR), Gross Weight is the MAXIMUM that the trailer can tow with all equipment, options, fluids, etc....

Net Weight, Cargo Weight is the weight of what you can add. The GVWR - the Dry Weight. (including passengers where applicable)

Tongue/hitch Weight - The weight that is effectively applied to the hitch. This is a factor of "Loading" as you can effect the tongue weight by shifting cargo in the front or rear of the trailers axles.

Axle Weight - The total weight that each axle can bare.

Pin Weight - Weight of the Pin for the "Fifth Wheel" type hitches. Typically over top of the Tow Vehicles Rear axle.

Gross combined weight Rating (GCWR) - The maximum combined weight of Tow Vehicle with the Towed trailer.

These are just a few. You need to be careful not to exceed ANY of them as exceeding them can impact your vehicles (either towed or towing) performance and/or safety. Many of the above weights apply to both the trailer AND the vehicle (Both will have a GVWR for example) and some apply to both but have a different meaning. The Tongue weight for example, on the trailer it's how much it will weigh, but on the tow vehicle (and hitch) it's how much it can handle. So if you have a trailer with a tongue weight of 700# and a hitch rated for 800# you are good, but if it's reverse... Then it's a bigger issue.

It's also good to try and keep about 80% under your rated towing capacity. If you vehicle can tow 10,000# you should try and limit it to about 8,000# for better performance. The closer you get to rated weights, the more issues you may encounter and the more difficult it will be to tow.

This is a lot of information and I know it can be overwhelming, but if you let the Salesman talk you into something, you may have bigger expenses then you expected. It's much better to know the basics before you decide to buy.

Good luck and I hope I (we) didn't scare you away. Of course if you have any questions please post them.

 

[bsjs0708]

I have no recommendations, but congratulations! That's so exciting!

Thanks!

 

[bsjs0708]

We have 2014 Flagstaff Microlite 25BHS....Google for a look at floorplan. They still make almost identical floor plan but with a few improvements (at least they are improvements in my opinion. Came in at dry weight of just under 4400 lbs my model year. "Sleeps 6", but actually sleeping 6 would be pushing it I think. Good luck and have fun in your search!

I am going to definitely look into this!

 

[bsjs0708]

We just traded in (a couple of months ago) a 2005 Coachmen Capri Ruby edition 27TBS. Now it's GVRW was around 7000# but our F-150 (gas) Crew Cab towed it fine. It's Dry weight was around 5000#. Are you sure the SIlverado 1500 is maxed at 6000# ?

The TT was Spec'd at sleeping 8. Queen bed in front (2) Bunk beds in back (2) Fold Out Couch (2) and fold down Dinette (2). Ours had one (LONG) slide which was for the kitchen and Couch (drivers side). It served us well for our family of 4 (and then oldest DD18's BF21 making it 5).

Just note that the fold out couches and drop down dinettes do NOT sleep 2 adults (or even teens) very well. Anyone over about 5 feet will find it difficult to put 2 each in those locations. My DD18's BF21 sleeps crossways on the fold out (like a futon) couch.

To get a capacity to truly sleep 6 (normal size folks and not toddlers/smaller children), you would probably need a larger bunkhouse. Some have 2 sets of bunk beds and will get you 4 sleep spots (as well as the typical Master with a queen bed). There are other configurations too that have fold out cushions for the floor that can work as well (cushions on floor plus bunks overhead, etc...) These TT's though tend to be larger and exceed the towing weight of 6000#

Alternatively many Hybrids could also be a good option. They are a balance of versatility with weight and can give you more options.

Good luck in your hunting for the perfect Camper. And as was mentioned, the RV shows are a great place to see your options.

I absolutely agree we'll need bunks..We are all adults, and some over 6' .Well be using it ourselves as well as letting our brother and dsughter and son in law borrow as well. And probably go on trips together...

