Rhine River Cruise Report 8/1 to 8/8

Steven G

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Jun 7, 2016
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I just wanted to do a quick report on the Rhine River Cruise we were on from 8/1/2024 to 8/8/2024.

The cruise itself was wonderful, and the ABD guides were wonderful and so were the crew and staff.
Everything was definitely wonderful... except the following:

1) The only real complaint I had was that if you didn't want to do the excursions, you either had to plan your own day, or stay on the ship. If you stay on the ship, there are limited to no activities.

As far as the overall trip, the airplane travel parts in both directions had really awful experiences for us:

1) On the way there, we had a stopover in Heathrow. We were delayed by about an hour already, but the pilots reduced that to only about 35-40 minutes. The problem was that I had a 2 hour layover, which was now 1.5 hours. Which you would think would be enough time, however, once we landed, Heathrow was "busy", so we were stuck on the runways for around 15 minutes, and then instead of giving us a normal gate, we were deplaned at a remote location and had to be bussed to the airport, which was another 15 minutes (it could have been even longer had we not pushed our way to the front as much as we could, since there were multiple buses that were loaded one at a time). Thus we now had about an hour. Then we had to deal with the normal Heathrow security and customs stuff, when there was a hellishly long security line. We asked nicely to be able to skip the line, and were able to find the security person who was willing to do so for us, saving us at least 20 minutes. At this point, we then had to navigate the maze of heathrow, and find the gate, which turned out to be bussing you AGAIN to a remote terminal. However, the signs were indicating the flight was closing, so we had to run to the gate (keep in mind, that at least for us, this was in the middle of the night in terms of time). We were the second to the last group allowed to board the plane, so all those times I was able to push through paid off, and we got on the flight. However...

2) Now the luggage didn't make it on the flight. so in Basel, we found that out, and had to fill out some forms and they would deliver it to us at the hotel (we luckily did a pre-night hotel.) The guides greeted us and we made it to the hotel. The forms indicated like 4-5 phone numbers to try to reach them if you want status, or you can look online. However, the online website never updated (and it still says it will be delivered), and none of the phone #'s worked (I had the hotel front desk try all of them, none of them worked). So I am of course freaking out that the luggage won't make it. I told the hotel front desk that they could reach me at anytime to let me know the luggage is here. At 11:55pm, the luggage arrived, but they didn't call me (the shift changed, and he didn't get the memo I guess). I wake up around 2:30am and go down just in the hope that it was delivered and got the luggage.

So at this point, I believe Heathrow is the worst airport (I had previous not so great experiences there).

However....

3) We departed from Amsterdam Airport. This was possibly one of the worst experiences I ever had at an airport. I splurged for first class on the way home. At the airport, there was no first class checkin (that I could see, maybe I just missed it). There was just so much confusion and different lines. You first had to go to a kiosk, and indicate how many bags you want to check in. Then you had to go to my NEMESIS, the self checkin baggage collector horror show. First you had to wait in line for the privledge to use this monstrosity. Then once you got there, they show you 3 ways to put your baggage in, but none of them really correspond to a normal luggage. Turns out, the images shown DON'T actually correspond to how you are supposed to put the bag in the machine. The softside luggage with spinner wheels we had, instead of putting them on the wheels like you would think (and one of the images sort of show), you have to put it on it's side, or the monstrosity won't be able to scan the luggage tag they have you put on. I put the luggage tag on the top, like I do at EVERY OTHER AIRPORT, and that was wrong. At this point, you are screwed for that piece of luggage. You are not supposed to take the tag off, so you have to have that piece of luggage manually checked in. I flagged down a helper, and he was able to get my second bag checked in correctly through the monstrosity, and told me approximately where to go to get my first piece checked in.

4) At this point, I go to where he approximately pointed, and I couldn't figure out what new line to stand in. I tried a couple places that were wrong, then I found the right place. Here I waited, and I got the luggage checked in (I possibly, and am not sure, but I might have skipped part of the line, it was so confusing, so I felt bad about that, but at that point I was beyond frustrated).

5) Then you have to get to the rest of the process. I was in a specific terminal, and the signs for that terminal were all blocked off, and the only way to proceed was to go where the signs tell you not to go (i.e. I had to go to Gates G9, but the signs were indicating that you were going to gates A-D, for example) . So I ask, because I am not going to go around in circles at this point, and they indicate that all the signs are wrong, because they had to close off part of the airport for unspecified reasons (I got the feeling it was for staffing reasons, but am not sure). So I am following signs that are wrong (others around are saying the same thing). Eventually, we get to security and customs. Customs was quick, and they said that priority (remember I was supposed to be in first class) was only available for security. I didn't see the sign for priority for security until I was about half way through the security line, so oh well. Security wasn't so bad, so I wasn't too upset about that. Then, because we were routed to the wrong area to begin with (because it was closed off), we had to walk extra far to where we were supposed to go.

