Tri vs Mono pod?

[psimon]

I am looking for comments and opinions regarding using a tripod vs a monopod. Is a monopod worth it?

Also, either way, I am looking for suggestions for either. I would like something and light that wouldn't be a problem to drag all over WDW and then have available at night for fireworks.

All thoughts appreciated...

---Paul in Southern NJ

 

[rachel09985]

I as well am interested in the answer! I need a tripod also!

 

[Lzika]

I have a lightweight, collapsible, carbon fiber Manfrotto tripod and take it to the parks almost every time I go. It weighs about 3 or 4 lbs and if I'm just going for a few hours, I attach it to my camera bag and carry it with me.

If I'm staying longer, I put it in a locker until the evening.

What a difference it makes in your night pictures.

I have a monopod too but it's much heavier and I wouldn't consider using it because of its size and weight.

I found that the bag I use was important as to how comfortable the tripod was to carry around. A well fitting, light weight sling or backpack is my personal preference.

 

[mom2rtk]

For fireworks, you're going to want a shutter speed in the range of 5-10 seconds (longer if you use a ND filter). For most, a monopod will not result in a stable image for that long. Unless you just have no choice, bring a tripod.

 

[spinetnglr]

Its been quite a while since I posted here, but thought I would give my two cents on this question. Monopods and tripods serve very different purposes. A tripod would be used for situations in which you could not hand hold due to shutter speeds needed to achieve the shot you are taking. If you want to take fireworks pictures you will definitely need a tripod. I could not do without my monopod though. I use it a lot mostly when I am shooting for an extended period of time with my 70-200mm 2.8. I spent 11 hours in 95-102 degree temperatures at the Reenactment in Gettysburg and my monopod was a constant companion. If I had not had it I don't think I would have made it the whole day try to hand hold that beast. It just helps to steady the camera for borderline shutter speeds which could be the difference between a keeper and a disappointment. I have a Benro C48F carbon fiber monopod which I purchased from Amazon for about $150 when I purchased my 70-200 tele. It would not have been practical to carry a tripod around the battlefield grounds all day. The monopod was attached virtually the entire day.

Here are a few pictures I'm not sure I would have been pleased with had I not had my monopod. Although it was a bright day with hazy sun the presentations were under big crowded tents. A tripod would have been difficult to use. The mono pod was useful sitting or standing.

Lt Col Gilbert Sorrel

Gen James Longstreet

Young Union soldier listening to Longstreet

I guess what I am trying to say is both should be part of your arsenal of equipment because they serve different purposes.

 

[njtree]

i see a mono pod not really need in Disney. Tripod yes. You can spend the money and get a carbon fiber so it is even lighter. Manfratto 055 pro 4 section legs is pretty boss. You can also get a cheap one from bestbuy like a sunpak.

tripods all the same in the end.

-Dan

 

[photo_chick]

I am looking for comments and opinions regarding using a tripod vs a monopod. Is a monopod worth it?

Also, either way, I am looking for suggestions for either. I would like something and light that wouldn't be a problem to drag all over WDW and then have available at night for fireworks.

All thoughts appreciated...

---Paul in Southern NJ

It really depends on the type of shooting your doing if one would be a benefit to you more than the other. Many photographers have both. A monopod is great for when you need a little help minimizing camera shake but still want to be able to move. Sports shooting is a really good example. A tripod is for when you're going to be more stationary and want to eliminate camera shake.

For WDW fireworks a tripod would be my choice. Fireworks tend to have exposures that require zero camera shake.

 

[psimon]

I have a lightweight, collapsible, carbon fiber Manfrotto tripod and take it to the parks almost every time I go. It weighs about 3 or 4 lbs and if I'm just going for a few hours, I attach it to my camera bag and carry it with me.

If I'm staying longer, I put it in a locker until the evening.

What a difference it makes in your night pictures.

I have a monopod too but it's much heavier and I wouldn't consider using it because of its size and weight.

I found that the bag I use was important as to how comfortable the tripod was to carry around. A well fitting, light weight sling or backpack is my personal preference.

I'm fascinated that your monopod is heavier than your tripod. What's it made out of?

I have been able to take respectable fireworks handheld.... I know, not like was suggested here of 5-10 second exposures.

I was using the fireworks mode which were 2.5 seconds and they came out... just don't want to keep doing that. Can only hold my breather so long!

This is what I got at 2.5 seconds for my experimenting at the 7/4 fireworks...

---Paul in Southern NJ

 

[wbeem]

Tripods and Monopods are different critters. A monopod is primarily to help you support the weight of a large lens. You'll see them when photographers break out the big glass at a football game or some other scenario where they need to be mobile. Unless you are sporting a 400mm lens or larger, I wouldn't think a monopod would be much of a necessity at a theme park.

The tripod is a stable platform that doesn't move (unless some rugrat or distracted tourist kicks it). You can trust a tripod to make fireworks shots. On the other hand, a monopod is still going to move and sway as you use it. It's there to support weight, not provide a stable platform for long exposures.

 

[racreel]

I use a monopod at Disney to stabilize my video camera when shooting. I have never used it with my DSLR.

 

[YesDear]

Monopods can also be used with a DSLR shooting video. It adds a level of stabilization you need with video

 

[psimon]

Monopods can also be used with a DSLR shooting video. It adds a level of stabilization you need with video

I want to try doing HDR photography this cruise.... so I need to take 3 shots in the exact same spot at different exposures. Stability is a must.

