Steppes In Africa; A Disney-inspired Safari-O is for: OH My, Opulent Tent Overlooking the Savannah! (8/3)

[Steppesister]

Now I’m all caught up here, too! At the risk of sounding like a broken record, your pictures and videos are stunning!
The Plantation looks like a 5 star luxury resort!
What a cool experience when you got to dance with them AND got it on video.

Why thank you!

And yes, that resort was so perfect in every way.

It was certainly a special way to begin my birthday. I loved every minute!

 

[buzzrelly]

A beautiful, bounteous spread was all laid out and I helped myself to some meats, cheeses, yogurt and granola and an ample serving of fresh fruit. Of course, bacon and eggs followed. YUM!

Looks delish!

but this group came in carrying a cake! They were there to help me celebrate my BIRTHDAY!!!

Oh my gosh, so sweet! You'll never forget that birthday!!

Enjoy my birthday song!

Super cute!

It started to sprinkle as we bounced along and the driver was quick to ask me how I was liking my African massage.

(Okay, see that splashing at the tail end of the the hippo. What they don't tell you at Disney is that hippos actually have a quite disgusting habit of marking their territory and dominance by flinging their poop with their tails as they doo-doo. This along with the "yawning" are actually signals of aggression and a warning shot to others getting too close.)

Ew! I guess it's effective though!

The 2 species of acacia trees made an exquisite backdrop for these magnificent creatures and taking time to watch them paid off huge. They ambled their way towards the jeep deciding to cross the road in front and in fact all around us;

Gorgeous! Love those giraffes!!

 

[Wood Nymph]

They were there to help me celebrate my BIRTHDAY!!! It was such a total, wonderful shock and I won’t lie, I was simply giddy with joy.

That was very nice of them. It looked like everyone enjoyed the celebration.

Okay, here’s a mystery antique for you to guess at: Let’s see how you do…

It looks like some sort of grinder or butter churn.

I was going from green and lush to the drier grasslands further East- the Serengeti National Park.

The rain was pretty heavy. Was this the rainy period for the Serengeti?

(Okay, see that splashing at the tail end of the the hippo.

I will never view the hippos in the same way again.

We crossed the river then parked at the water’s edge as the rain turned into a steady downpour.

The rain must have been a little disappointing.

We drove on and were within 10 or so minutes from camp when a large tower of giraffe came into view.

They are scary when they get close.

I can't wait to hear more about this part of your trip.

 

[missjackiemcg]

I also grabbed a photo of the 3 most popular beers in East Africa. I think at least one, according to @missjackiemcg , is available at the Dawa Bar (Dawa means “Medicine” in case you were wondering.)

Oooh, I'd love to be able to try those!! I know AK has Safari Ale--wonder if that's a US brew of the Lager shown there? Rob's other AK fav that I spotted in one of your previous posts is Tusker Ale--yummy!

hat they don't tell you at Disney is that hippos actually have a quite disgusting habit of marking their territory and dominance by flinging their poop with their tails as they doo-doo.

We do an animal project in Kindergarten, and one of my students proudly shared this fact with my class during his presentation! It was quite a hit with his classmates!

All of those rainy animal pictures are just so incredible! The wet giraffe fur was something I've never seen before. Such an OOH and AAH experience for me reading each update!

 

[pkondz]

I slept well after the very long day in The Crater

While visions of antelope danced in your head.

A beautiful, bounteous spread was all laid out and I helped myself to some meats, cheeses, yogurt and granola and an ample serving of fresh fruit.

Whoa that looks good.

this group came in carrying a cake! They were there to help me celebrate my BIRTHDAY!!!

No way!!

I won’t lie, I was simply giddy with joy. WOW, just wow!

I believe you!

Enjoy my birthday song!

Look at that smile.

And… I note the surprised look when they sang “How old are you?” That’s a common birthday song in French Canadian culture. I assume brought from France. Given the colonization of Africa, I’m not surprised to hear it.

And a sweet message from the Wilderness Guest Team:

Nice.

I was not even close to fluent, but learned a few phrases that made the locals smile when I pulled them out.

I find that people are always pleased when you make an effort to speak in their language.

Pied Wagtail

Like that one.

The flora was also quite intriguing around the Lodge- flowers I’d never seen or heard of before.

Me neither. Pretty!

Okay, here’s a mystery antique for you to guess at: Let’s see how you do…

Butter churn?

Dawa means “Medicine” in case you were wondering

Huh! I wasn’t, but… cool to know now.

Even the Main House's Restroom was gorgeous!

Very posh

Serengeti National Park

Heard of that! But never really knew where it was.

