My simplistic assessment (at dinner) was "the wines were not commensurate with the food." Perhaps a more nuanced insight (the day after) would be that "the wines were not a good match for the food."
Now, I am nobody when it comes to wine. If I had not started to cook with it 10 years ago, I may never have bought my first bottle. Yes, THAT late to the game. Anyone who has seen "SOMM" (and if you have not, and like wine, please do - it is interesting and entertaining) knows you need to be immersed in wine, have ready access to wine, and practice tasting to certify that you know what you are doing - and I am not that. On the other hand, it wasn't my first food-n-wine dinner either. So, having properly introduced my lack of credentials, what I noticed ....
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Consumption - at a table for 8, people seldom finished a serving of wine.
-- I, fresh from the traumatic loss of my Barolo, asked for half pours to ensure that I could make it through all the wines. And still, I did not finish most pours.
-- 3 Tablemates from Napa - acknowledged that they are used to better (local, not marketed)
-- In a word, unlike the Bordeaux Lunch at Monsieur Paul, no one really asked for seconds
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Compliments (or lack thereof)
-- When the Vineyard owner made his rounds to our table, no one spontaneously said "I LOVE this wine" - and his eye roved the table, observing the number of glasses with remaining wine - we smiled, nodded, thanked him - but dead silence on all the normal channels for positive feedback
- Food Match - again, call me undereducated and over-opinionated, but I thought the food was ethereal, multi-layered, artistic and the wine was ... not. I underestimated the true (material) value of the wine (given the prices I see now online) - and maybe a pairing with steak would result in a different opinion - but where I loved the Twomey / Silver Oak (another California set of mostly reds) pairing at the Caligrill dinner (2012), this one I think missed the mark). In any case, since I am 90% about the food, I made mental note ("do not seek this wine" and "I just saved myself 30 minutes on the elliptical") and moved on.
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- And another thing - the wines this night highlighted just how "really, really good" (to know me is to know that means "outstanding") the wine pairing was the night before at the French Laundry. There, each glass was delicious on its own merits, and paired really well with the dish. You know they get it right when even a novice like me understands it.
... and it also makes me appreciate the quality (and price) of wine pairings at VnA - I don't know how Israel does it! Total bargain.
- While I applaud the
spirit of sourcing locally, in this case, Meadowood would have showcased the food and served the customer better to have allowed their SOMM to show his (or her - don't know) stuff and enhance the food with wine unconstrained by place.
You know you're in Buffalo when ... they interviewed the "top ten" local chefs last year, asking them what kitchen innovation they valued the most in the last 10 years - and Mike A said "UPS - because I can get what I need when I want it and am not constrained in what I can offer the customer" - and he did not even have to rebrand his "locavore-plus" message for the media-that-presses-such-things (we're not important enough to bother) ....