The ABCs of Greece & Italy! X, Y, and Z, and that Friends is THE END!!! :) See you in Asia and Australia, Join Me THERE!!

[Steppesister]

Well done. I am sure that you could have done without all the drama but onward and upward.

It wasn't a "barely" passed it, but it was much less "robust" of a pass than the others and with more stress it felt like on this one compared to the others. I kept running into discrepancies with the sources (from text to text) so that was super frustrating. Clinical guidelines just keep changing and it's almost faster than practitioners can keep up with.

 

[pkondz]

Alright Friends, I have a few weeks "off" until my next term begins. I'm pleased to report that I....

PASSED MY EXAM!!!!
​

Congrats!

After a bit of researching I realized, to my horror, I had accidently scheduled this proctored exam for the day before thinking Labor Day was the 3rd----- it was the 4th.

D'oh!

We joked that Plan C was to PREPARE with a margarita.

Of course! Nothing says getting ready for an exam like a margarita.

one of those goals is to work on making progress on this TR on my 3 days off a week!!

Yuss...

planning my Philippines, Bali, Australia, Tasmania trip too.

Whoa! What a trip!

I have edited my photos for our bus trip to Naples from Puglia, and hope to get that chapter done tomorrow.

 

[Steppesister]

Congrats!

D'oh!

Of course! Nothing says getting ready for an exam like a margarita.

Yuss...

Whoa! What a trip!

Thanks PK!! It's certainly a load off my plate; I really need a break from intense studying like that!

 

[Steppesister]

C is for: Carriage Across the Italian Countryside​

Anara and I were up very early and had an incredible breakfast of Lemon Cake, our fresh burrata cheese that we’d helped make, some cookies and jams, juice, coffee- all so delicious! Rita even had her helper, Victoria, pack us up a little snack bag of goodies for the road. Such a sweet hostess who thought of everything.

​

Now, I realized that forgot to fill you in on who Shannon was that I’d mentioned before. She was another guest at the agriturismo who had been spending some time in Italy with friends who were local or who were there for an extended time trying to do a startup business of getting folks set up with solar power through microloans or something like that. I didn’t catch it all but for a 30-year old traveling the world with an entrepreneurial mindset and actually putting feet to it was quite something. However, there was a small bit of drama that unfolded. On our 2nd day, Anara and I were in our room resting and when I’d come back to the dining room to meet Rita for our little excursion to the fish docks, Shannon was in there doing some yoga. I noticed that Rita’s bedroom door was open and didn’t think much of it. I assumed that one of the cats had pushed it open coming or going.

Later, Rita seemed “off”. I asked if something was bothering her, and she got very upset and basically accused Shannon of “going in her room” which was right off of the dining room where Shannon was. I didn’t really believe that, and still think that either it was inadvertently left open or got pushed open by a cat or something. I truly don’t think Shannon would have opened the door. But it made for some quite uncomfortable and awkward interaction from that point on. Shannon noticed that Rita was upset too and asked me what it was and I basically told her what Rita had said and told her that she really ought to try to set the record straight since she was staying on a couple more days after us.

Despite that bit of awkwardness, Anara and I were still thrilled with our stay and all that we had experienced in Puglia. It’s a wonderful area to visit away from much of the tourism and crowds that Italy can get in the big cities.

But today was the day we’d leave the Eastern seaside behind and head to the Western coast city of Naples. We’d arranged a couple of days before with Rita to stop by a Tobaccaria -basically a 7-11 where you can pay your bills, buy bus tickets, lottery tickets, snacks, and of course, tobacco products.

After breakfast, Rita drove us to the Bari bus station where we boarded this coach:

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It was an enormous bus and quite full but with comfortable seats and plenty of room. The big windows afforded us a spectacular view of the Italian countryside as we traversed the width of Italy to the opposite coast. The trip was a lovely 3 hours and we each passed the time by watching the scenery go by. The first half hour gave us some more views of trulli homes, sadly laying abandoned in fields and likely turned into farmer's sheds.