Most drives are not “drives from Point A to Point B"; they are exhilarating game drives with frequent stops to watch the animals that you will surely come across.

Even outside the parks?

I’m certain that is why the trip curators had me take a flight instead from Lake Manyara Airport to the Seronera Airstrip

“No animals for you!”

I had received an invoice for his services about an hour before he called me, but never heard anything since and figured since his services were too late, I wasn't expected to pay.

Breaking news from Tanzania:
“American tourist seeks aid from local doctor and skips out of town without paying.”

Whee!!!

Didn’t drop your phone this time.

wonder where the National Park starts...?

Totally not obvious.

Ready, Set, GO!

Apparently in Africa, one can just wander around and take any plane you want.

opportunities to see animals is always going to trump food

Silverbird

Silverbird…
It’s safari time in Tanzania.

we bounced along and the driver was quick to ask me how I was liking my African massage

What they don't tell you at Disney is that hippos actually have a quite disgusting habit of marking their territory and dominance by flinging their poop with their tails as they doo-doo

Meh. I do the same.

The unidentifiable hawk

Gosh. Looks like a Hawk.*

*How it got its name.

Coke’s Hartebeest

Mmmm… Coke

Wow!!!

Yes, it really was that close. I totally could have touched it should I'd been stupid enough to

breaking into light laugh, the driver said, “Oh no, that’s an A.L.T., an Animal Like Thing.

the staff of Lemala Tent Camp met us with umbrellas and warm menthol/eucalyptus facecloths to freshen up.

Very nice.

 

[disneyAndi14]

The lion lounging on the Savannah, you captured it!
Your trip sounds awesome so far and I’m glad as a single traveler it was nice having the concierge service.
The dinner looks lovely!

 

[Steppesister]

Oh my gosh, so sweet! You'll never forget that birthday!!

It was definitely a very special one!

Ew! I guess it's effective though!

The animal world can certainly be a gross and wild place!

 

[Steppesister]

That was very nice of them. It looked like everyone enjoyed the celebration.

It was definitely a really unique and fun little celebration!

It looks like some sort of grinder or butter churn.

You are close! It's small coffee roaster for using over the fire.

The rain was pretty heavy. Was this the rainy period for the Serengeti?

It, but during the tail end of it. Instead of all day, it mostly rained for a couple of hours in the late afternoons and was generally not a problem at all.

Tanzania experiences two rainy seasons: the "long rains" (Masika) from March to May and the "short rains" (Vuli) from late October to December. The long rains are characterized by heavier, more consistent rainfall, often in the afternoons, while the short rains are lighter and more sporadic.

I will never view the hippos in the same way again.

They are gross!

The rain must have been a little disappointing.

A bit, yes, but we still saw quite a bit and this was really just a short transit to camp and not meant as one of the main game drives. That's coming up next and boy did we see a LOT!

They are scary when they get close.

They are certainly very large, but never acted aggressive or scary. Kind of like gentle giants. They took a peek at us then just moved on.

 

[Steppesister]

Oooh, I'd love to be able to try those!! I know AK has Safari Ale--wonder if that's a US brew of the Lager shown there? Rob's other AK fav that I spotted in one of your previous posts is Tusker Ale--yummy!

Sometimes I REALLY wish I liked beer at all. It all tastes the same nasty bitter to me.

We do an animal project in Kindergarten, and one of my students proudly shared this fact with my class during his presentation! It was quite a hit with his classmates!

A little known and fun fact that's especially funny to kids and one that simply grosses adults out. To watch so many of them doing it in person was just crazy! Poop EVERYWHERE!

All of those rainy animal pictures are just so incredible! The wet giraffe fur was something I've never seen before. Such an OOH and AAH experience for me reading each update!

It was a treat to see the animals in a rainy situation that I think most folks don't get to as we generally run for cover. Seeing them from the dry safety of the truck with the colors reflecting on them differently was super neat!!

 

[Steppesister]

While visions of antelope danced in your head.

But were they Grant's or Thompsons?

No way!!

WAY!! Wasn't that amazing?!

Look at that smile.

And… I note the surprised look when they sang “How old are you?” That’s a common birthday song in French Canadian culture. I assume brought from France. Given the colonization of Africa, I’m not surprised to hear it.

It was totally new to me. Cute, catchy tune and super fun for my little birthday celebration!

I find that people are always pleased when you make an effort to speak in their language.

You are so right! A little can go a long way.

Butter churn?

Nope, a coffee roaster for using over a fire. Lots of coffee in those parts!

Heard of that! But never really knew where it was.

Now ya know! West of Lake Victoria, West of Kilimanjaro.

Even outside the parks?

No, not as much there. I meant mostly on the game drives in the parks where the most animals are.