---Paul in Southern NJ

 

[NateNLogansDad]

This is a little bigger, but since we use a jogging stroller in the parks, it's no big deal lugging it around.....

Tripod/Monopod

 

[Hunnypaw]

I use a small giotto tripod and ball head... they are small (18") total when its is full size, but great for fire works and setting up on trash cans, etc. With a 80-200 lens (2.8) it works great as well. very sturdy.

$150 or so for this giotto set up.

 

[wbeem]

I want to try doing HDR photography this cruise.... so I need to take 3 shots in the exact same spot at different exposures. Stability is a must.

---Paul in Southern NJ

You may find you need more than three exposures in some circumstances. I'd suggest at least five stops, more if you're shooting into the sun.

 

[psimon]

You may find you need more than three exposures in some circumstances. I'd suggest at least five stops, more if you're shooting into the sun.

I don't think it's an option.... the camera is set to take 3 shots. I'll reread the manual but I think it is fixed at 3.

---Paul in Southern NJ

 

[Experiment_626]

I don't think it's an option.... the camera is set to take 3 shots. I'll reread the manual but I think it is fixed at 3.

That's likely true -- my D300 can do nine shots, but the D7000 only does three (and my D80 was likewise limited to a trio). But there are ways around the limitation. On the D7000, I do a set of three as normal (set to shoot two stops apart). Then I dial in exposure compensation at -4EV and shoot three more shots. Finally, I change exposure compensation to +4EV and shoot three more. Now you have a range of exposures from six stops over to six stops under.

There are also some third-party remote releases that give you exceptional control, such as the Promote. I think I want one.

You may find there are certain circumstances in which even the above isn't a wide-enough range, but they'll be rare. The only time I've seen this not be enough is when I've got a shot with deep shadows, bright lights, and maybe some multi-colored vivid neon lights as well. That's the time to go full manual and go into major overkill mode. I've made HDRs using shots going from -8EV to +8EV, although I can count on one hand the number of times I've thought it was actually necessary to do so. If I'm in a place like WDW that I can't revisit at any old time, I'd rather be safe than sorry; I'll try to collect any shot I think I might possibly need.

SSB

 

[GrillMouster]

I think the original question has been answered well enough, but I wanted to add to some of the follow-up discussion.

Someone asked why a monopod would be heavier than a tripod. My answer is that the material from which the tripod or monopod is constructed can have a great impact on its weight and expense. Aluminum is a very strong and affordable material. Carbon fiber is stronger, lighter, and much more expensive. Someone who doesn't use a monopod often might not be able to justify the additional expense of a carbon fiber monopod and, instead, settle for the heavier aluminum one.

Regarding the number of exposures recommended for HDR photography. Someone already posted the workaround of using exposure compensation to achieve more exposures on a camera that limits you to three bracketed shots. I wanted to add that some cameras limit the maximum shutter speed that you can set to 30 seconds. So, if you have shots that are supposed to exceed 30 seconds when you're exposure bracketing, those shots may all be 30 seconds unless you do the following. You can set the camera to bulb mode and use a stopwatch (or count to yourself) to manually release the shutter for the longer exposures, or you could use an electronic shutter release cable/wireless trigger that include a timer/intervalometer function. I use a cheap manual cable, set shutter to bulb, and count to myself.

 

[psimon]

I think the original question has been answered well enough, but I wanted to add to some of the follow-up discussion.

Someone asked why a monopod would be heavier than a tripod. My answer is that the material from which the tripod or monopod is constructed can have a great impact on its weight and expense. Aluminum is a very strong and affordable material. Carbon fiber is stronger, lighter, and much more expensive. Someone who doesn't use a monopod often might not be able to justify the additional expense of a carbon fiber monopod and, instead, settle for the heavier aluminum one.

Regarding the number of exposures recommended for HDR photography. Someone already posted the workaround of using exposure compensation to achieve more exposures on a camera that limits you to three bracketed shots. I wanted to add that some cameras limit the maximum shutter speed that you can set to 30 seconds. So, if you have shots that are supposed to exceed 30 seconds when you're exposure bracketing, those shots may all be 30 seconds unless you do the following. You can set the camera to bulb mode and use a stopwatch (or count to yourself) to manually release the shutter for the longer exposures, or you could use an electronic shutter release cable/wireless trigger that include a timer/intervalometer function. I use a cheap manual cable, set shutter to bulb, and count to myself.

Thanks for the insight all around.

My camera is not capable of a remote shutter release (Canon SX40), hence I run the risk of nudging the camera with successive shutter releases. I could use the timer release to get successive bracketed shots, but I fear I still run the risk of misalignment between shots, even with a tripod.


---Paul in Southern NJ

 

[Experiment_626]

My camera is not capable of a remote shutter release (Canon SX40), hence I run the risk of nudging the camera with successive shutter releases. I could use the timer release to get successive bracketed shots, but I fear I still run the risk of misalignment between shots, even with a tripod.

Software can often compensate for this sort of minor movement. Photomatix can do it, and Photoshop gives you all sorts of choices to fix it. Not sure how many Photoshop Elements offers, but I'll bet it has some of them.

Minor movement between exposures is a problem that lots of HDR shooters face, so dealing with it is a fairly common feature of HDR software.

SSB