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Field after field came into view, most of which had been freshly mown as Summer had turned into Fall. The blush of Autumn was just starting to turn the hilly landscape into a patchwork of earth-toned colors while the grapes and gardens hiccupped their last fruits of the growing season. I apologize for the blurry, window-highlighted photos; it's not easy from a moving bus!

​

Remnants of once proud villas dotted the landscape and vestiges of historical architecture crossed streams along the way; the very old mixed among the company of the very new was an oddity I wasn’t really sure how to reconcile.

​

As we motored on and got closer to Naples, the gentle, rolling hills turned to more rugged, tree-covered mountains, some resembling ancient cone-shaped volcanoes. A few sported magnificent, white-washed villages on top that resembled spoonfuls of liquid fondant poured on little cakes.

The mountainous areas:

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The time passed quickly and soon enough we found ourselves being dropped off at a busy bus stop with no idea really how to get where we were needing to go.

Which was here:

​

Even finding the closest taxi stand was quite a walk with our heavy, unwieldy suitcases. It took a visit into a little store to ask and after a bit of frustration we found ourselves a taxi and were on our way here:

​

It wasn’t a fancy place by any stretch. Right in the center of the touristy area of the San Gregorio Armeno neighborhood where the famous Neapolitan "precepi" are made. Oddly, I had no idea this was even a thing when I’d arrived!! Silly me having this glaring lack of pre-trip research done!! OY!! Here’s what I should have known:

“In the 13th century in a cave in the small town of Greccio, St. Francis built a manger scene and celebrated Mass. Since then, the tradition spread throughout all of Italy, but the Neapolitans believe that they do it best. Throughout the city of Naples, hundreds are presepi are displayed at Christmastime.”

It's not just Christmastime. The craftsfolk make them all year long and there are about 4 square blocks of stalls selling them. (More later...)

The AirBnb was on a little side alley that was incredibly noisy, we’d find out, which made for getting a good night’s sleep really hard, but that’s later…. Suffice to say, this alley was packed with tourists and precepi-selling stalls until well after dark.

We dumped our bags off after we had a little moment of panic with the taxi driver. I handed him my debit card and he said, “Cash only please.” That was going to be a challenge since I wasn’t even sure I had enough! Yikes!! I dug around and found a US Fiver and some other Italian change and told him that was all I had. It wasn’t quite enough, but maybe he should get his card machine fixed since he displays the visa emblem on his car? Otherwise, he can drive me to a bank and wait. #sorrynotsorry

Finally, it was time to go out in search of the renowned Neapolitan pizza!! Let’s go!!!

It didn’t take long to find some that looked AMAZING!! Clay-oven fired, of course!

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Vesi Pizza isn’t the oldest pizzeria in town; that distinction goes to Antica Pizzeria Port’Alba founded in 1738. Vesi was opened in 1921 which makes it plenty “well-established” in its own right. The more important question is: “Was it delicious?”​

​

Yes, as matter of fact, it was. We ordered one with ham and fresh burrata/mozz which gussied up the traditional margarita. My mouth was watering as we watched the cook craft up his wares. ​

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We had told the server we were going to split so it came out perfectly portioned for the two of us. And it was HUGE!! Even splitting, we couldn’t finish it between the two of us. More stuffed than a calzone, we paid our bill and headed out to do some exploring.​

 

[pkondz]

Anara and I were up very early and had an incredible breakfast of Lemon Cake, our fresh burrata cheese that we’d helped make, some cookies and jams, juice, coffee- all so delicious!

Whoa....

Then again... no pictures. Gonna guess you really had a bowl of Corn Flakes

Now, I realized that forgot to fill you in on who Shannon was that I’d mentioned before.

Was wondering...

She was another guest at the agriturismo who had been spending some time in Italy with friends who were local or who were there for an extended time trying to do a startup business of getting folks set up with solar power through microloans or something like that. I didn’t catch it all but for a 30-year old traveling the world with an entrepreneurial mindset and actually putting feet to it was quite something.

Pretty impressive.

