Any car mechanics out there?

goofyfordisney

DIS Veteran
Joined
Aug 1, 2001
Messages
1,201
Hi,

Our DS's 2001 Ford Ranger truck needs a head gasket replacement...ughhh! We purchased the truck 2 years ago for $5K and its been a great truck until recently. We recently replaced the fuel pump, and now it has a blown head gasket.

We were given a quote from our mechanic for $2500!! That just seems like a lot of money to sink into a truck that is probably only worth $3K. The truck has 130K miles.

Anyone know what it should cost to replace and head gasket? Is $2,500 a reasonable quote? I'm leaning towards not doing it, and my husband thinks we should...

WWYD?
 
Be sure to call around and get a few estimates that include a breakdown of parts and labor.

In a certain way, it may not matter what the truck is worth, but how much it would cost you to replace it. It might be better to pay 2500 than to take on 4 years of payments combined with the down payment.

Is the rest of the truck in good shape? If the engine were repaired, would you keep it for at least 2 more years?

Just do a little research and make sure that your "engine family" does not have a major design flaw. If your engine has a good reputation, it might be worth fixing.
 
Not a mechanic but i do all of the work on my cars myself.. so here is my 2 cents...

Too much money although probably realistic. Call the dealer and ask what the book time is for a HG replacement on that truck. Probably 8 hrs and at $100+ per hour you are looking at 8 to 9 hundred in labor alone. Also ask if there is any recalls on it.

Now and this is a big now...is your mechanic going to machine the heads and check for cracks? Probably and that would push it higher (plus he needs to make his boat payment this month). If it was my car i would be looking at how much it would cost for a rebuilt engine. It may cost just as much for a Jasper engine installed including all parts. Lastly, if the car is worth 3k and they want $2500 to fix it then it is time for a new car.

Oh......... If the hubby and son need some bonding time...changing out the engine is possible in the driveway. It can be done in a weekend as long as the replacement is a "drop in" i.e. complete ready to run. With a drop in expect to spend another couple hundred for a water pump, belts and hoses and you may consider also changing the radiator... This is why when you start pushing repair costs close to the value then it may be time to move on unless it has sentimental value... Bob Vila (this old house) coined the phrase, "the you might as wells". You are doing this so you might as well do that also...since you already have it apart... When you call the dealer ask what they would charge. The dealers are seriously hurting right now and they may cut you a deal...
 

My DH is in the car business and here is his two cents: It would probably cost about $1500 - $1800 to fix. However, with so many miles on that engine, it probably isn't worth it. You could look into buying a a used engine with less miles on it and that would come with all the gaskets, etc. A used engine probably runs $800 - $900, depending where you get it.

Good luck!
 
I blew a head gasket back in the late 90's -- by then, the (expensive) repaid estimate was more than the 1988 car was worth (I ended-up ahead by parting the rest of the car out).
 
This is a great website that I have used.. it gives you the least you can expect to pay and the maximum for your car repair. http://repairpal.com/

Thanks for this website! My car broke down yesterday and my mechanic is charging me $671 to replace my fuel pump. At least I know they are charging about right. Actually on the lower end. :) Although that amount is crazy, better than buying a new car. Mine is paid off.
 
Don't look up the part cost, it will make you sick.

I changed the gasket in my Honda myself. I saved $870. It had 179,000 miles on it so I didn't bother with having the head shaved. I just checked it for level myself. It was close enough for me with that kind of miles on it.

I did look up a head gasket kit at Advanced Auto for a 4.0L V6. I'd hate to see what they are charging for labor hours on that based on the cost of the gasket itself.....

A tip, a dealership shop will charge labor based on the book time. A mechanic will charge labor based on how long he expects it to take and what he quotes. Labor hourly rates are also far cheaper for a mechanic than a dealership. They don't call them "stealerships" for nothing...
 
