When you go to Disney, how do you shoot?

Michelle, in P mode, typically the camera behaves almost exactly like Auto mode...with the difference being the user can change or manually control: focus mode, focus area, metering mode, metering area, ISO, white balance, drive mode, EV, exposure lock, and with most cameras, a 'program shift' mode. All of those functions can be left at defaults or in Auto, or can be adjusted by the user if wanted...it's the thing that makes 'P' much more useful to a lot of people, because they can make the camera as 'automatic' as they feel like, but override some camera decisions when they don't like the choices.

Program shift would address your shutter issue...when in program auto, half-press the shutter and see what aperture and shutter the camera chose. If you disagree with the shutter choice it made, you can rotate the jog wheel, and the camera will 'shift' the exposure by moving the aperture smaller & shutter slower, or aperture bigger and shutter faster (depending on which direction you shift). When the shutter or aperture hits the parameter you wanted, take the shot.
 
Another question for you since you use a K-X. How do you know you are focused on the right location with the lack of LED focus confirmation? I've been told to focus on the eyes as much as possible but find that difficult without visual confirmation.

Justin covered most of that for you, so I will cover the K-x question. It was never an issue for me because I shoot probably 99% of the time with just the center point focus. To use it that way, pre-focus on what you want with a half press and then re-compose the shot. I have the exposure not linked to the half press so that I do not lock the exposure incorrectly.
 
I shoot in "P" mode with dial-spins to drop into Av or Tv as the need requires... Av much more than Tv. M generally only for tripod shooting. Usually, I am moving too fast for "M" mode (and I am quite comfortable with it, having been using full-manual film SLRs for 20 years.) If I need the specific unchanging control of exposure that M gives you, I'll usually just lock the exposure when it's where I want it. If I want specific control of both aperture and shutter speed, I'll use TAv mode; I rarely do though I could see myself moving towards that in the future. More explanations at the bottom of this message.

I find that in full Auto my shutter speed is never correct in low light situations resulting in blurry pictures. A photographer friend suggested I move to TV and last night was my 1st successful shoot in the school gym. I am over the moon that I finally got some good pictures.

I could pull out my manual but it's easier to just ask you. Do you mind telling me what I have control over in P mode?

Another question for you since you use a K-X. How do you know you are focused on the right location with the lack of LED focus confirmation? I've been told to focus on the eyes as much as possible but find that difficult without visual confirmation.

Thanks for always being patient with me. I'm learning just not fast enough. LOL.
Some good news for you: on the Pentax, it's probably easier and faster to do what you want than on just about anything else out there. It's because Program mode is very flexible - in fact, it's called Hyperprogram mode. :teeth: (Side note: I've found that the modern Pentaxes tend to favor a slightly slow shutter speed out of the box, due to the in-camera shake reduction - for static objects, you can get away with a slower shutter speed than you think, but that obviously doesn't help for action shots!)

Here's what you do: Just spin the dial! Out of the box, the K-x is set so that spinning the dial will do a "Program Shift" - which means that it will adjust the aperture, shutter, and ISO. Spin it to the left, and you'll get faster shutter speeds and larger apertures. Spin it to the right, and you'll get slower shutter speeds and smaller apertures. Press the Green button to return to the "normal" program line.

If you want true "Hyperprogram" mode, go into the Menu and find the Green button settings. In there, you can change the dial to adjust the Program Shift, Av, Tv, or to do nothing. If you find yourself wanting to specifically adjust shutter speed mode, set it to Tv. By doing that, the camera will drop into Tv mode as soon as you spin the dial. When you want to go back to Program mode, just press the Green button. This means you can easily do this while your eye is up to the viewfinder; it will be second nature after you've done it a few times.

Hyperprogram is why I rarely leave P mode. With the front and rear dials on the higher-model cameras, one dial immediately drops you into Av and one drops you into Tv. You can switch between then at any time, and the Green button brings you back.

In addition, you can set your "Program Line", and bias Program towards action (fast shutter speed), two kinds of DoF (small or large aperture), MTF (the sharpest aperture as recorded in lab tests, obviously it only works properly with OEM lenses that are in the camera's database!), normal, or Auto. I usually keep mine on "action", since I'm often taking kid photos and need that faster shutter speed. In addition, you can configure how Auto ISO behaves, ie how eager it is to just to a higher ISO level. With all these settings, you can generally make Program behave like you want it to without needing to worry too much about specific settings.
 
Thanks Groucho! You are so much better than the instruction manual!!!!! I'm going to print out your response and play around today. My daughter is dancing at two Irish Step events so I have plenty of time to photograph. LOL!

I wish you lived near New Hampshire, I'd pay you to run a K-X workshop!
 

I use manual probably 90% of the time, it's just where I'm comfortable. When we're moving quick and I'm snapping I put it in Aperture Priority and adjust the EV as needed. I probably shot 70% of my Disneyland/CA Adventure pics in Ap Priority this last trip. My D90 has only ever been in Program once when a photo pass photog put in there so he could use the pop up for fill. (kind of irritated me as I had it set up how I wanted it) I've just never gotten the hang of P mode it seems just as easy to toss it in manual for me. I've used Shutter Priority rarely, mostly on dark rides at the suggestion of other on this board and it worked out well.
As Justin said it's all about knowing what to use and why. How you get there with what works for you is the best way.:thumbsup2 I'm a firm believer in taking all advice and then applying it until you find what you're comfortable with. Never feel like you have to do it a certain way because so and so said that's the way to do it. There are the basics of course but everyone gets there in a different way. What works for one doesn't always work for another.
Justin also mentioned metering modes. I would suggest learning them and what each measures and why you'd want to use them for a particular situation. It will make a huge difference in the way you shoot and the choices you make.
 
Justin also mentioned metering modes. I would suggest learning them and what each measures and why you'd want to use them for a particular situation. It will make a huge difference in the way you shoot and the choices you make.

I absolutely agree. This is one of the most important pieces of knowledge that helped me improve my photography in the past year or 2. If you're going to shoot the shows at Disney, this is critical.

I'm still in that odd place where I use Aperture or Shutter priority all the time at home. But when I get to Disney and have so much else on my mind, and am going from one photographic setting to another quickly, I still have trouble remembering to change my settings.

On our last trip, I made a pledge to myself to change my camera to P mode after every set of photos. Then when I wanted Aperture or Shutter Priority, I switch there, but back to P as a default. It helps those of us who shot on Auto or Program for so many years to avoid really missing some shots. My eye just doesn't always see the flashing readings in the veiwfinder yet!
 


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