Later, Rita seemed “off”. I asked if something was bothering her, and she got very upset and basically accused Shannon of “going in her room”

Uh, oh...
It's also possible that she did go into her room. You never know.

Shannon noticed that Rita was upset too and asked me what it was and I basically told her what Rita had said and told her that she really ought to try to set the record straight since she was staying on a couple more days after us.

Did she?

We’d arranged a couple of days before with Rita to stop by a Tobaccaria -basically a 7-11 where you can pay your bills, buy bus tickets, lottery tickets, snacks, and of course, tobacco products.

I wonder if the tobacco usage has declined in Italy as it has other places?

The big windows afforded us a spectacular view of the Italian countryside as we traversed the width of Italy to the opposite coast.

Not a bad way to travel.

The first half hour gave us some more views of trulli homes, sadly laying abandoned in fields and likely turned into farmer's sheds.

Ah yes. The passage of time and the advancement of progress...

the very old mixed among the company of the very new was an oddity I wasn’t really sure how to reconcile.

Especially in the Old World.

I'm no expert, but I wouldn't be surprised if that bridge/aqueduct dates back to Roman times. Sure looks like it.

A few sported magnificent, white-washed villages on top that resembled spoonfuls of liquid fondant poured on little cakes.

Nicely said... And agreed!

Definitely see that in this photo.

I think you might be traveling in circles. 3 hour ride you say?
"Yes, but if you drove yourself, it was only 15 minutes. Odd."

and were on our way here:

Looks very cozy.

the famous Neapolitan "precepi" are made. Oddly, I had no idea this was even a thing when I’d arrived!!

Never heard of Neapolitan precepi, although of course I've heard of Nativity scenes.

Suffice to say, this alley was packed with tourists and precepi-selling stalls until well after dark.

We dumped our bags off after we had a little moment of panic with the taxi driver. I handed him my debit card and he said, “Cash only please.” That was going to be a challenge since I wasn’t even sure I had enough! Yikes!! I dug around and found a US Fiver and some other Italian change and told him that was all I had. It wasn’t quite enough, but maybe he should get his card machine fixed since he displays the visa emblem on his car? Otherwise, he can drive me to a bank and wait. #sorrynotsorry

Yeah... who carries cash these days? I think he was taking advantage of a tourist so he could pocket the money.

Finally, it was time to go out in search of the renowned Neapolitan pizza!! Let’s go!!!

Now this I've heard of!

We ordered one with ham and fresh burrata/mozz which gussied up the traditional margarita.

mmmmm...

And it was HUGE!! Even splitting, we couldn’t finish it between the two of us.

More stuffed than a calzone,

Nice.

 

[Wood Nymph]

It's too bad your Puglio visit ended a little awkwardly. It was such a lovely place otherwise.

The pizza looks delicious.

 

[Steppesister]

Whoa....

Then again... no pictures. Gonna guess you really had a bowl of Corn Flakes

Fixed! That photo populated into Smugmug in a random place (not with the last batch uploaded) and forgot it.

Pretty impressive.

I sure thought so!

Uh, oh...
It's also possible that she did go into her room. You never know.

It is possible. Unlikely, but possible.

Did she?

Another thing I'll never know. We left before Shannon was up and we didn't get her contact information.

I wonder if the tobacco usage has declined in Italy as it has other places?

Good question! It sure hasn't in Kentucky.

I'm no expert, but I wouldn't be surprised if that bridge/aqueduct dates back to Roman times. Sure looks like it.

It super did and that's why it caught my attention. Pretty dang cool! Wish I could have gone exploring and gotten to it.

I think you might be traveling in circles. 3 hour ride you say?
"Yes, but if you drove yourself, it was only 15 minutes. Odd."

Fixed!

Never heard of Neapolitan precepi, although of course I've heard of Nativity scenes.

I at least thought the word would have been somewhat similar.

 

[Steppesister]

It's too bad your Puglio visit ended a little awkwardly. It was such a lovely place otherwise.

The pizza looks delicious.

