Only 24 Hours From Tulsa - Bartlesville, Woolaroc and Trula at the Mayo

[UKDEB]

Index to all instalments

Wednesday, 28th July

We’re away from the house by 11am, heading for Sonic where an early lunch is in order as we have a dinner reservation at one of Tulsa’s landmark hotels this evening. We make good use of Sally’s gift card.

Bacon Cheeseburger

Bacon Cheeseburger Toaster

Tater Tots

Cherry Limeade

​

We drive north on the I-75 to Bartlesville. Our first stop here is Frank Lloyd Wright’s only skyscraper, the Price Tower, built as the Headquarters for the H.C. Price pipelining company in 1956. Wright took his inspiration for the cantilevered design from a tree. Today it houses an arts centre, a hotel and a restaurant.

A tour of the gallery and top three floors is starting in 45 minutes, but the receptionist tells us we’ll need to allocate plenty of time to take in all there is to see at Woolaroc, the primary attraction on today’s itinerary. Instead, we drive the couple of blocks to the home of legendary oilman, Frank Phillips, co-founder of the Phillips Petroleum Company. In common with so many others around these parts, his is a fascinating rags to riches story.

Frank Phillips was born near Scotia, Greeley County, Nebraska, on November 28, 1873. His birthplace was a primitive log cabin on the sparsely settled frontier where educational opportunities were limited to the traditional one room country school house. When Frank was a year old his parents moved to a farm near Creston, Iowa, where he spent most of his early youth. There, as a boy, he learned the value of hard work. He earned his first wages digging potatoes for a neighbouring farmer at ten cents a day.

Frank Phillips was always determined to do big things. He began to display ability as a businessman and financier at the early age of 14 while working as a barber in Creston. Before many months passed he owned every barbershop in town. His interest, however, soon turned to financial matters. It was in 1903, while working as a bond salesman that he heard about the new oil field which had just been discovered at Bartlesville, Indian Territory. Moving to the new oil town Frank went into business for himself using his savings to organise the Citizens Bank and Trust Company. He soon found that the banking business extended into oil operations and began to acquire a few oil leases. His oil interests grew until in 1917 he and his brother, L.E. Phillips, incorporated Phillips Petroleum Company.

Frank Phillips, known as "Uncle Frank" by employees and friends, contributed large sums to the Boy Scouts of America and other youth programs. He also organized The Frank Phillips Foundation which sponsors, among other activities, a program of higher education for children of Phillips Petroleum Company employees. Among his many appointments, honorary memberships and honorary degrees, he was most proud of his admittance to the Oklahoma Hall of Fame in 1939, the French Government decoration of Chevalier of the Legion of Honor in 1928, and the Silver Buffalo for Distinguished Service of Boyhood, the highest award presented by the Boy Scouts of America. In 1949, he was awarded the distinguished service citation by the University of Oklahoma.

In the early days of his career he drilled many wells on Osage Indian lands. As a tribute to his fair dealings and interest in their welfare, the Osage adopted Frank Phillips into the tribe and made him a chief. He was given the Indian name, "Wah-Shah-She (Osage) Hluah-Ke-He-Kah (Eagle Chief)" — "Uncle Frank" was the only white man ever to attain this high honour.

Frank Phillips died on August 23, 1950. Mrs Phillips, affectionately known as "Aunt Jane," preceded him in death by over two years, about eighteen months after their Fiftieth Wedding Anniversary. Mr Phillips will be long remembered for his great personal achievements and his unselfish interest in the welfare of people.

The house here in town was the Phillips family’s main residence; Woolaroc, where we’re headed next, their rustic, yet equally charming weekend getaway in the Osage Hills. Built in 1908, the original 26 room Neo-Classical mansion has been remodeled twice. It underwent extensive interior redecoration the last time in 1930. Thereafter, neither the Phillips nor their granddaughter who donated the home to the Oklahoma Historical Society in 1973, made significant changes to the interior. Thus, with few exceptions, the furniture, decorations and even personal effects are original.

We’re greeted by a charismatic docent who tells us that the next tour is not due to start until 2pm. During the planning stages, we hadn’t picked up on the fact that tours are available and so are really only here for the photo opportunity. However, he has a real twinkle in his eye and Susan appears to take a shine to him (cue: endless ribbing from Matt), so it’s with some reluctance that we acknowledge we can’t afford the wait.

Here’s a short video outlining a little of what we missed.

