Thursday September 1
I was lazy Thursday morning. It was raining. I needed to buy some souvenirs for my nieces, so I took the hop on/hop off bus into town (not the cheapest way to get in town, but there weren't seats on the public buses and as I said, I got lazy).
In town, I found the post office, so I could buy stamps to send the nieces Greetings from Funchal. I knew I would beat the cards home by a good week or two (mail in Chicago is molasses slow), but they get a kick out of it anyway.
So after stamps, I found my way to the old government plaza and stuck my head into the old church for a look around. Every surface of the walls was covered in tiles, with saints and scenes from the bible. It is quite impressive.
After finding some dolls, some embroidery and a metal rooster for my brother, I headed back to the resort.
After a nap (did I mention I was lazy today), I got ready for my raft excursion. I booked with Wildbirds over the internet after reading reviews on TripAdvisor and after surfing their site (lots of cool videos).
The company is run by a young and very earnest husband and wife. They are experts at bird watching, particularly sea birds, and people come from all over the world for their 3 day ocean trips. That's a lot of time on a motorized rubber raft.
Me. I was sure I would capsize the boat, so I joined this adventure with some reservations. They were both so nice, and made room for me at the back of the boat (which was a lot more stable than the front) and even the life jacket fit. That just never happens (at least not without some jiggering).
the front end of the raft:
There were about 9 of us on the raft. We launched into the ocean south of the island and headed off in the direction of Isla Desertas (where there is a sea lion colony--it is off limits to tourists). Soon they spotted a whirl of seabirds. When dolphins feed, they force fish to surface by circling them; the seabirds tag along to steal fish from the air.
Not more than 15 minutes out of port, we were among a pod of 20 to 30 common dolphins.
A little backstory. Growing up, one of our family "inside jokes" were nature pictures. We had a collection of dots (this one is an eagle and that one was an owl), and rear ends of animals escaping from our cameras (the back ends of deer, moose, elk, coyotes, bison, you name it). I'm not sure we ever had any pictures of any forward facing animals.
So I get really excited when I'm able to take pictures where people can actually identify the subject without a lot of prompting and explanation. but we got close enough to the dolphins that I got pictures and one really bouncing video. Here are some photos:
Our guides had a microphone that they put into the water to record the dolphin clicks to play back to us, which was pretty cool as well. We followed the pod for a while and then headed out to deeper waters.
We found several species of birds and then sailed (motored?) around the end of the island. I suddently realized, as the boat lifted 20 feet into the sky, that the south side of the island was sheltered from the sea waves, but here just off the last of the rocks, we were in deep ocean swells. One minute you could see the island, the next, just a wall of water. I'd like to think I would float my way back to shore, but this was a wild ride.
We headed back to shore after about 3 hours on the water. I don't know how anyone does this for days on end; its like riding a bucking horse. But it was exhilerating to track and find the dolphins and seabirds, and the guides were amazing. If you ever go to Madeira, do check them out!
Next: Sands of Time