 

[bsjs0708]

We just traded in (a couple of months ago) a 2005 Coachmen Capri Ruby edition 27TBS. Now it's GVRW was around 7000# but our F-150 (gas) Crew Cab towed it fine. It's Dry weight was around 5000#. Are you sure the SIlverado 1500 is maxed at 6000# ?

The TT was Spec'd at sleeping 8. Queen bed in front (2) Bunk beds in back (2) Fold Out Couch (2) and fold down Dinette (2). Ours had one (LONG) slide which was for the kitchen and Couch (drivers side). It served us well for our family of 4 (and then oldest DD18's BF21 making it 5).

Just note that the fold out couches and drop down dinettes do NOT sleep 2 adults (or even teens) very well. Anyone over about 5 feet will find it difficult to put 2 each in those locations. My DD18's BF21 sleeps crossways on the fold out (like a futon) couch.

To get a capacity to truly sleep 6 (normal size folks and not toddlers/smaller children), you would probably need a larger bunkhouse. Some have 2 sets of bunk beds and will get you 4 sleep spots (as well as the typical Master with a queen bed). There are other configurations too that have fold out cushions for the floor that can work as well (cushions on floor plus bunks overhead, etc...) These TT's though tend to be larger and exceed the towing weight of 6000#

Alternatively many Hybrids could also be a good option. They are a balance of versatility with weight and can give you more options.

Good luck in your hunting for the perfect Camper. And as was mentioned, the RV shows are a great place to see your options.

Yes, I forgot to mention 6000 is what DH says he's comfortable pulling...

 

[bsjs0708]

The best recommendation I can make for first purchase is start with budget. Once you know cash or finance what you can afford, then look at your tow vehicle. Get ALL the specs from the plate on your vehicle and write them down. Don't go by what the sales person claims it can tow, look at your own vehicles abilities.

Once you know what you can handle weight wise, you can start looking online at floor plans. From there you can also get manufacturer weight specs. But If you are torn on what you really want, find a nearby RV show and go look. Talk with dealers, but do not settle on a deal unless you found the absolute one. And even then while most of the time they wont budget on the show price, beat them up on everything else from processing fees to cost of a hitch. I spent 2 hours negotiating dealer installed options and ended up with a great deal for my 2014 Sanibel.

Good to know We are going to be checking out bunch of floor plans,styles,etc....Hopefully I can find an RV show here in DFW area..We've to one before but now that we're serious about purchasing we really need to go again before we buy...

 

[bsjs0708]

^^^^^^^ AGREE with this 100% ^^^^^^^

I will also say that you need to educate yourself on the different weights and what they mean.
Dry weight, unladen weigh, Tare weight - Typically the trailer with the base options. May or may not include Propane weight. Options are usually extra weight. Also does not include Water in this weight.

Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR), Gross Weight is the MAXIMUM that the trailer can tow with all equipment, options, fluids, etc....

Net Weight, Cargo Weight is the weight of what you can add. The GVWR - the Dry Weight. (including passengers where applicable)

Tongue/hitch Weight - The weight that is effectively applied to the hitch. This is a factor of "Loading" as you can effect the tongue weight by shifting cargo in the front or rear of the trailers axles.

Axle Weight - The total weight that each axle can bare.

Pin Weight - Weight of the Pin for the "Fifth Wheel" type hitches. Typically over top of the Tow Vehicles Rear axle.

Gross combined weight Rating (GCWR) - The maximum combined weight of Tow Vehicle with the Towed trailer.

These are just a few. You need to be careful not to exceed ANY of them as exceeding them can impact your vehicles (either towed or towing) performance and/or safety. Many of the above weights apply to both the trailer AND the vehicle (Both will have a GVWR for example) and some apply to both but have a different meaning. The Tongue weight for example, on the trailer it's how much it will weigh, but on the tow vehicle (and hitch) it's how much it can handle. So if you have a trailer with a tongue weight of 700# and a hitch rated for 800# you are good, but if it's reverse... Then it's a bigger issue.

