Hello newcomers! Welcome to my universe! On with the report...it is Grand Cayman Day and Palo!
December 18
This was the day that, oddly enough, we were all looking forward to the most. Now, I know that had we been home, my first thought upon awakening would have been, A year ago today, Derrick died. And I would have stayed in bed, ticking off the hours and thinking, A year ago, right now, Derrick still was alive. Until he wasn't.
On the cruise, however, it took me a few moments to get there. I woke up, immediately excited that it was Grand Cayman day! That means Captain Marvin and snorkeling and sting rays! Aw heck
if its Grand Cayman day, its December 18th, and Derrick died a year ago today. I quickly pushed those thoughts out of my head, and got up to see what time it was and if we were there yet!
We werent quite, and I watched much of our approach from the verandah. For some reason, a group of crew members had taken one of the lifeboats out. We saw them do this at most of the ports, and figure that must be part of ongoing safety drills.
Now, I had remembered reading a trip report in which the writer had booked an excursion independently and had trouble getting out on the early tenders and ended up late for his excursion. I was very worried that we would have this trouble, so the day before, I went to Guest Services to ask about this process. The woman I spoke with seemed to think that we would have no trouble at all, and actually seemed puzzled that I asked.
We were up by 6:45, and got breakfast at Topsiders. The Captain made announcements about the water being a bit rough, some excursions had been cancelled I think, and that because we couldnt use the larger tender boats, that there may be some delays with getting off the ship.
Ed and I quickly decided to get right to Buena Vista Theater so we could get off the ship even though we werent to be at Captain Marvins until just after 9:00. We got to the theater at 8:00, and were called to board our tender at 8:10. It was totally painless and we had no trouble at all.
We very quickly found Captain Marvins place, and we were very early, but got all checked in with them and then went to look around a bit. We wandered into a shop that had hand carved wooden stuff and black coral jewelry. Ed is an amateur carver and really wanted one piece in particular with a sting ray and a dolphin. Id have liked a pair of earrings. We thought it was silly to buy these things and try to tote them around all day, so we decided to come back after our excursion. Bad decision.
By the time we were finished, we were wet, thirsty and tired and buying the stuff didnt seem nearly as urgent as it had seemed earlier. This would be a great money saving tip, except that after wed left Grand Cayman we found that we really wanted those things and now it was too late.
Finally, it was time to board the buses that would get us to the boat (we experienced quite a few modes of transportation this day). We waited a little bit for stragglers, but it wasnt bad. We drove a little ways to what must have been one of the crew members house.
It was right next to a decent sized inlet with a dock. We waited there awhile for other people to arrive. Someone noticed that the bathroom on board the boat wasnt working well. This was bad news for me as Id hoped to use it before we left. I asked a crew member about it and he directed me to a bathroom inside the house.
The bathroom was occupied, so I stood in the bedroom, absolutely itching to take a look around the rest of the house. I was polite and didnt, but I was curious. Who ever lived there was living very modestly indeed.
Soon it was time to leave. We were with a large extended family group, and were introduced to Sam our videographer. She seemed very young (early 20s maybe), and Ed and I wondered what her story was. Was this a full time job for her or did she go to school? We didnt really have a chance to talk with her. She was adamant that if she pointed her camera at us she expected some action by God! So wave or something!
That makes me wonder if shes got an entire video of all of us fools under water waving at her and scaring the fish away.

I dont know as we havent received the video yet, but we saw a preview while we were driving back and we didnt seem to look like idiots.
(added note: Ive now seen the DVD, and yeah, there are quite a few shots of us waving fools, but it is still really cool and Im glad we have it.)
It was very overcast, and the seas were fairly rough. We were told that we were lucky, that last week had been very bad. Having heard about Tropical Depression Olga, Im sure they werent exaggerating. We were on the boat about 30 minutes before we stopped for the first of two snorkel stops, then the sting rays were to be last. About 20 minutes into our boat ride, the sun came out and the clouds disappeared.
They had issued us all a life vest, a mask, a snorkel and flippers. When the boat stopped, we were all very eager to get out there. Now, its very hard to explain the next part, as I dont quite understand myself what happened.
I was very calm prior to my entry into the water. In my defense, I must explain that I havent swum in the ocean in a very long time, and the only snorkeling Ive done was in my backyard pool. The real thing is somewhat different! As I said, I was quite happy to get into the water.
I wasnt using flippers as they felt very strange on my feet. Once I got into the water, I found that my mask wasnt on quite right and I was getting water in it. As I treaded water, trying to readjust my mask, water was splashing into my face, getting into my mouth and I was having a really hard time breathing.
The next thing I know, Ed is tugging on me and pointing at the boat. I had gotten carried out too far without realizing it. My heart was pounding, I couldnt breathe and Ed had to drag me back to the boat. Ed had been with Dustin and then noticed my trouble, settling Dustin right next to the rope (they throw a rope with a lifesaver on the end out into the water, and that makes it very easy to pull yourself in if youre having trouble) and went out to rescue me.
We both got back onto the boat, I assured Ed that I would be perfectly fine in a minute, and sent him to go watch over Dustin.
I sat on the boat for a few minutes, catching my breath and trying relax myself. I was determined to get back out there. I did get back into the water (staying very close to the rope. Hmm, clinging might be a better description) and did just fine.
Unfortunately, I had wasted a lot of time, and that was our best snorkel stop, having a sting ray, a starfish and many other fish. After a couple of minutes, it was time to get back onto the boat and head to the next stop.
They mentioned the name of the next stop was The Aquarium. We all got off the boat, I stayed very close to the rope and looked around. It was still a pretty neat experience, but the first stop had much more to see. I was proud of myself for conquering the snorkel experience, but a little apprehensive about what was to come next. Sting Ray City.
(added note: both stops had tons of fish, as I see now from the DVD. I just missed them.

