We were there this last March and had great time. We hiked the South Kibab trail half way into the Canyon. (1 1/2 miles each way!) I didn't think I was going to make it back out. I had $50 in my pocket and the mule train came past us twice on the way up. It took everything I had not to flash the money at them and beg them to bring me back up! LOL In hind site, it wasn't that bad, though. I would do it again, just get an ealier start. (we were racing the clock so to speak) Earlier this year, they had some running team training there. They made it to the bottom of the Canyon and back up in 20 minutes! One of the guys that did the race was staying in shape by running the Canyon when we were there. He made it to the half way point and back up in 30 minutes! DH wasn't going to let the guy beat him back up to the top, so DH started running just ahead of him. (snow and ice covered trails! I was terrified he was going to go over the edge) Is that what they mean by "testosterone"? LOL
Anyway, about the lodges. There are quite a few places to stay inside of the park on the south rim. We stayed at Maswik Lodge. It wasn't anything special, but better than than the pics I had seen of the place. I was kind of suprised that the room was sooo big! It is right next to the train depot, but we didn't hear any trains while we were there. (we were out of the room most of the time) In the main building, is the check in, gift shop and cafateria. The food was pretty good, too. DH saw an Elk one night when he walked over to the main building. Parking is right infront of your door. The buildings are two story w/ no elevators. EL Tovar is the ritzy resort, but the only thing I know about it is that it is really expensive and hard to book. But, you can get Canyon view rooms there and at a couple of other lodges.They also keep the mules right across the street.
It really reminded me of Disney. I know that is weird, but it did. They have an internal bus system that is encouraged. You can not get to the visitors center by car unless you are handicapped, then you can drive. Since everyone that works there lives there, they have a full grocery store, deli, and gift shop that you CAN drive to. It is right next to one of the lodges, but I do not remember which one. At the visitors center the kids can become Junior rangers. A Hopi indian ranger swore our DS12 in as a ranger. If you are going when there will be snow on the ground, get boots or buy the spikes. They were $8 - 10 a pair for the spikes when we were there. DH hiked in his tennies and the spikes and didn't have any problems on the ice and snow.
I did a lot of reading and posting on the AOL Grand Canyon boards to find out info before we went. There are a couple of people on the board who can answer ANY question you have. They are GREAT! You can also check availability of the lodges and get an idea about the place by going to :
http://www.xanterra.com/properties/grandcanyonnationalparkslodges.htm
Be aware that you are out in the wilds even though there are people and buildings all around. The first thing we saw when we got into the park was a coyote in the middle of one of the main intersections. We saw a heard of mule deer and I swear I heard a cougar, but we didn't stick around to see if it was my imagination or not. HTH