This is asking a lot, but

[barrie]

Some of you know that I just got a Nikon D50 with an 18-55 lens and a 55-200 lens. I have only ever used a point and shoot camera before now. I have read the manual and I got a couple books that I’m half way through. In the fall I am going to take some classes. I leave tomorrow for Florida and will be at Disney Sunday-Thursday. I’m going solo and plan to spend the whole time taking photos and getting familiar with my new camera.

Here’s the thing though – I’m worried that I will fall back into what is comfortable and rely too much on the automatic settings on the camera. I really want to learn to use the manual settings. I had this thought (at 4am this morning – “I’m too EXCITED to sleep!”) that if those of you in the know could just get me started with the settings you think I might be successful with in different situations, then I may not revert to bad habits so easily.

Does anyone have a little time to tell me what your starting point settings would be in these situations, including which lens? It would help me out tremendously!

• outside, bright light, still targets (buildings, plants – especially topiaries, landscapes)
• outside, bright light, moving targets (parades, shows, etc)
• outside, night shots (lights, fireworks, world showcase landscapes)
• inside, low light, distance shots, no flash (hotel lobbies, restaurants, etc)
• inside, low light, moving (ride shots with no flash, bellydancer in Morocco restaurant)
• anything I didn’t think of

I promise to pay it forward – when I know what I’m doing, I’ll help someone like me! Thanks in advance… Barrie

 

[Kelly Grannell]

guick answers for quick questions:

the brighter the general lighting, the lower the ISO you use
the slower the movement, the lower ISO you use
low light but still have lots of lights, at least ISO800 (if using no flash),
low low light, at least ISO1600 or ISO3200
fireworks and lights - see sticky how to take fireworks pics
about stuff you didn't think of: number one pointer: don't take pictures in the nude, it tends to attract unwanted attention

 

[boBQuincy]

Auto, auto, & auto.

Not that I am lazy (ok, a little) or do not know how to set exposure manually, but the camera does a very good job at it *and* the base settings can be easily modified to suit.

My Canons (and your Nikon would have a similar setup) have two wheels to modify the auto exposure: one shifts the exposure by moving the aperture and shutter speed together. The camera says f4 and you want f8? Rotate the dial and the aperture and shutter changes while the basic exposure stays the same.

Want to move up or down in exposure? Rotate the other dial and the exposure changes, in 1/2 stop increments.
By using these two dials with "auto" I can set the camera to whatever I want while still having the option of auto when I want that.

Of course I do use aperture or shutter priority for some conditions but auto works well for most scenes.
I generally set exposure about 1/2 stop under for most conditions (personal preference) but inside a ride I prefer about -1 to get the image to look most like the ride lighting. Remember, the camera's meter thinks the world is a 18% gray card, if you want the image to look brighter or darker than that you have to change the exposure.
Ansel Adams' book "The Negative" is the best I have read for explaining how this works, it all still applies to digital.

The third setting, that is unique to digitals, is ISO, allowing you to fine tune the other settings as required.


have fun, my "photo" trips have been some of my favorites,


boB

 

[ducklite]

In all honesty, for bright outdoor shots I'd just use auto. In fact I did that quite a bit when taking generic photo's of drunks and such at the festivals I was at last weekend. No shame in doing so for casual photography where you will end up with the same results regardless. If it's a bright outdoor situation with a lot of action, try the sports setting.

Where you want to use a different setting will be inside and during darker conditions.

Your D-50 should allow to to set to "A" (Aperture Priority setting) and then on your menu, you can choose "Auto ISO." In all honesty the camera does a pretty good job determining what to use. You can also adjust the type of lighting from the menu.

Knowing the focal distance of the lens is actually less important than the lowest available f-stop when shooting in darker conditions. The lower the f-stop the larger the opening, and the less light you need.

Anne

 

[geetey]

about stuff you didn't think of: number one pointer: don't take pictures in the nude, it tends to attract unwanted attention

 

[WillCAD]

Well, I'm not a pro like some of these guys, but I can tell you the settings I use for these situations and maybe that will help you a little.

The camera is smarter than I am about exposure. Sure, it's not a genius, but then neither am I, so I let the camera determine exposure most of the time.

*outside, bright light, still targets (buildings, plants – especially topiaries, landscapes)

Program AE mode, ISO400

*outside, bright light, moving targets (parades, shows, etc)

Program AE mode, ISO400

*outside, night shots (lights, fireworks, world showcase landscapes)

For still subjects, Program AE mode, ISO400, tabletop tripod because exposures will be 1-3 seconds. Use the built-in timer to eliminate minor shaking from puching the button.