The combination of the self check in monstrosities plus the signs that were incorrect made me feel like Amsterdam was the worst airport I have ever experienced. I can't believe anyone would think that having these monstrosities is any better or saves on staffing that just doing things with humans accepting your luggage and putting it on the belt. (Please note that I have had worse experiences at airports, due to bad weather, etc., but those are really out of the airport and airlines control, but I feel that what is happening at Amsterdam is caused by them, because they wanted to experiment with the latest robot scanning luggage tag technology. I hope for the sanity of everyone that this experiment fails).

I used to have high opinions of European airports in the past (except for Heathrow), now, not so much.

First class was nice, I must admit once I got on the plane. I do wish I was able to decipher how to make it easier for myself at the airport (unless they just don't have a first class check in).

6) The final thing was more just an observation at how stupid the TSA is. We arrive at Philadelphia from Amsterdam. We have to go through customs and security. Even though it's a connecting flight to my final stop, we had to collect our luggage in Philadelphia, walk a short distance, and then hand that same luggage to someone else who then does nothing with it (or even ask you any questions) other than putting it on a belt. They claim it's for security reasons, but when you look into more details, most of the reasons have to do with smuggling or crime, not with actual security, which is nice, but I don't think it's worth the extra hassle for everyone. Since the only times that the luggage is even checked is if the customer is flagged in some way, I really don't see the point. There are lots of reports of people missing their connections because of this needless step. Luckily we had enough time, so this wasn't a problem, just an annoying step. Otherwise it was relatively painless (other than the long walks we had to do to get to our connecting flight).

As far as the river cruise itself, if you have any questions, let me know.


Here is a video of how it's supposed to work. It's too bad that they don't provide enough instructions during the actual process, plus it's a complete madhouse in real life.
 
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I hear you on those stupid baggage things in the Amsterdam airport. Very maddening... (Close second was the very long passport control line coming into the EU at Amsterdam before our connecting flight to Basel. And third - the VAT refund line and the riot act that the agent read me about the earrings that I bought.)

Curious as to what day you didn't want to do the planned activity on the cruise? (We went last year.)

And yes, I can understand that for ocean cruise passengers, there is usually things to do when you stay on the boat. Less so on a river cruise.
 
One of my rules in life is to never make a connection at Heathrow.

I had no problems at Amsterdam Schipol but that was several years ago, when they didn't have self service baggage machines. Thanks for the warning.
 
Sorry your travels were so harried. Heathrow is awful. After DH's luggage got lost there, we all bought airtags so at least someone would know where the luggage was. We generally just fly carry one, but sometimes you need to check a bag.

As for coming back to the states, that "wait for your luggage then give it to the guy" thing is standard procedure for any entry point I've landed at. Another reason I like carry on only.

River cruising is a different beast from ocean cruising. Small ship means little to do on board, and since docking times and places are fluid, it's hard to pre-plan any DIY tours other than just going out exploring by yourself.

What did you like about the cruise itself?
 

Sorry I didn't respond to the questions, I still have a little jet lag.

here are some answers:

We didn't go on the excursion on day 3 (france day). It wasn't that we didn't want to go on the excursion (we had booked the canal boat tour), it was that my son was not feeling well that morning (I think it was part jet lag, and we had a lot of walking in Europa park the previous day due to rain, I will explain below). He felt better by afternoon, so we did the Macaron making thing on the boat (one of the few things on the boat). The rest of the trip we always went on excursions (we were pretty much by ourselves on the boat other than the crew in the morning on day 3.)

As far as the "wait for the luggage then give it to a guy", I believe I have not experienced that before, but I don't go international that often, and I believe at least recently I have managed to get either a direct flight home or not having a connection in the US, so I haven't had that happen to me, so that was new for me. I am not sure how long they have been doing it (presumably since 9/11?)

We did manage to do the Anne Frank house in Amsterdam ourselves (similar to booking ADR for a DL or WDW trip, I had to get up during the night to make sure I got the ticket). So that meant I also missed one other excursion (the amnsterdam canal cruise, which means I strangely enough missed both boat canal tours). Anne Frank house was perhaps my favorite thing, I found it well worth the trouble.

Other than that, what did I like? I liked the food on board a lot, I felt that the main restaurant was better than the regular dinner onboard an ocean cruise. And the Chef's Table 7 course dinner (only for 1 night), was by far better than anything on any ocean cruise or any other restaurant that I have tried (I am not normally a foodie, so I don't have too many things to compare the 7 course dinner to).

As I said previously, I felt the ABD guides were awesome.