Thanks for all of the replies...guess we have some more research to do! I did look up the estimate on repairpal.com - the estimate is far less than what we were quoted by our mechanic. :confused3
 
I own a garage and my computer program says anywhere from 7-8 hours depending on engine liter size, A/C? . We are $80 an hour.

You would also need to factor in cost of parts. We send all machine work out and it comes with a warranty.

HTH
 
I own a garage and my computer program says anywhere from 7-8 hours depending on engine liter size, A/C? . We are $80 an hour.

You would also need to factor in cost of parts. We send all machine work out and it comes with a warranty.

HTH

Yes, the truck has A/C...I'm not sure what engine liter size it is...

A lot of people have suggested getting a used engine with less miles. Are we better off getting a used engine installed, that has less miles on it? :confused3

When you get a used engine, does this also mean that the transmission is part of the engine? I so don't no anything about this sort of thing!
 
My husband is asleep, so please take my opinion as that of the secretary who is at the shop every.single.day LOL

I don't think 130k miles is a lot. My 2002 Yukon XL has 192,000 and runs just fine. The key is preventative maintenance, worth thousands in repairs later. Lots of stuff you can do yourself :)

I think just doing the head is fine IF the shop gives you a parts and labor warranty of at least a year. Is the garage reputable? Been around a long time? Seems busy (a good sign)?

As a small business that's been around 34 years I promise I do NOT want to rip anyone off and I bet most small garages feel the same. My customer return business/referrals is what keeps me in business, I want you to be satisfied.

The big factor is the cost of the part, and this late I can't check on prices. You need to get ALL the truck info year, engine liter (or at least the 8th digit of the VIN#), 2wd or 4wd and call around, ask how much and what is the warranty. Ask your friends who they recommend or who to avoid.

I know it's a scary position to be in, do your research and ask the mechanic what he thinks you should do. There are many times we tell customers they are better off junking car than doing repairs. Just this Friday a poor lady towed her old Dodge Dynasty in and the estimate to fix it was so out of reality that she had to have it crushed, she made $415 but has no car now.

Good luck to you :goodvibes
 
I did not mention the "replace the whole engine" option as I thought it might scare you. There have been a lot of good points brought up and you seem to have a good attitude about your new project.

If you guys have been doing regular oil changes on your engine it should be fine once the repair is made.

Is your transmission a stick or an automatic? If a stick, and you replace the engine, you might have them replace the clutch at the same time.If an automatic...................have you guys changed a fluid and filter in it several times so far? If not, the lack of maintenenace may make the transmission your weakest link after the engine project is done.

Keep interacting with the board here, keep giving us the details of your research, and keep us posted..................and be sure to tell us the engine your truck has in it. A 4 cylinder and a V-6 are very different and the cost to repair each style will vary.
 
and be sure to tell us the engine your truck has in it. A 4 cylinder and a V-6 are very different and the cost to repair each style will vary.

There is a black and white sticker on top of the radiator. In the upper right or left hand corner it will tell the size of the engine. I have never been a fan of junk yard engines but if you have a big junk yard in your area pay them a visit and they may have the truck there with the engine still in it. Then you can see the condition of the truck and miles. Most yards will pull it for you with a small cost in labor. They may even install it in your truck for a small cost in labor and give you a few dollars back on the old engine. Just because the HG is leaking does not mean it isn't good for parts to someone.
 
First reaction to the price was OMG.

DH replaces head gaskets on his little Mazda 323 all the time. LITTLE would be the word there.

Also, he knows what he is doing, so he sort has a system down and the "dance steps" are pretty much from memory now.

The part itself is expensive for what it really is, but the part and some work on your husband's part may save you a lot money.

IT really depends on a few things. What is your husband's handy ability level and your patience for the vehicle being out of service while he works on it?

Good luck.
 
The part itself is expensive for what it really is, but the part and some work on your husband's part may save you a lot money.
You really think so? I paid $29.95 for the head gasket of my Honda Civic and changed it myself. Shop gave me a $900 quote.