<object width="512" height="323">
<param name="movie" value="http://www.oklavision.tv/embedded/bn_videoplayer_okv.swf"/>
<param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"/>
<param name="allowScriptAccess" value="always"/>
<param name="FlashVars" value="videoInfo=http://www.oklavision.tv/svc/videodetails?videoid=21701"/>
<embed type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="512" height="323" src="http://www.oklavision.tv/embedded/bn_videoplayer_okv.swf" flashvars="videoInfo=http://www.oklavision.tv/svc/videodetails?videoid=21701"/>
</object>​

 

[UKDEB]

We travel the twelve miles (ten on the highway and two beyond the gates) to the lodge and museum at Woolaroc (“woods”, “lakes”, “rocks”). Once inside, the two-mile drive takes us through the 3,700 acre wildlife preserve, home to more than 30 varieties of native and exotic animals and birds. This is a working ranch that maintains the animals in a natural, protected setting. Frank Phillips created the preserve in 1925 to retain the essence of the West as he had known it before the turn of the century, working with several wild animal experts to obtain a wide variety of animals from around the world. Great care was taken to provide the right care and environment for the animal collection. The prominent species are the American Bison (buffalo), elk (wapiti) and longhorn cattle. Other species include the Japanese Sika deer, North European fallow deer, water buffalo, llamas, aoudads, ostriches, Sardinian donkeys and pigmy goats.

​

We start by ambling around the museum grounds before touring the museum itself which presents one of America's most unique displays of Western art and artifacts; Native American pottery, baskets, beads, blankets and cultural art; historical displays along with one of the most complete collections of Colt firearms. The collection includes a broad representation of paintings by many of the "Old Masters" of western art, including more of the Remingtons and Russells we saw at Gilcrease yesterday, as well as the works of more contemporary artists. Much of the collection was personally acquired by Frank Phillips during his lifetime and has since been greatly enhanced by donations from other members of the Phillips family.

Crow Indian Dance Machine video

<object type="application/x-shockwave-flash" width="400" height="225" data="http://www.flickr.com/apps/video/stewart.swf?v=71377" classid="clsid27CDB6E-AE6D-11cf-96B8-444553540000"> <param name="flashvars" value="intl_lang=en-us&photo_secret=75032423ae&photo_id=5252446537"></param> <param name="movie" value="http://www.flickr.com/apps/video/stewart.swf?v=71377"></param> <param name="bgcolor" value="#000000"></param> <param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><embed type="application/x-shockwave-flash" src="http://www.flickr.com/apps/video/stewart.swf?v=71377" bgcolor="#000000" allowfullscreen="true" flashvars="intl_lang=en-us&photo_secret=75032423ae&photo_id=5252446537" height="225" width="400"></embed></object>​

 

[UKDEB]

Next we walk across to the lodge. From its humble beginnings as a small cabin, the ranch house became the country retreat of Frank and Jane Phillips, with eight bedrooms - six guest rooms and two separate, connecting rooms for Frank and Jane, each with its own bathroom. There was even a servant's room with its own bathroom connecting to Frank’s room. The walls of the Great Room are covered with mounted heads from the ranch’s animal collection, but they’re not hunting trophies. As and when the animals died from natural causes, the mounted heads and horns were used as decorations. There are 97 heads and 107 sets of horns.

It was here at Woolaroc that the Phillips would entertain: around 250,000 guests - from powerful politicians, businessmen, Hollywood celebrities, foreign diplomats and everyone in between - are said to have enjoyed generous hospitality, lavish parties and wilder goings-on. There were fabulous games of chance around the lodge’s large poker table where little things like railroads and circuses sometimes changed hands. Then there was the time that Blackstone the Magician caused the Queen of Spades to adhere to the log wall when Frank threw the whole deck against it. The card remains there today. It was the place where every element of the local culture could gather and feel welcome. As a result, Frank's cattle were never rustled and his bank was never robbed. He got all of the oil leases he needed and he obtained almost all of the financing he needed for the business. “Get a man to Woolaroc,” he said, “and I’ll get him to sign any contract”. Compared with the grand mansion in town, it’s quite modest, but still exudes luxury and style. Walking around, it’s easy to imagine being a part of the colourful oil boom era, where the rules were still being written and avarice was a laudable trait.

We mosey on back in the direction of the museum and climb the observation tower before wandering inside the Welcome Center where we find a theatre running a film about Frank Phillips, the Lodge and the Museum, on a continuous loop. We catch the second half and wait momentarily for the re-run before learning it’s the last showing of the day.

We leave feeling we have witnessed something special here. In the words of Will Rogers, “If there is one last under-discovered treasure left in the United States, it surely must be a place called Woolaroc.”

