Steppes In Africa; One Letter at a Time- H is for: Hoping to Hop, Hop I Did!- A Visit to a Maasai Village (6/21)

[Steppesister]

That is interesting about Tanzaniz having to be heated. I like your rough cut ring more than the blue ones. It has more character.

I would have never thought of that either! I wonder how that was discovered?! And I agree, more of a different take, less known variation of the stone.

This painting is perfect. I love it.

It'll be nice to get it framed and hung up!

 

[pkondz]

Just keep swimming, just keep swimming....

Nope. You missed the pool. No swimming for you in Africa.

Bigger and more flavorful than what I'm used to here.

Really! Huh!

There were fewer opportunities where the prices were as good, the selection as extensive, or as conveniently located. There was at least one place I regret a little bit not at least looking.

Ah.
And...

It reminded me somewhat of a typical spiel in any cruise port anywhere else in the world. Except with a little bit more information.

And not as much "port".

VERY green. It was rainy season, and I'm sure that makes a big difference, but the landscape in Arusha was VERY different than further east where I was headed.

Can't wait to see more.

BINGO!!!! "Boma" In Swahili, "boma" primarily means an enclosure or fence, often made of thorny branches. It can also refer to an open space used for social gatherings, especially in a game reserve or safari lodge. Additionally, "boma" can be used more broadly to describe a homestead, a fortified village, or a government office.

So many interpretations!

I would imagine that SAFARI and tourism is easily well over 50% of the GDP.

And Tanzanite is the other 50.

Actually... got curious so looked it up. According to Google's AI:
About 1/3 agriculture, 1/3 industry (whatever that means) and 1/3 services. Guessing most of which is tourism services.

 

[zanzibar138]

With some tenacious hunting and very quiet stepping, I found them!

Mission accomplished, well done!

I knew for SURE I wanted a small piece of Tanzanite jewelry.

Ooh so pretty!

The prices for a cut and polished piece were a bit out of my price range but what did catch my eye was a piece of “rough cut” in a very simple setting of silver. It’s unique as most folks wouldn’t buy a piece unpolished or cut on its cleavage; now I have a piece straight from the ONLY source of it in the world- the Merelani Hills, only an hour and a half away from where I was standing.

Such a special piece.

When I do my “big trips” I have gotten into the little tradition of finding a painting that represents the local culture best in my eyes and a carved mask.

How do you have room for all these paintings and masks lol! They look great.

While I’ve flown (and flown on ) many small aircraft this would be my first time on a Cessna 208, and certainly my first “bush flight”.

Wow that is small - I would have been a little nervous!

Here's the taxi and takeoff from Arusha and a few shots from the air so you can see how the landscape morphs

Great shots!

I'd heard over and over that if you can at all help it do NOT miss a game drive. Every one is so different and you're almost guaranteed to see something new on each successive one.

Absolutely! I was pretty devastated to have missed the first 3 on my trip, but luckily we had 5 days there so still managed to catch most of them.

 

[Steppesister]

H is for: Hoping to Hop, Hop I Did!​

If this title intrigues you, I invite you as graciously and enthusiastically as my hosts throughout the day did.

Let’s, however, first back up a little to the beginning of my day. Before boarding my flight to Lake Manyara Airstrip, I was notified by my Concierge Team that the Lodge I was booked at had become inaccessible due to the heavy rains. The bridges leading to it were washed out and there’d be no stay at the Lake Manyara Lodge. Luckily, I wouldn’t have to worry one iota about how to completely re-arrange my obliterated itinerary. All of the ongoing plans would be taken care of, but as you’ll see, I would not know what they were until… well, let’s just say it was short notice. In one aspect, I was a bit saddened as I’d done so much research and was so excited to see the places I’d read about. There had been a one and only night game drive scheduled there, and that opportunity was now lost. On the other hand, it was nice to know I wouldn’t be the one to worry about re-arranging all the future flights, lodges, game drives, transfers, etc…. The logistics of an African Safari are no joke.

