VDH Questions for Purchasing

So, if you buy 150 points today, but split it up into 100 and 50, then next year, they raise the minimum to 175 or 200, do you lose blue card benefits?
None lost. Those two contracts at time of purchase lock you in. However, if minimum does go to that 175 or 200, say you sell the 50 to replace with say LSL. You would need to buy 75 or 100 now to get back to that “Blue” status.
 
None lost. Those two contracts at time of purchase lock you in. However, if minimum does go to that 175 or 200, say you sell the 50 to replace with say LSL. You would need to buy 75 or 100 now to get back to that “Blue” status.
I see both sides. I wouldnt sell one and lose my blue card status so id have to end up selling two if I split it 75 75 50, which sucks.

But I also see the easier out to get to let's say repurposed bwv in 2042 and points charts will probably be off the chain with that and one would need at least 100 points anyways.

An easy out from a three way split would be nice and doesnt hurt my blue card status as long as I dont sell is appealing more to me at the present moment 😆
 
I see both sides. I wouldnt sell one and lose my blue card status so id have to end up selling two if I split it 75 75 50, which sucks.
75/75/50 and 100/50/50 or 50/50/50/50 don’t change the scenario at all. If keep 150 points you stay in. It’s a 100/50 and the 50/50/50 that we are talking about.

If sell any of that after minimums go up, you lose “Blue”. Use 175 as example. You were safe with the 150 (purchase date). If you buy 50 and then decide to sell a 50 from earlier purchase, would still be at 150 but lose status because now not at the 175.

The contracts you are purchasing will be grandfathered. But if sell any of these points to drop you below the current minimum, you would have to buy enough direct to hit that new minimum. (Then from that date your 175 points would be grandfathered at the next minimum change).
 
So, if you buy 150 points today, but split it up into 100 and 50, then next year, they raise the minimum to 175 or 200, do you lose blue card benefits?

I know one reason I kept my first two contracts at 150 was so those contracts would be grandfathered if I pass them to my 2 children. So, presumably, if you passed down a 100 point and a 50 point contract you acquired at a time 150 was all that was required for blue card benefits, that wouldn't cut it for your kids. But, would they actually take away your blue card benefits for the original purchaser if you buy 150 points now, but broken up into smaller contracts and they later raise the minimum?

Maybe worth asking your guide, @Girlstar30, if no one here knows that answer definitively. That said, I think my money is on the introduction of a tiered system of benefits before they raise the minimum required for direct benefits.
No as long as those points were acquired when the requirement was 150 you don’t lose your benefits. If you sell some of your splits and you have under 150 remaining you lose benefits.

2nd scenario if you sell off enough to bring you under 150 and are left with say 100 points and they raise the blue card requirement to 175 you would have to buy 75 points to become blue card again.
 

This is my favorite. Because IF there is ever a point where you sell, new buyers can't buy less than 100 points. So a contract for less could be worth more per point to them. Hopefully we are VDH crew forever, but I know sometimes life happens, and it's good to be prepared!
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Well now she just sent it to me but its like a foreign language. Whatever im just going to sign it 😆 🤣
 
After being treated as a second class citizen for an entire year, I symbolically chose tomorrow to put an end to that. Since not everyone shares my lighthearted spirit, I will leave it at that 😆
i feel you.

have you been to aulani? they really know how to make you feel like second class citizen with those shiny bands
 
I feel 75 is an odd number, when looking for resale contract I try to avoid odd numbers.

I would break it up as

50/70/80

this gives more flexibility in what number you want to off load when you do want to off load some points. having 75/75/50 don’t give you that flexibility.
When we bought our first 306 direct (full summer week 1 bedroom level) at DLH, we did 100/80/70/56 to provide flexibility if we ever decided to sell some off. Figured the 70 and 80 were really good amounts to be in demand for resale value and good amount of points for someone with shorter trips in studios.
 
75/75/50 is my vote....

Now take a gulp and take a breath and go ahead and sign the scroll!
1st 75-point contract:
Current Price: $18,375
Incentive value applied: $4,100
Closing Costs: $118.35
Document Preparation Fee: $250
Offer Price: $14,643.35
20% $2928.67


2nd 75-point contract:
Current Price: $18,375
Incentive value applied: $2,100
Closing costs: $118.35
Document Preparation Fee: $250
Offer Price: $16,643.35
20% $3,328.67

50-point contract:
Current Price: $12,250.00
Incentive value applied: $1,400
Closing costs: $111.75
Document preparation fee: $250
Offer Price: $11,211.75
20% $2242,35

Total Incentive value: $7,600
 
50/70/80

this gives more flexibility in what number you want to off load when you do want to off load some points. having 75/75/50 don’t give you that flexibility.
That’s a cool look with the 150 as 70/80. Easy to visualize the three contracts in the dashboard. The same issues apply though as 75/75/50. Must keep those two adding up to 150. Still selling the 50 first.
 
i feel you.

have you been to aulani? they really know how to make you feel like second class citizen with those shiny bands
I have not but ive heard of those bracelets because my best friend said they apparently thought she was dvc when they went and gave her one and she felt fancy! I didnt ask what they were for, what are they for? 😆

Isn't there some kind of popcorn benefit there too. I was happy they said resale would be allowed at some member gathering, but I still would have been pissed to be blocked out of things and I want my free picture now lol!
 
I feel 75 is an odd number, when looking for resale contract I try to avoid odd numbers.

I would break it up as

50/70/80

this gives more flexibility in what number you want to off load when you do want to off load some points. having 75/75/50 don’t give you that flexibility.
If I ask her to run numbers for me one more time I think shes going to flip out ive had her do it for 5 different scenarios now 🤣🤣
 
If I ask her to run numbers for me one more time I think shes going to flip out ive had her do it for 5 different scenarios now 🤣🤣
I think you are right because there’s no reason to run scenarios. Your cost is your cost regardless of the split. If you split 3 ways your cost is the same if it’s 75/75/50 or 100/50/50
 





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