)
Ed has friends who had done an excursion similar to this last summer. One of the men told Ed how theyd scared one of the women by rubbing the squid on her butt so that she was besieged by sting rays. I didnt find the story at all funny, being rather unsure of how Id like the experience. The whole sting ray thing was Eds idea to begin with, I was just playing along.
We headed off for the sandbar and Ed and Dustin decided to go to the upper level of the boat so that they could see better. I stayed below to guard our meager belongings. We arrived at the sand bar and could see a number of other boats and groups of people there. Given my vantage point, I barely noticed the dark shapes in the water, but Ed and Dustin had a great view!
We were given instructions not to swim, kick our feet or flail our arms around, and told we needed to kind of shuffle walk without raising our feet much. Ok. In order to anchor the boat, they had to leave it in somewhat deeper water. So Dustin and I, at least, had to get off the boat and then swim a bit until it got shallower. This didnt much thrill me and I had visions of being impaled as I swam.
Oh yeah, before leaving the boat, they gave us dead squid to feed the sting rays with. Ordinarily I am the squeamish sort and wouldnt touch a dead squid on a bet. However, on this day and time, that dead squid was the least of my concerns, so I took it, but avoided looking at it or thinking about it very much.
Dustin and I got to the sandbar, where we could stand, somehow losing Ed along the way. Our group was supposed to meet up and form a circle, I think, but that was kinda hard to do. So, we stood around and being aware of all the people nearby, I started to get annoyed when I kept getting bumped from behind.
I turned around to see who was bothering me, and saw that it wasnt a person at all, but a sting ray.

They were absolutely everywhere and have no manners at all! They will swim right between people, between your legs if you leave any room at all, and right up to your chest! Dustin and I were totally unnerved by the whole thing and too afraid to move much.
After a few moments, Dustin decided the whole thing was way too freaky for him and that he was going back to the boat. Luckily, he must have run into Ed on his way back. At Eds side, being that Ed was much calmer and steady in the water than Dustins ninny of a mother, Dustin was able to relax and even pet the sting rays.
I had all the intentions in the world of actually feeding a sting ray, but the ray came over my hand and I utterly freaked out, dropping the squid! I even went and got another squid, preparing myself to be really big girl about the whole thing! I wasnt any braver the second time.
I did touch the top of one (kind of rough feeling) and the underside of them, I felt as they brushed my legs, was very very soft. Ed, on the other hand, not only fed them, but held them and even kissed one! Kissing a sting ray is supposed to bring 7 years of good luck, the opposite of breaking a mirror, I suppose. I guess Ill just stick close to Ed for the next 7 years.
Our group did eventually make a circle and they got a whole talk about the rays and Sam was there taping a bunch of it. Yeah, I missed all of that. No matter, I was quite happy in the spot I found, thank you very much!
One funny thing happened. A guy next to me was holding his squid way up high in the air. I guess he was afraid a ray would grab it unexpectedly. He shouldnt have worried so much about the rays, but a seagull flew by and snatched it right out of his hand. That poor guy gave a yell!
I know I havent made this trip sound very appealing, but truly it was the coolest thing we have ever done! It was totally freaky, very weird, and utterly fantastic. All of us would jump at the chance to do it again!
What is almost as much fun as the excursion itself is telling the people back home what you did! They completely wig out!