Instead, I would be next staying at what was originally planned for my 3rd accommodation- The Plantation Lodge in Karatu, Tanzania. Beyond that, I had no idea where I was headed next; it didn’t really matter to me. I knew I’d be taken care of, everything was going to be wonderful, and my itinerary would not be shorted in total length.

On arrival at the Lake Manyara Airstrip, I was enthusiastically greeted by Emanuel and Freddie. They would be my guides for the next 2 perfect days. Not really knowing what to expect, but incredibly anxious to get started on seeing more animals I asked if it was possible to do an afternoon game drive. They politely said no, because the next day would be a VERY long day on game drive and the Lodge was expecting us for lunch- albeit quite a late one. Instead, Emanuel suggested a visit to a Maasai Village and a stop at a local market- both of which were on my bucket list.

(Every truck has a fly swatter made from a cow's tail and loads of tasty snacks- plantain chips always)​

Let’s GO!

Passing through some typical Tanzanian semi-rural areas on the way, I was amazed by the wonderful mix of people and lifestyles- children heading to or from school, Maasai in traditional clothing, women in gorgeous flowing fabrics, some on bikes, others in tuk-tuks, motorcycles, or on foot.

(Lake Manyara District is the banana capitol of the country!)


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Each of my guides was careful to ask me fairly early on what I was most interested in seeing or doing during my safaris and I told each one that while “The Big Five” was definitely going to be a highlight, I was equally excited to find the lesser seen or known animals- reptiles especially, but also the smaller cats, as many birds as we could find, even the smallest of critters like dung or rhinoceros beetles. The animals must’ve sensed my wishes as not too far past Mto Wa Mbu village, Emanuel came to an abrupt stop exclaiming excitedly that my dream had come true already! Atop a termite mound, yes, almost exactly as built on the Disney Safari, was a Monitor- I am unsure of the exact species, but it is a: Nile Monitor (unlikely as it was smaller than most Niles get), a Rock Monitor, or a White-throated Monitor. It doesn’t really matter, it was a super cool sighting to add to my collection of memories.

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We also spied a Yellow-crowned Bishop a bit further on in a little marshy area. Another species to add to my quickly growing bird list!

(Still hoping my bird photos get better as the trip goes on)​

Small herds of animals quietly grazed and scattered villages dotted the landscape:

(A herd of donkeys)

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Not too much further on, we came to the small Maasai village of Lizer Emanyata where the little tribe gets regular visits from tourists. The guides will approach the Chief and then broker a price for an experience which typically includes some singing and dancing, a demonstration of fire making by hand, and a tour of the school. While, yes, most is quite choreographed, it is magical nonetheless. The price for my visit would be $50; $60 was given. It was what was easily accessible.

Upon entering the village, the Chief comes out to meet the car and gives permission to be there. It comes with a huge smile and a warm welcome! Others, mostly men are sitting in the shade, while animals graze quietly around the village perimeter. Somehow, silently communicated, it is made known to the others inside the village boma that guests have arrived and it’s time to sing and dance. I cannot know the hearts of people, but do wonder if they think to themselves, “Oy, it’s hot, I have work to do, and I really don’t want to perform right now.”.

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And yet, I was made to feel welcome. Women wear a solid, usually purple or royal blue wrap, and the men a plaid red, pink, or other brightly colored wrap. The women adorn with the traditional circular, beaded necklaces, large, beaded hats, and tons of dangling earrings. While the men may wear less, they do don bracelets or necklaces or occasionally earrings as well. Everything is so bright and colorful and painstakingly handmade. I was wrapped by the Chief himself with a blue piece of cloth and a necklace was placed over my head.

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Emanuel made sure to ask him about photographing, and not only was I given permission, but he also enthusiastically encouraged it. I did, to an absolute excess. #sorrynotsorry The Maasai people are fiercely proud of their culture and want to share it whenever they can.

