What speed film for WDW?

[MistyD]

Getting things together for our trip next week, YIPPEE, and have a question about film. Last trip we used only digital but I want to take my 35mm also. I have a Nikon N60 that I love but I am not sure what speed film to get. Should I use 400 or something higher? Any help is appreciated!

 

[RachelTori]

I'm not an expert, but if you want to take any pictures of Wishes or Illuminations; or even some of the rides where the light isn't bright -- you should use a high-speed film. 800 or higher; and remember, don't use flash for fireworks!

Have a great time!!!

 

[WDW Poly Princess]

I generally just use 200, since the majority of my photos are taken outside during the day. I do use 800 for night time or fireworks, though.

 

[llij]

I normally use 400 speed down there. I haven't taken fireworks pics though!

 

[iceskatejen]

I used 400 during the day (because that's what was recommended for my camera) and 800 at night. Got some good Spectro pics with the 800.

 

[FatCow]

I never use more than 200 ISO and mostly 125 ISO or lower. Much less colour noise, either using digicam or regular 35mm.

 

[Shutterbug]

For me for bright daylight shots I use 100 speed not much difference than 200 speed wise but less grain than 200.
For cloudy days/twlight shots I use 400 and my 50mm lens that opens up to 1.8 apeture or my 28-70mm lens that opens up to 3.5
For night time shows like the ones at MVMCP I use 800 speed and my 50mm lens. I got several shots of the Country bears Christmas with no flash needed with this.

 

[WillCAD]

I shoot mostly 400 for everything, day and night. I have used higher speed, such as 800 and 1600, for night shots, with varying degrees of success.

I find that brand makes a big difference. Fuji is my choice in 35mm film. It does a much better job of capturing the bright colors of WDW, like the brilliant blues of the sky and the beautiful greens of vegetation, than Kodak. Every shot I've ever taken with Kodak film has been washed out, because Kodak film is balanced for more nuetral color in order to give better flesh tones when taking pics of people. Fuji makes flesh tones a bit more reddish but makes everything else far more realistic and vivid.

Fuji 400 will give you the most flexibility and range for your shots. Keep a few rolls of Fuji 800 in your bag for fireworks and other night shots. And be sure to stop into Best Buy or Circuit City and pick up a pocket-sized tripod (around $10) for long-exposure shots like this one:

 

[wickey's friend]

Hey, Will!

I was going to PM you a film question, and here you are!

To make a long story short, we're flying this trip. Since we're talking film here, what should I do with it when we go through security? I have 400 speed. We'll also have some Hi-8 video tapes -- any problems with those?

Thanks, o' photo-guru!

(Sorry if I highjacked this thread!)

 

[purplebelle]

I'm not Will, but...

I think all film can go thru security except for 1000 speed or higher. Correct me if I'm wrong. I'd like to know for sure, also, for my trip later this week.

I think I will use black & white film (400 speed) this time. And we use digital cameras too.

 

[WillCAD]

I'm not Will, but...

I think all film can go thru security except for 1000 speed or higher. Correct me if I'm wrong. I'd like to know for sure, also, for my trip later this week.

I think I will use black & white film (400 speed) this time. And we use digital cameras too.

NO NO NO!!! NEVER LET YOUR FILM GO THROUGH THE XRAYS!

Film 400 or slower will be damaged by 4 trips through the xray machines. Film 800 or faster can be damaged by only one trip through.

ALL FILM WILL BE COMPLETELY RUINED IF PACKED IN CHECKED BAGS!

I play it safe and NEVER let my film get xrayed even once.

I have a page on my web site all about how to safely transport film through airport security:

WillCAD OnLine - Film Tips

Digital cameras, memory cards, and laptops are all perfectly safe going through the xrays.

 

[Geoff_M]

Will is correct about carrying on your film and asking for a hand inspection. It's the only way for your film to travel that's 100% safe.

As for "What film speed to use at WDW?" I'd recommend either 200 or 400. Forget the super fast film. It's a waste of money. I get great fireworks photo with ISO 200 on my digital camera and, when I used to use film, 100 speed film. The biggest trick to low-light photography is to hold the camera still... period. So how do you do this without lugging a tripod around? Simple... steady your camera against a lamp post, or the top of one of the flat-top trash cans at WDW, or a fence railing, etc. You'd be amazed at what you can do. Also if you want some cool night time photos, then turn your flash off, hold the camera still, and take a long exposure photo.

Here are some examples of night time photography at WDW at ISO 200 speed taken with a 2.1 MP Nikon CoolPix point-n-shoot:

Photo 1

Photo 2

Photo 3

 

[Poohbear123]

Nice photos, would you recommend the same for Osborne lights?

 

[zulaya]

For us inexperienced camera people, can you do a long exposure with a digital camera? I have an Olympus D560. Would instructions for a long exposure be in my manual (if I can find it.)?

 

[WillCAD]

I looked your camera up, and it is only capable of exposures up to 1/2 second. Most of the long exposures I have shot at WDW have been between 2 and 4 seconds, so your camera is only partially capable of that type of exposure.

The good news is that you dont have to do anything special to get a long exposure out of any camera. Simply set the camera in Auto mode with the flash turned off, point it at the subject, and click the shutter. The camera will automatically keep the shutter open long enough to get a good exposure (or as long as it's capable of whichever comes first). However, with the shutter being open longer comes the blurr associated with holding the camera in your hands. To get around this, set the auto timer and put the camera on a stable surface or on a tripod. When the timer opens the shutter, you will not be touching the camera, and it will be still enough to catch a low light image over a long periond of exposure without blurring.

 

[Geoff_M]

Poobbear123,

Yep... Osbourne Lights Here I'm resting the camera on the top of a trash can.

 

[Geoff_M]

To get around this, set the auto timer and put the camera on a stable surface or on a tripod. When the timer opens the shutter, you will not be touching the camera, and it will be still enough to catch a low light image over a long periond of exposure without blurring.

The self-timer option will work the best, but you can also get great results even if you are still touching the camera... as long as you are bracing it against something solid. All of my examples above are with me touching the camera in a effort to tilt the camera up, or hold it firmly against, from a fence railing/trash can/lamp post.

On later trips I brought a small tripod (palm sized) for my point-n-shoot (with hands-free self-timer). But for an SLR like the N60 I'd recommend a medium sized bean-bag that you can use to rest the camera on as well as tilt the camera up on and frame your image.