Ok, so you were in a tank, right? Nope, right there in the ocean! But the sting rays were tagged and tame or something, right? Nope, totally wild. Invariably, at this point they ask, Isnt that how Steve Irwin died?? Then they give you this Ohmigod! look, when you act like its no big deal. Its great!
A cousin seems sure that I contrived some diabolical plot to off the entire rest of the family on the anniversary of Derricks death! Yeah, shes a bit of a drama queen.
Our time with the sting rays done, we clambered back onto the boat for the trip home (they did give us a squirt with a hose to rinse the salt water off, which I thought was a nice touch). Dustin immediately fell asleep, and I watched the video preview that Sam had set up.
The boat did have a bathroom, and they provided some water and fruit punch, but there was no food available. Many people brought snacks, but I hadnt thought that far ahead. Captain Marvins crew was perfectly nice and professional. We had an excellent time.
We got back to the house, they bussed us back to the port and we reboarded the ship. It was about 2:00pm when we got to the tender. Captain Marvin did have a shorter excursion available, and a couple at later times. I think I would stick with the very earliest excursion as the last tender was scheduled for 4:30.
We returned to our stateroom, showered, got some lunch (probably at Plutos) and then went back and had a nap. Life was good.
We had 7:00 dinner reservations at Palo so we needed to figure out what Dustin was going to eat (the Lab probably had dinner scheduled around 5:00, and he wasnt interested). Dustin thought a room service dinner sounded good (likely a turkey sandwich), so we ordered room service for him, got ourselves ready and then dropped him at the Lab with orders NOT to page us. We assured him that we would come and find him when we were finished.
We went to Palo and our server was Toni (male) from Spain. I thought he had a little bit of that fancy restaurant/snooty waiter thing going on, but that might be my insecurity speaking.
He asked if we wanted wine and I explained that Im not much of a wine drinker, dont really care for a lot of it. Well, Toni was sure he knew a wine that I would enjoy! I thought, Knock yourself out Sparky! and remained skeptical. I was most surprised that he did bring us a wine that we both enjoyed! It was a Trentino Moscato Giallo. Quite good! We decided to get the bottle.
Ed and I looked at the menu and although I did a lot of reading about peoples experiences at Palo, I wasnt quite sure how the whole menu thing worked. I mean, people talked about their servers just bringing them all kinds of dishes. Were these courses or what? So, Toni asked if we understood the menu and though it seemed a silly thing to say, No, I dont understand the menu we confessed our ignorance and threw ourselves on his mercy.
He quickly went through the menu, pointing out appetizers, soups, salads and so on. He offered his suggestions for appetizers, one of which was the grilled portabella mushroom. I chose that.
Ed wanted the tuna carpaccio. At this, Toni peered at Ed suspiciously. Sir, do you know what carpaccio is? he asked. Ed, rather a more adventurous eater than myself, explained that yes, he did know what carpaccio was. Toni went on to explain that the only reason that he did not recommend the carpaccio was that many people do not realize it is raw and become most unhappy when it is served to them!
At Eds explanation, Toni grew visibly warmer. He became almost chatty, explaining that the carpaccio is exactly what he has for lunch every day, and he will prepare it for Ed the way he eats it himself! I must admit, I became slightly jealous of Tonis obvious approval of my husband and his appetizer choice. I started to yearn for a little of that approval myself.
Toni brought the appetizers, including a pesto shrimp that was amazing, and performed some very mysterious ritual over Eds carpaccio. My grilled mushroom was excellent. Ed pronounced the carpaccio very good, but thought that Tonis additions to it masked the taste just a bit. I tried some of the tuna (up to this point, Id only had seared tuna) and thought it was pretty good.
We also had the bread, several dips, and the antipasto which were all fine. I found the prosciutto and bresaola to be a bit too strong in flavor for my taste.
It was at this time that I began to wonder just a bit about the price of the wine we were so enjoying. Ed doesnt often worry about the price of things and certainly not while in the middle of such an experience as this. I voiced my concerns and Ed looked at me with the little smile on his face which means You cannot resist worrying, can you? I frequently cant, to be honest. With a laugh in his voice, Ed asked, And if the wine costs $300, there isnt much we can do about that, can we? As I am not typically one to cause a fuss, he was exactly right. I resolved to put the issue out of my mind. It didnt quite work, but I made the attempt.
Toni returned to ask our entrée choices. He made his recommendations, one was the filet, which I chose. Toni looked at me and asked how I wanted it cooked. I asked for it medium rare, and was gratified to see the glint of approval in his eyes.
Ed chose the lamb. Apparently, the carpaccio incident hadnt quite convinced our friend Toni that Ed is familiar with food. He inquired, Sir, have you have lamb before? Ed assured him that yes, he quite likes lamb. Toni once again explained that the only reason he does not recommend the lamb is because many people are not prepared for its somewhat gamey taste. But he consented to bring Ed the lamb after assuring himself that Ed was not ordering in ignorance.
We were amused, but not quite sure what to think of Toni. Was he an excellent server, taking great pains to be sure that his guests would be satisfied with their choices? Or does he think us rubes, unfamiliar with good food, thus feeling the need to second guess our choices? We deliberately chose to believe the former while reserving the latter as a distinct possibility. In any case, we enjoyed the food and Toni quite a lot.
Our entrees arrived, along with a risotto dish that Ed had expressed interest in, and the lobster ravioli. All were excellent. We were also treated to pizza, half cheese and half prosciutto. While most of the world would find it utterly preposterous that a cheese pizza could inspire such joy in a person, those who have experienced Palo will know what I mean.
Id never had fresh mozzarella cheese before. I took one bite and nearly melted!