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Meanwhile, a demonstration dance commenced. I was told that normally the style of dance performed was done during celebrations such as weddings or coming of age rites, but it is also done to showcase their culture for tourists. Here is more information from Google AI should you be interested:

“The Maasai people, particularly their young warriors (moran), perform the jumping dance, known as Adumu, during various ceremonial occasions. These include coming-of-age ceremonies (like Eunoto), weddings, religious rites, and other significant cultural events. The dance is a way for the moran to showcase their strength, agility, and vitality, and is also seen as a mating dance where they hope to impress women.

Here's a more detailed breakdown:

Eunoto Ceremony:

This is a major coming-of-age ceremony where young warriors transition to adulthood. The Adumu dance is a prominent part of this ceremony, with the highest jumpers gaining respect and attracting attention.

Weddings:

The jumping dance is also performed at weddings, signifying the importance of strength and vitality in building a family.

Other Ceremonial Occasions:

Adumu is performed at various other significant Maasai gatherings and celebrations.

Tourist Attractions:

While Adumu is a traditional dance, it's also performed for tourists at some lodges and cultural centers.

The dance itself involves warriors forming a circle and taking turns jumping, with the goal of jumping as high as possible while keeping their bodies straight and heels off the ground. The higher the jump, the more impressive the warrior is considered to be.”

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Continued in next post...

 

[Steppesister]

The women also joined in and the singing blew my mind. There is a strong male leader who seemed to direct with his voice and others joined in with choruses that harmonized beautifully. There was also a couple of men playing a pipe-like instruments. Traditionally, this would be the horn of a Greater Kudu, but today, it looked like a simple straight pipe. (Best seen in the video further down)

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Some video footage:

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I was then invited….hmm, no actually pulled, into the dancing and the women showed me, or tried to anyway, how to "pop" my necklace off the shoulders as part of their style of dance. I confess, I absolutely sucked at this and looked like a complete doofus. Especially the jumping bit. I am fat and old and can't jump worth a crap anymore. But that is not what matters. I was having the time of my life and was deeply humbled at their willingness to include me into their culture even if it was “old hat” to them. I do wonder if they know how deeply appreciative most tourists are at being allowed to have a small glimpse into their way of life.

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A long dancing video with a hilarious finish of the Chief agreeing I was terrible dancer!

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After the dancing, the Chief invited me into the actual village compound where maybe a dozen or so small stick and mud homes encircled the animal boma. I took the opportunity to take a few more photographs. The entrance had a large piece of brush beside it and I asked if that was for firewood and I was told "no, it is the door to keep wild animals out at night."

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The Chief then summoned a couple of the young warriors over to show me how they make a fire using just a few tools. It actually took a couple of them, including the Chief, to twirl the wood. Unfortunately just as a stream of smoke arose from the tinder, a puff of wind came through and tossed the wad of dried weeds away. Given that this was meant to be a somewhat brief visit, and the Plantation was expecting us for the late lunch, they didn’t attempt it again, which was totally fine. I saw the smoke and have zero doubt that this is a skill very practiced among the young warriors when out in the bush with their livestock. I did, however, comment that a fire is almost certainly a permanent fixture in the village at any given time so starting a fresh one by hand isn’t a common life-in-the-village thing. The Chief said that indeed is true.

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At this point, I thought the little tour might be done, but he was happy to answer all of my questions about life in the village, the animals, etc.. while he showed me the way to the school.

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When I entered the little, dirt-floored hut I found a perfect row of seated children under the warm, golden sunlight filtering in from above them. The thatch keeps them dry during even the hardest of E. African downpours. A blackboard was in front of the colorful group with one pupil standing proudly in front of them holding a long pointer. It was his duty to lead his classmates in a chant of the English alphabet and numbers. At one point, this little man switched out with one of his classmates to finish the recitation.