Breaking news from Tanzania:
“American tourist seeks aid from local doctor and skips out of town without paying.”

Heh I think everyone involved knew no service had been rendered.

Apparently in Africa, one can just wander around and take any plane you want.

The security is a bit more laxed for sure. No printed boarding passes. just little wooded cards you get then hand as they walk you out. You check that your own baggage is actually ON the plane too. Like you literally walk around to the small cargo hold and check.

Meh. I do the same.

Gosh. Looks like a Hawk.*

*How it got its name.

LOL!! Just as good a guess as any!

Wow!!!

The colors were absolutely amazing with the sun and rain!

 

[Steppesister]

The lion lounging on the Savannah, you captured it!
Your trip sounds awesome so far and I’m glad as a single traveler it was nice having the concierge service.
The dinner looks lovely!

I did, but just wait!! That was just a teaser.

I'd not do it any other way actually if I do I again.

 

[pkondz]

But were they Grant's or Thompsons?

Ill Grant you that they were probably Thompsons

WAY!! Wasn't that amazing?!

Nope, a coffee roaster for using over a fire. Lots of coffee in those parts!

Should’ve known, given your love of coffee.

Heh I think everyone involved knew no service had been rendered.

Nope. I was just there yesterday and saw your face on a most wanted poster.

No printed boarding passes. just little wooded cards you get then hand as they walk you out. You check that your own baggage is actually ON the plane too. Like you literally walk around to the small cargo hold and check.

 

[Steppesister]

O is for: OH My, Opulent Tent Overlooking the Savannah!
​

Just as the rain slowed to a drizzle the jeep pulled into my new tent camp- Lemala Tented Camp. The driver pulled in close and as I ended the last chapter, I was given a nice, warm towel to freshen up with and then taken under umbrella cover to the Main-Common Tent.

The staff was incredibly welcoming and offered me a welcome juice and soon Maurice, the Camp Manager, was introducing me to my Cabin Steward, the Head Server, and the Bartender. Once the introductions were made, he gave me a 15-minute orientation to the camp including safety rules, the general schedule of the camp and, a survey of where things were. He emphasized that he was at my disposal any time of day or night for questions or needs. The only hard and fast, non-negotiable rule was that I was NEVER to be un-escorted after dusk anywhere in camp- a designated Maasai Warrior was to be with me at all times after dusk.

Lunch was on the late side as I chose the extended, more leisurely-ride-to-camp option. I think we arrived right about 2:30 as my first photo at Camp was of lunch at 3:05.

Potty break before being seated for lunch:

Even the tiny tented common bathroom is so pretty!

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Lunch was absolutely perfect. How could it not be with a view like this?!

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After many days of heavy food, and way too much of it, I was served a very tasty chicken salad with corn, tomatoes, lettuce, and an excellent, light dressing. Truly, it was just right as I knew dinner would likely be another large and filling extravaganza. A homemade breadstick was served with every meal; I think I remember one of the servers say it was “their signature bread” at this camp. I never touched it. I chose water with almost every lunch saving my wine and Sundowner cocktails for evening.

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With lunch taken care of, I was then shown to my tent by my assigned Cabin Steward. I wish I had written his name down; he was so wonderfully attentive. I did have a small bit of laundry done which he made sure was picked up from the basket the next morning, the fresh water by the sink was always full, and my shower was hot and ready for me as I’d requested right after lunch. Even though I was headed right back out in the truck, I was feeling a bit grimy from the water spray earlier and wanted to change and get cleaned up earlier rather than later after dinner.

Something that was going to be quite different when I arrived at Lemala was that instead of being the only guest, I was now one of several. When I arrived, I didn’t know that yet, but would soon…

But first, let me make your mouth water with these photos of my tent!!! Seriously, just look at this space!!!

The view from the front flap:

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Bathroom vanity:

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Bathroom:

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Close-up of sink area:

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It is just so gorgeous and luxurious for being literally “in the middle of nowhere”! Every possible amenity was available to me, including robes and slippers, a safe (not that I ever felt like I needed it), hot running water (this was not an “African talking shower” and I’ll explain that later), drinking water, super nice shower products, laundry service, everything!

Shower:

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And a word on safety; every tent camp will have a little set up like this:

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Should you feel like animals are getting too close for comfort during the night, you can use the radio to call a warrior/guard. If you are REALLY nervous and something is actually entering your tent, you can use the airhorn (although I don't see one here). There is always bug spray and sunscreen available and there is always a flashlight in case the generators aren’t working.

What I don’t have a photo of but sure wish I did was the covered “porch” with super comfy chairs and loveseat facing the most unbelievable view! I can say without a doubt that morning coffee on it was rather blissful.