For fireworks, Shutter Speed Priority, 1/15sec, manual focus locked on the castle, ISO1600, hand-held

*inside, low light, distance shots, no flash (hotel lobbies, restaurants, etc)

For flash pics ij hotel lobbies and restaurants I use a Speedlight hot shoe flash to light the room up - flash in most of those situations is not prohibited and not terribly rude unless you're popping it off a lot or popping it right in someone's face

For areas too big for the flash to light, I have used Program AE mode with a tabletop tripod; exposures usually go from 1-2 seconds, and use the timer.

Since I got my 300D, I have also had great luck at hand held shots with Program AE on ISO1600.

*inside, low light, moving (ride shots with no flash, bellydancer in Morocco restaurant)

Toughes shots to get - if Program AE mode won't do it, I use Aperture Priority on 1/30sec at ISO1600 and hope for the best. It also helps to pan the camera a little to compensate for your movement, sort of the opposite of panning to compensate for a moving subject.

 

[barrie]

Wow - Great advice everyone. That's just what I needed. I'm going to print this out and take it with me. And Kelly - I'll be sure to try and remember that last bit! Barrie

 

[tinksdad]

guick answers for quick questions:

the brighter the general lighting, the lower the ISO you use
the slower the movement, the lower ISO you use
low light but still have lots of lights, at least ISO800 (if using no flash),
low low light, at least ISO1600 or ISO3200
fireworks and lights - see sticky how to take fireworks pics
about stuff you didn't think of: number one pointer: don't take pictures in the nude, it tends to attract unwanted attention

Is there something you'd like to share???

 

[Kelly Grannell]

it gives a completely new meaning to "flash photography"

 

[jockey]

it gives a completely new meaning to "flash photography"

 

[tinksdad]

it gives a completely new meaning to "flash photography"

Nice!!!

Over exposed again..........

 

[Kelly Grannell]

Nice!!!

Over exposed again..........

yes, too much "Photoblocker"

 

[phinz]

Another little rule of thumb I like to use is: Try not to set your shutter any slower than your focal length when handholding. So if you're zooming to 200 using your long lens, make sure the shutter setting is 1/200 or faster. It doesn't always work that way, and if you have really steady hands or are really good at panning then you can slow the shutter down a little, but when I forget to use this rule I get some pretty terrible pictures when I'm shooting action.

Of course, that rule goes out the window if you're using a tripod or any other stable support.

 

[tigger795]

Hi barrie,

I too am from Portland, or at least near it anyway. We will be there at the same time. We are arriving this Saturday and leaving the following Saturday and staying at VWL and the Contemporary(first time for both resorts!). I am looking forward to putting my new 30D to the test!

I am with the others in using the Auto mode. I would tend to leave it there until you begin to get shots you are not happy with. Then adjust exposure settings as necessary. This is probably the surest way to avoid frustration and disappointment while learning your new camera. Be sure to reset your camera to Auto if you do though. More than once I have lost some beautiful photo opportunities due to forgetting to reset my camera.

Hope to see you there!!

Randy

 

[geetey]

I know I am suffering from system overload (trip planning and learning this camera) but I thought I read somewhere (possibly the Understanding Exposure book??) that shooting in P mode is the 'best' (referring to the Rebel XT settings). It is close to Auto.

Would this be wrong?

 

[barrie]

Hey Randy - Not that many of us west-coasters on here. Nice to meeet you. I live in NE Portland. I'm planning on spending the day on Thursday next week wandering around the resorts in the Magic Kingdom area. I've never seen the Poly. Thought I might take in a swim at GF, maybe even a massage, take a spin in a water sprite, maybe go for a bike ride through the campgrounds, afternoon tea, fireworks on the water - all that. If you see some middle aged, somewhat gray-haired woman struggling with a camera she seems to know nothing about - that would be me! Say hello! And have a great time. Barrie

 

[Kelly Grannell]

I know I am suffering from system overload (trip planning and learning this camera) but I thought I read somewhere (possibly the Understanding Exposure book??) that shooting in P mode is the 'best' (referring to the Rebel XT settings). It is close to Auto.

Would this be wrong?

You are correct. This is the closest thing to Auto AND you can choose ISO setting and AF point.

 

[boBQuincy]

When I mention "Auto" I really mean "P" mode on a Canon. Besides manual ISO selection P also allows manual flash selection, and RAW.

In the olden days before exposure meters the 'rule' for a bright sunny day was f16 and shutter speed as the reciprocal of ISO. Use your histogram to verify the exposure, even when in Auto, P, or anything.


boB