Finally, out of all the cities I did prefer Amsterdam (other than the airport experience). Europa park was great too, and it would be something I'd be interested to try again (we didn't get near enough time there to get on everything we wanted to, and it was raining on and off)

The other highlight was Siegfried's musical cabinet museum. It was amazing. My parents actually bought one of the birds in a cage like 40 years ago, and I still have it and it still works today just about the same as it did 40 years ago. They got it in Switzerland, but I believe it's all made at least today at Siegfried's if it's original.

I liked Heidelberg castle, but it was not a highlight because it wasn't something you could actually visit inside (since it was in ruins). It was kind of a letdown.

I liked the Van Gogh museum, however I felt we didn't have enough time there, the guide wasn't able to show us all floors and had to wrap it up quicker than I think she wanted to). For us, it was right after Anne Frank House, so it was two things in a row that were kind of depressing and inspiring at the same time.

As far as Europa park, we did have one bad experience there, after a wonderful day. We were basically let loose to explore the parks ourselves (which makes sense). At the end of the day, I got to the front of the park with 30 minutes left. I made the decision to take the train around the park (really more like a monorail). It started out nice, but we got to about halfway through, and it started drizzling (I didn't actually notice it was drizzling since I was enjoying looking at the park, but...) Suddenly, a notice went out in multiple languages that we would need to leave the monorail at the next stop due to weather (it had rained pretty hard about 3 hours earlier for at least 30 minutes ). The stop that they forced us to leave was in Spain area. This is about as far as you can be in the park from the main entrance, so we had to hoof it back with only 17 minutes left to meet the group. We got there about 3 minutes late, but of course the guides were waiting for us, so it was fine once I found them. The annoying thing is that it was drizzling and maybe slightly raining for about 5 minutes of that walk/jog, and then it stopped raining for the rest of the walk, so they really didn't need to force us off (I suppose it's better that it wasn't raining if we had to do the walk however)...

It's possible/likely that is what made my son tired the next day and not wanting to do another excursion on day 3.
 
We had time after the tour at the Van Gogh museum to walk through the entire museum. (At higher art museums, we have a family game - we all have to pick our favorite piece and share it later.) Also -spent a good amount of time in the museum shop after too.

We did 4 extra nights in Amsterdam, so did the Anne Frank house on our own, after the end of the cruise. (But I did the same thing you did to get the tickets.)

I think that it is difficult for any ABD (river cruise or land-based) to plan any OOO time, without potentially missing out on the planned tour activities. (One of my friends did a tour with a company that I don't remember, but they had very full days, and then like one completely open day, instead of smaller breaks that alot of the ABDs have. Full days where you could plan what you wanted to do - seems like a great idea. But don't see ABD moving to that. So, instead, we just get there early and stay late and do more on our own at the starting and finishing cities.)
 
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There were 5.

Clement, Hugo, Amanda, Jana, and Gina.

Clement and Hugo were from France. The rest lived in Florida.

I never travelled with any of them.


As far as Van Gogh, we didn’t have the option to explore the museum, or even visit the shop which surprised me. After the group tour, we were brought to the bus.
 
I'm glad you enjoyed the trip! Just looking at the itinerary, it looks like you visit some great places. Amsterdam especially is one of my favorite cities. I agree the Anne Frank house is well worth the trouble of getting tickets and lining up. It's also a great city for food, since the Netherland's connection to Indonesia seems to inspire more creative restaurants. They also seemed to serve a lot of Argentinian beef.

I definitely avoid Heathrow at all costs. Everything about that airport makes it prime for flight disruptions, customs and baggage issues, and uncomfortable waiting areas. Amsterdam is much better for connections, since you never need to walk that far between gates, and both the Schengen and non-Schengen terminals are both nice with lots of places to eat and hang out during a layover. Watching the video though, the diagrams right on the side of the drop-off are misleading. I default to putting luggage on its side, but I can see where that causes a lot of trouble. And I think your grabbing the luggage just to give it to another guy in Philly is normal for going through US customs. They want you to carry it through customs, rather than have the airlines do it. It's probably an outdated law from back before electronic scanners existed.

Are there any places you see visiting again, or even doing the same cruise again?
 
I would like to revisit Europa park, and Amsterdam. I don't forsee taking the cruise again (or any other river cruise), I just don't think river cruises are for me.

Europa park is really interesting, they actually have "copies" of rides like Haunted Mansion, Pirates, Space Mountain, It's a Small world, Soarin and others. They are NOT direct copies of course, but they start with the Disney version as an idea, and usually build from there. The animatronics are not necessarily as good, but I find it very creative what you end up with.

For example, the Haunted Mansion "clone" started with a stretching room, and some additional similar scenes, but then went more with some jump scares. Pirates of the Caribbean "clone" had the boat ride with a drop, but then seemed to go through different times and locations of pirates (in many ways even better than Disney).

They also had a pretty impressive Ice Skating Show based on the life of Tesla that we attended.

The queues as well were creative. They obviously have less money to work with, but they really put their hearts into it, you can tell.
 
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