Ed was quite engrossed in his lamb and had paid no attention to the pizza quietly sitting on the table. Neither had Ed read page upon page of near obscene expressions of delight with this particular food choice. I confess, I had been skeptical myself. After all, its just a cheese pizza, right?
I took a bite of this creamy, gooey goodness and made an odd noise. It was more than Mmmmmm. My eyes got wide and I said, Oh Ed, you HAVE to try this! He gave me a look which clearly said, Abandon my rack of tasty lamb for PIZZA? Are you nuts? He studied the look on my face for a moment, and must have realized he was seeing a look never before seen unconnected to a chocolate dessert. He tried the pizza and grinned. Yes, that is very good! he agreed.
Now part of my goal upon entering Palo was to not eat so much that I felt sick and miserable the rest of the evening. Consequently, I was eating just a few bites of this and a few bites of that. Toni looked concerned when he returned and found that Id eaten only half of my filet. It was really good, but I was nearing the point of full and we still had dessert to come.
I was really, really looking forward to dessert! Ed, not as much as a chocolate lover as myself, had been infected by my desire for the chocolate soufflé. I was surprised when he ordered it frankly. He is usually more adventurous than that.
Hed seen the sugar, half circle thing which comes with the panna cotta and had been curious about that, but didnt know what it was. Luckily for us, dear Toni brought not only 2 chocolate soufflés, but a serving of panna cotta as well! I explained to Ed that tons of people raved over that dish. Not being a fan of custard or fruit with tiny seeds, Id avoided it like the plague.
I quite enjoyed the chocolate, Ed thought it good, but he really thought the panna cotta was outstanding. So much so that he was sure I needed to try it. I reminded him of my dislike for eggy things and he waved that concern away. He acknowledged my intense hatred of tiny seeds by saying that I neednt try the fruit. Actually, the custard wasnt bad at all. If youre a person who likes custard at all, you will love this.
Our meal over, we were completely and utterly satisfied.

The whole experience had been just wonderful. Then came the check. I cringed, still somewhat worried about the wine. (Ok, fess up, how many of you checked the Palo menu to find the price of the wine?) Ed smiled at me and said the wine was only $30. We tipped our friend Toni a nice amount, and still felt wed gotten quite a bargain. And Dustin really hadnt paged us!

Very cool! We wandered outside to enjoy the rather strong wind, took about 3 steps and the pager went off. Of course!
The kids were playing dodgeball on the Sports Deck so we arrived quickly. The CM in charge of checking children in and out looked apologetic and asked if wed finished our dinner. Shed known we were at Palo and was concerned shed interrupted us, but shed already delayed Dustin once. We assured her that the timing had been perfect and chatted with her a moment about Palo.
I had assumed that CMs, if they had the right hours off and the restaurant wasnt full, could go to Palo. That is definitely not the case! Only if they are being recognized, or on rare special occasions are they allowed to go. This CM had only been once. I immediately felt a little bad for mentioning to all and sundry CMs Id encountered where we were going.
Not only am I on vacation, which you are not (not to speak of the fact that my job is surely less demanding than theirs), I am on my way to a fabulous restaurant you cannot attend even though it is right under your nose every day! And people keep telling you how fabulous it is! Eeek! So, speak up if CMs provide excellent service, you might help them earn a dinner at Palo!
Im sure we all wandered awhile and then went to bed. Towel animal: an elephant, I think.
I did find a quiet time that evening to ask Dustin if he knew what day it was. He didnt. I told him that it was December 18. He looked at me blankly. I reminded him that Derrick had died on December 18. It was exactly one year ago.
Dustin looked deep in thought, nodded a little and said nothing. I had a few private tears on the verandah that night, but was so grateful for the day that wed had! I have one December 18 filled with the most awful memories, and one filled with all the cool stuff that we did. It makes the date seem better somehow. Id discovered that December 18 doesnt have to be the worst day of the year. It will be whatever I make of it.
In some future year, when it isnt so much like poking sticks into an open wound, I might have the ability to sit quietly with myself on that day. But this year, I just couldnt face it. And thats ok. I have plenty of time.