I hope they smoothed things out. It'd be an uncomfortable few days for her if not.

OH, it was!!!

 

[summerlvr]

Congratulations on passing your exam! Are you still in Lexington? My daughter lives there and I love visiting. It's such a nice area.

 

[Steppesister]

Congratulations on passing your exam! Are you still in Lexington? My daughter lives there and I love visiting. It's such a nice area.

Thanks!! I am! I’ll be here until Dec 23; if you’re coming into town let me know! Lots to do here and it’s be fun to say hello.

 

[Steppesister]

Back I hope to replies!

 

[irene_dsc]

Congrats on passing your big exam!

And yes, it always is amazing to see the new/old together in Europe. Tho there weren't any modern windmills when I was there!

 

[Paulaparm]

Congratulations!!! You must be so relieved.
Enjoy your bit of time "off"

 

[Steppesister]

Congratulations!!! You must be so relieved.
Enjoy your bit of time "off"

Thank you so much, Paula! I have many things I want/need to get done during the next 7 weeks. Some school-related, but a lot of TR writing, too.

 

[Steppesister]

Congrats on passing your big exam!

And yes, it always is amazing to see the new/old together in Europe. Tho there weren't any modern windmills when I was there!

Hey Irene!

Thank you so much! Europe is such a fun place to see history for sure, and I hope they don't lose that Old World charm as they continue to modernize.

 

[KathyM2]

Congrats on passing the exam!! Maybe the marg just helped to relax you...should make it a pre-exam routine I think. That pizza looked and sounded delicious. Making me want pizza now.

 

[pkondz]

Fixed! That photo populated into Smugmug in a random place (not with the last batch uploaded) and forgot it.

Glad you did. I went back to look. Looks delicious!

Another thing I'll never know. We left before Shannon was up and we didn't get her contact information.

Like two sheep that pass in the night.

Good question! It sure hasn't in Kentucky.

Really? That's both surprising and a shame.

It super did and that's why it caught my attention. Pretty dang cool! Wish I could have gone exploring and gotten to it.

 

[missjackiemcg]

I'm so behind, but really enjoyed my catch-up reading this morning! BIG YAY for passing your exam. I'm so impressed, but not surprised!!!!

Leaving us hanging on that delicious looking pizza has made me SO hungry!!!

 

[Steppesister]

D is for: Divine Spaces with a Disappointing Dinner​

We didn’t really have a walking tour to follow for this day and took off with no particular goal in sight. By this time in the trip, I still did not have a functional SIM card to use for Google mapping, so the best we could do was load a destination and then hope the navigation wasn’t interrupted along the way. If it was, the map would disappear and we were suddenly lost with only our dim memory to get us back to our Airbnb's. (Cue the foreshadowing...)

(Side note- my dad HAD given me one but, as I'll explain later, there was an unpaid fee of some sort that blocked it from being used for data. It gets fixed later in the trip...)

Meanwhile, landmarks like this one became important beacons that helped lead us home:

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Leaving the front door, and for several street blocks, were stands of precepi set up in front of workshops. Yes, these are all handmade with original materials like clay, foam putty, sticks, moss, paint, you name it! These are NOT made in China or pre-fabbed which, to me, is next level. The doors to the shops were propped open so visitors could watch the craftsfolk designing and constructing in their shops with shelves full of materials to choose from. The more I saw, the more I became a bit sad that I didn’t know about this or have the means to take even a small one home.

The variety was astonishing! Every life situation imaginable was created, from various types of shops, churches, nativities, seaside fish docks, markets,… It would have been incredibly difficult to choose one to purchase even if I could have!

(Sorry for the crappy quality, it was dark when I took this one.)

​

All that aside, we struck out to see what we could before it got too late. Our wanderings led us here:

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“The monastery annexed to the church has been the home of prominent names in the history of religion and philosophy. It was the original seat of the University of Naples, where Thomas Aquinas, a former member of the Dominican community there, returned to teach theology in 1272.”- Wikipedia

Basically, any church in Italy is going to have a rich history and probably be more beautiful than words can describe. Many have art works dating back centuries and likely done by a notable name from the Renaissance. And, it seems, no church in Italy is without its requisite effigy:

(Venetian glass anyone?)

