Day 5: Eurostar to Paris and the Eiffel Tower
Let's talk for a minute about the Eurostar as I haven't seen it mentioned much on this forum.
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It is of course the high speed rail line that goes under the English Channel through the chunnel and on to Paris, Amsterdam and maybe a couple other places from London. There are also routes between other cities on the mainland Europe side. For us we were heading to Paris. They have trains from the morning through to the evening every hour or two, so lots of options.
We booked our tickets direct through their website the day they went on sale about 6 months in advance. I'm not sure if that is the best strategy from a price perspective but I wanted to make sure we got them for the time we wanted. We selected a 9:30 train which is one of the more popular and pricey times but we wanted to maximize our time in Paris without getting up too crazy early and being super tired. If you want to find the best price being flexible and watching is probably the best strategy but the morning they opened up I saw the price go up a bit while I was watching and just pulled the trigger.
There are three classes of service. We booked the mid tier called plus because I had read the extra space and amenities were worth it given the generally relatively small price increase. Additionally I believe you have to book plus tier to select your seats. I wanted the family sitting together so it was worth it.
However about a month out I noticed our seats had all changed and they had spread my kids into different train cars than my wife and I and we were all over the train. I called (the do have a US number) and they explained there had been a train equipment change and there was nothing they could do. I could ask the train manager and he could potentially get people to switch when we boarded. They told me their computer doesn't keep families together when this happens. I thought that was kind of a crazy answer given we paid extra to pick our seats and booked opening day. We weren't just split up a little we were in different cars. So I sent an email as well to their official complaint department explaining the situation and asking if there was anything that could be done. It seemed the front line customer service agents just didn't have any authority to do anything.
It only took a day or two and I got an email response they couldn't do anything either because the train was full in plus tier. However they could upgrade us to the premiere class which did have seating available together for our family and they would be willing to do that. They'd just have to cancel and reissue our tickets. I wasn't expecting that but was totally open to it. So that's how we ended up in premiere class.
That morning we awoke and walked from our hotel directly into the train station and down to the premiere class dedicated entrance. That is the first big perk with this highest class of service, a dedicated entry line. Going on the Eurostar across the channel means you go through immigration before you board so you don't have to worry about it when you arrive. I had read lines can get backed up but the regular line didn't look bad this morning and the premiere line wasn't particularly smooth so I'm not sure how great that perk is. Maybe better some days than others.
After clearing security and immigration the next perk is they have a dedicated lounge for premiere class passengers. That perk would be nice if you were waiting. The main waiting area was pretty chaotic. They had light snacks, pastries in the morning, juice, soda and other drinks available. We only had a few minutes though in the lounge before they called our train. At that point you have to merge into the mob heading up to the platform. It was fine though and soon we were onboard.
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The plus and the premiere classes share the same type of cars and seating. The seats were nice and comfortable. They have single seats on one side and two across on the other. Not all the seats are around a table but we had one for two and then the rest of the family was actually behind us around a table for 4 people (2 on each side). There were luggage racks on either side of the train and we had no problems fitting our 3 suitcases. We had to unnest one suitcase at this point to hold our treasures collected in London. There were overhead bins that worked for our backpacks.
The next big perk for premiere class was the food. We got full multi course meals.
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This was my option, an omelette like thing, tomato, beans, sausage and mushrooms. Kind of a full English breakfast. There was also a muesli cereal type thing and croissant course. Some of my kids opted for a fresh fruit course instead of the hot option. The food was all okay but nothing great. They did also offer us various drink options.
The ride is only about 2:30 hours. The scenery for me provided plenty of entertainment though I also brought a book. Unfortunately I tried reading and was distracted as we entered the chunnel. It happened rather quickly and I missed taking a photo of the entrance. I just suddenly realized it was dark out and we were in a very long tunnel. So kind of anticlimactic but still cool to say I've been through it.
They do have TV screens that display trivia facts and show your speed.
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Traveling over 180 mph by train was really a cool experience. It was very smooth and comfortable. It did make taking photos of the scenery a bit difficult. You spend a little time in the English countryside after leaving London and quite a bit on the French side before getting into Paris.
Overall I highly recommend traveling on the Eurostar. It was a great introduction to high speed rail in Europe! I don't think the premiere class of service is worth the additional price difference I've generally seen. In the future I'd be just fine with the plus class if I needed to pick seats or even the standard class would be fine. It was really cool to experience it though.
In Paris you arrive into the Gare du Nord train station. Because you've already been through immigration you just walk off the train into the station. We were staying just outside the Gare du Lyon train station because that is where the train to Barcelona leaves from. So we had to make our way to the RER which is a Paris commuter train service to head to Gare du Lyon. You probably could take a metro too but it is just one stop on the RER. It wasn't too bad to navigate and find our way. Its a big train station but signage was pretty good.
My sister had been to Paris a couple months early and I asked her if she'd grab some Paris transit cards for my family so we'd be set and wouldn't have to find a machine. I had read that standing at the machines is a common area for pickpockets. I don't know that it would have been a big deal but it was nice to just head for the RER. One note about Paris transit they do have a phone app now. I actually just used my phone to pay but we didn't want to do that with the kids phones. You can recharge the transit cards though from a phone. So while my sister just bought one trip on the cards, I was able to add fares directly to the cards from my phone which was super convenient.