It's also good to try and keep about 80% under your rated towing capacity. If you vehicle can tow 10,000# you should try and limit it to about 8,000# for better performance. The closer you get to rated weights, the more issues you may encounter and the more difficult it will be to tow.

This is a lot of information and I know it can be overwhelming, but if you let the Salesman talk you into something, you may have bigger expenses then you expected. It's much better to know the basics before you decide to buy.

Good luck and I hope I (we) didn't scare you away. Of course if you have any questions please post them.

Wnoa! Thanks so much! Lots and lots of information. I knew I came to the right place for advice..you are awesome!

 

[Clifton Tesh]

Here's one I've been looking at. Has double bed bunks in the rear and a queen up front.

http://www.forestriverinc.com/product-details.aspx?LineID=216&ShowParent=1&ModelID=2228#Main

 

[Scootypuffjr]

A couple brands have ultra lites with a full size bed bunk house, slide out, and queen size Murphy bed. They came in under 6,000 lbs because we were looking at towing them with a V6 F150. We really like the Murphy bed because it gave you so much more room during the day.

 

[TheRustyScupper]

Yes, I forgot to mention 6000 is what DH says he's comfortable pulling...

1) Towing Weights
. . . if 2-wheel-drive and 5300 engine, 6,700#-7,700#
. . . if 4-wheel drive and 5300 engine, 7,500#-7,800#
2) Check your owner manual for different engine and drivetrain weight specs
3) Also check for the total gross combined weight rating (GCWR )
. . . vehicle-trailer-passengers-luggage-options combined weight
. . . impacts the load/stress on the engine-trans-axles)

 

[peg110]

That's nice but be mindful of your weight limit. This vehicles UVW (Dry/unladen weight) is 5066 Leaving you only 934 Pounds for "Stuff" based on your imposed towing weight limit of 6000. (It looks like the CCC - Cargo Carrying Capacity, is just shy of a TON though which makes me wonder why the GVWR is TBD. GVWR is essentially the UVW + CCC, but I digress..... )

So if you are limited to 934# of "Stuff" be mindful that the water will take about 320# (roughly 8#/Gallon and roughly 40 Gallons). Your capacity is higher at 44 gallons but yo don't have to fill it up to travel (many will fill about half way so as to be able to use the water for flushing or washing en-route and then top of at destinations).

Also don't forget to add on weight for things like Tools, Sewer hoses, extension cords, water hoses, leveling blocks grills, food, clothes, etc... While 934# does seem like a lot, it can go very quickly.

As TRS points out above, your vehicle maybe able to tow more but of course your DH needs to be comfortable about it.

Alternatively, you can shift some of the cargo weight to the truck. After all, the bed of a truck is great for hauling "Stuff". Maybe not so well if you don't have a Truck Cap or a Toneau cover though. If you do do this, please be mindful of the GCVWR - Gross Combined Vehicle Weight Rating which is the maximum weight of a loaded vehicle and its attached loaded trailer. (Get the calculator out!)

I do like the trailer though. I am not trying to discourage you. I am just trying to point out some of the concerns YOU had (mostly about the weights). Don't want you to start out with a bad experience.

Of course this could be a chance for the DH to "Lobby" for a newer truck!

We had looked at those types of bunkhouses. I will definitely say that I'd prefer the "Double" bed bunks as opposed to the "Twins". Certainly much more room for kids (or adults) when using it for a single person.

 

[Clifton Tesh]

Cargo Carrying Capacity, is just shy of a TON though which makes me wonder why the GVWR is TBD.

For some reason forest river no longer publishes their GVWR. I have no idea why.

Maybe they feel having someone do the math will make them more conscience to the actual weight or maybe they feel they were losing trailer sales because people were looking at the GVWR and saying "nope, can't tow that".

 

[TheRustyScupper]

Also don't forget to add on weight for things like Tools, Sewer hoses, extension cords, water hoses, leveling blocks grills, food, clothes, etc

And, people.