I looked up the Ford Ranger. Now granted, there are many engine options, I just looked at the 4.0L V6. $42 for the head gasket set, compared to $2500 complete from a shop? The parts are dirt cheap.
 
You really think so? I paid $29.95 for the head gasket of my Honda Civic and changed it myself. Shop gave me a $900 quote.

.


Just curious. How long did it take you and did you have all of the tools that you needed to do it yourself at home?
 
Just curious. How long did it take you and did you have all of the tools that you needed to do it yourself at home?
A socket set and a torque wrench, all you need. Maybe a plastic scraper to scrape any old gasket off the head or the block. I just cleaned the surfaces with PBBlaster.

It took me about 6 hours I'd say on the Honda, but that was in the evening after work over 2 days. Pulled it first evening, cleaned out the cylinders since they were filled with antifreeze, put it back together the following evening. That was with no head work. I just gave it a brief look with a straight edge, not very precise at all, but it did have nearly 180k miles so I wasn't that worried about it.

I'm the furthest away from a mechanic. I just do it because I don't have that kind of money laying around to take it to the shop. I changed the clutch in my old truck as well, $1200, cost me $125 for a high performance aftermarket clutch and a weekend of time.

When they tell you that you need to replace a rebuildable item, that is where they really get you. $475 for a remanufactured starter just for the part at Toyota on my old truck. I called and asked for the rebuild kit and they had no such item. I got off the phone and on the internet, "What was the part number for the rebuild kit again?" Immediately called Toyota parts back with the kit number and the same guy says, "Oh, yea, the starter rebuild kit. Yeah, we can get that in, $11.95" 10 minutes before that it wasn't available and they would have ordered me a remanufactured starter for $475.

Brakes are the same way. Midas and Monroe are notorious for telling you that the brake calipers need replaced just about every time you get brakes done there. $300some later, you have a new caliper, of which you could have spent about $4, taken the seals out, cleaned the piston, put the new seals in and had it fixed.

Changed a ball joint on my old Toyota. Brother-in-law worked for a dealership and he had access to the shop after hours. I went there so we could use the lift. Instructions are to pull the brake caliper, pull rotor, pull hub, pull axle, disconnect everything, remove ball joint, replace and reassemble. Shop book states 2.5 hours, at $80-100 that is a bit expensive. In reality, the mechanic would charge that 2.5 hour rate, but do the same thing we did. Pull the tire, unbolt the ball joint. One guy lift up the suspension with a prybar while the other removes and replaces ball joint. Bolt it back up and put tire back on. Literally took us 5 minutes, but would have been charged $200-250 labor.

Last year I had to change the lower control arms on my wife's vehicle. Now suspension is definitely a real PITA. Had to change them because the dealer free state inspection failed the vehicle. It did take me a while to do these. After having the vehicle in the driveway for nearly a week, it was all back together again and passed inspection. 2 days after that, the ABS sensor ring on the axle broke. Couldn't stop the vehicle because it kept kicking the ABS in (very dangerous and stupid design, IMO.) Since I had just spent the week messing around the suspension swearing up a storm, I broke down and took it to a local guy to replace. First time any of my vehicles had seen a repair shop since about 1994.
 
Thanks to everyone for your help and suggestions - I so appreciate it! :thumbsup2

Since we purchased the truck used, we aren't sure that it had regular oil changes,etc. But since we have owned it (for the last 2 years), we did regular oil changes. I know that we recently replaced the fuel pump too. Not sure about changing the filters?? My son has only put about 13K miles on it since we purchased it.

I kind of LOL every time I read a suggestion that maybe its a job that my DH could do! :lmao: Unfortunately, he's NOT handy at all! He is a real estate agent, so he's really skilled at negotiating good deals! He is going to call our mechanic in the morning and discuss further options (using all the great info that we've received from all of you).

I'll keep you posted - thanks again!
 












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