The RER was easy to navigate and very quickly we were at Gare du Lyon which is also a large train station. There is a lot of walking through these train stations in Europe and I was glad we went with backpacks and only a couple suitcases. It definitely made it easier.
Our hotel in Paris was the Marriott Courtyard Gare du Lyon. I booked 2 family rooms on points. Each had a king and a pull out sofa bed. The hotel is in a fairly tall building you can see from the train station which made walking there quite easy. The hotel is nice and modern and we really liked it. The staff was super friendly and helpful as well. They tolerated and helped me practice my French. I had completed a French one course from Pimsleur before the trip. It is always much easier to study a language than use it in the real world but I did okay. My biggest problem is I kept wanting to slip into Spanish which I speak fluently. Crazy enough one of the desk clerks was from Mexico so that worked with her. They all of course also spoke great English but I love learning languages. Anyhow our rooms weren't ready but they agreed to store our luggage so we could head out and explore.
My kids indicated before the trip they really wanted to go up in the Eiffel Tower. Tickets in the summer are hard to come by. I rope dropped when they opened for our date 60 days out. I managed to snag tickets for an elevator ride to the second floor at 4pm. My kids weren't concerned about going to the top, they just wanted to go up in it. They also offer tickets if you are willing to walk up the stairs to the second level but they don't open until 14 days out.
We didn't have a ton of time at this point before our tickets. However I knew there was a bakery with good reviews around the corner from our hotel. We stopped by on our way. My teenage son said he wasn't hungry but the second we walked in he told me to forget it, he was super hungry. I'll share more about this bakery later but suffice it to say everyone decided they needed to try their first French sandwich or pastry as a snack.
One of the tips I got before the trip from a
YouTube video from the Frenchies I think is the name was not to take the normal metro station for the Eiffel Tower which is Bir-Hakeim. They said it isn't a super nice station and doesn't give the best Eiffel Tower reveal. So we took the metro to Ecole Militaire instead and walked up to the back lawn. It gives you an awesome reveal and a ton of photo ops.
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We had time to take a bunch of fun photos. It was a bit hot, there was a possibility of rain but none so far. I did run to a little stand there to grab a water bottle and ran into my first place I needed Euros instead of a card. I did have some but call it out while London was totally cashless in our experience, Paris was not.
It was something to actually be at this landmark I'd seen in photos and on TV for years but now I was there live. Most of us see photos of the Eiffel Tower from a distance. It wasn't until I was there up close I realized how big it is. I don't think this photo really captures it either but its the best I have.
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You do have to go through security to get into the plaza under the tower. In the end we were a bit early. The tickets tell you to allow time for security checks but they went quick. We wandered and looked in some gift shops and around to kill time before getting in the line for our time slot. You go through another check before getting into the elevator to head up. The elevators remind me of the ones in the St Louis arch. They are almost more like a funicular than an elevator as they go up at an angle.
The views from the second deck are pretty incredible. We walked around each side taking photos. This was one of my favorites.
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I can only imagine what it would be like to go all the way to the top. The tickets are a lot more expensive and harder to get. I don't think it is necessary to enjoy the experience. I could post a lot more photos but with the 10 photo limit I'm going to move on. They do have some gift shops, some snack bars in addition to the really expensive restaurants.
We elected to take the stairs down to avoid the elevator line. It was fun I thought. They have a bunch of signs talking about the Paris firefighters and their relationship to the tower. After taking the stairs down we were glad we didn't have the tickets that required we take them up, there were a lot of them. It would have been good exercise but it was pretty hot out.
I really wasn't sure how long we'd spend at the tower so I hadn't really planned anything else for the day. My thought was we'd just walk over to the Champs de Elysee. So that's what we did but it was a pretty long walk. Definitely interesting things to see on the way. The biggest Dad fail was assuming my family would want to see this great fashion avenue in Paris. The did want to shop but not at the sort of shops there. They were looking for more touristy shops which we found some but that isn't the main focus of the area.
The good news was I had found on Google Maps a highly rated local hamburger place right in the area. Everyone was getting hungry for dinner so I suggested that. Maybe hamburgers seem like the wrong choice for Paris but we didn't want anything fancy and it had really good reviews.
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Let me tell you it was really, really good. Probably the best burger and fries I've had in a very long time.
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Everyone loved their food, we didn't have to wait to be seated and it was casual with super friendly staff. I can't recommend The Kitchen enough if you are in Paris. Turns out my sister had eaten here on her trip as well and loved it.
After dinner we headed back to the hotel to actually check into our rooms. As usual I didn't take room photos but they were very similar to Courtyard rooms in a big city in the US. Not huge but nice and comfortable.
My younger daughter wanted to head out and check out shops in the area so my wife and I took her shopping nearby. Shopping wasn't great in the immediate area but I also stopped by the bakery again for dessert. I really didn't need more food but I wasn't going to pass up another chance to try a French pastry. Who knows when we'd be back.
We ended the night with a "kiss goodnight" to use the Disney term from the Eiffel Tower. One of our rooms had a view and we got to see it light up.
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Up next: A rainy morning at Notre Dame