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This church was no different; although we didn’t know it at the time and didn’t spend a ton of time in there, it offered tours of the museum in the basement. Once again, it was a “had we known…”. However, what we did see was fantastic and memorable. The details in the stonework mosaics are always enjoyable for me, as well as the marble carvings and woodwork.

(Love how the stained glass reflections made everything colorful!)

(One of my favorites!)​

This particular church was clearly a gathering place as well for youth wanting to meet and visit. There were many 20-somethings sitting on the stone steps eating lunch, catching up, and enjoying the sunshine. Italy has so many wonderful outdoor “living rooms” perfect for serving the community.

​

After our little visit to the San Domenico Maggiore, we began just wandering in no particular direction. Eventually, it was dark and we came across this fountain that actually was on a list I’d made up of places I wanted to see. By happy accident this is one I could cross off. However, we found it super disappointing that more fountains that not weren’t running at all. Sure, the artwork is very nice, but it lost a fair amount of its magic without water being where it should have. I mean what’s a fountain with Neptune and sea creatures without the water?! This fountain is undeniably the most well-known in Naples and I am glad I could at least see it.

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By then, we were both REALLY hungry and, while there are many good restaurants all over Naples, we’d hit the wall, so to speak. We needed internet to load a map to get us home and there was a McDonalds very close. But we ended up with neither sustenance OR internet. Sad, dejected, and frustrated, we left and hoped something would turn up that we could agree on.


We should have stuck with McDonalds.


What we ended up with was an absolute disaster. Seriously, the meal was hands-down the most disappointing, pathetic meal on this whole trip. Just yuck.

As I said, we both just wanted something familiar, comfort-food so to speak. We wandered past café after café and after glancing at the menus, which are always posted outside, one seemed to have burgers and chicken sandwiches at reasonable prices.

It seemed to cater to university students as they advertised specials aimed at that demographic, so we sat down and tried to order. But the server didn’t speak very much English and somewhere along the way, the chicken sandwich that Anara tired to order ended up as this:

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The server had asked if Anara wanted “a salad” with it, but in the messy conversation she really was trying to ask for lettuce and tomato on the burger. When it arrived, the chicken was an extremely bland pan-fried piece of chicken breast, NO bread, and a big plate of shredded iceberg. Anara couldn’t hold it back any longer- she cried. I didn’t blame her.

I’d ordered a bowl of soup which was ok; nothing special at all, and I don’t even have a photo of it. I remember it had some beans and a bit of pasta. At that moment, we both longed for some terrible American fast-food.

We both ordered an Italian bitter cocktail. More bitter than we were perhaps.

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But the meal was not the worst part of the outing. Trying to get home was. We’d walked a long way and had no idea where we were. We aimlessly wandered and walked for what seemed like forever. Occasionally, we tried to stop people on the road and ask, but no one could help us find our way. It was getting cold, we were in unfamiliar territory, and we had an uneasy feeling about the area of town we were in. Honestly, I have no idea how we even ended up back into familiar places, but we found the neighborhood of precepi, and from there we eventually groped out way home.

(Our noisy alleyway)

(One of the more quiet sidestreets we passed on our way)​

We were both a bit grumpy, beyond tired, and had a hugely long day ahead of us in the morning. Every vacation is going to have some bumps in the road. I expect that; not everything will go as planned, even if planned perfectly. This was certainly a minor bump in the road, but tomorrow would be another day to try again.

If only our apartment had been a quiet one where we could get a great night’s sleep!

 

[Steppesister]

Congrats on passing the exam!! Maybe the marg just helped to relax you...should make it a pre-exam routine I think. That pizza looked and sounded delicious. Making me want pizza now.

Thank you so much, Kathy!! I think you are right! It was a nice dinner out, and actually did help me relax- my nerves up to that point were in shambles!

Mmmm, Naples pizza!