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The Teacher and Chief invited me to take photos with the kids and shake their hands. I was in complete Heaven. The children were absolutely charming and so excited to interact with me. However, I will also say, some had been sucking on lollipops and their hands were a total terrific sticky mess. I saw at least two picking their noses, and the grime was beyond comprehension. Sadly, there were some obvious skin infections as well. I was careful to use the hand sanitizer in the car as soon as I got in.

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A word on this level of poverty (in general): I have lived among the poorest of the poor for a fair amount of my life. They are 1,000% no less happy for it. In fact, I’d argue emphatically, that while things may take a LOT more time to get life done for the poor abroad, they are far happier than many, if not most, of their more affluent counterparts. Life is simpler, there is no keeping up with the Jones, they are for the most part content. I will also say, however, there are other, complex social issues within this community that definitely need addressing (like domestic abuse). <steps off soapbox>

From the little school-hut, the Chief then invited me into one of his 3 homes to show me what home life is like. I was deeply humbled by this gesture- I don’t know of too many other cultures who would let a perfect stranger into their home to share about the most intimate happenings.

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He invited me to sit on a ledge which was formed by a raised sleeping room, one of 3 inside each home. He explained that all Maasai homes are identical with 3 “sleeping rooms” and a small area in front of them for cooking and changing clothing. I was taken aback by how dark the home was with the thick covering of thatch and the only light source being from the doorway. The floor was dirt, the walls made with a mixture of cattle dung and mud, and the frame made of strong cut wooden poles- basically a yurt-style shape and covered with mud and dung instead of felt. They are meant to be semi-mobile as the Maasai are semi-nomadic moving to fresh grazing areas as needed. They do practice some gardening, but NOT to eat, only to sell. I’ll explain that in a future chapter….

(Critters in the house)

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Some of the facts that my host shared were that the Maasai are polygamous and he himself has 3 wives. He is proud of the fact that he takes good care of each one. He goes from home to home as he wishes. He shared that men watch the herds of goats, donkeys, and cattle and women make jewelry, watch the children, and cook.

At that point, the Chief led me towards the way out walking past the area that the women had set up for their little souvenir market. When we arrived, Emanuel had told me not to look at the jewelry without him or agree on any price for it. He warned that they often hike the prices way beyond what should be paid, so I was very nervous about stopping in at all. In hindsight, I wish I had. I guess I felt a little rushed at that point, knowing we still had one more stop to make at the Market and lunch was waiting. Added that it seemed to have been discouraged from the outset. I ended up getting the souvenirs I wanted but might have ended up with something I liked better (but am saving to show you until later).

He walked us to the car and then asked for more money “for the school fund”. I didn’t give more as I’d already paid $10 more than the agreed price and my money was packed away in my luggage in the very back of the truck and would have taken quite some effort for Emanuel or Freddie to get out. It seemed fair what I’d given so bid the Chief farewell waving as we went.

This chapter is quite long already so I will pick it up again with the visit to the Mto Wa Mbu Market next time.

 

[Steppesister]

Nope. You missed the pool. No swimming for you in Africa.

El Wrongo!!! Patience, my dear, patience.

And...

Hopefully this latest chapter answers that question for you.

And not as much "port".

Well, there’s that too!

Actually... got curious so looked it up. According to Google's AI:
About 1/3 agriculture, 1/3 industry (whatever that means) and 1/3 services. Guessing most of which is tourism services.

Super interesting stuff!

 

[Steppesister]

Mission accomplished, well done!

Was a fun find!

Such a special piece.

It’ll be worn with sweet memories.

How do you have room for all these paintings and masks lol! They look great.

Lol! I’ve not hung any up yet. Have wonderful ideas and no gumption to get a gallery going.

Wow that is small - I would have been a little nervous!

Super stable aircraft! Safe bet for short hoppers.

Absolutely! I was pretty devastated to have missed the first 3 on my trip, but luckily we had 5 days there so still managed to catch most of them.

And I’m sure you’ve still saw a ton!!!