 

[UKDEB]

In no mood to rush, we take the scenic route back to Tulsa. Back at home, we discover that EB’s right eye is very bloodshot. I’d spotted something this morning, but we’d convinced ourselves it was a trick of the light. It’s deteriorated in our absence and there’s now no mistaking that something’s wrong. EB’s made it through some pretty serious health problems recently, including dangerously high blood pressure, so Susan wastes no time in calling the vet. While she’s talking on the phone, there’s a knock at the door. I answer it to find her neighbours, Michelle and her two delightful daughters, Clarice and Gwen, on the doorstep. They’re just back from their Vegas trip having missed their connecting flight from Phoenix yesterday because husband Doug’s watch had stopped! We don’t have time to chat as EB needs to make an emergency trip to the vet’s surgery, but we promise to catch up with them soon. Matt drives Susan and EB to the clinic, leaving me to take a shower. It’s 6pm when they leave and by the time they return at 7.45pm, I’m nicely refreshed and rested. Matt and Susan assure me that they’re not too exhausted to abandon our dinner plans, but Susan phones the restaurant to bump our reservation time by half an hour. (EB’s blood pressure is well within normal parameters and the vet has prescribed eye drops.)

Our destination this evening is Trula at the recently renovated Mayo Hotel in Downtown Tulsa. Opened in 1925, the Mayo quickly became a popular gathering place for Tulsa high society, playing host to notable guests throughout the 20th century, including President John F. Kennedy, Bob Hope, Charles Lindbergh, Babe Ruth, Charlie Chaplin, Clark Gable, Elvis Presley and Mae West. The hotel was even home to famous oilman J. Paul Getty. Although listed in the National Register of Historic Places, it was abandoned for 20 years after a failed renovation attempt in the early 80s. The Snyder family purchased the building for $250,000 in 2001 and set about restoring it to its former glory at a cost of $40 million. The restaurant is named for a local socialite, Trula Austin, who lived in the original hotel for about 25 years.

We’re able to park right outside Trula which has its own entrance onto the street, but choose to walk around to front of the hotel and enter via the magnificent lobby.

The little bar attached to Trula is buzzing, but the restaurant itself is very quiet.

For appetizers (or “small plates” as charactarised by the menu), we choose Pan Roasted Diver Scallops with Hominy Macque Shou (Susan), Sautéed Shrimp with Rosemary-beer Butter Sauce, over White Cheddar Grits (Matt) and Mac ‘n’ Cheese with Country Ham and Sharp Cheddar (me). It’s a mistake on my part as it’s anything but a small plate and, thus, very off-putting as a starter. I suffer a familiar pang of food envy as I survey the offerings presented to the others.

Entrees are Spring Vegetable Étouffée with Caramalised Onion Corn Bread (Susan), 10oz New York Strip, Vidalia onions, Blue cheese and French Fries (Matt) and, as my first choice of Crispy Pork Belly is off, the 8oz Filet Mignon with Bacon and Bone Marrow and a Potato Leek Lasagna (me). We choose a bottle of Frog’s Leap Chardonnay to accompany it all.

For dessert, we share the Ice Box Lemon Cake (which is like Key Lime Pie and is actually described on the check as such!) and a Chocolate and Peanut Butter Souffle which turns out to be a frozen dessert. Our server, Michael, is friendly and attentive, but also spots those moments when we’re deep in conversation and lets us be. Susan tells him that I love peanut butter and he says that I must try his Peanut Butter and Chocolate Martini. I must! I must! Not only is it delicious; it’s complimentary.

We round off a very leisurely, enjoyable dinner with coffee. Michael tells us that we should take a look at the museum on the mezzanine and the Crystal Ballroom on the 16th Floor, so we do precisely that. We arrive home shortly after 11.30pm and fall straight into bed.

 

[SusanEllen]

Note to Debbie's readers: Debbie graciously offered me the opportunity to remove the photo of Matt and me seated at Trula because I look like I'd just tasted something sour. But it is a good picture of Matt and one that shows a bit of the restaurant and is one of the rare photos in which I actually have my eyes open, so I'm going to leave it. Just throw a scarf over my half of the screen!

Another well written report of another well lived day, Debbie. Thank you.

 

[tony64]

Lovely day Debs.

did you happen to get the recipe for the chocolate and peanut butter martini?

I know Theresa would love to give that one a try.

 

[TotallyAngelic]

This is all absolutely amazing .. the places you have visited are stunning, and there is so much to see in that part of the USA.

 

[Kevin Stringer]

I like the look of both Woolaroc and Trula. Was it strange eating in a very quiet restaurant?

Kev

 

[irongirlof12]

isn't susan the most amazing hostess to you what amazing things to see and learn about.great phot's as usual. hope EB is okay.

 

[SusanEllen]

EB is doing well now. Thank you for asking. Because of the episode Debbie described he did lose sight in that blood filled eye, a condition his vets thought would be permanent. But counter to what the doctors thought and against the odds, he regained his sight.

Thanks for your kind words, but honestly, I wasn't so much a hostess as a co-conspirator and tag-along on Debbie and Matt's Excellent Adventure.

 

[Pugsly]

Quick Deb - copyright those Sonic pics, lest they nick them off of you for their advertisements! (great! now I'm craving a cherry limeade!)

Sounds like another educational, yet adventurous day. Well done!

 

[Chilly]

Really beautiful photos Deb