The best I did with the porch:

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Bed:

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With my things relatively organized and feeling so much better after my warm shower, it was time to meet up with my official guide for my stay at Lemala- Hassan. Guides will almost always bend over backwards to accommodate the goals and priorities of each guest customizing game drives as they go but be ready to make suggestions as well. If a guest wants to do an all-day game-drive as opposed to a split day- they will make sure a lovely lunch is packed. If a guest wants a pre-dawn start, breakfast is arranged for eating in the field. I was eager to have more game drive time for sure and one that included a sunset was beyond anything I could have dreamed about.

Our afternoon/sunset game drive was to set out at 4:30. And that’s when I met my companions who’d be with me on game drives for the next couple of days-Dave and Victoria. (No photo of them, sorry!) Dave is a pilot with United and Victoria is a Flight Attendant with Southwest.

Now… I had gotten pretty spoiled the last few days with private game drives and guides all to myself. I won’t lie, it was fantastic to be the main determiner of when to leave and what to focus on while out. I was really wanting to spot as many birds as possible and search for the lesser known, smaller mammals and reptiles that most folks aren’t really interested in. I think the vast majority of safari-tourists want to hit the Big 5 for the wow-factor. Sure, lions and elephants are definitely pretty cool, but it 1,000% takes more work and a LOT more luck to come across the snakes, lizards and small cats. Now, I’d be sharing a truck with others and I knew very well that it was going to change the dynamic of the game drives and interaction with the guide.

But it ended up being absolutely wonderful! Dave and Victoria were so much fun and added the element of sharing some jokes and some incredibly surreal animal interactions. Our day and a half together on the plains of the Serengeti were amazing as you will soon see…

We all loaded into our open-air truck which had been freshened up with hot and cold drinks, warm blankets, snacks, and Hassan- the best guide of the trip. Don’t get me wrong, the others were all fantastic as well, but his personality was so gracious and professional and he really went the extra mile to show us things that others might not have made the effort to.

Continued in next post...

 

[Steppesister]

And off we went for a 3-hour tour, a 3-hou.... eh, hmm....

The first animal we spotted was a Chanting Goshawk high up in an acacia tree surveilling his territory:

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The next sighting we came across was a lone Secretary Bird who was just as obstinate as every other one I’d seen, refusing to put up his head feathers. What is with these silly birds?! Will I ever get to see one in full head-feather display….?

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Remember the photos of the Coke’s Hartebeest and my thinking that’d be my only sighting? Well, they had chosen to stick around camp during lunch and on the second expedition out that afternoon I was given the chance to see them even closer! Just look at this magnificent beast! There were 3 of them grouped together, but this one seemed the most photogenic and he posed so nicely.

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As we came around the side of the hill that camp was situated behind, a herd of elephants grazed lazily on the freshly watered grasses. These were not the only elephants out and about that afternoon, and one herd in particular would give us thrills to last a lifetime…

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As if the animals weren’t enough, Mother Nature herself put on a most exquisite show. The African Savannah is definitely a very beautiful place.

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Maybe this Tawny Eagle was admiring the scenery laid out before us just as much as we were.

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A few other larger bird species poked around for tasty tidbits after the afternoon’s rains including a MUCH better Hamerkop sighting and this Black-bellied Bustard:

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Suddenly, Hammas stopped the truck and told us to look out the front window of the truck. Dead ahead was a most perfect Black-backed Jackal who seemed absolutely unbothered by us watching him.

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Eventually, he got himself back into the tall grasses to lie in wait for whatever unsuspecting prey would come his way. I put this photo in to show you how amazingly well these animals can hide which also serves to show you how many animals are out there that one would never, ever see on a game drive. And that’s where the expertise of a great guide can make all the difference. They know how and where to find them and can also read their behavior and anticipate what they might do next. You’ll see this come into play in a HUGE way in my next chapter. This day would be full of surprises before it’s over!

View attachment 990061


****** Warning: Total Lion Photo Overload Ahead!! ******​

Before long we came across a very large pride of lioness with a skad of cubs. The little ones tumbled and played atop their mamas while taking turns nursing and jostling for attention.

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We sat there very quietly for quite a long time just enjoying their antics and observing their very cat-like behavior. Cats, no matter the size, all do very cat-like stuff.

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A few garnered the altogether wrong kind of attention from mommy.

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And then mommy got tired of being climbed on:

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This is a perfect place to leave off as the next bit includes a bit of something I will never, ever in my life forget. A jaw-dropping episode of raw animal behavior that you’ll definitely want to stick around for…

Until next time, Asante Sana, Marafiki Zangu!